Are Bees the Only Pollinators?

With real evidence of bee population loss in the last few years, the term ‘pollinator’ might be on a gardener’s mind right now.  But what about other pollinators? Can you encourage other beneficial insects to your landscape and do they have any other benefits?  Do they all sting? 

In the chart below, we can find some common plant pollinators who you may not have thought of as beneficial, but all have something to give to your garden.  

European Paper Wasp

Let’s start with one of the hardest to accept, the European Paper Wasp. Difficult as it may be to have around because they do sting, not only are they pollinators, but they also feed on soft bodied, leaf-eating pests - caterpillars, aphids.

The Hoverfly is a pollinator in disguise.  They have evolved to look like bees, mainly to ward off predators. Lucky for us these little flies are harmless, unless you’re an aphid. Once the adult Hoverfly has selected the best aphid colony in your garden to lay its eggs beside, soon those eggs develop into aphid-eating maggots. 

Butterflies and Moths are also good pollinators because of the large amount of pollen that collects on their feet and legs. Some special characteristics that set them apart from bees are not only do they taste with their feet, but they can also see the color red.

Less known but just as important as pollinators are bats, birds, mice, and other vertebrates. 
Psst...they also eat their weight in bad bugs!

With these factors in mind, you might want to try to attract these pollinators to your yard and garden by planting a wide variety of plants that bloom from early spring until late fall. Plant is clumps with native plants and don't forget night-blooming plants. You could also install a bee hotel for native bees and mason bees.

You may be able to do less pest control and more relaxing while these and other beneficial pollinators do the work for you. 
Follow us on Facebook during Pollinator Week June 18-23!

No slowing down for Tree & Turf Team this season

Well, things aren’t slowing down for Tree and Turf team this season. After the earliest start for team back in March, the newly combined team has been meeting weekly at Caldwell Extension office going through new client call-ins, emails and walk-ins. We’ve stayed busy researching through numerous education web sites, reading through extension office library books to come up with best answers to help with client’s questions.  A good part of weekly meeting involves research and follow ups with clients.
  

LISA Training

Setting out measuring cups

The team has also continued the process of its own learning by taking class at Rich’s house back in early May. The new educational service called LISA “Lawn Irrigation System Audit” allows anyone to call extension office and schedule Master Gardener to come out to their home.  The MG can perform water irrigation test that determines how well your lawn irrigation system is performing across your whole lawn. So, if you notice any dry brown areas or soggy wet areas in your lawn, this service could be a benefit that could help determine if you need to move or adjust your irrigation water flow.

then measuring each cup

Watering for a set amount of time

The service is reasonably priced at $20.00 per call.  The overall  time to do the whole service at the client’s place is about an hour.

What we have seen lately are clients calling a professional landscape person to help in planting a new tree into their yard. Then a short time later [4 to 12 months], the tree starts the slow die-off process because it was improperly planted.  They then call the Extension Office asking "Why is my tree dying?". Notice the triangle wires sticking out of the ground, this is part of wire basket in which the tree was shipped.⇓

We’ve had several clients call in the past month where landscaper dug too small of hole for that size tree. Then just rolled the root ball wrapped in burlap sack along with thick wire basket into hole. This didn’t allow roots to grow and be healthy, instead the roots were stuck in very small space and tree started slow death.

This is what you want to remove before putting your tree root into the ground:  All of the Wire rack and burlap sack ⇒⇒

I’ve included a couple of very good Education web sites that show the proper way to plant new trees and a good maintenance schedule to help your tree stay healthy.

Monday is just around the corner for us with more new client questions to research for right answers. 

So, until next month, keep on digging!

The Tree and Turf Team

Hollyhocks

It's easy to fall in love with the cheerful hollyhocks sprawled all over my elderly neighbor’s junk filled backyard. He was happy to share seeds with me and told me he remembered them from the 1950’s when his parents bought the farm.  

There are 1500 species and 27 genera in North America and grow in zones 2-10. The edible flowers are considered a delicacy in Turkey. Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea) are in the mallow family.

Hollyhocks require:

• Full sun
• Moist, well-drained soil
• Should be watered with drip irrigation or soaker hose
• Grow up to 8 feet tall
• Biennials -- take two years from seed to bloom
• Plants reseed themselves
• Companion plants are pansies and campanulas

They attract hummingbirds and butterflies. In the Victorian era, hollyhocks were a symbol of ambition and initially were plants for the wealthy. They were used medicinally for respiratory ailments and for cooking.

My hollyhock plants looked ragged, with bumpy reddish growths on the lower leaves. The spots became dry, brown, and left holes in the lovely green leaves. Initially I treated them with a detergent based wash, then applied insecticide per the research from my plant books. The problem continued, and I noted that other gardens’ hollyhock leaves were equally as unattractive as mine. It seemed we would need to co-exist. I just picked off the offensive leaves.

Before Google was available for research I had to rely on books. In my master gardening class, I learned how to use the Google search site (site:.edu hollyhocks). Using this educational search, I was able to find out what was causing problems. To my amazement, the culprit was a fungus! The mystery was solved as I perused the pictures and found the Puccinia malvacearum fungus.

One of the most common problems with hollyhock is Rust (Puccinia malvacearum). Rust causes the plant to look ragged, with bumpy reddish growths on the lower leaves. The fungus overwinters in infected plant debris. In the spring new infectious spores are formed on infected plant debris that cause infection on the newly emerging leaves.

Disease Control Strategies: 

• Cut infected plants at the soil line and remove debris as soon as the hollyhocks are done flowering. This prevents the rust disease from overwintering and infecting in the upcoming spring. 
• In addition, remove and destroy any mallow weeds growing near hollyhocks.
• Adding a layer of mulch around hollyhocks in the spring will hinder overwintering of spores within in plant debris. 
• Scout hollyhocks in early spring. Remove and destroy the first leaves that appear infected. 
• Proper location choice can be important to reduce the chance of infection. An ideal site will have adequate sunlight, good soil drainage, and sufficient air circulation.
• It is also recommended to water the plants early in the day, so that they dry relatively quickly.
• Consider purchasing more resistant varieties such as the Alcea rugosa and Alcea ficifolia.
• A preventative fungicide can be applied to plants BEFORE infection or as soon as infection is detected. Frequent treatments will need to be applied as new growth emerges.

My initial plants are a very old variety, I have secluded a few and removed most of the plants. We have a large area, and I hope to avoid infecting any new plants. I have new plants from the seed swap at the Canyon County U of I Extension Office. According to Wisconsin Horticulture these are fungicide treatments and usage that will help your hollyhocks.  

“If you decide to use fungicides for control, select products that are labeled for use on hollyhocks (or more generally on ornamental flowering plants) and contain the active ingredients chlorothalonil, mancozeb, myclobutanil, tebuconazole, or triticonazole. When making more than one application, DO NOT use the same active ingredient for all treatments. Instead, alternate the use of at least two active ingredients with different modes of action to help minimize problems with fungicide-resistant variants of the hollyhock rust fungus. Myclobutanil, tebuconazole and triticonazole have similar modes of action and should NOT be alternated with one another. Be sure to read and follow all label instructions of the fungicides that you select to ensure that you use products in the safest and most effective manner possible.”

I will also be purchasing new seeds in my quest for lovely, cheerful hollyhocks!

The Joys of growing Crocosmia Bulbs

'Lucifer' crocosmia

Crocosmia produce masses of sword-like foliage and brightly colored blooms. Originally from south Africa, their name comes from the Greek words for “saffron” and “smell”.  'Lucifer' is the most popular scarlet red but also they come in many varieties of yellow and orange. Why grow crocosmias? Few diseases or pests (including slugs!) seem to trouble crocosmias. Humans and hummingbirds alike appreciate the red, orange and yellow crocosmia flowers. During crocosmia’s typical mid-summer to fall bloom period, other flowers have finished blooming or are looking tired. Crocosmia flowers last well in the garden and in the vase...and also do well in containers.

Crocosmia 'George Davidson'

Plant these bulbs (more exactly "corms") in spring after all danger of frost is gone. Plant the corms 2-3 inches deep and space them 6-8 inches apart in threes. They do multiply so having more is always good. Place the corm face up in soil with compost. With our blazing hot afternoon sun in the Treasure Valley, put them in an area with morning sun afternoon shade - they seem to do much better.  They are drought tolerant and only need occasional moisture when very dry. Remove the spent blooms to encourage more blossoms. After blossoming for the season let the foliage die down naturally.

Crocosmia Prince of Orange

All crocosmias are winter hardy in zones 6-9. Some species, including Lucifer, are hardy in zone 5  If you are concerned about hardiness, dig them up, put them in a box with some sawdust and bring them in to a garage or somewhere it doesn’t freeze but keep them cool.

When planting in containers, make sure your container has drainage holes and good potting soil (not soil from your garden). Plant the corms as above, water and sit back. An easy-care flower, crocosmias are a wonderful addition to a Hummingbird and Butterfly Garden.  Plant some and ENJOY!                      

Crop Rotation

Planning for crop rotation is a must for any home gardener and will help with the health and productivity of your garden year after year.  From container gardening, raised beds, or garden beds, crop rotation plays an important role in the success of your home garden.  The practice of crop rotation has been found throughout human history in agriculture.

What is crop rotation and why is it so important?

Crop rotation is simply changing the location where you grow plants within a family, every season. The practice of crop rotation each season will help maintain the health of your soil and reduce the risk of plant diseases and pests associated in certain plant families. For effective crop rotation, a plant family should not be planted in the same area for a minimum of three to four years.

What is an example of a basic four method rotation plan?

For a home garden with four garden spaces, here is an example of growing four categories of plants by legume, root, leaf, and fruit. Each growing season the category of plants are rotated to the next garden space, going right to left in the diagram shown below.

For home gardeners with more space, rotation by family is another option for more complex crop planning. Here is a table of common vegetables and their plant family classifications:

To help keep track of your garden’s crop rotation plan, it is important to keep a yearly garden map or journal where plants are located.  It can be difficult to remember plant locations by year three or four; so keeping a record is important for implementing a successful crop rotation plan.

Although crop rotations for a small garden can be a challenge, ensuring plant families are not grown in the same area each year will lead towards a healthier and more productive garden.

Crop Rotation in the Vegetable GardenAgricultural Technology
Using Crop Rotation in Home Vegetable Garden

Early start this year for Turf and Tree Team

Our 2018 Tree and Turf team

With above average temperatures in the valley this early Spring, the local trees and plants are getting head start on their growing season. With that in mind, the newly combined Turf and Tree team of Master Gardeners from Univ. of Idaho Canyon County Extension office is getting its earliest start to the new year.  

We now have higher than normal volume from area residents giving us a call as well as emailing the team with their questions and concerns.

The new team got started back in early March with series of turf training classes taught by local University educator Rich Guggenheim. 

New sod being cut and rolled up

We followed the training classes up with field trip out to local DG turf farm. There, the owner, John went through what it takes to run a turf farm and different varieties of turf he has available.                         

     

Middleton fruit tree visit

With the classes and field trip behind us, we were all eager to get started. We had our first site visit out to Middleton to visit a local resident that had many questions about her recently planted fruit trees. She had many questions from watering schedules, to proper pruning and when to start fertilizing. We spent a good couple hour answering her questions and looking at each of her 20 trees individually for any unique issues or problems.  

    

     

The affected spruce tree

After the Middleton visit, we made dash down to south Nampa to another site to check out some Spruces that were feeling the blues. The owner had several Spruces that appeared to have dieback that was impacting his trees. The team took several pictures and small clipping samples from couple of trees to take back to office/lab for further evaluation. What's wrong with my trees blog Part 1

Here's Part 2 - The following Monday, the Turf/Tree team started investigating possible causes to Spruce tree impact including hooking up microscope to take closer look at needles. We also used several University “.edu” web sites looking for clues. During our search a new client walked in extension office door with very similar problem with her Spruce trees.  After giving her what we believe was the answer to the problem with her Spruce trees Rhizosphaera Needle Cast, we were also able to answer other questions she had on turf maintenance and how to get rid of gophers. We put together an email detailing each of her issues that was found thru Penn State and Colorado State Extension web sites. She seemed thrilled at the quick response to all her questions and concerns...and she left with a smile.

Well this next week doesn’t look like it’s going to slow down at all. We have several emails requesting more information from several new clients needing help with their trees and lawns. We are doing site visits to conduct LISA for a 20$ fee (Lawn Irrigation System Audit) if you have concerns about your lawn. Looks like we're going to have really busy summer.  So, till next month, keep on pruning.

Master Gardener Plant Clinics

What is this plant?

Is this a good or bad bug?

Have you ever seen a flower or weed or insect and wanted to know what it is? Or ever had your lawn or favorite plant/tree/bush suddenly start looking sick and wanted to know why?

You may not realize it, but expert help may be right around the corner!  

Starting on April 30, hours are Monday 1-4, Wednesday 1-4, and Friday 9-12.

Plant clinics take place at many locations around the area. Many are held at the County Extension Office while others may be at the local nursery or garden center, or at your community farmers market.

Idaho Master Gardener volunteers are trained to help you in plant and pest ID as well aiding in diagnosing what is wrong with a sick plant, tree, bush or lawn. 

For more information about becoming a Master Gardener volunteer or to contact our Plant Clinic, contact your local University of Idaho Extension office!