Xeriscaping Doesn't Mean ZERO Scaping

Xeriscape is a landscape design emphasizing little to no water usage and is a realistic alternative to traditional landscaping in any climate. Low water use landscaping does not mean one is limited to cacti, succulents, and rocks. Instead, it involves designing a landscape that utilizes low-water plants and reduces turf. Other benefits of xeriscape include reduced yard maintenance and reduced water bills while attracting wildlife to your yard. 

The most vital part of your xeriscape plan is ensuring that watering and irrigation zones are laid out efficiently. A successful xeriscape relies on minimized water usage through efficient irrigation methods. A drip system can deliver water directly to a plant’s roots deep within the soil, reducing evaporation and allowing us to water with less frequency.   

Turf uses large amounts of water. By limiting, or eliminating, turf in your landscape planning, you can significantly cut down on water usage. Turf areas will be irrigated differently than border areas containing flowers and shrubs. Flowers and shrubs can utilize a drip system using less water while turf requires irrigation or sprinkling using significantly more water. 

Now it is time to decide where to place everything, choose low water usage plants, shrubs, and trees. Drought-tolerant species can withstand Idaho’s dry conditions. Arrange plants with similar water requirements together. Some recommendations for drought-tolerant plants include Sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata) and Penstemon. Wavy-leaf oak and Mountain Mahogany are examples of drought-tolerant trees. Make choices that will provide pops of color in your yard throughout the year.

Before planting, you must enhance the soil quality to retain moisture. Soils in the Treasure Valley tend to be heavy with clay. Add organic matter, compost, and mulch to improve the soil and enhance water retention. The use of mulch can also aid in weed abatement. Plastic and other non-porous materials are not recommended for use in the garden for keeping down weeds.

Finally, you may also want to add rocks and boulders for visual interest. Often, rocks are arranged in such a way that it appears there is a dry stream bed running through the yard.

Regularly maintain your xeriscape by pruning, weeding, and adjusting irrigation as needed. Watering early in the morning reduces the amount of water lost to evaporation. Early morning irrigating also reduces the risk of disease because plants have time to dry out during the day.

Shrubs Native to Southwestern Idaho

 Interest in native plants continues to grow, and for good reason! Whether for water  conservation, wildlife habitat and food sources, or simply an adherence to local flora, gardeners and plant enthusiasts alike find themselves curious about native plants.  

Plants native to southwestern Idaho are evolved to withstand hot and dry summers, cold winters, periodic droughts, and infrequent wildfires. It should be noted that native plants  are not necessarily synonymous with Fire Wise plants, a type of plant selected to withstand fires. Native plants provide a critical food source and habitat for insects, small mammals, and birds. Native plants have adapted to be more drought tolerant compared  to nonnative plants. Below are five shrubs that are native to Idaho and well adapted to  the growing conditions of the Treasure Valley. 

Purshia tridentata (Antelope bitterbrush) grows to about 5-8’ tall and 4-6’ wide. The flowers of this shrub are small, bright yellow, fragrant, an appear in late spring. Bitterbrush serves as a critical food source to herbivores, especially during harsh winters. As the name implies, the seeds have a bitter flavor.

Artemesia tridentata (Basin Big Sagebrush)  grows 3-5’ tall on average in a rounded or irregular shape and flowers in September. Similar to many sagebrush species, this shrub actually produces two types of leaves: one that is deciduous and another that is persistent (or evergreen). The leaves produce an essential oil that repels some wildlife but attracts fragrant others, such as pygmy rabbits and Greater Sage-grouse, which are dependent on it. 

Artemisia tridentata ssp. xericensis (Foothills sagebrush) is a naturally occurring hybrid between basin big sagebrush and mountain big sagebrush. This shrub grows 3’  tall and flowers in September. One way to distinguish between this shrub and the basin big sagebrush is by shining an ultraviolet light on it when wet. Foothills sagebrush glows  a blue color, while basin big sagebrush does not.

Ericameria nauseosa(Gray rabbitbrush) grows to 2-7’ tall and 1-4’ wide and blooms yellow in late summer or early fall. This shrub is an excellent food source and habitat for small mammals and birds. While native, Gray rabbitbrush is, in fact, highly flammable.

Chrysothamnus viscidiflorus (Green rabbitbrush) grows up to 3’ tall and 1-2’ wide.
Yellow flowers appear in late summer. The Latin species name viscidiflorus means “sticky flowers” and refers to the pungent smell and sticky texture of the rabbitbrush. Green rabbitbrush is both highly flammable and capable of resprouting vigorously after fire. It is an excellent food source, especially to rabbits.

Native shrubs play an important role in Idaho’s ecosystem as they are uniquely adapted
to the growing conditions and provide an important food source and habitat for a variety

of animals. Here's a good list for more info.

Why Mulch? Conserve Water and Reduce Weeding

There are so many benefits to using mulch in your garden and landscape! Spreading a layer of mulch on top of the soil protects plants from extremes in temperature. It helps protect plant roots and crowns in winter. Use dark colored mulch in the spring to warm up the soil faster for warm-season crops. To protect plants from the heat of summer, use light colored mulch to lower soil temperature. A layer of mulch also allows soil to hold more water. Using organic mulches adds nutrients to the soil as they decompose making soil more fertile over time. Additional organic matter also makes soil easier to till and creates a better environment for growing vegetables.

Mulching correctly, to a depth of about four inches, also creates a barrier that helps to control weeds. It must be deep enough to keep sunshine from hitting the soil and germinating weed seeds. Another potential benefit of a well-mulched garden is increased yields. Fruits and vegetables are cleaner and less subject to rot when not in contact with soil. Rows can be closer together as there is less need to cultivate, possibly no need to cultivate at all! 

Mulching need not be expensive. You can mulch with materials found around your yard or garden. A light layer of dried grass clippings or shredded leaves can be used with caution. If applied too thickly, grass and leaves can form a mat that interferes with the movement of water and oxygen through the soil. Pine needles last a long time and are excellent mulches for acid-loving plants. Compost is the best organic mulch provided that the compost is “finished”, meaning the decomposition process is complete and no longer generating heat.

Mulch can be applied at any time and may need to be reapplied throughout the growing season. It is important to note that as organisms break down and decompose some mulches, such as hardwood bark, straw, or sawdust, soil nitrogen levels can become depleted which inhibits plant growth. You can compensate for this by mixing some composted material into the mulch, such as grass clippings. Be careful not to apply mulch too deeply as air may not be able to penetrate the mulch layer and result in oxygen depletion. At the end of the growing season, mulch can be tilled into the soil or simply left to decompose over the winter. However you decide to do it, with care mulch can improve life in the garden and the life of the gardener. Happy mulching!