A Dead Hedge: An Old Idea Worth Bringing Back

What if some of this fall’s pruning didn’t need to leave your yard at all?

A dead hedge is a simple structure made by placing branches, twigs and woody garden cuttings between two rows of upright stakes. Unlike a loose brush pile, everything is contained in a narrow space, creating something that can look surprisingly intentional while providing habitat for wildlife.

And despite its recent popularity in wildlife gardening, the idea isn’t new.

For centuries, people used branches, brush and woven woody material to create barriers around fields and gardens. Early versions served a practical purpose—marking boundaries, controlling livestock and protecting planted areas. Dead hedges were also associated with traditional woodland management, where branches left from cutting and managing trees and shrubs could be stacked between stakes rather than hauled away. Some of those brush barriers eventually collected seeds and supported living vegetation, helping form the hedgerows that became such a familiar part of the British landscape.

Today, the dead hedge has found another job: backyard habitat.

As branches settle and slowly decay, the spaces between them provide cover and protected areas for insects and other invertebrates, while birds may use the structure for shelter, foraging or nesting. The Royal Horticultural Society notes that dead hedges have long been used in managed woodlands and nature reserves and are increasingly being incorporated into gardens.

That doesn’t mean you need a large property.

In a subdivision yard, a dead hedge might be only three or four feet long. Place it along a back fence, beside a shed, behind a garden bed or around a compost area. Drive two parallel rows of sturdy stakes into the soil and layer woody prunings lengthwise between them. Keep the sides neat and trim anything protruding into walkways.Then simply add to it as you prune.

Fall is an especially easy time to start because branches from shrubs, small trees and woody perennials are already part of garden cleanup. Avoid adding diseased plant material, invasive plants that could spread, or anything treated with pesticides that could harm the wildlife you’re trying to support.

For homeowners who like a tidy garden, a dead hedge offers a nice compromise: less material to haul away, a place to put future prunings, and a little more habitat tucked into the landscape.

It may be called a dead hedge, but there can be quite a bit of life inside.

Idaho Native Bitterbrush (Purshia tridentata)

Bitterbrush (Purshia tridentata (Pursh) DC), commonly called antelope bitterbrush, is a native shrub species found throughout much of the Intermountain West and is well established across Idaho. This plant belongs to the rose family (Rosaceae) and is an important component of Idaho’s native plant communities. Bitterbrush is well adapted to dry, semi-arid environments and plays a critical ecological role in sagebrush steppe, a dry grassland ecosystem with low rainfall, and open woodland ecosystems across the state.

Purshia tridentata is native to Idaho and occurs widely, particularly in southern and central regions. It grows on well drained, rocky or gravelly soils and is commonly found on slopes, benches, and open flats. Bitterbrush often grows alongside Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, sagebrush, juniper, and ponderosa pine. Its widespread distribution confirms that it is a naturally occurring species rather than an introduced plant.

Bitterbrush is a woody, multi stemmed shrub that can reach heights of up to ten feet. Its wedge-shaped leaves have three small teeth at the tip, which gives the species its name tridentata. In spring, it produces small yellow to cream colored flowers that attract native pollinators. Seeds are often cached by rodents, supporting natural regeneration.

Ecologically, bitterbrush provides critical benefits for wildlife. It is a primary winter food source for mule deer, elk, and pronghorn because it remains accessible and nutritious when other vegetation is limited. It also provides cover for birds and small mammals and improves soil fertility through nitrogen fixation.

In Idaho, bitterbrush is commonly used in rangeland restorationand habitat improvement. However, it is sensitive to overgrazing, frequent fire, and poor regeneration. Maintaining healthy populations is essential for sustaining biodiversity and ecosystem resilience across Idaho’s rangelands. A University of Idaho bulletin describing sagebrush grass habitat types in southern Idaho identifies antelope bitterbrush (Purshia tridentata) as a characteristic shrub in multiple shrub grass communities, reinforcing its native status and ecological importance in Idaho rangelands.

References

Utah Valley University. (n.d.). Purshia tridentata – Antelope bitterbrush. https://www.uvu.edu/crfs/native-plants/purshia-tridentata.html

Eastern Washington University. (2019). Purshia tridentata – Flora of Eastern Washington and adjacent Idaho. https://inside.ewu.pedu/ewflora/purshia-tridentata/

Hironaka, M., Fosberg, M. A., & Winward, A. H. (1983). Sagebrush-grass habitat types of southern Idaho (Bulletin No. 35). University of Idaho, Forest, Wildlife and Range Experiment Station. https://objects.lib.uidaho.edu/fwres/fwres171.pdf

Scotch Thistle: Spotting & Stopping this invasive in Idaho Landscapes

Have you noticed a massive, silver-green giant creeping into nearby pastures, roadsides, or even the back corners of your home garden? Scotch thistle (Onopordum acanthium) is making an aggressive push across Idaho landscapes, and this highly invasive weed requires early intervention.

Originally brought to the United States in the 1800s as a Mediterranean ornamental plant, it quickly jumped the fence. Today, it is an officially listed Class B Noxious Weed in Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. If left alone, it can easily form dense, virtually impenetrable stands that choke out native forage, block access for wildlife, and cause a major headache for homeowners.

Knowing the Lifecycle: Year One vs. Year Two

The secret to managing Scotch thistle is understanding how it grows. It operates primarily as a biennial plant, adapting its growth strategy based on the local environment:

• Year One (The Rosette): The plant spends its first year low to the ground, focusing energy on building a tough taproot. It forms a wide rosette of gray-green, velvety leaves covered in a thick mat of woolly hairs and sharp yellow spines. These rosettes can spread up to 2 feet wide.

• Year Two (The Giant): In its second year, the thistle bolts. It shoots up a heavily branched, winged stem that can tower over 8 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Globe-shaped, dark pink to lavender flowerheads emerge at the branch tips in mid-summer.

Why Is It Such a Problem?

A single, healthy Scotch thistle plant is capable of producing 8,400 to 40,000 slender, plumed seeds. These seeds are easily caught by the wind, hitch a ride on moving wildlife, or travel via contaminated soil, gardening equipment, and hay.

Once it establishes a foothold in wet meadows, dry rangelands, or disturbed garden soils, it quickly forms thick patches. Its formidable, spiny armor physically blocks animals from grazing and prevents access to waterways.

How to Control Scotch Thistle in Your Space

Tackling an infestation requires an integrated management approach combining mechanical, cultural, and targeted chemical methods.

1. Manual and Mechanical Removal

• Dig it out early: Small infestations are easiest to manage when the plants are still in the low rosette stage. Use a sharp shovel to slice the taproot completely below the soil surface.

• Gear up properly: The sharp spines are no joke! Always wear heavy-duty leather or chemical-resistant gloves and thick protective clothing to avoid painful punctures.

• Time your mowing: For larger patches, mowing can prevent seed production, but timing is everything. Mowing too early causes the plant to simply recover and flower closer to the ground. Mowing too late means cut flowerheads left on the ground can still successfully release viable seeds.

• Bag and trash: If the thistle has already started blooming, bag up and discard the cut flowerheads in the trash rather than composting them.

2. Cultural and Biological Methods

• Establish Competition: The single best long-term defense against thistle seeds is a dense, well-maintained lawn or pasture. Healthy, thick turfgrass or native groundcover will naturally outcompete invading seedlings.

• Managed Grazing: While there are currently no approved biological insect controls for Scotch thistle, goats will readily graze the prickly flowerheads, and sheep will sometimes feed on the younger rosettes.

3. Herbicide Control

When physical removal isn't practical, a targeted herbicide treatment may be necessary. Applications are generally most effective when sprayed during the active spring growth phase before the plant bolts. Remember to follow all pesticide safety protocols: wear proper protective clothing and avoid spraying during windy or excessively hot conditions to prevent chemical drift and volatility.

For specific chemical recommendations and timing tailored to your local county, consult the Pacific Northwest Weed Management Handbook or contact your local county noxious weed coordinator.

Remember Your Legal Obligations

Because Scotch thistle is on regional quarantine lists, it is illegal to buy, sell, transport, or distribute the plants, seeds, or wildflower mixes containing them. Keeping our boots, tools, and tires clean after visiting infested areas is a simple step that goes a long way toward protecting Idaho's beautiful open spaces.

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Resources & Further Reading:

• Identification and Management of Scotch Thistle — Oregon State University Extension Catalog

• Noxious Weed Search: Scotch Thistle — Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board

• University of Idaho Extension — Landscapes and Lawns

Curled Tomato Leaves: Stress or Curly Top?

Seeing curled leaves on your tomato plants can be alarming, but curled leaves do not always mean disease. In many cases, the plant is simply reacting to stress.

Physiological leaf roll is a common response to growing conditions. It usually begins on older leaves near the bottom of the plant. The edges of the leaves cup upward and may roll inward, sometimes forming a tight, tube-like shape. Even though the leaves look unusual, the plant generally stays green, continues growing, and keeps producing fruit. Fruit quality and yield are usually not seriously affected.

Several things can trigger physiological leaf roll. Hot weather, drought, uneven watering, overly wet soil during high temperatures, heavy pruning, too much nitrogen, phosphorus deficiency, or a heavy fruit load can all contribute. Some tomato varieties are also more prone to leaf roll than others. The best response is usually simple: keep soil moisture as even as possible, avoid overfertilizing, and do not remove too much foliage at once. During extreme heat, temporary afternoon shade may also help reduce stress. There is no need to remove the plant just because the leaves are rolled.

Beet curly top disease is different. It is caused by Beet curly top virus and is spread by the beet leafhopper. Tomatoes are commonly affected, but peppers, beans, squash, table beets, Swiss chard, melons, cucumbers, and many weeds can also serve as hosts.

Curly top causes more than curled leaves. Infected plants may become yellow and stunted. Leaves can look thick, leathery, twisted, or brittle, and the veins may turn purple. New growth may be distorted, fruit production may slow or stop, and young plants can die. Unlike physiological leaf roll, plants infected with curly top do not recover.

Take a look at the whole plant before deciding what is wrong.

Is the plant still green and growing normally, with curling mainly on the older, lower leaves? Is it still setting and ripening fruit? That points more toward physiological leaf roll.

Is the plant stunted, yellowing, brittle, or declining? Are the newest leaves distorted? Do you see purple veins, leathery foliage, or very little fruit? Those symptoms are more concerning for beet curly top.

Plants suspected of having curly top should be removed because they will not improve. Managing nearby weeds may help reduce possible host plants. Young transplants can also be protected with row cover or shade cloth while they are becoming established, as long as row covers are removed when pollination is needed.

The bottom line: Leaf curl by itself does not equal curly top. Look at the plant’s color, growth, leaf texture, fruiting, and overall health before reaching a conclusion.

Interested in learning more?

• University of Idaho Extension — Physiological Leaf Roll of Tomato
• Oregon State University Extension — Physiological Leaf Roll of Tomato
• Utah State University Extension — Curly Top of Tomato

Creating a Fire-Resistant Landscape Around Your Home

The saying goes, “Where there’s smoke, there’s fire.” While that early proverb remains true, smoke is not the only danger during a wildfire. Embers—burning pieces of airborne wood or vegetation—can be carried by the wind for more than a mile. These embers may start spot fires or ignite homes, debris, fences and other objects.

Here we will cover ways homeowners can help reduce damage to homes and other structures by creating a fire-resistant landscape and choosing plants that are also suited to dry conditions.

What Are the Primary Threats to Homes During a Wildfire?

Research comparing homes that were destroyed with those that survived points to wind-blown embers and small flames as the primary ways homes ignite during wildfires.

Homeowners can prepare their property to resist embers and reduce the chance of flames reaching the house or attached structures. The condition of the home and the area immediately surrounding it can make an important difference. This space is known as the Home Ignition Zone, or HIZ.

The Home Ignition Zone is generally divided into three areas.

1. Immediate Zone: 0 to 5 Feet

This is the area closest to the house and the most vulnerable to ignition from embers.

• Remove leaves, pine needles and other debris from roofs, gutters, decks and along the foundation.
• Keep firewood, wooden planters, combustible decorations and wood mulch away from the siding.
• Cover exterior vents with corrosion-resistant metal mesh with openings no larger than 1/8 inch.
• Whenever possible, keep this zone free of vegetation and use gravel, rock, concrete or another noncombustible surface.

Current wildfire guidance recommends keeping the first five feet around the home as free of
combustible materials as possible. When plants are retained in this area, they should be widely spaced, carefully maintained and surrounded by noncombustible materials.

Possible low-growing plants include:

Hardy ice plant (Delosperma species): A low-growing succulent with colorful summer flowers. It works well in rock gardens but should be kept from forming a continuous mat.

Stonecrop or sedum (Sedum species): Fleshy, water-storing plants that remain low to the ground. Many varieties are well suited to hot, dry locations.

Hens and chicks (Sempervivum species): Compact succulent rosettes that can be placed among rocks or gravel.

Turkish speedwell (Veronica liwanensis): A low, mat-forming groundcover with small blue flowers.

Even these plants should be placed cautiously. No plant is completely fireproof, and accumulated dry leaves or stems can become fuel.

2. Intermediate Zone: 5 to 30 Feet

The goal in this zone is to slow the movement of fire and prevent flames from reaching the house.

• 
  Space trees and shrubs so their branches do not touch.
• Remove lower tree limbs, generally up to 6 to 10 feet from the ground, while avoiding removal of more than one-third of the tree’s live crown.
• Keep grass mowed to no more than about 4 inches.
• Remove dead leaves, branches and flower stalks.
• Plant in small, separated groups rather than creating continuous beds of vegetation.

This zone can include low-growing perennials, lawns or lawn alternatives, and carefully selected deciduous shrubs.

Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium): A widely adapted perennial with finely divided foliage. Western native forms are available, and established plants tolerate dry conditions.

Blanket flower (Gaillardia species): A deep-rooted, drought-tolerant perennial that provides colorful flowers through much of the summer.

‘Autumn Amber’ three-leaf sumac (Rhus trilobata ‘Autumn Amber’): A low-growing selection of a western native shrub. Its spreading form can help cover soil without creating a tall wall of vegetation.

Lewis’ mock orange (Philadelphus lewisii): Idaho’s state flower, this deciduous shrub has fragrant white flowers. It should be kept pruned, separated from other shrubs and free of dead interior branches.

3. Extended Zone: 30 to 100 Feet

The extended zone is intended to interrupt the path of a wildfire and prevent flames from moving into tree crowns. On steep slopes or heavily vegetated properties, defensible-space work may need to extend beyond 100 feet.

• Thin dense stands of shrubs and trees.
• Remove ladder fuels—vegetation that allows fire to climb from grasses and shrubs into tree canopies.
• Break up large areas of brush or continuous vegetation.
• Move firewood stacks at least 30 feet from buildings.
• Remove combustible debris from around sheds, fences and other outbuildings.

Hardy native and drought-tolerant plants can be used in this zone, but they still need proper spacing and maintenance.

Arrowleaf balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata): A familiar western native with a substantial taproot and good drought tolerance. Remove dry flower stalks and foliage when they begin to accumulate.

Golden currant (Ribes aureum): A drought-tolerant native shrub with yellow spring flowers and green summer foliage. It should be planted with enough space between neighboring shrubs.

Yucca (Yucca species): A low-water plant with thick leaves and a strong architectural form. Older, dry leaves should be removed because they can collect beneath the plant and become combustible.

Plant Choice Is Only Part of the Solution

Fire-resistant does not mean fireproof. Any plant can burn when it becomes dry, overgrown or filled with dead material. Placement, spacing and regular maintenance are often more important than the name of the plant.

A well-planned fire-resistant landscape should include healthy plants, open spaces, noncombustible surfaces and breaks between groups of vegetation. Choosing drought-tolerant plants can reduce water use, but those plants must still receive enough water to remain healthy and green.

By looking at the landscape as a series of zones, homeowners can take practical steps to reduce available fuel, slow the movement of fire and improve the chance that their homes will withstand wind-blown embers.

https://www.nfpa.org/education-and-research/wildfire/preparing-homes-for-wildfire

https://www.nfpa.org/news-blogs-and-articles/blogs/2025/01/06/what-is-the-wildfire-home-ignition-zone

https://objects.lib.uidaho.edu/fwres/fwres38.pdf

Pesticide Safety: More Than Just Reading the Label

Gardening can be a rewarding hobby, but the pesticides and herbicides we use to control weeds, insects, and diseases deserve careful attention. While many products available to homeowners are considered safe when used correctly, improper handling and application can increase risks to people, pets, wildlife, and the environment.

Dress for the Job, Not the Weather
It's not uncommon to see a neighbor spraying weeds in flip-flops, shorts, and a tank top on a hot summer day. While it may seem harmless, this is one of the easiest ways to increase pesticide exposure through skin contact, making bare legs, feet, arms, and hands particularly vulnerable. When applying pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides, wear chemical-resistant gloves, long pants, closed-toe shoes or boots, a long-sleeved shirt, and eye protection when recommended on the label. Even products marketed as "safe" or "natural" can cause skin irritation, eye injury, or other health concerns if handled improperly. Taking a few extra minutes to dress appropriately can significantly reduce exposure.

Pay Attention to Temperature and Weather Conditions
Many gardeners focus on what they are spraying but overlook when they are spraying. Temperature, wind, and humidity can all affect pesticide performance and safety. 

Some herbicides can become more volatile during hot weather. Volatility occurs when a product evaporates after application and moves off-target, potentially damaging nearby flowers, trees, vegetables, or neighboring landscapes. This also puts the person applying herbicide at risk of inhaling these chemicals. Applying products during cooler parts of the day and following label temperature restrictions can help reduce the risk. 

Wind is another important consideration. Even a light breeze can carry spray droplets onto desirable plants, pollinator habitat, or neighboring property. Avoid spraying during windy conditions and use coarse spray droplets when appropriate to minimize drift.

Think Beyond Your Property Line
Pesticides rarely stay exactly where we intend them to. Spray drift and runoff can affect neighboring gardens, pollinator populations, pets, and local waterways. Before spraying, consider what surrounds the target area. Are there flowering plants nearby? Is a vegetable garden downwind? Could rain wash the product into a storm drain or irrigation ditch? Taking these factors into account can help prevent unintended damage in addition to maintaining good relationships with your neighbors.

Storage and Cleanup Matter Too
Safe pesticide use doesn't end when the spraying stops. Always store products in their original containers with labels intact and keep them locked away from children and pets. Never transfer pesticides into food or beverage containers. After applying pesticides, wash your hands thoroughly, clean equipment according to label recommendations, and launder work clothing separately from other household laundry. Proper cleanup can prevent accidental exposure long after the application is complete.

A Few Extra Precautions Go a Long Way
Most pesticide-related injuries and exposures are preventable. Reading and following label directions, wearing proper protective clothing, paying attention to temperature and weather conditions, and protecting pollinators can all help make gardening safer.

The next time you see someone spraying weeds in shorts and flip-flops, remember that pesticide safety isn't about looking overly cautious, it's about reducing unnecessary exposure and protecting your health while enjoying the garden.

Getting to Know the Grasses in Idaho Lawns

Take a close look at your lawn and you may discover it is made up of more than one type of grass. In Idaho, lawns are typically a blend of cool-season grasses, with each species contributing different characteristics. Knowing what grasses make up your lawn can help you better understand how it grows and responds to changing conditions throughout the year.

The four grasses most commonly used in Idaho lawns are Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescues.

Two Basic Growth Patterns

Lawn grasses have two basic growth habits: bunch-type and spreading.

Bunch-type grasses grow in clumps and spread very slowly. If damaged, they generally do not fill in bare areas on their own.

Spreading grasses produce underground stems called rhizomes that allow them to spread and gradually fill in damaged or bare areas. This growth habit also means they may spread beyond the lawn into landscape beds or other areas.

Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is a spreading grass. It is very cold tolerant and forms a dense lawn when grown in full sunlight. Once established, it has moderate drought tolerance and spreads by rhizomes, allowing it to fill in damaged or bare areas.

Kentucky bluegrass does not perform as well in shade and may develop thatch, a layer of living and dead plant material that accumulates near the soil surface.

Identification

• Rounded, boat-shaped leaf tip
• Folded leaf with two grooves running along the midvein, giving the appearance of "train tracks"
• Medium to dark green color

Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass is a bunch-type grass. It is known for its rapid germination and good traffic tolerance, making it a common component of lawn seed mixtures. It produces little thatch because it does not spread by rhizomes.

Perennial ryegrass is generally less winter hardy than Kentucky bluegrass and is better adapted to lower elevations of southern Idaho than colder mountain regions.

Identification

• Folded leaves with a glossy underside that appears shiny in the light
• No "train track" grooves on the leaves
• Often has a reddish-purple color at the base of the stem

Tall Fescue

Tall fescue is a bunch-type grass. It has good traffic tolerance and is more cold tolerant than perennial ryegrass, although generally not as cold hardy as Kentucky bluegrass. Its deep root system contributes to its heat and drought tolerance. Tall fescue also has good shade tolerance and typically remains where it is planted because it does not spread by rhizomes.

Identification

• Broad, coarse leaf blades
• Prominent veins
• Stiff leaves with slightly rough or serrated edges

Fine Fescues

Fine fescues are a group of bunch-type grasses that are often considered lower maintenance. They are very cold tolerant, have good drought tolerance once established, and tolerate shade better than the other grasses commonly used in Idaho lawns. They also perform well in less fertile soils.

Fine fescues are not well suited for high-traffic areas and recover slowly from damage because they do not spread. During extended periods of hot weather, they may become dormant.

Identification

• Very narrow leaves folded in half, resembling a pine needle
• Fine texture
• Often has a reddish-purple color at the base of the stem

Why Are Grass Mixtures Common?

Most Idaho lawns are planted with a blend of two or more grass species. Each species contributes different characteristics, such as winter hardiness, wear tolerance, drought tolerance, or shade tolerance. This combination helps lawns perform under a variety of growing conditions found throughout Idaho.

Learning to recognize the grasses in your lawn is the first step in understanding how they grow and why they may respond differently to weather, foot traffic, or seasonal changes.

Resources

• University of Idaho Extension. Lawns. https://www.uidaho.edu/extension/horticulture/landscapes/lawn
• University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. Identifying Turfgrasses in Kentucky.https://publications.mgcafe.uky.edu/files/AGR251.pdf