Blueberry Lovers Rejoice!

If you love blueberries, then consider planting them in containers! Planting blueberries in the Treasure Valley requires some special care and TLC for your blueberry crop to be plentiful and successful. The soil here is very alkaline with an average pH between 7.2-8.2. Blueberries grow best in an acidic soil with a pH of 4.5-5.2, so a soil amendment is our answer to raising a successful blueberry crop.

Spartan Blueberry bushes (Vaccinium corymbosum), is a Northern Highbush variety. It is known for its attractive color, tasty fruit and blueberries that are often larger than a quarter. The plants grow 4-6ft tall and are 4-5ft wide. The ideal planting time is early spring or late autumn.

Planting blueberries in 5-gallon buckets with 5-6 drain holes in the bottom is one way to grow them. Use an azalea/camellia potting mix with a 4:1 ratio of micro bark to potting soil. Place the blueberries into the soil at the same depth as they were planted at the nursery. Blueberries like full sun with some afternoon protection in very hot areas. Top-dress the plants with 2-3 inches of mulch to conserve water loss and keep the plants cool in the heat of summer. Water plants immediately after transplanting. Blueberries do not tolerate drought or standing water. Irrigate often and from the bottom if possible. If you're watering with sprinklers, water in the morning to allow plants to dry before nightfall. This helps to prevent leaf and fruit disease. You can fertilize your plants 2-3 weeks after planting. Ammonium sulfate (21% N) is popular for blueberries because it adds nitrogen to the soil and helps acidify it. Apply fertilizer evenly around the entire bush. 

Blueberries have shallow roots and container pots provide poor insulation to the roots. To prevent damage to the root zone bury the plants during the cold months (November through February). Your blueberries will do fine in the buckets for the first 2 years and then transplant them into a larger container at least 24 inches deep and 24 to 30 inches wide. It will be 5 years before your blueberries will produce their maximum harvest.

Enjoy your blueberries!

Growing Raspberries in Southwest Idaho

One of the many things I love about living in Southwest Idaho is that we have a wonderful climate for growing raspberries. Did you know that raspberries come in 2 types? You can choose to plant either summer bearing (floricane), or fall bearing (primocane) plants in your garden. Summer- bearing raspberries produce one crop of fruit in early to midsummer. Fall-bearing raspberries produce two crops, one in mid-summer and another in late summer or early fall. They also come in 4 colors: red, yellow, black and purple. Whichever type and color you choose to grow, you can have success with proper planting, care and pruning of your bramble.

Raspberries grow best in sandy loam, well-draining soil. Planting in soil with standing water or poor drainage can cause root rot to take hold. Plant in an area that receives at least 6 hours of full sun per day. Before planting, make sure your chosen site is free of perennial weeds. A clean bed makes for happy, healthy plants! Plant your berries as soon as the ground becomes workable in the spring. Fertilize your plants in the spring as well using a fertilizer low in chlorides. A “complete” fertilizer containing phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium and sometimes other plant nutrients is a good choice. This is a great publication on fertilizing raspberries.

Proper watering and yearly pruning are needed for the best possible harvest.  To ensure a good berry size, raspberries require consistent irrigation from bloom through harvest. Avoid overwatering your plants. Raspberries cannot tolerate wet soil as they are susceptible to root rot. Watering the soil at the base of the plant is the best method as overhead sprinklers can cause fruit and cane disease. Pruning done properly improves light and air movement and removes dead, weak and damaged canes.  It reduces disease problems and pests that affect the quality of your berries.  Summer-bearing and fall-bearing raspberry types are pruned differently -- prune your summer-bearing raspberries twice each year, once in late fall to early spring and once after the summer harvest.  Fall-bearing raspberries need to be pruned in late fall. 

The University of Idaho has some great videos on pruning on their University of Idaho College of Agriculture andLife Sciences YouTube channel. They are worth checking out. With a little knowledge, you are ready to dig in and grow some raspberries. The sweet rewards are definitely worth the work!

Don’t Let Crabgrass Make You Crabby!

Crabgrass is a nuisance! It is a group of weedy grasses in North America - Digitaria sanguinatis (large or hairy crabgrass) and Digitaria ischaemum (small or smooth crabgrass). It likes lawns that are under watered, under fertilized and badly drained or in other words, a “neglected lawn”. Even a well-cared-for lawn will have an occasional visit especially during difficult weather conditions and drought.

Crabgrass was introduced into the United States in 1849 by the U.S. Patent Office as a potential forage crop. It is good in dry and hot areas for summer forage, but we don't want it in our lawns.

More information found here.

Smooth crabgrass

Large crabgrass in a lawn

Smooth crabgrass seedling

As an annual, crabgrass germinates, sets seed, and dies within one year. There is no need for fall expenses to get rid of it. Winter will do it for you.

Even when you mow it closely, crabgrass can still seed and will hurt your lawns vitality. A single plant can produce 150,000 seeds and the can remain viable for three years in the soil. 

DO NOT LET IT GO TO SEED.

Flowering stem of smooth crabgrass

There is no biological control to get rid of crabgrass other than livestock, however there are complete treatments you can buy and apply to get rid of crabgrass:

- Preventive treatments

- Organic sprays and treatments

- Selective chemical herbicides

- Non-selective herbicides

Or you can establish practices for maintaining a healthy lawn that naturally discourage crabgrass from thriving:

1)  Planting the right turf grass species (shade, traffic, sun).

2)  Watering correctly (full coverage and depth for good rooting for your variety of grass).

3)  Proper fertilization (periodic application during growing season for your grass variety).

4)  Regular dethatching and/or core aeration every couple of years.

5)  Mowing the proper height for your grass variety and season.

How about here in the Treasure Valley?

For problem lawns in the Treasure Valley, start with applying per-emergent when temperatures in soil reach 50-55 degrees F for at least 4-5 straight days mid-March/April.  Mow proper lawn height for your grass. Apply per label instructions, water in and have no rain for 24 hours. Use a broom and not a blower to remove from concrete. You especially want crabgrass protection between the grass and concrete. Wait a least two days to mow after application to keep from lifting any residue. Apply again in 3 months / 90 days.

For small infections, crabgrass can be removed by hand, the younger the easier. Water area and pull at base of plant gently to remove. Do not put weeds in your compost pile.

For bigger problems, check the following website or your local cooperative extension office for help.