Edible Native Landscaping - “Paleo” in Your Own Backyard

Curating your home landscape or garden connects you with a tradition thousands of years old in which humans and plants share a special relationship. Native Shoshone people living nomadic lifestyles began expanding into the area now designated as Idaho as early as 4,000 years ago, and the principle diets of these hunter-gatherers included many edible plants, not to mention the many practical and symbolic uses of plant material. For thousands of years (until contact with Westerners), the indigenous peoples lived off a diet sourced by wild (unfarmed) plants. These wild native plants are still around today, and are ecologically adapted to the Idaho climate and its diverse plant hardiness zones.

Here is a sampling of plants gathered by Shoshone Native Americans for sustenance:

• 

  Arrowleaf Balsamroot

  Camas Bulb (Camassia quamash)
• Wild Onion
• Bitterroot
• Arrowleaf Balsamroot
• Tobacco Root
• Serviceberry
• Chokecherries

• 

  Bitterroot

  Currant
• Pine nuts
• Seeds from Junegrass, Bluebunch Wheatgrass, Thickspike Wheatgrass, and Nevada Bluegrass

Berries were ground and mixed along with hunted meats to form nutritional patties, called pemmican, which were preserved chemically by the acidic berries. Additionally, native tribes in Idaho such as the Nimi’ipuu (Nez Perce) collected:

• 

  Kouse

  Wild Carrot
• Kouse (also called “Biscuit Root” by non-native travelers)
• Sunflowers
• Huckleberries
• Wild Rhubarb

The list could continue, and the above links will give more information about each type of plant. But which ones would grow well in your garden? A good place to start collecting some tips is at the Idaho Native Plant Society resource website. Specifically, the publication Landscaping with Native Plants of the Intermountain Region from the BLM which contains detailed notes and descriptions of nearly all of the edible plants from the above list. The guides include landscape uses and notes, regional considerations, availability, and pollinator attractiveness. Additionally, the two guides specify which of the plants are drought tolerant, how large they grow, how much water and sunlight they need, when they flower, and what color they bloom. 

If there aren’t already enough reasons to focus your landscaping efforts on native plants, the fact that these selected plants have been used in antiquity up to the present because of their important nutritional value to humans gives one more benefit to carefully designing your landscape with location-appropriate plants. The provided references will get you started, and remember also to keep learning along with archeologists and ethnobotanists about how people and plants have survived by cooperating for thousands of years. 

Growing Raspberries in Southwest Idaho

Southwest Idaho provides an exceptional climate for cultivating raspberries, making it an excellent region for growing these delectable fruits. The area's climate, characterized by warm summers and well-draining soils, is particularly well-suited to raspberry cultivation. Raspberries can be divided into two primary categories: summer-bearing (floricane) and fall-bearing (primocane). Summer-bearing varieties produce one bountiful crop in early to midsummer, while fall-bearing varieties offer two harvests—one in mid-summer and another in late summer or early fall. Additionally, raspberries come in four distinct colors: red, yellow, black, and purple, each bringing unique flavors and aesthetic appeal to your garden.

For optimal growth, raspberries thrive in sandy loam with excellent drainage. Avoid planting in areas prone to standing water or poor drainage, as these conditions can lead to root rot. A location that enjoys at least 6 hours of full sun each day is ideal for robust plant development. To ensure a successful start, prepare the planting site by removing any perennial weeds that could compete with the raspberries for nutrients. Plant raspberries as soon as the ground is workable in spring, and use a low-chloride fertilizer to promote healthy growth. A balanced “complete” fertilizer containing phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, and possibly other essential nutrients is highly recommended. For detailed information on fertilizing raspberries, refer to this excellent publication.

Consistent watering and proper annual pruning are key to a successful raspberry harvest. Maintain regular irrigation from the bloom stage through harvest to achieve the best berry size, but be cautious of overwatering. Raspberries are particularly sensitive to excessive moisture and can develop root rot in overly wet conditions. Watering directly at the base of the plants is preferable to using overhead sprinklers, which can increase the risk of fruit and cane diseases. Effective pruning enhances light and air circulation around the plants, helps remove dead or weak canes, and minimizes disease and pest issues.

Summer-bearing raspberries should be pruned twice a year: once in late fall to early spring and again following the summer harvest. Fall-bearing raspberries should be pruned in late fall after the final harvest. For comprehensive pruning techniques, the University of Idaho’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences YouTube channel offers valuable instructional videos.

With the right care and attention, cultivating raspberries can be a deeply rewarding experience. By adhering to these practices, you can look forward to a plentiful and satisfying harvest, bringing the joy of homegrown raspberries to your table.

If You Can't Beat 'Em, Eat 'Em - Purslane

Weeds are the bane of every gardener, but did you know that many are edible and very healthy? The common weed known as Purslane (Portaluca oleracea) is one of those. It is pretty much guaranteed that this plant is somewhere in your landscape and it is a power plant in more ways than one.

Purslane is an opportunistic plant and grows in nearly every country in the world. It has been cultivated for over 4000 years both for food and for its medicinal qualities. It is easily identified by its prostrate habit and succulent-like leaves that resemble those of a miniature Jade plant; about fingernail sized. The stems are reddish and radiate from a central point. The side stems can also root, so there may be several radians in the same plant. The taste is described as slightly tart, salty, and similar to spinach or watercress. Believe it or not, it has been found to have more beneficial nutrients than most vegetables! It is described as a "superfood" and one of the most nutritious foods on the planet.

There are some great ways to use this superfood in your kitchen. The leaves and stems are edible and can be prepared in many ways, both raw and cooked. But remember, as with all vegetables you eat, ensure that the product is clean and free from pesticides or herbicides. Give this “weed” a place on your table at least once and try it. Remember, if you can’t beat ‘em, eat ‘em! Especially when they are so good for you! While an internet search will yield many recipes, following are a couple I have prepared and enjoyed.

Purslane Salad With Grilled Corn and Avocado Dressing (Click here for recipe)

Verdolaga - Purslane Cooked Greens (Click here for recipe)

Meet the Mason Bees

Once you know the mason bees, you may want to invite them to your slice of earth to help counter the negative effects of declining honeybee colonies. Encouraging mason bees could be an important step in ensuring that some of our fresh foods continue to be available and affordable. Orchardists and home gardeners can raise them.

Mason Bees (also known as Orchard Bees) are exceptional pollinators. Pollen collects on their bellies rather than on their hind legs. Masons work with mud to build and seal their nests in naturally occurring gaps such as between cracks in stones or other small dark cavities. They also readily accept premade nests of hollow tubes or bee houses placed by the small gardener. Only use nesting materials that allow you to open, inspect, and harvest cocoons. Visual inspections can greatly reduce predator populations. Watch out for a new predator, the Houdini Fly.

Each female bee tends to its own brood. The first brood cells that the bee makes (those that are furthest back) will develop into female bees, while the ones closer to the entrance of the nest will become males. Scientists believe that bees do this for one of two reasons: males need to emerge first. They gorge themselves with food while they wait for new females to hatch, they mate, and then they die. Females are much more important to the reproduction of a species. Putting the males as a barrier increases the survival and fitness of the species. 

The favorite food for their brood includes anything that flowers in spring and some nectar. They generally travel only short distances from their nesting site for nectar sources (around 200 to 300 feet is normal). Females collect this food, bring it to their nests and knead it into a ball, mixing it with nectar and their saliva. When the food store is big enough, they lay an egg on top of this mass and seal-off the chamber or cell with mud. Then they go to work on the next cell. The larvae grow and by the end of summer, metamorphose into pupae and later into adults, which remain safe and sound inside the nest until the next spring. They begin emerging when temperatures reach 50 to 55 degrees. 

Mason Bees are pollinators that are worth some time and effort. Attract them to your garden, provide them a place to nest, and keep them coming back.

Edible Native Plant Landscaping - The Real “Paleo” Diet Available in Your Own Backyard

Blue Camas Lily

Curating your home landscape or garden connects you with a tradition thousands of years old in which humans and plants share a special relationship. Native Shoshone people living nomadic lifestyles began expanding into the area now designated as Idaho as early as 4,000 years ago, and the principle diets of these hunter-gatherers included many edible plants, not to mention the many practical and symbolic uses of plant material. For thousands of years (until contact with Westerners), the indigenous peoples lived off a diet sourced by wild (unfarmed) plants. These wild native plants are still around today, and are ecologically adapted to the Idaho climate and its diverse plant hardiness zones.

Here is a sampling of plants gathered by Shoshone Native Americans for sustenance:

• 

  Arrowleaf Balsamroot

  Camas Bulb (Camassia quamash)
• Wild Onion
• Bitterroot
• Arrowleaf Balsamroot
• Tobacco Root
• Serviceberry
• Chokecherries

• 

  Bitterroot

  Currant
• Pine nuts
• Seeds from Junegrass, Bluebunch Wheatgrass, Thickspike Wheatgrass, and Nevada Bluegrass

Berries were ground and mixed along with hunted meats to form nutritional patties, called pemmican, which were preserved chemically by the acidic berries. Additionally, native tribes in Idaho such as the Nimi’ipuu (Nez Perce) collected:

• 

  Kouse

  Wild Carrot
• Kouse (also called “Biscuit Root” by non-native travelers)
• Sunflowers
• Huckleberries
• Wild Rhubarb

The list could continue, and the above links will give more information about each type of plant. But which ones would grow well in your garden? A good place to start collecting some tips is at the Idaho Native Plant Society resource website. Specifically, the bulletin Landscaping with Native Plants from the University of Idaho and the Landscaping with Native Plants of the Intermountain Region from the BLM contain detailed notes and descriptions of nearly all of the edible plants from the above list. The guides include landscape uses and notes, regional considerations, availability, and pollinator attractiveness. Additionally, the two guides specify which of the plants are drought tolerant, how large they grow, how much water and sunlight they need, when they flower, and what color they bloom. 

If there aren’t already enough reasons to focus your landscaping efforts on native plants, the fact that these selected plants have been used in antiquity up to the present because of their important nutritional value to humans gives one more benefit to carefully designing your landscape with location-appropriate plants. The provided references will get you started, and remember also to keep learning along with archeologists and ethnobotanists about how people and plants have survived by cooperating for thousands of years. 

Drip Irrigation for Flower & Vegetable Gardens

PVC drip system 

Have you ever wondered if there was a better way to water your plants and use less water, especially during the hot days of summer? Maybe you just want to leave town in the summer and not return to your basket of petunias looking like a basket wilted lettuce. A drip irrigation system might be the solution to your problems. 

As a user of drip irrigation for over 20 years, I can attest to the benefits. By putting water directly next to the plant, you water only the plant and not the soil around it. This means fewer weed seeds can germinate, which means fewer weeds! A drip system can also save you time, while giving you better results in the garden. Studies in drip irrigation conducted by the University of Utah found that participants experienced up to 90% time savings in watering and weeding the gardens. Throughout the growing season, the study participants observed that the plants were healthier and produced at a higher level. 

Drip lines in flower baskets

Summers in Western Idaho get HOT! Using a drip system with a timer, water can be applied when and where it is needed. Unlike a sprinkler that waters a broad area and loses water to evaporation in the air, the drip system puts water directly on the plants when and where you need it. In an article by Colorado State University, it was noted that, “Drip irrigation exceeds 90 percent efficiency whereas sprinkler systems are 50 to 70 percent efficient. Drip irrigation delivers water slowly immediately above, on or below the surface of the soil. This minimizes water loss due to runoff, wind and vapor.” If you pay for your water from a city or municipality, a drip system could result in a lower water bill.  

A watering system set up on timers eliminates the possibility of your gardens not getting watered while you’re gone. At our house for example, if the temperatures are hot, we know can leave our home for a few days and come home to healthy plants.  

Any time is a good time to invest in a drip system. However, springtime is an ideal time to consider designing a drip irrigation system because you can plan your vegetable and flower gardens around the water system. 

While it may sound complicated, it is easy to design and install. There is a lot of information available on drip systems, so do your research. I use a PVC pipe system for the vegetable garden and flexible tubing for our flower gardens.

Raised Bed Gardening for the Mobility Challenged

Injuries, aging, surgery, and arthritis can all limit gardening and growing your own food. But, use of raised beds can enable a growing population to participate in this activity.

Raised beds can be constructed or purchased in heights as short as 5 inches and as tall as 3 feet. For gardeners looking to avoid painful bending, we recommend taller beds. It is also helpful to build beds narrow enough so that the owner can reach half the width from either side easily to weed and care for their plants. Additionally, space beds wide enough apart to easily allow a wheelchair, walker, scooter or wheelbarrow to pass between them and have sufficient space at the ends to turn around.

Since most vegetables require full sun, the beds should be placed in a southern exposure to provide full sunshine. To alleviate concerns of too much sun, consider stretching shade cloth over bent hoops of PVC pipe. Drip system irrigation will provide the best water delivery system and can be easily and inexpensively installed so that mobility-challenged gardeners can irrigate without the difficulty of dragging hoses to hand water.

Above is a picture of David and Anita Henning’s
raised bed system in Kimberly, Idaho.

Raised beds can be constructed of many materials i.e. cement blocks, weathered railroad ties, cedar, redwood, pine or fir lumber, or pressure treated boards. Fir and pine will not last as long and those materials treated with chemicals will need to be lined to prevent treating compounds from leaching into the soil and contaminating the plants.

Home gardeners can construct their own beds using simple tools or purchase pre-made kits from garden centers. Regardless of which option you choose, the raised bed investment is definitely one to consider to allow you to continue gardening well into old age.

Blueberry Lovers Rejoice!

If you love blueberries, then consider planting them in containers! Planting blueberries in the Treasure Valley requires some special care and TLC for your blueberry crop to be plentiful and successful. The soil here is very alkaline with an average pH between 7.2-8.2. Blueberries grow best in an acidic soil with a pH of 4.5-5.2, so a soil amendment is our answer to raising a successful blueberry crop.

Spartan Blueberry bushes (Vaccinium corymbosum), is a Northern Highbush variety. It is known for its attractive color, tasty fruit and blueberries that are often larger than a quarter. The plants grow 4-6ft tall and are 4-5ft wide. The ideal planting time is early spring or late autumn.

Planting blueberries in 5-gallon buckets with 5-6 drain holes in the bottom is one way to grow them. Use an azalea/camellia potting mix with a 4:1 ratio of micro bark to potting soil. Place the blueberries into the soil at the same depth as they were planted at the nursery. Blueberries like full sun with some afternoon protection in very hot areas. Top-dress the plants with 2-3 inches of mulch to conserve water loss and keep the plants cool in the heat of summer. Water plants immediately after transplanting. Blueberries do not tolerate drought or standing water. Irrigate often and from the bottom if possible. If you're watering with sprinklers, water in the morning to allow plants to dry before nightfall. This helps to prevent leaf and fruit disease. You can fertilize your plants 2-3 weeks after planting. Ammonium sulfate (21% N) is popular for blueberries because it adds nitrogen to the soil and helps acidify it. Apply fertilizer evenly around the entire bush. 

Blueberries have shallow roots and container pots provide poor insulation to the roots. To prevent damage to the root zone bury the plants during the cold months (November through February). Your blueberries will do fine in the buckets for the first 2 years and then transplant them into a larger container at least 24 inches deep and 24 to 30 inches wide. It will be 5 years before your blueberries will produce their maximum harvest.

Enjoy your blueberries!

Growing Raspberries in Southwest Idaho

One of the many things I love about living in Southwest Idaho is that we have a wonderful climate for growing raspberries. Did you know that raspberries come in 2 types? You can choose to plant either summer bearing (floricane), or fall bearing (primocane) plants in your garden. Summer- bearing raspberries produce one crop of fruit in early to midsummer. Fall-bearing raspberries produce two crops, one in mid-summer and another in late summer or early fall. They also come in 4 colors: red, yellow, black and purple. Whichever type and color you choose to grow, you can have success with proper planting, care and pruning of your bramble.

Raspberries grow best in sandy loam, well-draining soil. Planting in soil with standing water or poor drainage can cause root rot to take hold. Plant in an area that receives at least 6 hours of full sun per day. Before planting, make sure your chosen site is free of perennial weeds. A clean bed makes for happy, healthy plants! Plant your berries as soon as the ground becomes workable in the spring. Fertilize your plants in the spring as well using a fertilizer low in chlorides. A “complete” fertilizer containing phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium and sometimes other plant nutrients is a good choice. This is a great publication on fertilizing raspberries.

Proper watering and yearly pruning are needed for the best possible harvest.  To ensure a good berry size, raspberries require consistent irrigation from bloom through harvest. Avoid overwatering your plants. Raspberries cannot tolerate wet soil as they are susceptible to root rot. Watering the soil at the base of the plant is the best method as overhead sprinklers can cause fruit and cane disease. Pruning done properly improves light and air movement and removes dead, weak and damaged canes.  It reduces disease problems and pests that affect the quality of your berries.  Summer-bearing and fall-bearing raspberry types are pruned differently -- prune your summer-bearing raspberries twice each year, once in late fall to early spring and once after the summer harvest.  Fall-bearing raspberries need to be pruned in late fall. 

The University of Idaho has some great videos on pruning on their University of Idaho College of Agriculture andLife Sciences YouTube channel. They are worth checking out. With a little knowledge, you are ready to dig in and grow some raspberries. The sweet rewards are definitely worth the work!

Salad Tomatoes, Small but Mighty in Flavor & Production

Good things come in small packages. This platitude rings true for saladette tomatoes, commonly known as salad tomatoes. Their small, ping pong ball form and robust flavors deserve a special place in your garden.

Often overlooked when compared to big beefsteaks or cherry tomatoes, salad tomatoes generally grow larger than cherry tomatoes but smaller than medium-to-large paste and slicer varieties. Many varieties of salad tomatoes possess a relative tolerance to cold, so you can plant them outside when cooler temperatures prevail and other less hardy varieties must still bask in heated greenhouses. No variety of tomato, however, is frost tolerant.

Famed tomato breeder Ben Quisenberry created the Large Red Cherry, that he claims can be canned whole - seeds and all. His unique variety differs from the smaller, more commonly available tomato "Red Cherry, Large.” Lesser-known salad tomato varieties include: Garden Peach, Tigerella and Black Vernissage. As indeterminates, all three varieties require staking and pruning. Garden Peach, a "long keeper" tomato, stores well when picked green just before frost arrives in autumn. Excluding their green stems, the ripened fruit look like small, slightly fuzzy peaches. Tigerella, an English heirloom tomato, wears beautiful orange stripes over a red skin and sets fruit early, often three weeks before than other salad varieties. Immature fruits bear light and dark green stripes. Tigerella demonstrates a degree of cold tolerance and disease resistance, too. Black Vernissage tomatoes sport a deep mahogany skin with subtle green stripes. Excellent for drying, eating fresh and making tomato sauce, this variety remains productive throughout the entire season.

Another benefit of selecting a salad type tomato for your garden is resistance to the dreaded Beet Curly Top virus, a known scourge to tomato plants in the Treasure Valley. The Payette and Owyhee varieties of tomato developed in the 1960s by University of Idaho show resistance to the virus. They grow well in our region, too.

Salad tomatoes have earned the right to be known as the garden workhorse. They produce prolifically and ripen fruit early compared to other non-cherry varieties, making them ideal for higher latitude and altitude gardens. During years of difficult weather conditions, they can be an insurance policy to ensure a tomato harvest. Salad tomatoes also fill multiple niches in the kitchen, performing equally well for canning, making pasta sauce, or used fresh in salsa. 

Branch out, experiment, and plant new tomato varieties this season. You can’t go wrong growing salad tomatoes in your garden.

Xeriscape not ZEROscape

Drought tolerant landscape doesn’t have to mean gravel, and spiky gray plants. Xeriscape (xeri=Greek for dry and scape=view) emphasizes the use of drought tolerant plant species combined with creative landscaping practices to conserve water.

The following terms: water-wise, drought tolerant, water thrifty, and water smart all refer to plants requiring less water in a managed landscape. We all want to use less water in our landscapes and don’t want to be that house with the ugly brown yard.

Whether you have established landscape or total do-over, take a look at the following Eight Principles of Xeriscape:

1. Plant and Design comprehensively from the beginning.

• Lower your water bill.
• Create a more interesting landscape. Plan your annual flower and vegetable gardens and create a planting guide.
• Invite more pollinators into your landscape.
• Don’t just plant and hope for the best
• Create a landscape plan. Identify all the plants in your landscape, their water, sun, and soil needs, and the seasonal maintenance for those plants.
• Record the micro climates in your landscape. Record the plants you add and take out of your landscape and why. Record monthly and annual tasks to remind you when to perform them.
• Develop a fertilization and mulch plan.

Legacy buffalo grass lawn in Boise, ID

2. Create practical turf area. Consider size, shape, and appropriate grasses. Turf uses the highest percentage of water. When planning, consider regionally appropriate turf. Sheep’s fescue (Festuca ovina), and Buffalograss (Bouteloua dactyloides) are two examples of grasses that require less water and grow well in the Treasure Valley. Raise mowing height to 2-4 inches on your mower. The taller grass shades the ground so slows evaporation and promotes deeper root growth. Research shows mulching the clippings instead of removing them, can replace one application of fertilizer per year.

You might consider replacing some of the grass with a  more planting beds for flowers or vegetables. Don’t forget to check your HOA rules when considering the removal of turf.

3. Choose plants for your growing zone.
Once established, regionally appropriate native and low water use plants require little water beyond the normal rainfall (about 12 inches per year of precipitation in the Treasure Valley with 5 of those inches between April-October. Consider soil type, exposure to sun, and choose the right plant for those conditions. 

4. Consider improving the soil with organic matter.  Healthy soil retains water and absorbs excess nutrients, Have your soil tested for nutrient content, PH, soil composition and organic matter. The report will give you suggestions for adding anything that is lacking.

5. Strongly consider using organic mulches such as wood chips.  Adding mulch controls weed growth and slows evaporation, so conserves water. 

6.Irrigate efficiently. Create zones to provide the right amount of water at the right time by grouping plants according to their water needs. Your tree, shrubs, flower and raised beds have different water requirements than your lawn. Consider drip irrigation or soaker hoses for flower beds, shrub and trees. More targeted watering cuts down on weeds and uses less water.
Avoid sprinklers that produce a fine mist or spray high into the air in order to reduce water loss from evaporation and wind.  To check your sprinkler output, use tuna cans or similar straight-sided cans placed at various places around your lawn.  Run lawn sprinklers for 5 minutes and measure the output.  Now calculate the time needed to get  1 inch of water per week on your turf.
Water requirements change often so don’t just set automatic systems and forget them. Review the water requirements often taking into account rainfall, temperature and wind. Adjust the time you water accordingly.

7. Water Harvesting. Direct your roof water into rain barrels or onto your landscape. This recharges Idaho's aquifers as well as irrigating our arid environment. Here's how to build a rain barrel.

8. Maintain your established landscape.  Learn how to prune and fertilize each plant in your landscape and record the requirements in your maintenance schedule.

.Consider visiting xeric demonstration gardens in the Treasure Valley area. Hopefully they will inspire you to improve water conservation in your own home landscape.

The Idaho Botanical Garden has several gardens within its footprint, including The Water Wise Garden and The Fire Wise Garden.

 
These following two links will give you an extensive overview of xeric gardening.

Idaho Landscapes & Gardens | UI Extension (uidaho.edu)

Here's one extensive detailed resource for Intermountain Areas.  

Want amazing color in your garden “where the sun don’t shine?”

Coleus (Coleus blumei)  Coleus plants are eye-dazzlers and easy to grow with impossibly colorful leaves. They are not grown for their flowers but for their leaves.In fact you should pinch flowers off when they appear so that plant energy goes to the leaves. The leaf patterns and colors are distinctly on the wild side — spotted, splashed, and edged in shades of color ranging from purple, yellow, pink, intense red, and luminous chartreuse. Coleus thrives in heat and part shade and only need regular watering to flourish all summer. Some coleus trail so they make the perfect “spiller” for shady area pots.

 

Coleus can stand alone in the shade garden but are spectacular added to the Hostas or Ferns in the shade garden.  Coleus come in so many colors and shapes that they can be placed from the back to the front of your shade garden and make a statement or blend nicely with the perennials you already have planted.  

Coleus are fairly easy to start indoors from seed or plants are readily available just about anywhere nursery plants are sold.  Coleus will be the first plant to succumb to fall frost but if you move them indoors prior to that frost they make colorful houseplants over the winter.

 

 Cornell University has great information for choosing the right coleus variety and growing them in your home garden. 

There are new varieties that grow well in the sun as shown in this video.

Let's get growin' coleus!