The Harvest Gathering: A Thanksgiving Story

As the crisp autumn air settles in, many find themselves preparing for one of the most recognized holidays: Thanksgiving. This holiday has roots that trace back to a moment in 1621 when the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag people came together in a spirit of cooperation and shared survival—an important interaction between two cultures.

The Arrival of the Pilgrims

In 1620, the Pilgrims arrived on the shores of what is now Plymouth, Massachusetts, seeking a new life away from religious persecution. Their first winter was harsh, and many suffered from hunger and illness. Their future seemed uncertain until they encountered the Wampanoag people, who had lived in harmony with the land for generations.

The Wampanoag Way: Masters of Agriculture

The Wampanoag were not just skilled hunters and gatherers; they were also masters of agriculture. Their deep understanding of the local ecosystem allowed them to cultivate a variety of crops that thrived in the New England climate. Among their most treasured crops was corn, or maize, which was central to their diet and culture.

• Corn: The Wampanoag grew various strains of corn, including flint corn, known for its hard outer shell. This staple food was often ground into meal for bread or  porridge, providing essential nourishment.

• The Three Sisters: A hallmark of Wampanoag agriculture was the practice of companion planting, particularly the cultivation of the "Three Sisters"—corn, beans, and squash. This method involved planting corn as the tallest plant, providing a structure for the climbing beans. The beans enriched the soil with nitrogen, while the broad leaves of squash helped retain moisture and suppress weeds. This sustainable approach demonstrated a deep respect for the land.

Seasonal Cycles and Land Management

The Wampanoag followed a seasonal agricultural calendar closely tied to nature. Planting typically began in the spring, often aligned with the lunar cycle, and harvesting took place in the fall. They understood the timing for planting different crops to ensure a successful yield.

Their land management techniques included crop rotation and controlled burns, which cleared fields and enriched the soil. These practices maintained the fertility of their land and encouraged biodiversity, allowing them to thrive in a challenging environment. 

A Gathering in 1621

After a successful harvest in the fall of 1621, the Pilgrims and Wampanoag came together for a three-day feast, often referred to as the first Thanksgiving. This gathering included roasted fowl, likely wild turkey or ducks, venison, alongside steaming pots of corn and perhaps a rich squash dish. While there might not have been pumpkin pie as we know it today, there were certainly pumpkins, which could have been turned into a savory pudding or soup.

The gathering was significant not only for the food but also for the strengthening of relationships. For the Pilgrims, it was a chance to acknowledge the assistance of their Indigenous neighbors. For the Wampanoag, it was an opportunity to reinforce diplomatic ties and share in the bounty of the land.

A Shared Legacy

The Thanksgiving feast symbolizes cooperation and the complexities of cultural exchange. As we think about this gathering today, it’s essential to recognize the relationships that shaped this moment. Many Indigenous peoples view Thanksgiving as a time for reflection, honoring their ancestors and the history that preceded European colonization.

Conclusion

As you prepare your Thanksgiving meal this year, consider the shared legacy that connects us all. From the corn nurtured by the Wampanoag to the agricultural practices passed down through generations, this holiday invites us to reflect on the importance of community and understanding.

Storing Potatoes for Winter Enjoyment

Potatoes are vegetables that are easy to grow and also store well over winter if handled properly. The time between planting and harvesting of mid-season and late varieties of potatoes typically ranges from 90 to 120 days. Once harvested, Idaho potatoes require careful harvesting and storage to ensure they remain fresh and flavorful through the winter months. Here’s a guide to help you through the process.

Harvesting Potatoes
Typically, Idaho potatoes are ready for harvest about 2-3 weeks after the plants have died back. Look for yellowing leaves and stems. Use a pitchfork or shovel to gently lift the tubers from the soil. Be cautious to avoid piercing the potatoes, as this can lead to rot during storage. After harvesting, brush off any excess soil but avoid washing them. Moisture can encourage rot, so it’s best to keep them dry until you’re ready to store.

Storing Potatoes (click here to watch a video)
Before storage, allow your potatoes to cure in a dark, cool place (around 45-60°F) for about 1-2 weeks. This helps to heal any cuts and toughens their skin. Potatoes should be stored in a dark, well-ventilated area, ideally at temperatures between 35-40°F. A root cellar, basement, or a cool garage works well. Avoid exposure to light, which can cause greening and bitterness. Use burlap sacks, cardboard boxes, or wooden crates to store your potatoes. Avoid plastic bags, as they trap moisture and can lead to spoilage. Periodically inspect your stored potatoes. Remove any that show signs of spoilage to prevent the spread to healthy ones.

With the right care, you can enjoy the taste of potatoes long after the harvest season. By following these tips for harvesting and storing, you’ll enjoy your garden’s bounty throughout the winter months.

The Effects of Wildfires on Plants and Ecosystems

As wildfires across the United States increase in frequency and intensity, the Treasure Valley faces the impacts of smoke and ash. While much attention is given to the health risks for humans, the effects of wildfire smoke on plants and ecosystems are equally concerning.

Reduced Photosynthesis
One immediate effect of wildfire smoke is the reduction of sunlight reaching plants. Smoke creates a haze that blocks sunlight, hindering photosynthesis. However, research shows that smoke can also act as a protective cover, reducing high temperatures and burning ultraviolet rays. This diffused light allows for more efficient photosynthesis, reaching lower foliage that typically remains shaded. Still, the benefits can be mitigated by air pollutants. High concentrations can clog the stomata on leaf surfaces, severely limiting photosynthesis and potentially damaging plants.

Effects of Ash
Wildfire ash can have both positive and negative impacts as well. Composed of essential nutrients like potassium, magnesium, and calcium, a light layer of ash can act as a fertilizer. However, excessive ash can suffocate plants by blocking light and trapping moisture, further stressing them.

Ash can also be considered toxic if not washed off of your vegetables. Smoke and ash won't absorb deep into the fruit or vegetable, so washing thoroughly will take care of residues. Consider rinsing fruits and veggies off outside and again before you eat them. You can also add a layer of protection by peeling and removing the outer leaves of leafy greens to reduce your risk.

Impact on Pollinators and Ecosystems
Wildfire smoke also affects pollinators vital to flowering plants. The haze reduces visibility, disrupting the foraging habits of bees and other pollinators, leading to decreased fruit and seed production. This can threaten local ecosystems and shift species composition, impacting wildlife habitats and water quality.

What Can We Do?
Watering: Keep plants well-watered to help them cope with stress.
Soil Health: Use organic amendments to buffer pH changes and enhance nutrient availability.
Cover Crops: Plant cover crops to protect soil health and improve biodiversity.
Monitoring: Regularly check plant health and address pest or disease issues.

Understanding the effects of wildfire smoke on plants in the Treasure Valley is crucial for protecting our gardens, crops, and ecosystems. While there are both benefits and challenges, awareness and proactive measures will be key to maintaining the health of our cherished landscapes. Ongoing research will further illuminate the long-term impacts of wildfire smoke on both plants and humans, helping us adapt to this growing threat.

Chill Out! Cold Stratification for Native Plants

Cold stratification is an important step for growing many native plants in USDA Hardiness Zone 7. This process mimics winter conditions, helping seeds break dormancy and ensuring they germinate at the right time in spring. In the Boise area, which is situated in Ecoregion Level III 12 (Snake River Plain) and borders Ecoregion Level II 10.1 (Cold Deserts), you have a unique opportunity to cultivate a variety of native plants. Whether you’re interested in wild sunflowers, asters, goldenrods, lupines, purple coneflowers, milkweed, or penstemon, following these steps will help you successfully propagate these beautiful species in your garden.

Understanding the Ecoregion

Ecoregion 12 features a mix of desert and semi-arid environments, characterized by cold winters and warm, dry summers. The region's soils vary from sandy to clayey, which influences the native plant communities that thrive here. Plants in this area have adapted to withstand drought and temperature extremes, making them well-suited for home gardens that aim to support local wildlife and conserve water.

Starting Seeds Indoors or in a Greenhouse

Starting your native seeds indoors or in a greenhouse allows you to control conditions better. Follow these steps:

1. Gather Your Seeds: Collect seeds from native plants in the fall, ensuring they are fully mature and dry.

2. Prepare Your Pots: Use seed-starting pots filled with a seed-starting mix. Make sure the pots have drainage holes.

3. Moisten the Medium: Lightly moisten the seed-starting mix so it's damp but not soggy.

4. Cold Stratification:

• Option A: Directly in Pots: Sow the seeds in the pots, covering them lightly with soil only if they don’t require light to germinate. If they do need light, surface sow seeds and place the pots in the refrigerator for 4-12 weeks. Keep the pots in a plastic bag to retain moisture.

• Option B: Pre-soaking: Alternatively, mix seeds with a moist medium like sand or peat moss in a zip-top bag, refrigerate for 8-12 weeks, and then surface sow them in pots after stratification.

5. Move to Light: After the stratification period, move your pots to a well-lit area or greenhouse. Ensure they receive plenty of light but avoid direct, harsh sunlight at first.

6. Water Regularly: Keep the soil consistently moist (but not waterlogged) as the seeds begin to germinate.

7. Transplanting: Once the seedlings have a few true leaves and the danger of frost has passed, transplant them into your garden or larger containers.

Starting Seeds Outdoors in your garden or raised beds

1. Gather Seeds: Collect seeds in the fall from mature plants, ensuring they are fully dry. This timing allows you to utilize natural seasonal changes for germination.

2. Prepare the Planting Area: Choose a well-draining spot in your garden or raised beds. Loosen the soil and remove any weeds or debris.

3. Surface Sow: Scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil. Many native seeds benefit from light exposure to germinate, so avoid covering them deeply. If the seeds require some soil coverage, lightly sprinkle a thin layer of soil over them.

4. Watering: Gently water the area to help settle the seeds into the soil without washing them away. Ensure the soil stays consistently moist, especially during dry spells.

5. Winter Conditions: As winter arrives, the seeds will experience natural cold stratification, which helps break dormancy and prepares them for germination.

Benefits of Cold Stratification By cold stratifying your seeds, you help ensure healthy germination and align plants with their natural growing cycles. This process also supports local ecosystems by enhancing biodiversity, stabilizing soil, and conserving water.

With a little preparation, you can successfully cultivate beautiful native plants that thrive in your region, including wild sunflowers, asters, goldenrods, and lupines. 

Happy gardening!

Pumpkin Rescue: Creative Ways to Reuse or Recycle!

As Halloween and fall come to a close, many of us are left with an abundance of leftover pumpkins and seasonal decorations. Rather than throwing them away, consider innovative ways to preserve what you can eat and give the rest a new purpose. Here are some clever ideas that not only help reduce waste but also dispel common pumpkin myths along the way.

Preserve What You Can Eat

One of the most rewarding ways to utilize your pumpkins is by preserving them for future meals. Fresh pumpkin can be roasted, pureed, or made into soups, pies, and other delicious dishes. If you have leftover pumpkin flesh, consider freezing it in portions. Just scoop out the insides, blend, and store in airtight containers or freezer bags.

However, be cautious: only use pumpkins that are fresh and free from mold or decay. Moldy or unsafe pumpkins can pose health risks, so ensure that any pumpkin you plan to eat is in good condition before using it.

Composting Fun

If you have leftover pumpkins that are no longer fit for consumption, composting is an excellent option. Pumpkins are biodegradable and rich in nutrients that can enhance your garden soil. Simply chop them into smaller pieces to expedite the composting process. Myth alert: Many people worry that adding pumpkins to compost will attract pests. In reality, balancing your compost with greens and browns can help prevent pest issues while creating nutrient-rich soil.

Feed Our Animal Friends

Consider donating your pumpkins to local farms or animal sanctuaries. Pigs, goats, and chickens relish pumpkin as a tasty and nutritious treat. Myth buster: There’s a common misconception that feeding animals pumpkin will make them sick. However, as long as the pumpkins are fresh and mold-free, they can be a healthy snack for livestock.

Get Crafty

Before you toss out your seasonal decor, think about how you can upcycle those pumpkins! Transform them into charming planters, candle holders, or fun bird feeders. Hollow out the pumpkins, carve a design, and fill them with soil and seeds. Myth-buster: Some believe that you can’t plant pumpkin seeds after Halloween. Not true! You can clean and dry the seeds from your pumpkins and plant them next year.

Recycling

Boise residents are encouraged to place their pumpkins in their compost carts this season. The city’s Compost Facility appreciates pumpkins during this time, as the extra moisture and nutrients help break down leaves. Check with your local waste management or agricultural offices for recycling efforts available in your area.

Natural Decorations

To maintain the cozy fall ambiance, consider using natural decorations like dried flowers or pinecones that can also be composted later. These elements enhance your home’s warmth without adding to landfill waste. 

By embracing these creative solutions for leftover pumpkins and fall decor, you not only reduce waste but also enhance your culinary and gardening experiences. So, before you toss that pumpkin, remember: every gourd deserves a second chance!

Cozy Up, Little Bugs! The Quest for Perfect Winter Hideaways!

Now that fall is upon us in southwestern Idaho, it’s the perfect time to explore whether structures like bug snugs and butterfly houses truly support overwintering insects. While these habitats can be charming additions to your garden, their effectiveness in providing shelter for beneficial insects is worth examining.

In this region, insects have diverse overwintering strategies. Many butterflies and other beneficial insects overwinter as eggs, caterpillars (larvae), or chrysalises rather than as adults. For instance, monarch butterflies migrate to warmer areas to survive the winter, while others may find refuge in leaf litter or within protective layers of plants. Given this, the role of butterfly houses in supporting overwintering populations can be limited, particularly for species that do not remain as adults during colder months.

Bug snugs can offer more significant benefits. By providing cozy spaces filled with natural materials like dried leaves, straw, and twigs, bug snugs can create ideal microhabitats for overwintering insects, including solitary bees and ladybugs. These insects often seek out sheltered spots to hibernate, and well-constructed bug snugs can help meet that need.

Additionally, a bug snug is a great option for those with smaller yards. They can be designed to fit in compact spaces, making them ideal for urban gardens. Even in limited areas, bug snugs can contribute to local biodiversity by providing shelter for beneficial insects, which is especially important in densely populated regions. Creating a bug snug can also be a fun project for families, fostering interest in gardening and nature while teaching kids about the important roles insects play in our ecosystem.

However, while bug snugs and butterfly houses may provide some shelter, they are not substitutes for natural habitats. Encouraging diverse environments in your garden is crucial. This includes planting native flora that supports the entire life cycle of butterflies and other beneficial insects. For example, host plants provide food for caterpillars, while nectar-rich flowers attract adult butterflies.

In southwestern Idaho, focusing on native plants, such as milkweed for monarchs or asters for late-season nectar, will create a more effective environment for insect populations. Allowing leaf litter to accumulate and avoiding excessive cleanup in the fall can also provide additional overwintering opportunities for insects, as many rely on this natural debris for protection.

In conclusion, while bug snugs may effectively support certain overwintering insects, butterfly houses might not be as beneficial for many butterfly species. By creating a diverse and supportive garden environment filled with native plants and natural shelters, you can enhance insect populations and foster biodiversity in your garden, ensuring a healthier ecosystem for years to come.

Frost, Freeze, and Hard Freeze: What Every Gardener Should Know

As the chill of autumn settles in, it’s crucial to understand the differences between frost, freeze, and hard freeze to protect your precious plants. Here’s a quick breakdown:

Frost: The Sneaky Chill - Frost appears when water vapor in the air deposits as ice on solid surfaces. This typically happens when temperatures dip between 33°F and 36°F, especially with light winds. While frost may only cause minor damage, it’s important to note that if the air is dry or the winds are strong, frost can be unpredictable.

Freeze: The Serious Threat - A freeze occurs when temperatures drop to 32°F or lower. This can lead to significant damage for many unprotected plants, especially if the freeze lingers for several hours.

Hard Freeze: The Plant Killer - When temperatures plunge to 28°F or lower for a few hours, we experience a hard freeze. Unfortunately, this often means the end for many plants and seasonal vegetation.

Expert Insight: Mark Longstroth from Michigan State University Extension explains it clearly: “A frost is when you see a visible layer of ice, while a freeze is simply when temperatures drop below freezing.” Sometimes, you might even spot frost while the air remains above freezing due to colder surfaces, like your car or roof.

Special Cases

Black Frost: This occurs when temperatures drop low enough to freeze plants without visible frost. Frozen plants can take on a sad, water-soaked black appearance as they perish.

Wind Freeze: A cold air mass can sweep in, causing temperatures to plummet, even with winds at play.

Protect Your Plants! Want to give your garden the best chance to survive the upcoming frosty nights? Here are some simple steps you can take:

Cover Up: Use frost fabric, sheets, or plastic to shield your plants.

Water Wisely: Give your plants a drink with warm water to help them stay resilient.

Trickle Effect: Let water run at a gentle trickle for a few days to maintain moisture—just don’t overdo it!

Wrap Young Trees: Wrapping young tree trunks helps insulate them against cold temperatures, preventing freeze damage and maintaining healthier bark during harsh winter conditions.

Pots: To overwinter potted plants, move them indoors to a cool, bright location or use a cold frame for protection. Insulate pots with mulch or wraps, group them together for a microclimate, and remember to adjust your watering schedule to prevent rot during the colder months.

For specific timing, check the Idaho Average First Frost Date Map for accurate information tailored to your county.

By taking these steps, you can help your plants brave the chilly weather and thrive until spring returns. Protect your green friends, and enjoy a flourishing garden year-round!