Tomato Cages

It’s about this time of year when gardeners begin to get excited about growing tomatoes. Regardless of whether the tomatoes you grow will be used in sauce, salads, or soups, the plants will require proper support. Let’s talk about some options for tomato cages!

There are as many designs and material options for tomato cages as preferences for their use. Here are some things to consider about materials:

Wood
Wooden cages can be built or purchased and are relatively inexpensive, but the wood will eventually rot so you may get fewer years of use from this type of support.

Wire
Supports made of wire will last longer than wood, but sometimes they aren’t strong enough to support larger, indeterminate varieties of tomatoes.

PVC
PVC works well but sometimes takes longer to put together and the sun will eventually weaken them. Additionally, these cages tend to be bigger and bulkier.

Heavier Gauge Metal
Concrete reinforcing mesh is made of stronger metal that will last many years and you can make them very tall to accommodate tomato plants that reach for the stars. But making cages out of this material is more difficult and expensive.

Once you determine the material you prefer, it’s good to consider the design elements of your tomato cage. Pruning and harvesting your tomatoes will require spaces for reaching through with your hands or tools, so make sure your cage accommodates that. The bottom of the cage needs to be open enough to allow for easy weeding and watering. It’s also good to consider where and how you will store your tomato cages over winter. Collapsible options are convenient, but sometimes weaker than cages that take up more space and weigh more.

Once you have determined what design and material you want to use, numerous websites will give you detailed instructions on building your tomato cages and the pros and cons of the multitude of designs available.

One thing is certain, you will need to support your tomatoes to get a healthier and more abundant harvest. Enjoy!

Let my kids help in the garden? Why not?

Share your love and passion for gardening with your kids by bringing them into the garden to discover the pleasure of growing food. Gardening may be the solution for parents struggling to find ways to encourage their kids to eat a healthy and balanced diet. Allowing your child to pick fresh produce from your garden will increase their desire to eat fresh vegetables. Tomatoes warm from the sun are delicious. My son loved green onions and once harvested and ate an entire row! Fresh peas are so delicious.

 

Give them a small piece of ground that is their own, along with gardening tools and gloves. Provide instruction on how to plant seeds and plants. Show them the flowers, bugs, worms, and growing plants. Let them dig a hole and plant something!

Show your child the difference between weeds and plants, pull and cultivate weeds, water, fertilize and care for their plants. Don’t forget to show them the importance of bugs in the ecology of gardening. Observe the bees and teach them about making honey and pollination of plants.

Kids who participated in gardening projects scored higher in science achievement than those who did not. Seeing a garden grow may spark your kids to ask questions like: Why do the plants need sun? How does the plant “drink” water? Why are worms good for the plants? Why are spiders needed in the garden? The questions your kids will ask will provide plenty of subjects for discussion.

How are your overwintering bulbs: Dahlias, Cannas, Gladiolas, and more...?

Dahlia

If you are trying to overwinter bulbs (includes tubers, corms, and rhizomes) such as Dahlias, Tuberose, Amaryllis, Canna Lilies, Gladiolas - now is a great time to check them to see what condition they are in. Here are the main things to check:

#1 Check for Disease If bulbs are damaged in digging and not "cured" well while preparing them for storage, you can get a soft rot in them and it will spread from bulb to bulb, or tuber to tuber very fast. A fast way to check for this is to use your nose, the rot will give off a rather bad smell, once you detect the smell, then use your eyes to look for discolored material or material that is oozing and looks moist.

Remove all bulbs that show the discolored symptom or are soft, you should also check with a master gardener to see is there is a fungicide that you can treat the ones not affected to protect them.

Canna lily rhizomes

Canna Lily

 #2 If you have put the bulbs in an organic bedding material, check it for moisture content - if it is damp that could increase problems with soft rot.

#3 Check the bulbs to see if they are wrinkling up which shows that they are drying out. Outside air can become very dry when it warms up causing a severe problem in over wintering your live material. 

Tubers such as dahlias are very prone to not surviving the winter unless they are in bedding material. If the bedding material is too dry,  it can allow the bulbs to dry out and die, of course if it is too damp then soft rot can be a problem.

Gladiolus corms

#4 Check the temperature of the area you are storing them in. It should be less than 50 degrees F. and more than 40 degrees. It is very important that the bulbs do not freeze and if it gets too warm the bulb will start to grow and that can kill it.

For more information on growing flowers, contact your local University of Idaho Extension office!

Frost, Freeze, or Hard Frost? It's that time of year...!

 According to the National Weather Service, here are the definitions of a Frost, Freeze and Hard Freeze.

Frost:  Frost occurs when there is a solid deposition of water vapor from the air. Frost will form when solid surfaces are cooled below the dew point. An air temperature range of 33°- 36°, along with very light winds, is usually needed to initiate frost formation. At least minor damage is possible to plants. One must keep in mind that a frost is not guaranteed at these temperatures if moisture in the air is lacking and/or winds are strong.

Freeze:  Freeze occurs when the air temperature drops to 32°-or-lower. A freeze will result in significant damage to many unprotected plants, especially if the temperature remains at-or-below the freezing mark for several hours.

Hard Freeze:  Hard freeze occurs when the temperature reaches 28°-or-lower for at least a few hours. It usually means that many types of plants and most seasonal vegetation will be destroyed.

Mark Longstroth with Michigan State University Extension posted the following information explaining the differences more clearly than just a definition.

A frost is when we get a visible frost. A freeze is when the air temperature drops below freezing. Sometimes we get frost when the temperatures are above freezing and we often have a freeze without frost. It all has to do with the amount of water in the air.

At the dew point, water vapor in the air condenses on the ground and other surfaces as dew. If the dew point is below freezing, the water vapor condenses as ice, freezing as frost. So the air can be above freezing and the surface of your car (or the roof of your house) can be colder than the air and colder than freezing causing a frost even though the air temperature is above freezing. That is how we get a frost without a freeze. If the dew point is much below freezing then we can get freezing temperatures cold enough to freeze plants without any frost. This is also called a black frost, a freeze without a frost. When frozen plants thaw they have a water-soaked, black appearance as they die.

Sometimes we get a freeze under windy conditions. This is caused by the movement of a cold air mass into the area with subfreezing temperatures. These freezes are called wind freezes.

Idaho Average First Frost Date Map will give you accurate information for your county.

Steps to take to help your plants survive as long as they can.

1.    Of course cover your plants with a frost fabric or sheets or plastic.

2.    Bring what plants you can indoors

3.    Water extra with warm water

4.    Keep water running at a trickle if possible for a few days.  Be careful not to over water.

5.    Wrap the trunks of young trees.

6.    Wrap pots that cannot be moved indoors.

Your plants are counting on you...Protect them!

So, you’ve thought about composting?

Good for you! Composting is a great way to Reduce, Reuse &  Recycle. Food scraps and yard waste together currently make up more than 28 percent of what we throw away.  Composting enriches soil, helping retain moisture and suppress plant diseases and pests.  In addition composting reduces the need for chemical fertilizers and encourages the production of beneficial bacteria and fungi that break down organic matter to create humus, a rich nutrient-filled material.  Check out this website to see what the EPA says about at composting at home along with several helpful links.

Has the idea of composting and compost bins been a bit overwhelming? Do you have questions like “Will it be difficult or expensive to set up this operation?”  “What exactly should I put in my compost piles?”  “Is this project going to be labor intensive?” Do you have other questions?  Well just as we approach other aspects in our lives, if we break down the project into smaller parts the task becomes more manageable.

First thing’s first. Put your compost pile close to where you will use it. Away from drying winds, but in partial sunlight to help heat the pile. You should choose a place where water is available and adequate drainage.

 What types of materials do you need to set up composting bins? 

Well you can set your operation up as fancy or as simple as you like. An area that is about 3’x3’x3’ is a great start. You may use inexpensive materials such as wire mesh, old pallets and trash cans or buy a composting system from your local or on line retailers.  Here are two photos for examples. Consider buying a kitchen composting bin for kitchen scraps, paper towels, coffee grounds, egg shells and other things for your convenience.

What kind of material does your compost pile need?  Here is a list of safe materials.

Materials NOT to add.

Ideally, a compost pile should be made up in layers.  

The first layer should be coarse plant material to allow oxygen to circulate up through the pile. 

The second layer should be 6 to 10 inches of finer plant material such as leaves, grass clippings, and kitchen scraps.

The third layer should be a 1 inch layer of soil or manure. Consider adding 1/3 cup of nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate, blood meal, or bone meal for every 25 square feet of compost pile material. This will help the breakdown of plant material. Repeat layers as necessary. 

If you are interested in adding worms to your composing regimen check out this interesting article on “Vermicomposting” 

Next – ADD WATER.  Keep the pile moist but not waterlogged (think wet sponge).  You may need to add water in the summertime. As microorganisms begin to break down the organic material, heat is generated. Within a few days the compost pile should reach an internal temperature of 90 to 160 degrees F. You may want to cover your pile with a tarp to help control moisture and temperature.

Turn the pile over occasionally (every 2-4 weeks) this aerates the material for more rapid decomposition.

Composting is a process of several months to a year depending on size, conditions and maintenance of your pile.  The process is well worth it. 

For more information on basic backyard composting there are several university websites that offer great information, tips, tricks and thoughtful solutions to backyard composting.  Here is a link to a guidebook titled “Composting at Home.”

Canada Thistle: The Good the Bad and The Ugly

Flower

Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense) is an invasive weed found in almost every state, including Idaho. Everywhere it occurs it is problematic and in many areas is on the invasive-noxious weed list. The University of Idaho Extension has published a handbook: Idaho’s Noxious Weeds. See the link below for the full printable 9th edition. Canada thistle is listed on page 22. So how can this plant be considered “good,” “bad,” and “ugly” all at the same time? The following discussion will answer this question as well as offer methods of control.

Quick Identification

Canada thistle, also known as Creeping thistle, is an herbaceous perennial in the Asteraceae family that grows to 5 feet tall. It grows in roadsides, cultivated fields, pastures and non-croplands landscapes.

Rosette Stage

Leaf

Stem

This thistle is most known for the following characteristics: 

·    -toothed and spiny oblong leaves

·    -purplish-pink flower heads, which grow in numerous clusters and vertical and lateral to 20 feet deep and 15 feet across

Here's a video that may aid in identification.

Canada thistle – What’s Good About It?

There are some benefits to nature and for the environment.     

This thistle is beneficial to pollinating insects, butterflies, predatory insects and some moths and birds.The caterpillar of the painted lady butterfly (Vanessa cadui) feeds on the leaves. 

Canada thistle is a good food source to many songbirds which feed on the nectar and seeds including the American Goldfinch and Indigo Bunting. An extensive root system can also help break up compacted and heavy-clay soil.

                                                       

Beautiful Weed with Bad Habits

Canada thistle is hard to control and kill because of its extensive root system. It likes to form dense colonies that often crowd out and replace native grasses and other desirable plants. In pastures and range lands cattle generally will not graze near infestations of Canada thistle. It produces nitrate, which can be toxic to horses if ingested in large quantities. In cropland, Canada thistle causes extensive yield losses.

Noxious weeds are non-native, invasive plants. At first glance they may appear pretty, but invasive plants can pose serious environmental threats such as the displacement of native species, and the destruction of crop land.

Canada thistle Infestation/Colony 

Canada thistle can be said to be ugly because it is on the noxious weed list in 43 states. In fact, it is one of Idaho’s most damaging noxious weeds. The Wikipedia definition is as follows: “A noxious weed is a weed which is considered to be harmful to the environment or animals, especially one which may be subject of regulations governing attempts to control it.”

Management and Control of Canada Thistle

Management and control of Canada thistle can be very difficult. It takes repeated efforts using several methods done over several years.  A task that requires consistency!  An “Integrated Management Plan”  that combines different techniques and actions may work. 

One important principle is to stress the plant and force it into exhausting nutrients stored in the roots. The second important principle is that Canada thistle resists any stress or attack by trying to produce new shoots from any little piece of root left in the ground. Consistent efforts can bring success!

Integrated Methods

Manual, Hands-On: If you have a small infestation, digging with a garden fork or hoeing should be done when the plant is young and not flowering. But this may just encourage new shoots because most of the root(s) go deeper than the fork can reach. You can also use scissors or a hoe to cut the whole plant off at the ground level. Doing these actions repeatedly and before Canada thistle blooms will keep it from seeding and stress it enough to discourage some new plant growth.

Cultural: Canada thistle generally likes poor quality soil. Improving fertility of the soil may discourage this thistle and make it more advantageous for desired plants. The first thing to do is to have the soil tested. The results will indicate what your soil needs to improve fertility.  

Mechanical: This involves mostly mowing in lawns, gardens, croplands, and non-croplands. This should be done once a week every 3-6 weeks from mid-June to September. Mowing in the spring should be done at early bud stage and before the thistle flowers and sets seed. Mowing can be done in the fall when there is a second flush of shoots. This may be the best time to mow because plant growth is slowing down and energy is going to the roots.

Chemical: Herbicides have been used to control and eradicate Canada thistle in gardens, croplands and in non-croplands. If you are using herbicides be sure to read and follow the product label instructions including precautions and warnings. Additionally, make sure Canada thistle is listed on the product’s label.

Organic: Also known as mechanical Many people want to avoid chemicals and use more natural methods in their garden such as weed management and solarization. Solarization is a great option for home landscapes

Here's the link for the complete .pdf of Idaho's Noxious Weeds.

Now is the time to or mow, mow, mow to eradicate this non-native invasive plant! 

Protecting Bee Habitat

Is Your Morning Coffee in Danger of Extinction? Our morning coffee, tea, chocolate, fruits, vegetables, asparagus, broccoli, apples and alfalfa need pollinators to survive. One in three bites of the food we eat requires pollination. We can help save the bees by careful management of their habitat.

Plant a bee garden with different flowers including some flat and tubular flowers. Plant so that you have flowers early spring to fall. Plant flowering trees. Make a bee bath by using a small dish with rocks, twigs and water.

Consider carefully your pesticide and herbicide use (especially neonicotinoids which are particularly deadly to bees). Leave a sunny spot of bare soil for native bees. Build a bee hotel. Let a portion of your lawn go back to its roots, clover and dandelions are favorites for bees. Consider replacing grass with  flowers. Limit fall cleanup by leaving leaves and not cutting back herbaceous perennials.
Working together we can improve bee habitat in the Treasure Valley.
Learn more about other pollinators during Pollinator Week is June 22nd to 28th.

Peach Leaf Curl

I love peaches, do you love peaches? My mother, her mother and my daughter and I have all delighted in peaches and nectarines until I moved to a different climate and Peach Leaf Curl turned up on my trees. Peach leaf curl is a pathogenic fungi affecting peaches and nectarines. It is easy to identify through leaf discoloration and malformation of leaves.  It can also affect branches if not cared for and eliminated early in the life of the tree. Eventually trees will die if trees are not cared for. The goods news… Peach Leaf Curl can be treated. The Latin name of the disease is Taphrina deformans.

To Identify Peach Leaf Curl aka Taphrina deformans:

Look for puckering, and actual curling in the leaf. Leaves will have multiple hues of pink, plum, red and yellow discoloration. One will also look for thickening of leaves as leaves begin to open in spring, generally the first 2 to 3 weeks. If a tree is affected you will eventually see the fungus as the first leaves are completely formed in the spring.  Eventually leaves will turn grey and brown and either remain or fall from the tree.  Be sure to pick up and discard all affected leaves and branches, do not compost. 

How Peach Leaf Curl infects and is transmitted: The fungus overwinters on the buds and twigs of the host tree. Germination of the spores begins in spring and is dependent on rainfall. Frequent periods of rain in spring, as peach and nectarine buds are opening will lead to the infection as the fungus is already present. When rain does not occur little to no infection will occur. Spring temperatures of 40 to 65 F and .5 inches of rain fall or more are the perfect combination for Peach Leaf Curl fungus to be formed and carried to other trees by wind. The infection only occurs on new leaf and bud production. If left untreated new spores will remain on the buds and spread to twigs and branches. The cycle will repeat itself the following spring.  

How to Manage Peach Leaf Curl:

You will want to avoid excessive fertilizer and be sure to water trees correctly throughout each season.  If there is a drought be sure to water your trees to be sure they do not get stressed.  Be sure not to over water if you have excessive rainfall. One will want to water approximately 2 to 3 times per week depending on the rain and temperate in order to penetrate the soil down to 10 inches. Fungicides are available to treat Peach Leaf Curl however, timing is very important. When the tree is dormant in late fall or early spring before buds swell is the time to apply.  Be sure to read the label completely prior to any application. The fungicide you purchase should be labeled for use on edible fruit. Peach leaf curl can be prevented by purchasing resistant varieties.

There you have it, treat your trees and enjoy your peaches.

HIKE UP YOUR BIG BOYS! Tomato Cages

There are as many designs of tomato cages as there are preferences to their use. There is a variety of materials to use for tomato cages, as well. You need to consider what you want out of your tomato supports. How long do you want them to last? Wooden crates can be built or purchased and are relatively inexpensive but the wood will eventually rot so you may get fewer years of use from this type of support. Wire supports will last longer but sometimes they aren’t strong enough to support large tomato plants. PVC works well but sometimes take longer to put together and the sun will eventually weaken them. You also have to consider where you will store the cages when they aren’t being used. 

• How much room do you have? 
• Can the cage be dismantled so it will store in a smaller spot?

Now you need to consider design:

•  How easy will it be to prune and harvest your tomatoes in the cage you use? 
• Do you need the bottom open to allow for easy weeding and watering? 
• Do you need the top more open to make harvesting your ripe tomatoes easier?

Once you have determined what design and material you want to use, there are numerous sites that will give you detailed instructions on building your tomato cages and pros and cons of the multitude of designs available. 

One thing is certain, you will need to support your tomatoes to get a healthier and more abundant harvest. Enjoy!