So, you’ve thought about composting?

Good for you! Composting is a great way to Reduce, Reuse &  Recycle. Food scraps and yard waste together currently make up more than 28 percent of what we throw away.  Composting enriches soil, helping retain moisture and suppress plant diseases and pests.  In addition composting reduces the need for chemical fertilizers and encourages the production of beneficial bacteria and fungi that break down organic matter to create humus, a rich nutrient-filled material.  Check out this website to see what the EPA says about at composting at home along with several helpful links.

Has the idea of composting and compost bins been a bit overwhelming? Do you have questions like “Will it be difficult or expensive to set up this operation?”  “What exactly should I put in my compost piles?”  “Is this project going to be labor intensive?” Do you have other questions?  Well just as we approach other aspects in our lives, if we break down the project into smaller parts the task becomes more manageable.

First thing’s first. Put your compost pile close to where you will use it. Away from drying winds, but in partial sunlight to help heat the pile. You should choose a place where water is available and adequate drainage.

 What types of materials do you need to set up composting bins? 

Well you can set your operation up as fancy or as simple as you like. An area that is about 3’x3’x3’ is a great start. You may use inexpensive materials such as wire mesh, old pallets and trash cans or buy a composting system from your local or on line retailers.  Here are two photos for examples. Consider buying a kitchen composting bin for kitchen scraps, paper towels, coffee grounds, egg shells and other things for your convenience.

What kind of material does your compost pile need?  Here is a list of safe materials.

Materials NOT to add.

Ideally, a compost pile should be made up in layers.  

The first layer should be coarse plant material to allow oxygen to circulate up through the pile. 

The second layer should be 6 to 10 inches of finer plant material such as leaves, grass clippings, and kitchen scraps.

The third layer should be a 1 inch layer of soil or manure. Consider adding 1/3 cup of nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate, blood meal, or bone meal for every 25 square feet of compost pile material. This will help the breakdown of plant material. Repeat layers as necessary. 

If you are interested in adding worms to your composing regimen check out this interesting article on “Vermicomposting” 

Next – ADD WATER.  Keep the pile moist but not waterlogged (think wet sponge).  You may need to add water in the summertime. As microorganisms begin to break down the organic material, heat is generated. Within a few days the compost pile should reach an internal temperature of 90 to 160 degrees F. You may want to cover your pile with a tarp to help control moisture and temperature.

Turn the pile over occasionally (every 2-4 weeks) this aerates the material for more rapid decomposition.

Composting is a process of several months to a year depending on size, conditions and maintenance of your pile.  The process is well worth it. 

For more information on basic backyard composting there are several university websites that offer great information, tips, tricks and thoughtful solutions to backyard composting.  Here is a link to a guidebook titled “Composting at Home.”

Building a Worm Bin

Don’t have the space, location, or time for an outside compost bin? Have you heard about composting with worms (vermicomposting)? Vermicomposting is a convenient way to dispose of vegetable peelings, paper wastes and other organic materials. Worms eat the organic materials and create great compost, which is recycled into rich dark soil conditioner. The worm compost can be used for gardens and house plants to feed and nurture your plants.

What type of worms?

There are 3 main types of earthworms:

• Compost worm – 4 main species 1 Eisenia fetida (Tiger); 2.Dendrobaena venta (Blue Noses); 3. Lumbricus rubellus (red wiggler); 4. Eisenia Andrei (Reg Tiger)
• Earthworker worm most likely seen in your garden, busy at work tilling the soil making it airier and nicer for plants to grow in.
• Root Dwelling worms are deep burrowers, inhabiting the areas around plant roots, rich with decaying roots and fungi and are widespread in farmlands. You won't see these worms, as they never venture above ground.

The best types of worms for vermicomposting are red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) and redworms (Lumbricus rubellus). These two species make great worms for the compost bin because they prefer a compost environment to plain soil, and they are very easy to keep. Worms that feed on vegetable waste, compost, and organic bedding produce richer casting than those that feed on plain soil. You won’t find red wigglers in garden soil. You may find red worms in compost, under rotting logs, and in other organic situations. The problem is identifying them. You won’t be able to tell the difference between Lumbricus rubellus and other worms, so it’s best to buy them. If you don’t have a local supplier, you can order them on the Internet. It takes one pound of worms (1,000 individuals) to start a good-sized compost bin.

Location for Worm Bin

Where will you be keeping your worm bin? Worms thrive in temperatures between 55F and 77F degrees.

• Indoors - A well-tended worm bin is odorless. You can keep it in a pantry, utility room, or under the kitchen sink. A garage, basement, or carport is also a potential site.
• Outdoors - The north side of a structure (such as a house, shed, or garage) is preferred, because temperatures there don’t fluctuate as much. The bin also needs protection from rain and wind. Place it under the eaves or a deck or build a cover that repels rain but still allows good air circulation. An outdoor bin must also be secured against rodents, raccoons, and other animals.

You may choose to place your worm bin outside during the warmer months and bring it in undercover during the cooler months.

It is okay to touch and handle worms with your bare hands as you work with them. Remember that they are photophobic (sensitive to light), so they will tend to move away from you as you add new food waste and new bedding, or when you harvest the vermicast.

What size of bin?

To figure out the bin size you need, you must first determine the amount of food waste your family generates in 1 week. Your worm bin must contain 1 cubic foot of space for each pound of kitchen waste. Note that this does not mean that the bin would always be full, but rather that it would provide ample space for worms to work at the right moisture and oxygen levels.

What materials do I use to build my bin?

You can use a variety of materials to build a worm bin. Plastic totes, wooden bins, and commercial, stackable worm towers all are popular. You also can use a shipping crate or food storage barrel (a great way to repurpose and recycle one). Just be sure that the wood was not treated with chemicals and that other toxic materials have not been stored in the containers (food grade is best).

Bedding

The bedding in your worm bin provides a balanced diet and a damp, aerated home for your

worms.

•  Shredded newspaper or recycled printer paper (do not use glossy paper)
• Corrugated cardboard
• Straw
• Coconut Fiber
• Shredded leaves

Other tips for your bin

• Worms need 75 to 85 percent moisture in their bedding. Lightly mist the bedding when needed.
• When feeding pull aside some bedding and make a hole where you can put food scraps.

Troubleshooting Worm Bin Problems

NC State University Extension created this great troubleshooting chart.

  

For more help creating your worm bin visit University of Idaho Extension office at 501 Main Street, Caldwell, or call (208) 459-6003.