Why January Is a Wonderful Time to Start Native Perennials from Seed

Starting seeds in step with the season

In Idaho, winter has a rhythm all its own. The garden falls quiet, the soil freezes, and everything above ground seems to rest. But beneath that calm, winter is quietly preparing the landscape for spring. Many of the region’s native perennials depend on that seasonal shift, waiting for winter’s cues before they begin to grow.

That’s why January is such a fitting moment to start native seeds. The timing matches the natural cycle these plants evolved with, and the cold months do much of the work that gardeners would otherwise need to recreate indoors.

Winter gives native seeds what they’re waiting for

Most native perennials require a period of cold, moist stratification—a long stretch of winter conditions that signals it’s safe to germinate when spring arrives. January consistently delivers the combination of cold, light moisture, and freeze–thaw cycles needed for this process.

While winter naturally provides these conditions, some Idaho winters bring long dry spells with very little snow. In those years, outdoor pots may dry more than expected. A quick check every couple of weeks is enough; if the soil surface looks completely dry, a light watering keeps stratification on track. The goal is moisture, not saturation—just enough to maintain a slightly damp environment.

Instead of managing refrigeration or carefully timing artificial cold periods, native seeds can be sown in pots, placed outdoors, and allowed to experience the winter they expect. It’s a simple, climate-aligned approach that mirrors natural patterns.

Outdoor pots make the process simple and reliable

Small nursery pots or cell trays filled with seed-starting mix create an ideal environment for winter stratification. Seeds pressed gently into the surface receive light, moisture, and winter temperature swings without becoming waterlogged. After a single watering to settle the mix, the pots can be placed outdoors where they will catch the weather but remain protected from wind.

This method stays tidy, reduces maintenance, and performs consistently well in the Intermountain West.

Some gardeners also use repurposed containers like milk jugs or clear clamshells.
These can work for certain species as long as moisture and temperature are monitored, especially on sunny winter days.

Freeze–thaw cycles help the seeds awaken

Although winter feels harsh to humans, native seeds rely on the push and pull of freezing and thawing to soften tough seed coats and trigger internal germination signals. Snowmelt or periodic winter moisture provides gentle, steady hydration. As late winter approaches, temperatures warm just enough to cue the seeds that spring is on its way.

Nature handles a process that is difficult to duplicate indoors.

January sowing leads to stronger, more resilient plants

By the time the soil warms in spring, seedlings that began their journey in January are often:

• deeper-rooted
• sturdier and more compact
• better adapted to Idaho’s dry summers
• more tolerant of the transplanting process

Because many natives do not bloom the first year, this early start supports healthier plants heading into their second season.

Direct sowing works too — when the soil allows

Some natives thrive when sown directly into the ground. However, frozen January soil isn’t workable in most parts of Idaho. When a natural thaw arrives—usually in late February or early March—direct sowing becomes an excellent option for species such as:

• common yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
  
• blanketflower (Gaillardia aristata)
• penstemons (Penstemon spp.)
• Idaho fescue (Festuca idahoensis)
• blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis)

Until then, outdoor pots remain the most dependable winter method.

Cold frames and unheated greenhouses offer gentle protection

Cold frames and unheated greenhouses support winter stratification while offering mild protection from wind and wildlife. They moderate sudden warm spells and help maintain even moisture. As long as no heat is added, seeds receive the natural chill required for proper germination.

Native seeds well-suited to a January start

Wildflowers & Forbs

• 
  Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus)
  

• Palmer’s penstemon (Penstemon palmeri)
• Eaton’s penstemon (Penstemon eatonii)
• Narrow-leaf coneflower (Echinacea angustifolia)
• Pale purple coneflower (Echinacea pallida)
• Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
• Blanketflower (Gaillardia aristata)
  
• Showy aster (Eurybia spectabilis)
• Smooth aster (Symphyotrichum laeve)
  
• Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)
• Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)
• Prairie smoke (Geum triflorum)
• Lupine (Lupinus spp.)

Native Grasses

• Blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis)
• Idaho fescue (Festuca idahoensis)
• Sandberg bluegrass (Poa secunda)
• 
  Indian ricegrass (Achnatherum hymenoides)

Native Shrubs

• Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus)
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)
• Woods’ rose (Rosa woodsii)
• Rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosa / Chrysothamnus nauseosus)

A peaceful January task with a rewarding spring payoff

There is something grounding about sowing native seeds while the landscape rests under winter’s quiet blanket. No urgency, no rush—just a small, hopeful task offered to the season these plants know best.

When seedlings emerge in early spring, right on cue, it becomes clear how well a January start aligns with the natural rhythm of Idaho’s native landscape. Winter sets the stage, and gardeners simply support the process.

Further reading —

https://extension.psu.edu/starting-seeds-in-winter

https://www.hortmag.com/smart-gardening/seed-starting-tips-plus-how-to-care-for-seedlings-

https://www.hortmag.com/smart-gardening/starting-perennial-seeds

https://www.xerces.org/publications/plant-lists

How to Water Your Garden

Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.

Overhead Sprinkler

Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.

There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.

Drip System

Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.

You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.

As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.

Soaker Hose

Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.

A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.

You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method. The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!

It's time to check your overwintering bulbs

If you are trying to overwinter bulbs (includes tubers, corms, and rhizomes) such as Dahlias, Tuberose, Amaryllis, Canna Lilies, Gladiolas - now is a great time to check them to see what condition they are in. Here are the main things to check:

#1 Check for Disease If bulbs are damaged in digging and not "cured" well while preparing them for storage, you can get a soft rot in them and it will spread from bulb to bulb, or tuber to tuber very fast. A fast way to check for this is to use your nose, the rot will give off a rather bad smell, once you detect the smell, then use your eyes to look for discolored material or material that is oozing and looks moist. Remove all bulbs that show the discolored symptom or are soft, you should also check with a master gardener to see is there is a fungicide that you can treat the ones not affected to protect them.

Canna lily rhizomes

Canna Lily

 #2 If you have put the bulbs in an organic bedding material, check it for moisture content - if it is damp that could increase problems with soft rot.

#3 Check the bulbs to see if they are wrinkling up which shows that they are drying out. Outside air can become very dry when it warms up causing a severe problem in over wintering your live material. 
Tubers such as dahlias are very prone to not surviving the winter unless they are in bedding material. If the bedding material is too dry,  it can allow the bulbs to dry out and die, of course if it is too damp then soft rot can be a problem. Newspaper works well for canna rhizomes as long as crinkled for good air space.

Gladiolus 

Gladiolus corms

#4 Check the temperature of the area you are storing them in. It should be less than 50 degrees F. and more than 40 degrees. It is very important that the bulbs do not freeze and if it gets too warm the bulb will start to grow and that can kill it. 

  

 Here's to beautiful blooms this coming year!

Potato harvest time! How do you like them?

One of my favorite vegetables is the humble and oh so delicious potato!  Watch this video for tips on when and how to harvest. You can harvest young potatoes when the vines are still green - or wait until the vines die for final harvest...or both!  

Here's an article about how to have a successful potato garden. Also there are many ways to store and then enjoy throughout the seasons.

My family enjoys it mashed, cubed, roasted, shredded...I don't think there is a potato preparation they would turn down. One of the simplest - and most delicious - is oven roasted potatoes. Easy to prepare and oh so delicious!

Roasted potatoes in a convection oven

3-4 large potatoes, cubed

1 tablespoon of olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

dried or fresh herbs (optional). We love Rosemary or Thyme

Directions: add your cubed potatoes to a large bowl.  Pour the olive oil over the potatoes and then toss them until they are evenly coated.  Evenly coat them with salt and pepper.  

Put them on a rack (we use a cooling rack that is oven safe) on a cookie sheet. Place in a convection oven at 400 degrees for 35-40 minutes or until the edges of the potatoes are crisp and brown.

Remove from oven, and enjoy!  Find more delicious potato recipes here!

How to Water Your Garden

Signs of spring are all around and the patch of dirt you put to bed last fall is ready to plant! Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.

Overhead Sprinkler

Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.

There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.

Drip System

Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.

You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.

As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large

garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.

Soaker Hose

Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.

A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.

You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method. 

The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!

How are your overwintering bulbs: Dahlias, Cannas, Gladiolas, and more...?

Dahlia

If you are trying to overwinter bulbs (includes tubers, corms, and rhizomes) such as Dahlias, Tuberose, Amaryllis, Canna Lilies, Gladiolas - now is a great time to check them to see what condition they are in. Here are the main things to check:

#1 Check for Disease If bulbs are damaged in digging and not "cured" well while preparing them for storage, you can get a soft rot in them and it will spread from bulb to bulb, or tuber to tuber very fast. A fast way to check for this is to use your nose, the rot will give off a rather bad smell, once you detect the smell, then use your eyes to look for discolored material or material that is oozing and looks moist.

Remove all bulbs that show the discolored symptom or are soft, you should also check with a master gardener to see is there is a fungicide that you can treat the ones not affected to protect them.

Canna lily rhizomes

Canna Lily

 #2 If you have put the bulbs in an organic bedding material, check it for moisture content - if it is damp that could increase problems with soft rot.

#3 Check the bulbs to see if they are wrinkling up which shows that they are drying out. Outside air can become very dry when it warms up causing a severe problem in over wintering your live material. 

Tubers such as dahlias are very prone to not surviving the winter unless they are in bedding material. If the bedding material is too dry,  it can allow the bulbs to dry out and die, of course if it is too damp then soft rot can be a problem.

Gladiolus corms

#4 Check the temperature of the area you are storing them in. It should be less than 50 degrees F. and more than 40 degrees. It is very important that the bulbs do not freeze and if it gets too warm the bulb will start to grow and that can kill it.

For more information on growing flowers, contact your local University of Idaho Extension office!