Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.
Overhead Sprinkler
Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.
There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.
Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.
You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.
As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.
Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.
A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.
You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method. The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!
Shamrocks have long been a symbol of Ireland and have even been considered a symbol of good luck. They are popular houseplants and fun gifts for friends and neighbors on St. Patrick’s Day. Shamrocks are easy to grow indoors if you follow these simple and easy to remember steps:
Light Shamrocks prefer bright, indirect sunlight, be sure to place your plant in a window where it will receive plenty of light. Shamrocks will flower, even during winter, if they receive enough light. Each night the plant's leaflets fold up, then reopen in sunlight the following day.
Food Shamrocks like food! Fertilize them regularly with either a liquid houseplant or a time-release fertilizer during their growing season. As always, we recommend following label instructions.
Iron Cross Shamrock
Soil As a houseplant, they prefer moist soil. Avoid allowing your shamrock to dry out during the growing season.
Temperature Give your shamrock a growing temperature between 50 and 70 °F during the growing season. They can be placed outside after danger of frost has passed and are a beautiful addition to your pots or in a grouping of pots.
Dormancy Shamrocks have a dormant period. When your shamrock goes dormant, usually in late summer, don’t fret! Just place it in a cool, dry location out of direct sunlight for 2-3 months. The purple-leaf types only need one month of dormancy.
It’s warming up so we are all watering our lawns. With the warm weather and water, come those irritating and possibly disease infested mosquitoes.
What do mosquitoes have to do with yards? When you over water your lawn the earth beneath doesn’t dry out and creates a perfect mosquito habitat. There are certain species of mosquito that will lay eggs in the damp mud and the next time your water comes on; the water sits on top of the earth for a period of time that allows the mosquito eggs to hatch. On warm days it doesn’t take very long for a mosquito to go from egg, larvae, pupae to adult. Once the female adult mosquito hatches, it looks for a blood meal. Yep, you and your family!
Another problem is the water filling up buckets, flower pots, wheel barrows or other items left outside. This water then sits, heats up and then becomes stagnant. Female Culex species of mosquito love to lay their eggs in this water. This species can carry West Nile Virus and transmit it to you and your family with one bite.
You can help keep your family safe by making sure you are watering your yard properly, and that your sprinklers are only watering the things they should be and that they are not leaving puddles below the heads.
Another thing to consider is a smart sprinkler controller. Many of these come with the ability to track the weather and skip a watering if it isn't needed. It can save water, money, and help avoid standing water.
There are many published articles on the web about how to water your type of grass and how much water is enough...and the kind of pests that can flourish in unhealthy turf. A great publication for Idaho residents to refer to for guidance is The Pacific Northwest Handbook.
The “Rule of thumb” that is widely used is: water as deeply and as infrequently as possible. This stimulates root growth resulting in healthy drought tolerant and pest resistant turf (like mosquitoes)! A healthy root system produces vigorous turf: rooting depth is determined primarily by genetics and soil condition, not irrigation!
Signs of spring are all around and the patch of dirt you put to bed last fall is ready to plant! Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.
Overhead Sprinkler
Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.
There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.
Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.
You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.
As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large
garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.
Soaker Hose
Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.
A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.
You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method.
The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!
Shamrocks have long been a symbol of Ireland and have even been considered a symbol of good luck. They are popular houseplants and fun gifts for friends and neighbors on St. Patrick’s Day. Shamrocks are easy to grow indoors if you follow these simple and easy to remember steps:
Light Shamrocks prefer bright, indirect sunlight, be sure to place your plant in a window where it will receive plenty of light. Shamrocks will flower, even during winter, if they receive enough light. Each night the plant's leaflets fold up, then reopen in sunlight the following day.
Food Shamrocks like food! Fertilize them regularly with either a liquid houseplant or a time-release fertilizer during their growing season. As always, we recommend following label instructions.
Soil As a houseplant, they prefer moist soil. Avoid allowing your shamrock to dry out during the growing season.
Temperature Give your shamrock a growing temperature between 50 and 70 °F during the growing season. They can be placed outside after danger of frost has passed and are a beautiful addition to your pots or in a grouping of pots.
Dormancy Shamrocks have a dormant period. When your shamrock goes dormant, usually in late summer, don’t fret! Just place it in a cool, dry location out of direct sunlight for 2-3 months. The purple-leaf types only need one month of dormancy.
Caring for houseplants during the winter months is vital to maintaining these beauties at their best! Winter conditions indoors require homeowners to change the way they manage the humidity (or lack of), watering, and placement of houseplants. Plants require the correct amount of light and water in order to live, which will vary greatly, depending on the type of plant you have.
Light can be measured in two simple ways:Quality is the color and brightness of the light, while quantity refers to the number of hours a plant receives light.There are a few options for light sources, but light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are both energy-efficient and last a long time. Additionally, LED plant lights emit only the red and blue light needed by plants, with little heat.
The type of medium in which your plant is growing. Soil moisture probes are instruments that measure soil moisture. There are even some that send you a text message telling you that you need to water your plant.
Here are some great tips for how to care for your sick plant. Houseplants, just like other plants, often get sick due to under- or over-watering, over fertilizing, or lack of attention. Enjoy the benefits of your houseplants all year long!
Caring for houseplants during the winter months is vital to maintaining these beauties at their best! Winter conditions indoors require homeowners to change the way they manage the humidity (or lack of), watering, and placement of houseplants. Plants require the correct amount of light and water in order to live, which will vary greatly, depending on the type of plant you have.
Light can be measured in two simple ways:Quality is the color and brightness of the light, while quantity refers to the number of hours a plant receives light. Light quality and quantity are important for houseplants as they impact color, size, shape, and flowering. A light meter can be purchased at your local garden center to tell you how much light your plant is receiving.
The type of medium in which your plant is growing. Soil moisture probes are instruments that measure soil moisture. There are even some that send you a text message telling you that you need to water your plant.
Here are some great tips for how to care for your sick plant. Houseplants, just like other plants, often get sick due to under- or over-watering, over fertilizing, or lack of attention. Enjoy the benefits of your houseplants all year long!
·Shamrocks prefer direct sunlight, be sure to place your plant in a window where it will receive plenty of light. Shamrocks will flower, even during winter, if they receive enough light. Each night the plant's leaflets fold up , then reopen in sunlight the following day.
·Shamrocks like food! Fertilize them regularly with either a liquid houseplant or time release fertilizer during their growing season- always following label instructions.
·As a houseplant, they prefer moist soil. Avoid allowing your shamrock to dry out during the growing season.
·Give your shamrock a growing temperature between 50 and 70 °F during the growing season. They can be placed outside after danger of frost has passed and are a beautiful addition to your pots or in a grouping of pots.
·Shamrocks have a dormant period. When your shamrock goes dormant, usually in late summer, don’t fret! Just place it in a cool, dry location out of direct sunlight for 2-3 months. The purple-leaf types only need one month of dormancy!
Since your shamrock grows from small bulbs, it's easy to divide and create new plants. Here's a short video with how-to steps for propagating. Happy St. Paddy's Day to you!
With signs of Spring all around, you look out at the patch of dirt you put to bed last Fall and feel excited at the prospect of what you might plant there.
Then one beautiful, warm day you plant seeds and starts then stand back and admire your work. You are soon discover your work has only begun. The primary hurdle in keeping your garden alive will be to provide adequate amounts of water throughout the dry, arid Southwest Idaho Summer.
Keeping your plants wet may not seem like a big hurdle in May but, trust me, if you do not have a good plan in place you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July.
It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze pros and cons for each method.
Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers many with a moving head that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are of course ease of installation and low cost.
Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.
There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation.
Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants.
Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.
Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants.
A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to apply a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows the water runs onto the plant’s base.
Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.
You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through that main tube. You can customize exactly which plants you’d like to receive the water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants.
Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.
As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Yet this can sure save precious time and allows you to go on vacation without worrying about your garden.
Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib.
Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.
A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there.
Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.
You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method.
The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!
To produce top quality lawns you need to care for the grass so that its growth is not limited by nutritional needs, insects, or weed pests and water.
Water is usually the biggest problem that needs to be solved to develop the best looking lawns. Lawns need from one inch to one and a half inches a week. If the soil is good and of adequate depth it is best to apply water twice a week. More water than 1.5 inches will weaken the root system because it slows the movement of oxygen in to the soil and the root require oxygen to survive. When less than an inch of water is applied the soil will dry out between water and the top of the grass will start to go dormant.
The amount of Fertilizer the grass needs depends on how is it used and what you want it to look like, here is a good article on the issue.
The article focused on nitrogen because it is the nutrient the grass needs us to supply the most, the other nutrients you may need to supply are phosphorus and potassium. A soil test will help you determine how much, if any, of these nutrients you need to apply.
Growing up as a ginger (redhead) there were several
things I learned early on we just part of living with red hair.
Besides freckles, there was the need to always wear sunscreen. This was
reinforced a few weeks ago when I was on the big island of Hawaii and decided to
take a hike from South Point to Papakolea Beach, the green sand beach.
I’ve
done plenty of hikes before, conquering some of Colorado’s peaks and this was a
three-mile hike so it sounded simple enough to me. I set out with my backpack
full of flip flops, swimming trunks, a towel and a bottle of water, but no sun
screen. I’ve done much longer hikes in my day and thought this would be fairly
simple.
What I had not accounted for was the latitude! I was, after all, at the southernmost
point in the United States and the sun was intense! There are no trees, and the
wind blows incessantly. In fact, if it was not for the fact the ocean was right
three on one side, the rest of the view could easily be mistaken for southern
Idaho. Red clay, grasses, and low growing shrubbery in a dry climate and basalt
rock. Oh, and it was very windy! About halfway there, I was wishing that I had
brought sunscreen.
So, you’re probably thinking
“cool travelogue man, what’s your point?” Bear with me, because it relates to
plants.
Plants need protection from the sun too! Especially young trees. One of the
more common issues people contact me about with their trees is what I call
Southwest Winter Burn, or sunscald. This is caused by some pretty simple physics.
The easiest way to understand it is to stick a can of soda in the freezer and forget about it.
What happens is the sun is warmest in winter when it is on the southwest
horizon. As the sun’s heat warms up the tree’s trunk, sap starts flowing. Since
sap is a liquid, the sun sets, temperatures drop below freezing and the
freezing liquid expands, bursting cells and trunks. Much like that can of soda
in your freezer you forgot about.
Young trees are especially prone to this. Trees with
thin bark are even more prone to this. This includes Acer (maples), Betula (birch), Fraxinus (ash), Gleditsia (honeylocust),
Malus (apples), Prunus (apricot,
cherry, peach, plum), and others.
There are a few ways to help minimize bark damage in the winter. The first
method is to eliminate drought stress. If your irrigation was shut off in September
or October, your tree has not had water for several months now. They are likely
to be drought stressed going into the winter. Fall and
winter watering is critical
for tree and plant survival. This may mean you need to drag hose and water with
municipal water. Just don’t forget to disconnect the hose from the faucet once
you are done watering. Usually once a month with temperatures above 45˚ you
should be taking the hose out and allowing the water to soak deeply into the
soil. Turn the hose on a low trickle in the morning and shut it off before the
sun sets. If it is windy where you live, you need to water more frequently.
Evergreens suffering from drought stress will show brown tips. Just like me on
my three-mile hike on a sunny, windy trail, trees in these situations will need
more water.
The next two things involve sunscreen. Although not like lotion or SPF factors,
trees and plants need protection from the sun in one of two ways:
1. Apply a one to one diluted white interior latex based paint to the trunk.
2. Wrap the tree with tree
wrap available at most nursery or landscape garden centers. If you do this, be
sure to remove the wrapping in the spring. Trees breathe through “lenticels” on the
trunk. Trunks also need to expand as they grow. The other thing that you risk if
you forget to remove the wrap is that it makes a great place for disease, decay,
insects, fungus and other unwanted things to live along the trunk of the tree
you are trying to protect.