Codling Moth Control for the Small-Scale Fruit Grower

Of all of the fruit I have grown in Idaho, my favorite is the apple - not just any apple, a 'Criterion' apple picked fresh off the tree. Biting into one of these juicy, bursting with flavor apples is an orchardist’s delight.

Ironically, for any orchardist, commercial or small- scale operations in which this blog is dedicated to comes with a cost. And for many of those seasoned apple growers, significant cost of time, energy and resource is essential for the perfect marketable fruit. Ideal size (Goldilocks proportions), right color, superb taste and no blemishes. Now if we were living in the Garden of Eden, no problem, but we do not, so comes the consequences of a need for disease management, climate control, soil balance, branch and trunk care, and the dreaded pest control. 

For this article, I am only going to address pest control: one pest in particular that stands head and shoulders of all the other apple pests, the Codling Moth. This moth is a member of the Lepidopteran family Tortricidae. Interestingly, codling means “an unripe, half-grown apple”.  Now add a small worm to this scenario and you have the perfect storm of total destruction of a normal apple. And, just as one perfect apple can bring delight to the dedicated orchardist, it can also bring a grown man to tears when he discovers as he bites into that prospective delicious apple that a black headed cream-colored worm has riddled his sweet meal with several blackened distasteful tunnels…worthless to the core! 
For the untrained eye an outward examination of the suspect apple may puzzle the human consumer for even though many apples may bare the evidence of the unwanted worm that stings and eventually penetrates the skin of the apple many worms find it more convenient to enter through the “calyx end” of an apple. 
Because these worms have such a voracious appetite for apples, the small-scale fruit grower may become discouraged and find it not worth the effort to put up with these pests and so depend on the fruit stand or grocer to be their provider of these sweet worm-less treats. But for the fruit grower who holds to the tenants of religiosity, tenacity and creativity… and who has a plan in place (while these moths are in hibernation) there can be hope and there can be success! One educational source that has done extensive research on the control of the codling moth is Washington State University Research and Extension Services. 
  
 Several practical approaches starting with a better understanding of the life cycle of the codling moth can be helpful in winning the battle of the worm. WSU’s website has numerous charts ranging from life history of the moth to the pesticide spray schedule when the moth is most active throughout the year.  I have in the past used my own method of monitoring moth activity through the use of a molasses-based milk jug traps. I found at a local organic nursery  who recommends this method along with some other valuable advice using a more “organic approach”.
                                  
This is a key component of worm control in your apples. The idea is to know exactly or at least within a couple of days when the moths are on the move and are ready to lay their eggs on strategic apple tree locations to raise their offspring. 
What I like about this website is they take on more of a biological approach in controlling this moth by using pheromone traps and parasitoids I have had little success with these methods but have found a product named Spinosad to be fairly effective if used appropriately with the spray schedule for this area. I have just recently signed up online for the Pacific Northwest Pest Alert Bulletin. I highly recommend this site if you are really committed to being timely with your spray routine which could be several times throughout the life season of the moth.  As mentioned, Spinosad is my pesticide of choice and has some interesting history. In 1982, a distinctive soil dwelling bacterium called Spinosad was discovered on this Caribbean island. Spinosad has become a unique pesticide used in organic gardening.  This year I will be adding another product that meets OMRI standards, an all seasons horticulture oil with Spinosad. This product is considered an excellent fungicide, miticide and pesticide that can be used within 24 hours of harvest. 
            
The above links have some excellent additional advice on how best to control this nasty moth’s offspring appetite so we gardeners and orchardists can better reap the benefits of our fruit tree husbandry. 

Here is wishing you a juicy worm-free apple of your choice this summer. (even though Criterions are the best!) 

Or I'll huff, and I'll puff, and I'll dry your ground out!

Or I’ll huff, and I’ll puff, and I’ll dry your ground out

One of the trademarks of living in Idaho seems to be wind. Learning how to adapt can be challenging to any newcomer. Unless you are from, say, Chicago? In any case, being aware of how wind affects your landscape can help in protecting them during our often dry, windy fall and winter seasons.

Drying winds strip plants, turf, and the soil of much needed moisture. As the wind blows it wicks the moisture out of the plant, and the soil. As the low humidity and wind blow, plants can’t replenish the water they lose through their leaves, or needles. This is one reason you may have a brown cast on the edge of your evergreen needles.

On perennial shrubs, such as roses or lilacs, damage to terminal growing points can occur.

There are several things to keep in mind about your landscape if you live in these windy areas.

1. Fall and winter watering is not an option. Failure to water your plants is the most common cause of plant stress I see in landscapes. And just because your landscape is mature, does not mean you can stop watering it. You don’t stop drinking water just because you've matured, do you?

2. Mulch can help retain moisture in the soil. Yes, I know, it’s windy and the wind blows your mulch all the way to Kansas. Well, I am sure the people of Kansas appreciate your contribution to their fine state. Really though, mulching can make a big difference in how much water your soils will hold.

3. Add organic matter to your soil. Incorporating 2-3 inches of plant based organic matter at a depth of 4-6 inches will help hold in water if you have sandy soil, or help water drain if you have clayey soil. Either way, adding organic matter such as composted plant material will benefit your plants. Just be careful if you use animal manure as compost as these contain salts and heavy metals that build up in the soil over time, and can increase the risk of food borne pathogens if used improperly in vegetable gardens.

For more information on fall or winter watering, visit your county Extension office.

Lawn Tonics By T. Koski.

I get a lot of (mostly) good lawn questions. No big surprise there. More surprising (OK, annoying!) is how many gardening myth questions my Extension colleagues and I get – to include the use of magical, restorative tonics and elixirs for every part of your landscape. Is this yet another example of if “you can find it on the internet”….watch Jerry Baker promote it during PBS fundraising week….or see it on the local news, that it must work? While the list of lawn care myths and remedies is long, let me comment on a particularly annoying one – that of the lawn drought tonic. Tonic promoters claim their cocktail will fertilize the lawn and help eliminate “bugs”, disease and thatch – all while keeping the lawn green with minimal watering. Many websites attribute its origin to a golf course superintendent. Self-proclaimed gardening “expert” Jerry Baker, creator of a myriad of just plain weird landscape tonics, claims the recipes as his. Whatever the source, I assure you that no self-respecting golf super would ever attach his/her name and reputation to such a concoction. If you do an internet search, you can find dozens of sites promoting variations of the lawn tonic. 

A frequently cloned 

No "lite beer"! Would a microbrew
work better?

referenced on many sites is a Denver television station story about the tonic that ran years ago during one of Colorado's droughts. You can read and watch the news video here, However, to save you the time and spare you the aggravation of watching it, here is the lawn tonic recipe. NOTE: Including it here DOES NOT imply any endorsement. To the contrary, I recommend that you don't use it.

  

The "Lawn Tonic"

-One full can of regular pop (any brand, but no diet soda)

-One full can of beer (no light beer)

-1/2 cup of liquid dishwashing soap (do NOT use anti-bacterial dishwashing liquid)

-1/2 cup of household ammonia

-1/2 cup of mouthwash (any brand)

-Pour into 10-gallon hose-end sprayer (other sizes will work too)

-In high heat, apply every three weeks

No "anti-bacterial soap"...even
though ammonia and mouthwash
are antibacterial in nature? Hmmm....?

So…does anything here have any merit when it comes to caring for a lawn? Maybe. But even if there are potentially beneficial ingredients here, one thing I’ve noticed after reviewing many lawn tonic recipes is that the general recommendation is to “apply it to the lawn”. Rarely is there any suggestion as to how large of an area that a single recipe should cover. More importantly, none of the recipes I read gave directions for what setting to use on the hose-end sprayer when applying the tonic.

 

What rate setting to use? How much
lawn area does a "batch" cover?

Another problem with these recipes is that they recommend the use of household ammonia. First, the concentration of household ammonia varies with brand. Second, using household ammonia as a nitrogen source isn’t the best of ideas. The ammonia…the nitrogen…is in a form that is good for cleaning floors, not for fertilizing plants. I will spare you the chemistry, but take my word: it’s not a safe (for plants anyway) fertilizer source. And consider this: the amount of nitrogen (from the ammonia, since nothing else in the recipe contains nitrogen) provided by a single batch applied to ONLY 250 square feet of lawn is equivalent to around 0.1 pound of N per 1000 square feet. Clearly this is not a safe, efficient, or cost-effective way to apply nitrogen to a lawn. 

A REALLY poor nitrogen
source for plants

What about the beer? The claim is that the yeast and other beneficial microbes in it will help thatch decompose and the carbohydrates and microbes in ONE CAN OF BEER will somehow rejuvenate the soil flora of your entire lawn! In reality, the beer provides little more than some extra water and a small amount of sugar, as the yeast and any other microbes in the beer are dead…so there are no yeast or “good” microbes being addedto the lawn. It’s equally ridiculous to believe that the infinitesimally small amount of sugar applied with the soda could provide anything more than an infinitesimally small benefit to the lawn. The dishwashing soap may act as a wetting agent, perhaps relieving some water repellency in a thatchy lawn that has become too dry. Curiously, most lawn tonic recipes warn against using anti-bacterial dish soap – ignoring the fact that the next ingredient in the recipe, mouthwash, is itself anti-bacterial in nature? If the amounts of nitrogen and other potentially beneficial ingredients are present in quantities too small to have a real effect on lawn quality, why do people believe this stuff works? Perhaps it is that anyone who will go through the hassle of mixing up and applying these tonics many times throughout the growing season is someone who is likely to pay closer attention to mowing, watering, and aerating their lawn? And perhaps they are also fertilizing their lawn with other sources (many sites promoting the lawn tonic also encourage the use of natural organic fertilizers!)? Remember that devoted tonic users are also hand-watering their lawn as often as once every 2-3 weeks. This could provide enough water to mask dry spots from poor irrigation system coverage, spots that would be otherwise more apparent during times of watering restrictions. Of course, there is always the “placebo effect” – if you believe that it works…then it works! Clearly no one wants to admit that they are wasting their time (and beer!) spraying a totally ineffective mix of household cleaners, oral care product and party beverages on their lawn. Can using it hurt anything (besides your pride, perhaps, after reading this)? Yes, if basic lawn care practices are ignored under the mistaken belief that using the tonic will provide adequate fertilization and can fix any and all lawn problems. If legitimate, common sense lawn care is practiced by tonic devotees? Then applying the tonic is harmless and little more than recreational lawn care that provides the home gardener with some exercise and the lawn with insignificant amounts of nitrogen and wetting agent. One thing you can bet – anyone who applied lawn tonic before this week’s snowstorm will confidently say over the next few weeks “See…it works!”. The inch or so of slow-release water, return of spring (warmer temperatures and more hours of sun), and release of soil organic N had nothing to do with their lawn greening up…but don’t confuse me with the facts!

Interested in the science behind, and potential benefits of, common home-grown garden remedies and tonics? In his book “The Truth About Garden Remedies – What Works, What Doesn’t & Why”, Dr. Jeff Gilman, a professor and Extension horticulturist at the University of Minnesota, writes about the history and potential benefits of age-old garden remedies. In it he logically debunks any potential value of spraying your yard (or other plants) with beer and soda, and explains why using household ammonia as a fertilizer source is just damn dumb. Jeff is also a frequent contributor to another excellent hort blog that he and 3 university colleagues started a few years ago, The Garden Professors.