Are Your Deicers Friendly to Plants, Animals, and the Earth?

While applying products to keep our walkways clear of snow and ice,

it’s important to remember the nearby plant life.  Deicing products, primarily composed of salt, can injure plant material, but is there a safer product to use around desirable vegetation? What about around pets? What about the run-off in our rivers and watershed?

• Salts can cause injury to trees, lawns, and shrubs
• Salt run-off can harm our groundwater
• Salts can corrode concrete
• Salts can do bodily harm to humans if handled improperly
• Salts are hard on the little paws of your four-legged friends

So you may be thinking salt is salt, right? No, not all salt is the same. Think table salts (Sodium chloride) and Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate). If you remember your days in chemistry, salts are combinations of negatively charged anions and positively charged cations. Examples are sodium chloride (table salt), potassium chloride (used as a fertilizer), and magnesium chloride (the one you see trucks spraying on our roads). The most problematic element in these salts is chloride, a corrosive ion that damages metal and concrete. Chloride is also toxic to plants.

Salt damages plants by dehydrating plant tissues, causing burns, or being toxic at high levels. While most plants have some tolerance to salt injury, repeated applications of deicing products during the winter can result in dieback or even death the following spring. Misapplications of deicers (i.e. dumping piles or using too much) can leach through the ground and into the water table or wash into the storm sewers, causing pollution. Before buying or using any product, read the label carefully and use only as directed. Here's a great publication on plant tolerance to salts. 

Here are a few of the salt products you might run into while shopping:

Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA)
It has low corrosion potential, so it’s less damaging to cars, metals, sidewalks, and plants. Notice it’s not a chloride product, the “salt” comes from the calcium-magnesium mix and the acetate replaces the chloride. Plus, it’s biodegradable! Its ice-melting properties are equivalent to traditional deicers, but the cost may be 20-30 times as expensive as sodium chloride products. These are often touted as “pet friendly”. 

Magnesium chloride
Commonly referred to as “mag chloride”. Applied as a brine, it’s the most common product used on our roadways before storms because it lowers the freezing point of soon-to-arrive precipitation. It can melt ice down to -15° F, which is a nice benefit. If applied in moderate amounts, it’s relatively safe for plants and pets. Its corrosion potential is low, as is its pollutant possibilities.

Potassium chloride
It’s expensive and not as widely used as a deicer because of the rising costs of fertilizer. This works best when temperatures are above 15° F. Because it’s most commonly used as a fertilizer, it’s relatively safe to apply near plants.

Sodium chloride
It’s the most widely available and the cheapest. It doesn’t cause corrosion to concrete and melts ice best when temperatures are in the 20s. It is the most damaging to plant material. If you use this product, use it sparingly and in small amounts!

Before using any de-icing product, clear away as much snow and ice with a shovel as possible. If heavy snow is predicted, then try to shovel more frequently. Remember, deicing products are not meant to melt all snow and ice, but rather aid you in your removal efforts. If you want to avoid adding chemicals to your landscape, then consider using sand or kitty litter. While they don’t melt snow, they can provide traction in slippery spots. Sand and kitty litter are also safe for pets and plants and can be swept up when the snow melts.

If you use deicing products near vegetative areas, then use caution with potential salt build-up and consider a soil test in the spring.  If it’s an especially snowy year, you may consider rinsing the areas next spring with clean water. Try not to scoop snow laced with deicing products directly on top of plants, especially if they are sensitive. If you have the opportunity, consider planting more salt-tolerant plants near walkways and driveways.

Your 2C Master Gardeners Facebook page is a daily source for reliable and accurate information, and Instagram, too! 

Backyard Garden Fencing

If your inner lumberjack is urging you to build that garden fence to keep wildlife and uninvited produce-pickers out, it would be wise to stop and research first. After all, fencing can be pricey and there may be regulations to follow. You might also want to determine or consider which specific herbivores are feasting and trampling, how visible your garden space is to neighbors, your budget, and any local statutes that may apply. It is also helpful to consider if your neighborhood critters are jumpers, climbers, or diggers. After review, many gardeners realize that they only need winter protection for young fruit trees. It’s worth doing your homework before building that fence.

Fencing Regulations
An understanding of fencing requirements, materials, pricing, purpose, and aesthetics varies with your city, state, and neighborhood. Check your plot map and local regulations; state, county, and municipality. In Idaho, Title 35 addresses building and removing fences and the rights and responsibilities of landowners. Idaho Code 35-101 defines a lawful fence must not be less than 4.5 feet high, and the bottom board, rail, pole, or wire must not be more than twenty inches above the ground. City and town fencing rules are usually found under building and permits, including property easements. Neighborhood HOAs will likely provide additional, detailed requirements and responsibilities.

Consider Local Wildlife
Wildlife in the garden may be more than a neighbor’s pet. In a more open field area, it might be deer, rabbits, raccoons, and/or voles. Your list of pests may also include birds.

Fence Design Considerations
The design must provide sufficient available light for your plants’ needs. Soil type matters too, especially if it’s clay. When clay is wet, fence posts wobble unless secured 2-3 feet deep in a concrete base.

Fence Height
The fence height varies based on which wildlife are most troublesome. Build a 2-3 foot high fence for cats, dogs, and rabbits to block their entry. If raccoons, opossums, voles, or squirrels are a problem, then an underground barrier is needed (usually chicken wire). These animals can also climb, thus leaving the top 18 inches of chicken wire loose will discourage these critters as the fencing will bow down when they try to climb. You could also try an electric wire along the top. If you need to inhibit larger animals, such as deer, then the fence height must be
6-8 feet. For troublesome birds, low visibility metal wires can have negative impacts if the bird collides with the wire. Avoid this by marking it with cloth strips tied to the wire. Bird netting placed over the fenced area, using PVC pipes to support, is an option that prevents flying animals’ entry. 

Fence Materials
Materials can include poultry fencing, chain link, wood, woven wire, and more. Wood choices are varied, and the longest lasting are treated. This is recommended, especially for the posts. Treated wood has a life expectancy of 15-30 years depending on the type of wood you choose. Fences designed in horizontal lines will handle wind gusts more easily than a vertical design. When it comes to cost, wood, iron, and electric are more expensive than chain link, woven wire, or poultry fencing. You may be able to install a wood fence yourself. This option can also be good for a bit of privacy from passersby and neighbors. Electric fencing is

normally used to contain livestock but can be successful for pet containment and denying some animals entry. Just add some cloth flags or smooth PVC on the top wire for a visual warning to birds and humans. Barbed wire is often used in-between the top and bottom electric wires. With any of these fencing options, should you have a problem with the “diggers”, about 3 inches of buried chicken wire under the fence row should keep those critters out. Select a fencing that meets the broadest variety of possible avian and animal invaders. Of course, don’t forget to plan for at least one gate to enter the garden area.

Tree Guards
Finally, don’t forget tree guards if your fruit trees or other trees and shrubs are afflicted by girdling, fresh bud nipping, or leaf eating. Creating a physical barrier is the best overall prevention strategy. Surround the tree with a sturdy fence in the fall, after clearing mulch and grass, to prevent voles and mice. Bury the bottom of the fencing in the soil and set it to at least 18-24 inches in height above an anticipated snow line. A bit of planning and research protects your garden and wildlife for years to come.

Indoor Herbs for Winter Cooking

If you love using fresh herbs in your kitchen year-round, consider growing your own herbs inside your home. Some of the best winter meals are made with the snip of a fresh branch grown in your windowsill!

For an indoor culinary garden, consider growing garlic, chives, basil, oregano, parsley, sage, rosemary or thyme. If you want to grow a tea garden you may want to plant spearmint, peppermint, lemon balm, lemon verbena, chamomile or catnip.

To start your indoor herbs, you can either buy pre-started herbs, or you can start from seeds. Either way works, but if you prefer more unique herbs, then starting from seed may be your only option.

If you decide to grow herbs that have already been started, then make sure the container has good drainage and is large enough for the plant to grow. If the container is too small, simply choose a different pot and transplant it. Be sure to water the plants regularly. 

Light is very important, so place your herbs in a sunny location that receives at least half a day of sun. New information about indoor lighting has made it easier for the home gardeners. Those labeled "cool white" work well. "Warm white" and "Daylight" may also work. Lamps tailored to a plant's needs are also available. 

A bonus to indoor herb gardens is that they can be moved outside after the threat of frost passes. Simply place your herb pots outdoors and enjoy fresh herbs all year round.

For more information on starting seeds the University of Idaho Extension provides this excellent resource: Start Seeds Indoor With Success 

Harvesting & Storing Potatoes for Winter Eating!

 Potatoes are vegetables that are easy to grow and also store well over winter if handled properly. The time between planting and harvesting of mid-season and late varieties of potatoes typically ranges from 90 to 120 days. Once harvested, Idaho potatoes require careful harvesting and storage to ensure they remain fresh and flavorful through the winter months. Here’s a guide to help you through the process.

Harvesting Potatoes
Typically, Idaho potatoes are ready for harvest about 2-3 weeks after the plants have died back. Look for yellowing leaves and stems. Use a pitchfork or shovel to gently lift the tubers from the soil. Be cautious to avoid piercing the potatoes, as this can lead to rot during storage. After harvesting, brush off any excess soil but avoid washing them. Moisture can encourage rot, so it’s best to keep them dry until you’re ready to store.

Storing Potatoes (click here to watch a video)
Before storage, allow your potatoes to cure in a dark, cool place (around 45-60°F) for about 1-2 weeks. This helps to heal any cuts and toughens their skin. Potatoes should be stored in a dark, well-ventilated area, ideally at temperatures between 35-40°F. A root cellar, basement, or a cool garage works well. Avoid exposure to light, which can cause greening and bitterness. Use burlap sacks, cardboard boxes, or wooden crates to store your potatoes. Avoid plastic bags, as they trap moisture and can lead to spoilage. Periodically inspect your stored potatoes. Remove any that show signs of spoilage to prevent the spread to healthy ones.

With the right care, you can enjoy the taste of potatoes long after the harvest season. By following these tips for harvesting and storing, you’ll enjoy your garden’s bounty throughout the winter months.

Frost to Hard Freeze: A Gardener’s Guide to Surviving the Fall Chill

As the chill of autumn settles in, it’s crucial to understand the differences between frost, freeze, and hard freeze to protect your precious plants.

Frost: Frost appears when water vapor in the air deposits as ice on solid surfaces. This typically happens when temperatures dip between 33°F and 36°F, especially with light winds. While frost may only cause minor damage, it’s important to note that if the air is dry or the winds are strong, frost can be unpredictable. Mark Longstroth from Michigan State University Extension explains, “A frost is when you see a visible layer of ice, while a freeze is simply when temperatures drop below freezing.” Sometimes, you might even spot frost while the air remains above freezing due to colder surfaces, like your car or roof.

Freeze: A freeze occurs when temperatures drop to 32°F or lower. This can lead to significant damage for many unprotected plants, especially if the freeze lingers for several hours. 

Hard Freeze: When temperatures plunge to 28°F or lower for a few hours, we experience a hard freeze. Unfortunately, this often means the end for many plants and seasonal vegetation.

Black Frost: This occurs when temperatures drop low enough to freeze plants without visible frost. Frozen plants can take on a sad, water-soaked black appearance as they perish.

Wind Freeze: A cold air mass can sweep in, causing temperatures to plummet, even with winds at play.

For gardeners who want to extend the life of their garden, here are some simple actions you can take:

1. Cover your plants. Use frost fabric, sheets, or plastic to shield your plants.

2. Water wisely by giving your plants a drink with warm water to help them stay resilient.

3. Let water run at a gentle trickle for a few days to maintain moisture—just don’t overdo it!
4. Wrap young tree trunks to help insulate them against cold temperatures, preventing freeze damage and maintaining healthier bark during harsh winter conditions.
5. Overwinter potted plants by moving them indoors to a cool, bright location or using a cold frame for protection. Insulate pots with mulch or wraps, group them together for a microclimate, and remember to adjust your watering schedule to prevent rot during the colder months.

For specific timing, check the Idaho Average First Frost Date Map for accurate information tailored to your county.

By taking these steps, you can help your plants brave the chilly weather and thrive until spring returns. Protect your green friends, and enjoy a flourishing garden year-round!

Frogs and Toads in Our Backyard Ecosystems

Have you ever noticed frogs and toads in your garden? Has their population on your property increased or decreased over the years? Frogs and toads play an important role in many ecosystems. Gardeners can take steps to build habitat for frogs which will not only benefit their garden but other species as well.

Frogs control pest populations that carry disease and damage crops. As tadpoles, frogs feed on mosquito larvae. When they develop into frogs, they eat mosquitos and other flying pests. Frogs are considered a keystone species which means they consume many other things, are consumed by other things in the food web, or are linked to other species in various ways. Mammals, birds, insects, and invertebrates are linked to each other within the ecosystem food web by frogs. 

Declining numbers of frogs can adversely affect the food web but home gardeners can take steps to protect their habitats by making simple modifications to their property and garden areas. For example, planting low-lying shrubs or plants will allow frogs to feed while being protected. Leaving native plants on stream banks and protecting wetland areas will improve and, in some cases, increase their available habitat. Also consider making brush piles for amphibians to hide in and installing fishless ponds where amphibians can mate, lay eggs, and develop.

Limiting animal and human access to flowing or contained bodies of water and the surrounding wet habitat, called riparian zones, can also support frog populations. Livestock can contribute to the loss of stream or pondside habitat, so keeping them away can be of great benefit. Cats or other pets who prey on frogs can be kept indoors, especially at night when frogs are feeding. Human-caused pollution on a large scale also affects the ability of frogs to thrive. Environmental temperature changes affect their ability to absorb oxygen and maintain mortality rates in reproduction.

Frogs, toads and other amphibians often indicate the overall health of an ecosystem. If frogs are present, it's likely many factors including pollution, interspecies predation, oxygen levels, etc., are in balance. When amphibians disappear, it's time to figure out what's wrong. Protecting frog and toad habitat will benefit your garden and make a difference to many species in the ecosystem.

Jams, Jellies, Preserves, Marmalades - Yummy!

Fresh, spreadable fruit in the form of jam, jelly, preserves,
or marmalade, might possibly be summer's sweetest reward. The best part is that they are easy to make and can be enjoyed long after you put your garden to bed. So, what is the difference between each of these spreadable options? 

Before we dive in, it helps to know that there are two main factors that turn fruit into a thick, spreadable texture: heat (from cooking) and pectin. When fruit is heated, it will lose liquid, causing the fruit to reduce to a firmer state. Pectin is naturally-occurring in fruit and happens to also make fruit thicken when cooked. However, not all fruit contains enough pectin to reach a firm texture, so many spreadable fruit recipes call for additional pectin.

Jelly:
Jelly is the firmest and clearest of the sweet, spreadable options. The fruit is cooked and strained so only the juice ends up in the final product. Jelly is so firm that you could turn the jar over and slide the jelly out in one solid piece.

Jam:
Jam is a chunkier version of jelly. Jam has more fruit pieces and is slightly looser in texture. Chopped or pureed fruit is cooked with sugar, so pieces of fruit end up in the final product. Jams are not clear and not solid like their jelly cousin. Here's a video for strawberry freezer jam!

Preserves:
Preserves are like jam but contain more and bigger pieces of fruit. Preserves have the least gel-like consistency. They are great for serving with cheeses and meat dishes.

Marmalade:
Marmalade is a preserve, but it is made only with citrus. The whole fruit, rind and all, create a bitter-sweet spreadable delight. Lemon, orange, and grapefruit make great marmalades. Marmalades are aromatic with complex flavors and oils from the citrus peels.

Jam, jelly, preserves, and marmalade start out almost the same, but take different forms depending on how they are processed. Whether you like your fruit a spreadable solid, with small pieces of fruit, with large pieces of fruit, or you want the complex flavors of citrus, there is always something good you can choose to put on your toast. 

Gardener Guide to Saving Seeds

Saving seeds is sustainable and saves money. It also helps strengthen plants as they adapt to local conditions and it preserves your favorite heirloom varieties. Many gardeners love to share or swap their seeds with other gardeners. In this light, we can learn a lot about seed saving from Small-Scale Market Gardening (SMG), which is all about keeping things sustainable, encouraging variety, space-saving, and sharing among gardeners. This process helps plants become stronger and better suited to their local environment.

How to Save Seeds 
Start by selecting healthy, non-hybrid plants. Allow fruits and vegetables to mature fully on the plant before harvesting. Wet seeds, like tomatoes, should be separated from the fruit, rinsed, fermented, and then dried. Fermenting helps remove the gelatinous coating that sometimes inhibits germination. Simply put seeds in water for a few days until a layer of mold forms, which helps break down the coating. After fermentation, rinse the seeds well and dry them. Dry seeds, like beans and lettuce, need to be removed from pods, separated from chaff, and dried. Store dried seeds in labeled envelopes or airtight containers in a cool, dry place to maintain their viability. If you want to be especially crafty, you can use pre-made templates to make your own seed packets!

Concerns About GMO Seeds
Home gardeners sometimes worry about exchanging seed with other gardeners because they don't want GMO contamination. GMOs are not likely to be found in your home garden because no retailer sells genetically engineered seeds to home gardeners. GMO crops are expensive and commercial farmers are required to sign a contract that protects the patented technology. These companies do not sell GM-crops to the home garden market or to garden centers.

The Best Plants for Beginners

• Tomatoes & Peppers are self-pollinating and easy to dry.
• Beans & Peas should be allowed to dry in their pods before you harvest them.
• Lettuce produces abundant seeds and is easy to grow.

Other Things to Consider
Be sure to prevent cross-pollination by isolating certain plants like squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, and corn to maintain pure seed varieties. 

Test germination by sprouting a few seeds before planting. This can be done indoors before the season starts. It is also a good idea to write the date on your seed envelopes and use the freshest seeds first.

By practicing these techniques, you’ll cultivate stronger plants and preserve valuable varieties for the future. Happy seed saving!

Rush Skeletonweed - An Idaho Noxious Weed

 A weed is considered “noxious” when it is harmful to the environment or animals. According to Idaho's Noxious Weeds booklet, Rush Skeletonweed (Chondrilla juncea) is one of the 69 plants designated as a noxious weed by Idaho’s Department of Agriculture. Equipped with knowledge, together we can help curb the spread of this harmful plant in Idaho.

What is Rush skeletonweed?
Rush Skeletonweed is an invasive, non-native, long-lived biennial or perennial that is very persistent, taking years for established colonies to be eradicated.  It is not toxic, being palatable for most livestock, especially sheep and goats (only goats will eat the wiry stems). These stems are so tough that they can interfere with harvesting equipment, making them a bane for farmers raising grain crops. In the West, it is estimated that over 6 million acres are infested with Rush Skeletonweed, and those numbers are likely to continue to grow.

Rush Skeletonweed germinates or re-sprouts in the fall and early spring as a rosette (looking very similar to young dandelions), actively growing through the spring and early summer.  All the while it is establishing a formidable root system that can be 7’ deep with many side shoots, which can form future rosettes. In early summer, as the stem develops the leaves of the rosettes begin to die back. If it is allowed to progress to this point, it cannot be killed chemically.

The small bright yellow flowers produce ripe seeds, without fertilization, in a few days.  These seeds can then be dispersed by the wind miles away. An established, vigorous plant can produce an average of 20,000 seeds each year.

Rush Skeletonweed prefers well-drained, rocky, or sandy-textured soils in climates that are cold in winter, warm in summer, and wet early in the year. Areas that have been disturbed, such as roadsides, empty urban lots, burn scars, logging sites, cultivated fields, droughty areas, and areas that have been overgrazed, seem to be favorable sites. South and central Idaho is currently the epicenter of the infestation, with wheat-growing regions and rangelands being particularly hard hit

.
How can we mitigate this noxious weed?
First, it helps to know that eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a long-term project (possibly seven years or longer), so be patient.

Spraying rosettes with herbicides both in fall and winter is preferable, and spring treatment is also effective. Unfortunately, 2,4-D, and a round-up type product won’t do the job.

Hand pulling is effective if done when seedlings are less than 5 weeks old.  Once the roots have developed, mark the spot, and return periodically to re-dig because 2 or more roots will likely re-grow in the same spot. This method is preferred in your vegetable garden or other areas where you cannot use chemicals.

As mentioned above, grazing is effective, but must be continuous or you will end up with more rosettes or more flowering stems. Controlling and eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a very serious issue. If you have it on your property, take proactive measures to ensure it does not flourish and spread.

Protect your plants from Powdery Mildew

Figure 1: PM on Tomato

 Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects a wide variety of plants. The affected plants have a dusted-with-flour appearance with white to gray powdery spots on the surface of leaves and fruits (Fig 1). It causes cosmetic damage, and defoliation and decreases the quantity and quality of fruit (Fig. 2).

Disease and Development 
There are many different species of (Powdery Mildew) fungi. Most species only attack specific plants in the same or closely related plant families.

Figure 3: PM on roses

For example, powdery mildew on roses does not spread to grapes.

Powdery Mildew fungi overwinter in buds, twigs, bark, and plant debris. Their spores are carried by wind to new hosts. Low relative humidity during the day favors spore dispersal.

Fig 2: PM on grapes

The optimum conditions for spores to germinate are temperatures between 68 to 77°F and high relative humidity (> 70%). Powdery Mildew spores can germinate in the absence of water and can infect in arid conditions (40% humidity). Water on plant surfaces can kill or inhibit germination. Spores and fungal growth are sensitive to extreme heat (above 90°F) and direct sunlight. Shady conditions are favorable for PM development.

Management
The disease triangle is a useful tool to understand and manage diseases like Powdery Mildew (Fig. 3). The severity of Powdery Mildew infections is a function of the presence of the pathogen, the host susceptibility, and the environment. Powdery Mildew can be managed by good cultural practices.   

Fig 3: The Disease Triangle

The best control is to plant only resistant species or cultivars. Avoid excess fertilizer since plants with abundant succulent tissues are more susceptible to infection. The fungi can be eliminated by removing and burning all infected plant tissues and debris. Tools must be disinfected after use.

Another good control method is making environmental conditions less favorable for the disease. Avoid dense canopies by proper plant spacing and pruning to provide good air circulation, reduce humidity and increase sunlight penetration. Plants should not be planted in poorly drained soils or shady damp areas.

Overhead watering of the leaves during the day and when humidity is low can reduce infection. Water washes spores off the plant and inhibits its germination. This control method is not recommended for vegetables since it may contribute to other pest problems.

Powdery Mildew seldom needs chemical control in residential plantings, but it may be warranted in commercial plantings of susceptible crops like grapes and cucurbits. Chemicals are most effective when combined with cultural control. They should be applied before the disease symptoms appear. Further spread may be stopped or slowed with chemical treatment. Materials like horticultural oil or neem oils have a low environmental impact. Apply every 7 to 14 days throughout the season. Do not apply to drought-stress plants when the air temperature is above 85° nor within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray. Wettable sulfur is very effective in preventing infection. Like oil application, it should not be applied when the air temperature is over 90° nor within 2 weeks of an oil application.

Edible Native Landscaping - “Paleo” in Your Own Backyard

Curating your home landscape or garden connects you with a tradition thousands of years old in which humans and plants share a special relationship. Native Shoshone people living nomadic lifestyles began expanding into the area now designated as Idaho as early as 4,000 years ago, and the principle diets of these hunter-gatherers included many edible plants, not to mention the many practical and symbolic uses of plant material. For thousands of years (until contact with Westerners), the indigenous peoples lived off a diet sourced by wild (unfarmed) plants. These wild native plants are still around today, and are ecologically adapted to the Idaho climate and its diverse plant hardiness zones.

Here is a sampling of plants gathered by Shoshone Native Americans for sustenance:

• 

  Arrowleaf Balsamroot

  Camas Bulb (Camassia quamash)
• Wild Onion
• Bitterroot
• Arrowleaf Balsamroot
• Tobacco Root
• Serviceberry
• Chokecherries

• 

  Bitterroot

  Currant
• Pine nuts
• Seeds from Junegrass, Bluebunch Wheatgrass, Thickspike Wheatgrass, and Nevada Bluegrass

Berries were ground and mixed along with hunted meats to form nutritional patties, called pemmican, which were preserved chemically by the acidic berries. Additionally, native tribes in Idaho such as the Nimi’ipuu (Nez Perce) collected:

• 

  Kouse

  Wild Carrot
• Kouse (also called “Biscuit Root” by non-native travelers)
• Sunflowers
• Huckleberries
• Wild Rhubarb

The list could continue, and the above links will give more information about each type of plant. But which ones would grow well in your garden? A good place to start collecting some tips is at the Idaho Native Plant Society resource website. Specifically, the publication Landscaping with Native Plants of the Intermountain Region from the BLM which contains detailed notes and descriptions of nearly all of the edible plants from the above list. The guides include landscape uses and notes, regional considerations, availability, and pollinator attractiveness. Additionally, the two guides specify which of the plants are drought tolerant, how large they grow, how much water and sunlight they need, when they flower, and what color they bloom. 

If there aren’t already enough reasons to focus your landscaping efforts on native plants, the fact that these selected plants have been used in antiquity up to the present because of their important nutritional value to humans gives one more benefit to carefully designing your landscape with location-appropriate plants. The provided references will get you started, and remember also to keep learning along with archeologists and ethnobotanists about how people and plants have survived by cooperating for thousands of years. 

How to Water Your Garden

Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.

Overhead Sprinkler

Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.

There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.

Drip System

Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.

You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.

As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.

Soaker Hose

Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.

A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.

You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method. The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!

Three Bumble Bees of Idaho

Bees are vital to Idaho's ecosystems and agricultural economy, serving as key pollinators for crops, wild plants, and native vegetation. The Treasure Valley, with its fertile soils and ideal climate, is home to both wild and managed bee populations that play an essential role in maintaining biodiversity and ensuring agricultural productivity. From honeybees to native species, these pollinators are crucial for supporting crops such as fruits, vegetables, and seeds, making them indispensable, to the region's farmers and gardeners. Protecting and encouraging healthy bee populations is vital not only for Idaho’s agricultural success but also for preserving its diverse natural habitats.

Idaho's landscapes host a variety of bee species. Three of the over twenty species of bumble bees that have been observed in various regions of Idaho on a myriad of plants are summarized below.

Red-Belted Bumble Bee
(Bombus rufocinctus)
This beauty thrives in higher elevations, such as the Northern Rockies and Idaho Batholith, foraging on plants like lupines, sweet clover, and knapweed. It is a significant pollinator in meadows, forests, and shrublands.
 

Hunt’s Bumble Bee 
(Bombus huntii)

The Hunt’s Bumble Bee is highly adaptable, thriving in diverse habitats such as riparian zones and shrublands, often visiting flowers like teasel and lupine.
 

Morrison Bumble Bee 
(Bombus morrisoni)

This Bumble Bee is found in grasslands, sagebrush steppes, and even urban parks, where it pollinates a wide range of flowering plants including milkweed, thistle and bee balm. The Morrison Bumble Bee population has been in decline in recent years and the monitoring of it is of particular interest. 

Supporting Idaho’s bee populations requires community action. Planting native flowers, creating pollinator gardens, reducing pesticide use, and preserving wild habitats are essential steps to help bees thrive. Small efforts, like planting diverse flowers in urban areas or leaving natural spaces untouched, can significantly impact the survival of these pollinators. By fostering environments that support healthy bee populations, we not only contribute to agricultural productivity but also sustain the natural beauty and biodiversity of Idaho. For more information on creating pollinator-friendly spaces, visit Creating Bee Habitat in Idaho or Planting a Bee Garden. Together, we can ensure that Idaho’s bees—and the ecosystems they support—thrive for generations to come.

Billbugs Cause Major Damage to Lawns (Turf) in the Treasure Valley

Billbugs are small, snouted beetles that belong to the family Curculionidae and are considered to be major pests to lawns in the Treasure Valley. These pests are known for causing significant damage to turf grass and lawns, leading to unsightly brown patches and reduced aesthetic appeal. In this blog, we will discuss what billbugs are, their impact on turf grass, and how to control them using integrated pest management (IPM) methods.

What Are Billbugs?
Billbugs are cylindrical beetles that range in size from 3 to 10 millimeters in length, depending upon life stage. As adults, they have a hard exoskeleton and are usually brown or black in color. Their snout, which is often longer than their body, is used for boring into plant stems. Billbugs undergo a complete metamorphosis, passing through the egg, larval, pupal, and adult stages, with a one-year life cycle (Oregon State University Extension, 2018). The majority of damage from billbugs occurs during the larval stage, as they feed on stems, rhizomes, and crowns, typically just below the soil surface. Damage from billbugs is typically visible in late June or early July each year.

In the Treasure Valley of Idaho, billbugs are particularly abundant in lawns, parks, and golf courses. They feed on the stems and roots of turf grass, causing significant damage to the plant's ability to absorb water and nutrients. This feeding can lead to large areas of grass dying, creating unsightly brown patches that are not only aesthetically unpleasing but also difficult to repair (Idaho State University Extension, 2017).

Impact of Billbugs

The impact of billbugs on turf grass can be significant. In addition to the unsightly brown patches, Billbugs can reduce the health of the grass, leading to reduced aesthetic appeal and causing economic losses for lawn owners (Idaho State University Extension, 2017).

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
Integrated pest management (IPM) is a comprehensive approach to managing billbug infestations that involves multiple control methods. This strategy utilizes cultural, biological, and chemical control methods to promote the health of the turf and prevent billbug damage. Cultural control methods involve selecting the proper grass varieties that exhibit resistance to billbug feeding. Several cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass, such as ‘Park’, ‘Arista’, and ‘NuDwarf’, have been proven to exhibit resistance to billbug feeding. Additionally, endophyte-enhanced ryegrasses and fescues display high resistance to billbug feeding (University of Utah). IPM of Billbugs also includes implementing proper irrigation, fertilization, and mowing practices to maintain healthy turf. Biological control methods may involve releasing beneficial insects that feed on billbugs to control their population. Several nonchemical bio-pesticides exist, including purchasing and applying predatory nematodes (Stinernema & Heterorhabditis spp.), as well as a fungal organism (Beauveria bassiana) that are listed and registered for control of billbug larvae in lawns. When necessary, insecticides can be used to control billbugs, but should be used with caution to avoid harming beneficial insects and creating insecticide-resistant billbug populations (The University of Idaho Extension, 2017). 

Properly implemented IPM practices can effectively manage billbugs and maintain healthy turf.