Gardener Guide to Saving Seeds

Saving seeds is sustainable and saves money. It also helps strengthen plants as they adapt to local conditions and it preserves your favorite heirloom varieties. Many gardeners love to share or swap their seeds with other gardeners. In this light, we can learn a lot about seed saving from Small-Scale Market Gardening (SMG), which is all about keeping things sustainable, encouraging variety, space-saving, and sharing among gardeners. This process helps plants become stronger and better suited to their local environment.

How to Save Seeds 
Start by selecting healthy, non-hybrid plants. Allow fruits and vegetables to mature fully on the plant before harvesting. Wet seeds, like tomatoes, should be separated from the fruit, rinsed, fermented, and then dried. Fermenting helps remove the gelatinous coating that sometimes inhibits germination. Simply put seeds in water for a few days until a layer of mold forms, which helps break down the coating. After fermentation, rinse the seeds well and dry them. Dry seeds, like beans and lettuce, need to be removed from pods, separated from chaff, and dried. Store dried seeds in labeled envelopes or airtight containers in a cool, dry place to maintain their viability. If you want to be especially crafty, you can use pre-made templates to make your own seed packets!

Concerns About GMO Seeds
Home gardeners sometimes worry about exchanging seed with other gardeners because they don't want GMO contamination. GMOs are not likely to be found in your home garden because no retailer sells genetically engineered seeds to home gardeners. GMO crops are expensive and commercial farmers are required to sign a contract that protects the patented technology. These companies do not sell GM-crops to the home garden market or to garden centers.

The Best Plants for Beginners

• Tomatoes & Peppers are self-pollinating and easy to dry.
• Beans & Peas should be allowed to dry in their pods before you harvest them.
• Lettuce produces abundant seeds and is easy to grow.

Other Things to Consider
Be sure to prevent cross-pollination by isolating certain plants like squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, and corn to maintain pure seed varieties. 

Test germination by sprouting a few seeds before planting. This can be done indoors before the season starts. It is also a good idea to write the date on your seed envelopes and use the freshest seeds first.

By practicing these techniques, you’ll cultivate stronger plants and preserve valuable varieties for the future. Happy seed saving!

Rush Skeletonweed - An Idaho Noxious Weed

 A weed is considered “noxious” when it is harmful to the environment or animals. According to Idaho's Noxious Weeds booklet, Rush Skeletonweed (Chondrilla juncea) is one of the 69 plants designated as a noxious weed by Idaho’s Department of Agriculture. Equipped with knowledge, together we can help curb the spread of this harmful plant in Idaho.

What is Rush skeletonweed?
Rush Skeletonweed is an invasive, non-native, long-lived biennial or perennial that is very persistent, taking years for established colonies to be eradicated.  It is not toxic, being palatable for most livestock, especially sheep and goats (only goats will eat the wiry stems). These stems are so tough that they can interfere with harvesting equipment, making them a bane for farmers raising grain crops. In the West, it is estimated that over 6 million acres are infested with Rush Skeletonweed, and those numbers are likely to continue to grow.

Rush Skeletonweed germinates or re-sprouts in the fall and early spring as a rosette (looking very similar to young dandelions), actively growing through the spring and early summer.  All the while it is establishing a formidable root system that can be 7’ deep with many side shoots, which can form future rosettes. In early summer, as the stem develops the leaves of the rosettes begin to die back. If it is allowed to progress to this point, it cannot be killed chemically.

The small bright yellow flowers produce ripe seeds, without fertilization, in a few days.  These seeds can then be dispersed by the wind miles away. An established, vigorous plant can produce an average of 20,000 seeds each year.

Rush Skeletonweed prefers well-drained, rocky, or sandy-textured soils in climates that are cold in winter, warm in summer, and wet early in the year. Areas that have been disturbed, such as roadsides, empty urban lots, burn scars, logging sites, cultivated fields, droughty areas, and areas that have been overgrazed, seem to be favorable sites. South and central Idaho is currently the epicenter of the infestation, with wheat-growing regions and rangelands being particularly hard hit

.
How can we mitigate this noxious weed?
First, it helps to know that eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a long-term project (possibly seven years or longer), so be patient.

Spraying rosettes with herbicides both in fall and winter is preferable, and spring treatment is also effective. Unfortunately, 2,4-D, and a round-up type product won’t do the job.

Hand pulling is effective if done when seedlings are less than 5 weeks old.  Once the roots have developed, mark the spot, and return periodically to re-dig because 2 or more roots will likely re-grow in the same spot. This method is preferred in your vegetable garden or other areas where you cannot use chemicals.

As mentioned above, grazing is effective, but must be continuous or you will end up with more rosettes or more flowering stems. Controlling and eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a very serious issue. If you have it on your property, take proactive measures to ensure it does not flourish and spread.

Protect your plants from Powdery Mildew

Figure 1: PM on Tomato

 Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects a wide variety of plants. The affected plants have a dusted-with-flour appearance with white to gray powdery spots on the surface of leaves and fruits (Fig 1). It causes cosmetic damage, and defoliation and decreases the quantity and quality of fruit (Fig. 2).

Disease and Development 
There are many different species of (Powdery Mildew) fungi. Most species only attack specific plants in the same or closely related plant families.

Figure 3: PM on roses

For example, powdery mildew on roses does not spread to grapes.

Powdery Mildew fungi overwinter in buds, twigs, bark, and plant debris. Their spores are carried by wind to new hosts. Low relative humidity during the day favors spore dispersal.

Fig 2: PM on grapes

The optimum conditions for spores to germinate are temperatures between 68 to 77°F and high relative humidity (> 70%). Powdery Mildew spores can germinate in the absence of water and can infect in arid conditions (40% humidity). Water on plant surfaces can kill or inhibit germination. Spores and fungal growth are sensitive to extreme heat (above 90°F) and direct sunlight. Shady conditions are favorable for PM development.

Management
The disease triangle is a useful tool to understand and manage diseases like Powdery Mildew (Fig. 3). The severity of Powdery Mildew infections is a function of the presence of the pathogen, the host susceptibility, and the environment. Powdery Mildew can be managed by good cultural practices.   

Fig 3: The Disease Triangle

The best control is to plant only resistant species or cultivars. Avoid excess fertilizer since plants with abundant succulent tissues are more susceptible to infection. The fungi can be eliminated by removing and burning all infected plant tissues and debris. Tools must be disinfected after use.

Another good control method is making environmental conditions less favorable for the disease. Avoid dense canopies by proper plant spacing and pruning to provide good air circulation, reduce humidity and increase sunlight penetration. Plants should not be planted in poorly drained soils or shady damp areas.

Overhead watering of the leaves during the day and when humidity is low can reduce infection. Water washes spores off the plant and inhibits its germination. This control method is not recommended for vegetables since it may contribute to other pest problems.

Powdery Mildew seldom needs chemical control in residential plantings, but it may be warranted in commercial plantings of susceptible crops like grapes and cucurbits. Chemicals are most effective when combined with cultural control. They should be applied before the disease symptoms appear. Further spread may be stopped or slowed with chemical treatment. Materials like horticultural oil or neem oils have a low environmental impact. Apply every 7 to 14 days throughout the season. Do not apply to drought-stress plants when the air temperature is above 85° nor within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray. Wettable sulfur is very effective in preventing infection. Like oil application, it should not be applied when the air temperature is over 90° nor within 2 weeks of an oil application.

Edible Native Landscaping - “Paleo” in Your Own Backyard

Curating your home landscape or garden connects you with a tradition thousands of years old in which humans and plants share a special relationship. Native Shoshone people living nomadic lifestyles began expanding into the area now designated as Idaho as early as 4,000 years ago, and the principle diets of these hunter-gatherers included many edible plants, not to mention the many practical and symbolic uses of plant material. For thousands of years (until contact with Westerners), the indigenous peoples lived off a diet sourced by wild (unfarmed) plants. These wild native plants are still around today, and are ecologically adapted to the Idaho climate and its diverse plant hardiness zones.

Here is a sampling of plants gathered by Shoshone Native Americans for sustenance:

• 

  Arrowleaf Balsamroot

  Camas Bulb (Camassia quamash)
• Wild Onion
• Bitterroot
• Arrowleaf Balsamroot
• Tobacco Root
• Serviceberry
• Chokecherries

• 

  Bitterroot

  Currant
• Pine nuts
• Seeds from Junegrass, Bluebunch Wheatgrass, Thickspike Wheatgrass, and Nevada Bluegrass

Berries were ground and mixed along with hunted meats to form nutritional patties, called pemmican, which were preserved chemically by the acidic berries. Additionally, native tribes in Idaho such as the Nimi’ipuu (Nez Perce) collected:

• 

  Kouse

  Wild Carrot
• Kouse (also called “Biscuit Root” by non-native travelers)
• Sunflowers
• Huckleberries
• Wild Rhubarb

The list could continue, and the above links will give more information about each type of plant. But which ones would grow well in your garden? A good place to start collecting some tips is at the Idaho Native Plant Society resource website. Specifically, the publication Landscaping with Native Plants of the Intermountain Region from the BLM which contains detailed notes and descriptions of nearly all of the edible plants from the above list. The guides include landscape uses and notes, regional considerations, availability, and pollinator attractiveness. Additionally, the two guides specify which of the plants are drought tolerant, how large they grow, how much water and sunlight they need, when they flower, and what color they bloom. 

If there aren’t already enough reasons to focus your landscaping efforts on native plants, the fact that these selected plants have been used in antiquity up to the present because of their important nutritional value to humans gives one more benefit to carefully designing your landscape with location-appropriate plants. The provided references will get you started, and remember also to keep learning along with archeologists and ethnobotanists about how people and plants have survived by cooperating for thousands of years. 

How to Water Your Garden

Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.

Overhead Sprinkler

Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.

There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.

Drip System

Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.

You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.

As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.

Soaker Hose

Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.

A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.

You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method. The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!

Three Bumble Bees of Idaho

Bees are vital to Idaho's ecosystems and agricultural economy, serving as key pollinators for crops, wild plants, and native vegetation. The Treasure Valley, with its fertile soils and ideal climate, is home to both wild and managed bee populations that play an essential role in maintaining biodiversity and ensuring agricultural productivity. From honeybees to native species, these pollinators are crucial for supporting crops such as fruits, vegetables, and seeds, making them indispensable, to the region's farmers and gardeners. Protecting and encouraging healthy bee populations is vital not only for Idaho’s agricultural success but also for preserving its diverse natural habitats.

Idaho's landscapes host a variety of bee species. Three of the over twenty species of bumble bees that have been observed in various regions of Idaho on a myriad of plants are summarized below.

Red-Belted Bumble Bee
(Bombus rufocinctus)
This beauty thrives in higher elevations, such as the Northern Rockies and Idaho Batholith, foraging on plants like lupines, sweet clover, and knapweed. It is a significant pollinator in meadows, forests, and shrublands.
 

Hunt’s Bumble Bee 
(Bombus huntii)

The Hunt’s Bumble Bee is highly adaptable, thriving in diverse habitats such as riparian zones and shrublands, often visiting flowers like teasel and lupine.
 

Morrison Bumble Bee 
(Bombus morrisoni)

This Bumble Bee is found in grasslands, sagebrush steppes, and even urban parks, where it pollinates a wide range of flowering plants including milkweed, thistle and bee balm. The Morrison Bumble Bee population has been in decline in recent years and the monitoring of it is of particular interest. 

Supporting Idaho’s bee populations requires community action. Planting native flowers, creating pollinator gardens, reducing pesticide use, and preserving wild habitats are essential steps to help bees thrive. Small efforts, like planting diverse flowers in urban areas or leaving natural spaces untouched, can significantly impact the survival of these pollinators. By fostering environments that support healthy bee populations, we not only contribute to agricultural productivity but also sustain the natural beauty and biodiversity of Idaho. For more information on creating pollinator-friendly spaces, visit Creating Bee Habitat in Idaho or Planting a Bee Garden. Together, we can ensure that Idaho’s bees—and the ecosystems they support—thrive for generations to come.

Billbugs Cause Major Damage to Lawns (Turf) in the Treasure Valley

Billbugs are small, snouted beetles that belong to the family Curculionidae and are considered to be major pests to lawns in the Treasure Valley. These pests are known for causing significant damage to turf grass and lawns, leading to unsightly brown patches and reduced aesthetic appeal. In this blog, we will discuss what billbugs are, their impact on turf grass, and how to control them using integrated pest management (IPM) methods.

What Are Billbugs?
Billbugs are cylindrical beetles that range in size from 3 to 10 millimeters in length, depending upon life stage. As adults, they have a hard exoskeleton and are usually brown or black in color. Their snout, which is often longer than their body, is used for boring into plant stems. Billbugs undergo a complete metamorphosis, passing through the egg, larval, pupal, and adult stages, with a one-year life cycle (Oregon State University Extension, 2018). The majority of damage from billbugs occurs during the larval stage, as they feed on stems, rhizomes, and crowns, typically just below the soil surface. Damage from billbugs is typically visible in late June or early July each year.

In the Treasure Valley of Idaho, billbugs are particularly abundant in lawns, parks, and golf courses. They feed on the stems and roots of turf grass, causing significant damage to the plant's ability to absorb water and nutrients. This feeding can lead to large areas of grass dying, creating unsightly brown patches that are not only aesthetically unpleasing but also difficult to repair (Idaho State University Extension, 2017).

Impact of Billbugs

The impact of billbugs on turf grass can be significant. In addition to the unsightly brown patches, Billbugs can reduce the health of the grass, leading to reduced aesthetic appeal and causing economic losses for lawn owners (Idaho State University Extension, 2017).

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
Integrated pest management (IPM) is a comprehensive approach to managing billbug infestations that involves multiple control methods. This strategy utilizes cultural, biological, and chemical control methods to promote the health of the turf and prevent billbug damage. Cultural control methods involve selecting the proper grass varieties that exhibit resistance to billbug feeding. Several cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass, such as ‘Park’, ‘Arista’, and ‘NuDwarf’, have been proven to exhibit resistance to billbug feeding. Additionally, endophyte-enhanced ryegrasses and fescues display high resistance to billbug feeding (University of Utah). IPM of Billbugs also includes implementing proper irrigation, fertilization, and mowing practices to maintain healthy turf. Biological control methods may involve releasing beneficial insects that feed on billbugs to control their population. Several nonchemical bio-pesticides exist, including purchasing and applying predatory nematodes (Stinernema & Heterorhabditis spp.), as well as a fungal organism (Beauveria bassiana) that are listed and registered for control of billbug larvae in lawns. When necessary, insecticides can be used to control billbugs, but should be used with caution to avoid harming beneficial insects and creating insecticide-resistant billbug populations (The University of Idaho Extension, 2017). 

Properly implemented IPM practices can effectively manage billbugs and maintain healthy turf. 

Is Square Foot Gardening Right for You?

Square Foot Gardening (SFG), a high-density garden method invented by Mel Bartholomew in the late 1970s, gives gardening a new look from plants being planted in the traditional long rows to plants strategically planted within a square foot. This gardening method reduces the size of a garden’s footprint while increasing its productivity and offers a simple and accessible garden layout for the new gardener no matter the age or physical ability, allowing anyone to be able to grow their own food.

SFG requires less space and uses less water than conventional gardening while producing more in a comparable space. Planted in raised beds, thus no tilling or heavy digging, the garden beds can be in any shape from the classic 4 x 4-foot bed to a narrower 3 x 7-foot bed or anywhere in between to take advantage of your available space. The bed size flexibility makes SFG an excellent gardening method for urban gardeners with limited space, while the higher density planting will allow community gardens to grow more produce. Also, the garden beds can be raised up on legs, instead of being placed on the ground, to create an elevated bed making it more accessible for seniors and individuals in wheelchairs.

Beds are divided into one-foot squares for planting with the number of plants per square foot depending on the plant. In SFG vegetables are divided into four classes: Extra-large (ex. cucumbers) are generally planted only one per square or sometimes one plant for two squares; Large (ex. head lettuce) are planted four per square; Medium (ex. spinach) are planted nine per square; and Small (ex. radishes) are planted sixteen per square.

For the extra-large plants, trellises can be added to the side of the raised bed, allowing a vining plant to climb or placed in a cage to support plants like tomatoes to keep the produce off the dirt and control the foliage by keeping it within the one or two square feet allotted for the plant.

There are several online resources available to assist the new gardener as well as a seasoned one with additional research of the square foot gardening method and apps to help plan out the garden. There are online courses you can enroll in. This Square Foot Gardening article covers the basics and special techniques involved with this gardening method. 

So, is Square Foot Gardening right for you? Has your interest in this gardening method been piqued? This method of gardening can help just about anyone, no matter where they live, or their experience level to be able to enjoy growing their own food. Happy Gardening!

Vertical Gardening: Grow Up, Not Out

If you’ve ever felt limited by a small yard or patio but want to grow your own plants, vertical gardening is the perfect solution. Utilizing vertical space instead of ground space, a vertical garden allows you to grow flowers, fruits, and vegetables in a compact and efficient way. Also known as green walls, living walls, or eco walls, vertical gardens are now even being used in farming for crops like lettuce, tomatoes, and strawberries. With all the advantages of vertical gardening, why grow out when you can grow up? 

Vertical gardens can thrive in a variety of settings. Whether you have a sunny balcony, a shaded patio, or a compact backyard, there’s a setup that will work for you. Some great places for a vertical garden include decks, porches, patios, small backyards, and even indoor living spaces with proper lighting.

Choosing Your Containers and Structures
A vertical garden can be built using many different materials, making it a fun and customizable project. Stacking containers are ideal for strawberries and herbs, while pallets work well for growing lettuce, herbs, and small flowers. Trellis fencing is a great choice for supporting squash, cucumbers, and baby butternut squash. Tripods or teepee shapes are perfect for supporting peas and beans. Upcycled materials, such as old fencing, blank walls, and repurposed containers, can be transformed into a unique and sustainable vertical garden.

How to Start Your Vertical Garden
To begin, choose a suitable container based on the plants you want to grow. Use a high-quality, well-draining soil mix to ensure proper plant growth. Decide whether you want to grow flowers, fruits, vegetables, or a combination of all three. Set up a watering system, such as a timed drip system for efficiency or manual watering for hands-on care. Position plants based on their light requirements to ensure proper growth, and plan for shade by strategically placing taller plants to protect lower-growing ones. Different plants require different fertilization schedules, so be sure to research your choices before applying nutrients.

Maintaining Your Vertical Garden
To keep your vertical garden thriving, regular maintenance is key. Fertilize plants as needed to ensure they receive the proper nutrients. Monitor the function of your watering system and adjust it as necessary. Regularly prune and trim plants to keep them healthy and encourage new growth. Train climbing plants by using ties or trellises to guide them upwards. Keep an eye out for pests and take preventive measures to protect your plants. Make sure your plants get enough sunlight and are shielded from strong winds to prevent damage.

A vertical garden opens endless possibilities for growing a lush, thriving green space in even the smallest areas. With a variety of containers, structures, and plant choices, you can customize your vertical garden to be just right for you. Plus, repurposing materials and containers makes it a sustainable and cost-effective gardening option. At the end of the growing season, you can reuse many of the materials for the next year, making it an investment in both beauty and practicality. So why limit yourself to traditional gardening when you can take your garden to new heights? Start your vertical garden today and enjoy the benefits of growing up, not out!

Successful Seed Selection, Saving, and Storage

A successful garden starts with a tiny seed, but selection, saving, and storing these seeds correctly can be much more complicated, and oftentimes overwhelming. This guide will introduce the different seed types and explain effective techniques for saving and storing until they are ready to be planted in the soil.

Types of Seeds

When selecting which type of seeds to plant it is important to understand the different methods of producing the seeds. 

GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) seeds have been genetically engineered to    introduce specific traits, such as pest resistance or herbicide tolerance. While they offer certain advantages, their long-term environmental and health implications are subjects of ongoing debate. GM seeds are not likely to be found in your home garden because no one sells genetically engineered seeds to home gardeners. GMO crops are expensive, and commercial farmers are required to sign a contract that protects the patented technology. These companies do not sell GM crops to the home garden market or to garden centers.

Hybrid seeds are produced by crossing plants of the same species. Hybrid seeds will potentially have the most desirable attributes of each variety, but they will not remain true to the parent line and therefore are not recommended for seed saving.

Open-pollinated seeds are produced through natural pollination by insects, wind, humans or other natural means. Open-pollinated varieties are well-suited for seed saving and offer a wider range of flavors, colors, and adaptations to local conditions.

How to Save Seeds
Once the plants have grown and fully matured, it is time to harvest and save the seeds. Different procedures apply whether you are collecting “wet” or “dry” seeds. 

Plants with wet seeds include tomato, eggplant, cucumber, melon, squash and pumpkin. These seeds need to be harvested when fruit is ripe and then processed to remove wet pulp or coatings. In order to do this, scoop the seeds out of fully ripe fruit and put them in a glass jar filled with water. Stir the mixture a couple of times a day. The mixture will ferment and viable seeds will sink to the bottom. Finally, pour out the liquid, rinse the seeds and set them out to dry. 

Dry seeds are much easier to save, remove any dirt or debris and spread them out to dry completely. Some of the easiest seeds to save are peas, beans, lettuce, tomatoes and arugula. Always remember to harvest from the healthiest plant with the most desired traits.

Storing Seeds
Store seeds in airtight containers in a cool, dark, and dry location to prevent moisture and oxygen from entering. Label each container with the seed variety, harvest date, and germination rate. Optimal storage conditions for seeds involve low temperatures (around 40°F or 4°C) and low humidity. Avoid exposing seeds to direct sunlight, as this can reduce their viability. It is a good idea to periodically check stored seeds for signs of mold, pests, or deterioration. 

By carefully selecting seeds, you can cultivate resilient and productive gardens in the Treasure Valley. Saving and storing open-pollinated seeds is a rewarding and useful way to contribute economically and sustainably to maintaining your garden.

Light Pollution - Effects and Solutions

Have you heard about light pollution and its effect on people, animals, and our beloved yards and gardens? While there is no need to panic, raising your awareness about sensible solutions might just help you and your garden to thrive in the future.

The Effect of Light
The health of plants and ecosystems is reliant on and directly affected by light. The natural, daily flow from day to night slowly changes throughout the year based on the Earth’s rotation around the sun. We call these natural periodic fluctuations in daylight and temperatures, “seasons”. Living things have evolved and adapted to the changes of the seasons based on various environmental factors, like the number of hours of daylight they receive. Summer solstice represents the longest day of the year (and the shortest night). After this day, the length of our days shortens, and nights lengthen as we move away from summer and transition into fall and winter. The reverse happens when we move from winter back to summer. These purposeful light changes cue the plants in our gardens to initiate biochemical changes. For example, garden plants finish forming the seeds, fruits or roots as days get shorter heading into autumn.

Excessive Light
Light pollution refers to the excessive and/or misdirected artificial light produced by humans. In addition to interfering with our body clocks, affecting our sleep patterns, and hiding the beauty of the night sky, it also negatively affects our gardens and trees by creating an illusion of longer days and shorter nights. In the case of our urban trees, especially street trees, the leaves and buds that experience prolonged “daylight” perceive an endless summer. Affected leaves keep on growing, while the leaves farther away from the light source can start to senesce and change colors. The dormancy of landscape trees is greatly affected by high-intensity light sources, such as high-pressure sodium lamps.

Artificial light is extremely harmful to insects, as well. The light attracts insects that don’t normally move from their habitat, disrupting normal flight activity. Moths are one victim of this. Because of these disruptions to insect life in the evening and at night, our pollinators are being affected. Due to habitat loss, these pollinators are already under pressure to perform. We need them so that we can have successful home gardens.

Reduction of Light Pollution
Light pollution is fairly easy to reduce. Simply dimming outdoor lighting or directing it only where needed can make a huge difference. Other solutions include changing the color temperature of outdoor lighting. Warm tones such as amber-colored bulbs are the least harmful. Timers and motion sensors can also help, since they aren’t lighting up except when necessary. Using streetlights that point light only where needed are also a solution that many cities across the world are implementing.

It is estimated that as much as 30% of the electricity generated to turn on our outdoor lights is squandered by being misdirected into the sky. Using the appropriate light type, just when it’s needed, can go a long way towards saving energy and allowing our plants and trees to bud, flower and fruit appropriately.
 
While some light is necessary if we are going to drive our cars and spend time outdoors at night, it has not been proven that more lighting is better. More light causes glare off the road for nighttime driving. Using only the light that we need will be better for the pollinators and for our trees and plants. 

Storing Potatoes for Winter Enjoyment

Potatoes are vegetables that are easy to grow and also store well over winter if handled properly. The time between planting and harvesting of mid-season and late varieties of potatoes typically ranges from 90 to 120 days. Once harvested, Idaho potatoes require careful harvesting and storage to ensure they remain fresh and flavorful through the winter months. Here’s a guide to help you through the process.

Harvesting Potatoes
Typically, Idaho potatoes are ready for harvest about 2-3 weeks after the plants have died back. Look for yellowing leaves and stems. Use a pitchfork or shovel to gently lift the tubers from the soil. Be cautious to avoid piercing the potatoes, as this can lead to rot during storage. After harvesting, brush off any excess soil but avoid washing them. Moisture can encourage rot, so it’s best to keep them dry until you’re ready to store.

Storing Potatoes (click here to watch a video)
Before storage, allow your potatoes to cure in a dark, cool place (around 45-60°F) for about 1-2 weeks. This helps to heal any cuts and toughens their skin. Potatoes should be stored in a dark, well-ventilated area, ideally at temperatures between 35-40°F. A root cellar, basement, or a cool garage works well. Avoid exposure to light, which can cause greening and bitterness. Use burlap sacks, cardboard boxes, or wooden crates to store your potatoes. Avoid plastic bags, as they trap moisture and can lead to spoilage. Periodically inspect your stored potatoes. Remove any that show signs of spoilage to prevent the spread to healthy ones.

With the right care, you can enjoy the taste of potatoes long after the harvest season. By following these tips for harvesting and storing, you’ll enjoy your garden’s bounty throughout the winter months.

The Effects of Wildfires on Plants and Ecosystems

As wildfires across the United States increase in frequency and intensity, the Treasure Valley faces the impacts of smoke and ash. While much attention is given to the health risks for humans, the effects of wildfire smoke on plants and ecosystems are equally concerning.

Reduced Photosynthesis
One immediate effect of wildfire smoke is the reduction of sunlight reaching plants. Smoke creates a haze that blocks sunlight, hindering photosynthesis. However, research shows that smoke can also act as a protective cover, reducing high temperatures and burning ultraviolet rays. This diffused light allows for more efficient photosynthesis, reaching lower foliage that typically remains shaded. Still, the benefits can be mitigated by air pollutants. High concentrations can clog the stomata on leaf surfaces, severely limiting photosynthesis and potentially damaging plants.

Effects of Ash
Wildfire ash can have both positive and negative impacts as well. Composed of essential nutrients like potassium, magnesium, and calcium, a light layer of ash can act as a fertilizer. However, excessive ash can suffocate plants by blocking light and trapping moisture, further stressing them.

Ash can also be considered toxic if not washed off of your vegetables. Smoke and ash won't absorb deep into the fruit or vegetable, so washing thoroughly will take care of residues. Consider rinsing fruits and veggies off outside and again before you eat them. You can also add a layer of protection by peeling and removing the outer leaves of leafy greens to reduce your risk.

Impact on Pollinators and Ecosystems
Wildfire smoke also affects pollinators vital to flowering plants. The haze reduces visibility, disrupting the foraging habits of bees and other pollinators, leading to decreased fruit and seed production. This can threaten local ecosystems and shift species composition, impacting wildlife habitats and water quality.

What Can We Do?
Watering: Keep plants well-watered to help them cope with stress.
Soil Health: Use organic amendments to buffer pH changes and enhance nutrient availability.
Cover Crops: Plant cover crops to protect soil health and improve biodiversity.
Monitoring: Regularly check plant health and address pest or disease issues.

Understanding the effects of wildfire smoke on plants in the Treasure Valley is crucial for protecting our gardens, crops, and ecosystems. While there are both benefits and challenges, awareness and proactive measures will be key to maintaining the health of our cherished landscapes. Ongoing research will further illuminate the long-term impacts of wildfire smoke on both plants and humans, helping us adapt to this growing threat.

Understanding Soil Life: Texture and Good Fungi

The Life Within Soil

Soil is a bustling habitat teeming with life, yet much of its microbiome remains hidden from our eyes. Gardeners often seek to understand their soil better—how to test it, enhance its structure, and boost its fertility. The distinction between "soil" and "dirt" is more than just a matter of semantics; soil is a vibrant ecosystem, whereas dirt is lifeless. Soil serves as the Earth’s biological skin, supporting 95% of the food we consume and anchoring ecosystems such as forests, prairies, and agricultural fields.

Soil is more than just dirt; it is a rich tapestry composed of sand, silt, and clay. The term "soil texture" refers to the proportions of these three components, which significantly influence key factors such as drainage, water retention, and nutrient availability. For instance, "sandy loam" has a higher sand content, allowing for excellent drainage, while "clay loam" features more clay, which retains moisture and nutrients. "Silty loam," with its greater silt content, offers a smooth feel and balances drainage and retention. The ideal "nice loam" contains a harmonious mix of sand, silt, and clay, making it perfect for gardening.

Soil Texture:  To better understand your soil’s texture, you can conduct a simple hands-on test.  You'll need a shovel, water, and, of course, your hands. Here’s how:

1. Dig: Excavate 6-12 inches into the soil and moisten it if it's dry.

2. Sample: Collect a cup of soil from at least 6 inches below the surface.
3. Test: Perform Tests A and B in multiple locations and at varying depths.
Test A
Rub some moist soil between your fingers. You’ll notice that sand feels gritty like sugar, silt has a smooth, silky texture reminiscent of flour, and clay feels sticky like dough.
Test B
Squeeze the soil into a ball, then pinch it between your thumb and index finger to form a "ribbon." Sandy soils struggle to maintain a ribbon shape, while silty and clay-rich soils excel at it—heavy clay can even hold a ribbon several inches long.

For a more detailed analysis, consider getting an agricultural soil report, which can reveal your soil’s pH, organic matter content, mineral levels, nitrate concentration, and texture. This information is invaluable for plant selection and overall garden health.

One other remarkable aspect of soil is the  presence of mycorrhizae, beneficial fungi that form symbiotic relationships with plants. These fungi enhance nutrient absorption and improve soil health. To learn more about mycorrhizae, check out Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott’s detailed descriptions and images.

Growing a Revolution
Soil plays a crucial role in the water cycle, filtering and gradually releasing water to streams, rivers, and lakes year-round. It breaks down organic matter—such as fallen leaves, animal waste, and deceased plants—into essential nutrients, recycling them for plant growth.

David Montgomery, a prominent advocate for soil health, emphasizes the importance of revitalizing our soils. With one-third of arable land lying dormant, nurturing our soil is vital for healing the planet and feeding a growing population.

Whether you're a scientist, a farmer, or a backyard gardener, the resources linked below will deepen your understanding of the world thriving just beneath your feet.

Further Resources
Explore engaging videos and interactive games from the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center http://forces.si.edu/soils/

Discover soil health information sponsored by the U.S. government https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/conservation-basics/natural-resource-concerns/soils/soil-health