Showing posts with label lawns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lawns. Show all posts

Friday, July 18, 2025

Managing Heat Stress in Idaho Gardens

          
As Idaho summer heats up and dries out, gardeners across the state are feeling it—wilting veggies, crispy lawns, and blooms that barely last a day. Even the best-tended gardens can struggle in a heatwave. Knowing the signs of heat stress and how to respond can help you keep things growing through the toughest stretch of summer.

What Is Heat Stress?

When temperatures climb high enough, plants can’t cool themselves efficiently through transpiration. Moisture evaporates faster than roots can replace it. To conserve water, plants close their stomata—but that slows growth, reduces yield, and weakens the plant. Long stretches of heat can cause real damage, and in some cases, even kill the plant.

Vegetable Gardens: First to Feel the Heat

Vegetables, especially those in full sun or shallow soils, are usually the first to suffer.

Common Signs:

  • Wilting at midday, even when the soil is moist

  • Blossoms dropping from tomatoes, peppers, beans, and squash

  • Curling or rolling leaves (especially on tomatoes and corn)

  • Sunscald on fruit and foliage
  • Bolting in cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, cilantro, and broccoli

When days top 94–96°F and nights stay above 70–75°F, tomato blossoms may drop and pollination can fail. Beans and peppers are even more heat-sensitive—blossoms can drop when temps reach the low 90s.

Tips to Beat the Heat:

  • Water early and deeply so roots get moisture before the heat peaks
  • Mulch with straw, shredded leaves, or compost to keep soil cool

  • Use shade cloth or temporary shade for vulnerable crops

  • Hold off on fertilizing during heatwaves—new growth is too fragile

  • Group plants with similar water needs for better care

Always check soil moisture a few inches down. A damp surface can be deceiving.


Container and Raised Bed Gardening: Needs Extra TLC

Containers and raised beds are efficient and popular in Idaho gardens—but they dry out fast and heat up quickly in the sun.

Containers:

  • Use light-colored or large pots to help keep roots cool

  • Check moisture daily (or twice daily during extreme heat)

  • Add mulch to container surfaces to reduce water loss

  • Move pots to afternoon shade if you can, or use umbrellas or shade cloth

  • Skip the fertilizer until the weather cools a bit

Raised Beds:

  • Amend with compost to hold more water

  • Water deeply and consistently—daily in temps over 90°F

  • Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to water efficiently

  • Add 2–3 inches of mulch to moderate soil temperature swings

  • Shade cool-season crops like lettuce and spinach to delay bolting

Raised beds and containers can be powerhouses—but only if you stay ahead of the heat.

Lawns: Tough, But Not Invincible

Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and tall fescue thrive in spring and fall. But when summer highs hang out above the mid-80s, even tough turf shows stress.

Heat-Stressed Lawn Signs:

  • Grass looks dull green or bluish

  • Footprints linger long after walking

  • Growth slows, blades feel dry or brittle

Keep Lawns Alive Through Heat:

  • Mow high—3–4 inches helps shade the soil

  • Use a mulching mower to keep moisture and nutrients in the lawn

  • Water deeply, aiming for 1–1.5 inches per week in 2–3 sessions

  • Sharpen mower blades to reduce tearing

  • Avoid fertilizing in peak heat

A lawn under stress doesn’t need rescuing—just steady, gentle care. With consistent watering and mowing, it’ll bounce back strong once cooler weather arrives.

Flower Beds: Fragile but Recoverable

Annuals and tender perennials often struggle most in summer heat. Blooms fade fast, leaves scorch, and plants may wilt even after watering.

Watch For:

  • Drooping leaves

  • Smaller or faded flowers

  • Brown leaf tips

  • Early flower drop

Flower Bed Survival Tips:

  • Mulch to keep roots cool and moist

  • Water at the base of plants to reduce disease and improve efficiency

  • Choose heat-tough favorites like zinnias, lantana, marigolds, and black-eyed Susans

  • Shade delicate flowers using nearby plants or lightweight covers

  • Deadhead often to keep blooms coming without over-stressing the plant

Container-grown flowers may need water once or twice a day during heatwaves—and they’ll appreciate a break from that blazing afternoon sun.

Resilience Through the Heat

You can’t change the weather, but you can outsmart it. With a few adjustments—like early watering, smart mulching, temporary shade, and timing your tasks—you can help your garden survive and thrive through the hottest stretch of the year. Plants are surprisingly resilient. With a little help, they’ll bounce back beautifully once the heat breaks.

Additional Reading:

Sunday, June 25, 2023

Stay sharp! Maintaining your lawn care equipment.

To keep your mower in tip-top running condition, have a competent service professional thoroughly inspect your mower at least once a year.
Inspection areas:
Sharpening and balancing the blade - A dull blade tears grass and can leave it prone to disease, and an unbalanced blade can cause your mower excess wear and tear.
Check the air filter - If you are using the mower in dry or dusty conditions, you will need to replace the air filter more often.
Check the spark plug - Always ensure that the spark plug is clean and gapped correctly.
Check the carburetor - and have it adjusted if necessary.
Check the oil - and have it changed if needed.
Check the wheels, bags, and
belts
- and replace as needed. Consider blowing off mower after each use.


Your lawn mower is likely the most frequently used piece of outdoor power equipment that you own - here's a maintenance calendar that's handy to use. Proper maintenance is extremely important to maximizing efficiency, reducing emissions, preventing costly repairs and extending the life of your lawn mower. By keeping your mower in proper working order, you can help maintain a healthy environment, pocketbook and lawn.
For more information on lawn care, contact your local University of Idaho Extension office!

Saturday, April 20, 2019

Steps to a Healthy Lawn and controlling Weeds

The first step to having a healthy and attractive lawn and controlling weeds is choosing a grass variety best adapted to your life style and available resources. Factors to consider would be high traffic, shaded and sunny areas, type of soil, available water and amount of time available to care for the lawn.

Irrigate properly to help reduce annual weed infestation. Light frequent irrigation encourages weed seed germination, even if a pre-emergence herbicide has been applied. Water 1- 1.5 inches per watering. Do not water again until you see signs of wilt. Turf will also turn a shade of blue green when it is water stressed. The best time to irrigate your lawn is between 10 pm and 6 am.

Mowing The preferred mowing height for all species of grass is 2 ½ - 3 inches. The minimum height that any lawn should be mowed is 2 inches. Mowing to heights less than 2 inches results in decreased drought and heat tolerance plus higher incidences of insect, disease, and weed problems. The seeds of some weeds require high light intensity to germinate. The shaded environment near the soil surface in high mown lawn helps deter weed germination. Mow frequent enough that no more than one third of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. If the mowing height is two inches. the grass should be mowed when it is 3 inches tall. If the mowing height is 3 inches, it should be mowed when it's about 4 inches. Keep your mower blade sharp to avoid shredding and fraying leaf blades. Grass clippings should be allowed to fall back into the yard to provide natural nitrogen.

Pre-emergence herbicides. A Pre-emergent is activated in the top layer of soil, where the weed seeds sprout, and by design it stops the plant from growing. A pre-emergent is NOT effective once the weeds are showing. Spreading out the herbicide so that it is evenly distributed is critical. It must also be watered into the soil within the appointed time period. The soil must remain undisturbed in order to maintain the barrier. A pre-emergent has to be replaced, or replenished. Pre-emergence should be applied two to four weeks before when seeds germinate in mid March to early April depending on weather. Warm moist springs cause earlier germination The temperature of the soil ( 55-60 degrees) as it starts to warm up in the spring, will be the primary indicator of the pending arrival of various weed species. With normal weather patterns, pre-emergence herbicides give good to excellent control of crabgrass, foxtail, and barnyard grass. Do not over seed into areas that have recently been treated with pre- emergence.

Post- emergence herbicides. Perennial broadleaf weeds can be controlled by post emergent herbicides. It is important to properly identify the weed before choosing an herbicide. Some common perennial broadleaf weeds in lawns are dandelion, field bindweed ( morning glory) White clover, curly dock, ground ivy, Canada thistle, broad leaf plantain, buckhorn plantain and yarrow. The best time to control perennial weeds is in late summer or early fall when weeds are preparing for winter.

Core cultivate (aerate) the lawn at least once a year to reduce compaction and to control thatch.
Fertilizer may be needed if lawn has poor color and vigor, doesn’t recover from traffic or has more weeds present. Nitrogen is the most important nutrient for lawns. Do not use Phosphorus or Potassium unless a soil test indicates it is needed. Cool season grasses should be fertilized in fall, late spring and little in the summer. Warm season grasses should be fertilized late May, June, avoid late summer and fall.

Check out the resources below: