Have you ever been elbow deep in dirt and wondered why or what is happening to your plant? Do you wish you knew more about your soil and how to make your plants happier? Are you looking for research-based information that will allow you to reduce pesticide use and help work together with beneficial bugs? If you said yes to any of the above, YOU ARE NOT ALONE!
Become an Idaho Master Gardener in Canyon County - learn the art and science of horticulture! Our series of classes provide you with a variety of ways to improve your gardening skills...and share your passion and knowledge with others. Do you want to connect with other gardeners in your community? Then you will not want to miss this opportunity!
Classroom learning
The Idaho Master Gardener program consists of TWO phases:
Phase One: This 50 hours of classroom training provides a stress-free, engaging learning environment. Fresh coffee, water, and tea at each session is also a great perk! Maybe even food...
Phase Two: After the classroom training, you will complete 30 hours of practicum education via volunteer service.
Hands-on field trips
2cTurf & Team site visit
You will also have the opportunity to choose from focus areas in which you would like to complete your hands-on experiences with various teams: Tree & Turf, Integrated Pest Management, Junior Master Gardener, Outreach, Plant Sale, and Social Media. Teams build comradery and skills. FUN, too!
Start Date: University of Idaho Extension, Canyon County (Caldwell, ID) Idaho Student Master Gardener classes start September 10, 2025 and run through April 15, 2026. Classes are held on every other Wednesday morning from 8:30am-12pm at the University of Idaho Research & Extension Center, 1904 E. Chicago Street, Caldwell, Idaho 83605.
Cost: The cost for the 2026 Canyon County Master Gardener program is $280 to be paid by 8/29/2025 (scholarships and payment plans are available). This cost includes a handbook, a soil test, several hands-on labs, field trips, a background check, a Master Gardener t-shirt and a name badge at the end of the course.
Application Deadline: The deadline to apply for the Canyon County Idaho Master Gardener program is August 15, 2025. Get your spot early as space is limited in class. We at the U of I Extension want everyone to be comfortable and safe while learning about horticulture. We offer in-person classes (while spots are available). Complete your application today!
IPM Scouting Walk
The Idaho Master Gardener program is NOT a gardening class, rather a VOLUNTEER and DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM.The University of Idaho Master Gardener Volunteer Program serves as an educational and volunteer organization. All course participants must be willing and able to contribute 30 hours of practicum volunteer service prior to September 30, 2026, to complete certification. There will be plenty of time and lots of opportunities to complete your hours.We look forward to having you join our team.
Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.
Overhead Sprinkler
Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.
There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.
Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.
You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.
As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.
Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.
A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.
You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method. The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!
Have you ever been elbow deep in dirt and wondered why or what is happening to your plant? Do you wish you knew more about your soil and how to make your plants happier? Are you looking for research-based information that will allow you to reduce pesticide use and help work together with beneficial bugs? If you said yes to any of the above, YOU ARE NOT ALONE!
Become an Idaho Master Gardener in Canyon County - learn the art and science of horticulture. Our series of classes provides you with a variety of ways to improve your gardening skills...and share your passion and knowledge with others. Do you want to connect with other gardeners in your community? Then you will not want to miss this opportunity!
Classroom learning
The Idaho Master Gardener program consists of TWO phases:
Phase One: This 48 hours of classroom training provides a stress-free, engaging learning environment. Fresh coffee and tea at each session is also a great perk! Maybe even food...
Phase Two: After the classroom training, you will complete 40 hours of practicum via volunteer educational service.
Hands-on field trip
You will have the opportunity to choose from areas in which you would like to complete your hands-on experiences with various teams: Tree & Turf, Integrated Pest Management, Junior Master Gardener, Outreach, Plant Sale, and Social Media. Teams build comradery and skills. FUN, too!
Start Date: University of Idaho Extension, Canyon County (Caldwell, ID) Idaho Master Gardener classes start January 10 and run through May 8, 2024. Classes are held on Wednesday mornings from 9am-12pm at the Canyon County Extension Office, 501 Main Street, Caldwell, Idaho.
Cost: The cost for the 2024 Canyon County Master Gardener program is $175 (scholarships and payment plans are available). This cost includes a handbook (electronic or hard copy), a soil test, several hands-on labs, at least two field trips, a background check, a Master Gardener t-shirt and a name badge at the end of the course.
Application Deadline: The deadline to apply for the Canyon County Idaho Master Gardener program is December 22, 2023. Get your spot early as space is limited in class. We at U of I want everyone to be comfortable and safe learning about horticulture. We offer in-person classes (while spots are available). If you need another way to attend, please contact us with any questions. Complete your application today!
IPM Scouting Walk
The Idaho Master Gardener program is NOT ONLY a gardening class. It is VOLUNTEER TRAINING.The University of Idaho Master Gardener Volunteer Program serves as an educational and volunteer organization. All course participants must be willing and able to contribute 40 hours of practicum volunteer service prior to September 30, 2024, to complete certification. There will be plenty of time and lots of opportunities to complete your hours.We look forward to having you join our team.
Helping people growis what we do.
Apply here 👉 https://bit.ly/2024_ApplicationPacket
Signs of spring are all around and the patch of dirt you put to bed last fall is ready to plant! Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.
Overhead Sprinkler
Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.
There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.
Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.
You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.
As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large
garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.
Soaker Hose
Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.
A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.
You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method.
The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!
With signs of Spring all around, you look out at the patch of dirt you put to bed last Fall and feel excited at the prospect of what you might plant there.
Then one beautiful, warm day you plant seeds and starts then stand back and admire your work. You are soon discover your work has only begun. The primary hurdle in keeping your garden alive will be to provide adequate amounts of water throughout the dry, arid Southwest Idaho Summer.
Keeping your plants wet may not seem like a big hurdle in May but, trust me, if you do not have a good plan in place you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July.
It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze pros and cons for each method.
Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers many with a moving head that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are of course ease of installation and low cost.
Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.
There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation.
Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants.
Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.
Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants.
A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to apply a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows the water runs onto the plant’s base.
Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.
You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through that main tube. You can customize exactly which plants you’d like to receive the water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants.
Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.
As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Yet this can sure save precious time and allows you to go on vacation without worrying about your garden.
Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib.
Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.
A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there.
Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.
You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method.
The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!
Have you ever seen a flower or weed or insect and wanted to know what it is? Or ever had your lawn or favorite plant/tree/bush suddenly start looking sick and wanted to know why?
You may not realize it, but expert help may be right around the corner!
Starting on April 30, hours are Monday 1-4, Wednesday 1-4, and Friday 9-12.
Plant clinics take place at many locations around the area. Many are held at the County Extension Office while others may be at the local nursery or garden center, or at your community farmers market.
Idaho Master Gardener volunteers are trained to help you in plant and pest ID as well aiding in diagnosing what is wrong with a sick plant, tree, bush or lawn.
For more information about becoming a Master Gardener volunteer or to contact our Plant Clinic, contact your local University of Idaho Extension office!
Tribulus Terrestrisis known by many other names such as:Caltrop, Puncture Vine, Tack Weed, Bull Head,Goat Head, Cat Head,and Mexican Sand Bur. As foreboding as these names sound, the reality is even more sinister. Caltrop plants like to stay very low to the ground, where they can escape the wrath of lawnmowers, weed-whackers, bush-cutters and other similar enemies. Keeping a low profile, their tentacles sprawl out quickly and quietly in a generally radial fashion from its central headquarters to form a far-reaching network of evil intentions. Each plant can produce several hundred to several thousand stealthy, strong, and sharp caltrop-like burs that have the potential to seriously injure people, animals, and even thin-walled pneumatic tires (like bicycle tires).Fortunately, they also produce small, yellow, bee-foraged flowers that serve as a subtle warning for the wise. You have been warned!
HOW DID IT GET THERE?According to numerous reliable sources, Puncture Vine originated from southern Europe and northern Africa. Supposedly, it was (accidentally) imported into the United States along with livestock from the Mediterranean area. Bummer!
Goathead seed
WHERE DOES IT THRIVE?Tack Weed loves to take root along railways, roadsides, walkways, residential properties, cultivated fields, and other disturbed places. It thrives in hot, dry, sandy soils; but will also grow in most other soils too. The plants don’t generally survive freezing temperatures, but the seeds survive almost any condition. For more, click here.
WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR?Bull Head makes a fantastic organic deterrent against bare-footed or bicycle-bound bandits. Just plant Bull Head plants in the form of a natural barrier; or, if you happen to be on the run, simply toss a handful of Bull Head burs (seeds) in the suspected path of bandit travel and your problems should be solved in short order – unless, of course, you are dealing with boot-wearing bandits!
It is also worth noting that in India, Tribulus Terrestris is called Gokhru and is claimed to have many medicinal uses – including acting as an aphrodisiac!
HOW CAN YOU GET RID OF IT? Click hereIf desired, there are three main ways to control or eliminate Goat Head:
1) Pull it out by hand or hoe (Be sure to collect all seeds!)
2) Kill it with chemicals (Always follow label directions!)
The gardening books emphasize the need for planning and
designing.Landscaping involves the
combination of small flowering plants, bushes, trees, and non-animate objects
like ponds, fountains, rock paths and structures, wooden structures, and
miscellaneous art objects placed strategically around the property.Obviously it is possible to have too much or
too little, therefore the necessity to plan and design the appearance of the
property.
Generally the majority of the space will be in grass.I need to deal with areas of full sun and
almost full shade with moss. I have determined to aerate in early spring,
change the watering pattern, and seed some areas with shade grass.
Then it is necessary to plan the layout of the garden areas considering
the location of vegetables, flower beds, shrubs, trees, and man-made structures
like trellises, ponds, rock work, and paths.
Spring
·If the mulch that you
applied in fall consists of a coarse material, such as large, unshredded
leaves, or if the mulch tends to mat down over time and form a barrier, then
you should generally remove that layer of mulch in spring at a time when the
threat of severe cold has passed (https://www.thespruce.com/spring-landscape-maintenance-tips-2130818)
·Rake lawn, deeply, to
remove thatch and snow mold
·Get rid of moss.The potential causes and solutions are:
