Organic Pest Control For Your Home Garden

The definition of Organic Pest Control is very broad. Generally, organic pest control means discouraging or destroying insects or pests without using manmade or synthetic chemicals that will be harmful to humans or animals. There are many means of pest control beyond the use of synthetic or natural chemicals. The following methods can reduce or eliminate the expense, preparation, storage and general need for any chemicals.

Crop Rotation
Crop rotation is an excellent way to manage pests, enhance soil health, and has been used for centuries. Since many pests rely on specific crops as a food source and for reproduction, removing or moving a crop can eliminate the food source and habitat for those pests. The simple act of moving a crop or plants from one area to another every year can confuse pests and reduce their population when they lose a favorite or familiar spot.

Companion Planting
Couple crop rotation with Companion planting for double duty! This method of planting not only enhances nutrients available, but can attract pollinators, and deter pests of surrounding plants. For example, planting nasturtiums near kale, cabbage or other brassicas. Nasturtium’s beautiful and edible blooms naturally draw in pollinators. Nasturtiums also draw cabbage worms to feed on blooms and leaves that helps keep those pests away from nearby brassicas. Nasturtiums are self-seeding and easy to grow too!

Biological Pest Control
Another chemical free method, biological pest management, is achieved by using natural enemies to regulate pests. A classic and well-known example would be the use of ladybugs, which feed on aphids, to control aphids that are destroying plants in the garden. The focus of biological control is minimizing the damage caused by pests by reducing or suppressing them. Another benefit to biological pest control is eliminating the potential of developing pesticide resistant pests. Biological pest control can be implemented to control insects, weeds or pathogens that affect plants or animals.

Mechanical Pest Control

There are many methods of mechanical pest control that provide a targeted approach to removing pests. This method of physical control can be time-consuming, but also very efficient. Handpicking harmful insects from plants can take significant time and energy but can be the quickest and most direct option for removing pests. An example would be removing visible squash bugs from spaghetti squash plants along with eggs laid on the underside of plant leaves. Locating and removing the pests before damage is done to plants can be a bit difficult.

The use of covers, barriers, or screening are mechanical options that can also be very effective if implemented before pests, or their larvae, are present in the garden. These barriers can save the time of hand-picking pests, but since some insects are very, very small, barriers may be breached by those very determined pests!

Often it is the combination of one or multiple control options that can reduce or eliminate garden pests, allowing the usage of any type of chemicals to be the last resort.

It’s Squash Week!

Squash has ancient history dating back as far as 12,000 years, American Indians called squash the “the apple of God”. In the 17^th century squash was introduced to Europe; however, it was not commonly eaten until the 19^th century. Iroquois American Indians had three main crops squash, beans, and maize, also known as the “Three Sisters”.

Types of Squash:  

Summer squash grows on non-vining bushes. The three main types include: the yellow straight neck or crooked neck, the white scallop or patty pan, and the oblong, green, gray or gold zucchini.

Winter squash matures on the vine and is covered with a hard rind that permits winter storage. It is categorized according to its fruit size: small fruits (1 to 4 pounds) include acorn types, butternut types, and some true winter squash types; intermediate fruits (6 to 12 pounds) include banana squash, Cushow, Hubbard and some Sweet Meat varieties; large fruits (15 to 40 pounds) include Blue Hubbard, Boston Marrow and Jumbo Pink Banana varieties; jumbo fruits (50 to 100+ pounds) include Big Max and various Mammoth varieties.

Planting: 

If planting squash from seed, plant them either in a garden bed or in a hill. In the garden bed, they’ll need to be planted 2-3 feet apart at about a 1-inch depth. However, if planting them in a hill, take 3-4 seeds and place them together. Then mound dirt in around them. The hills will need to be 5-6 feet apart. Most summer squash varieties now come in bush form. Winter squash varieties are in vine form. So, plan accordingly if you are growing a vine. Vines need to be planted about 8-12 feet apart.

The final step to planting squash is to water regularly and consistently. One time a week, you’ll need to water the plants deeply. Give the squash plants about an inch of water so the water will reach the roots.

Care: 

Mulch - After planting squash plants place mulch around each plant. This will protect the roots of the plant and keep weeds from becoming a problem.

Fertilize - After first bloom appear on your squash plant, it is time to fertilize to the side of the plant. Fertilize regularly. Like with most gardens, fertilization once every 4-6 weeks should be ample.

Water - Water your squash plants heavily. Water them one day a week with one inch of water along with regular watering on other days.

Pest Problems:  

Squash Bugs look like smaller stink bugs. They live on the squash plant and kill it by sucking the

sap right out of the plant. This sucking action releases a toxin from the bug into the plant and kills your plant. Prevention is key. Rotate crops yearly, use insecticides, and pay attention to your plants. If you can catch them while they are still small, it is much easier to get under control. Remember to dispose of all squash plants at the end of the grow season so the bugs don’t overwinter in them.

Blossom-End Rot. You think your plants are doing great, you see fruit forming, and then

you see that the end of the fruit is black which means that your fruit is inedible. This is an issue because of a calcium deficiency or your soil has uneven moisture levels in it.

Stink Bugs They are an issue because they will nibble on your plants. Clean up plants and weeds in your yard, and do not give them a place to overwinter.

Squash Vine Borer The eggs are laid at the base of a squash plant. When the eggs hatch, they begin to gnaw through the plant. This will obviously kill your squash plant. You need to clean up your garden beds every winter, so they don’t have anywhere to overwinter. Seeing signs or finding eggs, sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the base of the plant. It is more about preventing this bug than defeating it because once you see it, then it is probably too late for your plant.

The best companion plants for squash are corn, peas, beans, icicle radishes. These plants help deter certain pests that often attack squash plants.

Harvesting and Storage:

Summer squash can be harvested about 55 days after planting. For optimum quality, harvest while fruits are tender and still have a shiny or glossy appearance. When growing conditions are favorable, harvest the crop daily or every other day. Harvest crookneck and straight neck varieties when fruit is 1½ to 2 inches in diameter. Harvest zucchini when fruit is 7 to 8 inches long and scallop types when they are 3 to 4 inches in diameter. All these squashes can be harvested at smaller sizes for extra tenderness. Do not leave large fruit of summer squash on the plant because this will inhibit the development of additional fruit. Store summer squash in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.