5 Expert Tips for African Violets

African violets care guide – 5 expert tips to keep this vibrant houseplant blooming BY TENIELLE JORDISON 

These compact flowering indoor plants can add charm and a pop of color to your home. An easy way to brighten your home is by growing indoor plants that flower all year round, and among the best indoor flowering plants are African violets. Their compact, prolific foliage and rosettes of vibrant flowers are a popular choice for houseplant lovers wanting lasting indoor blooms.

Also known as Saintpaulia, African violets have multiple varieties offering different color flowers. For example, Saintpaulia 'Red' blooms a red-tinted purple shade while Saintpaulia 'Top Dark Blue' provides the classic, deep violet color.

African violets stay quite small, growing up to six inches tall. They have a slow growth rate but will reward you with blooms that last weeks at a time throughout the year, provided they have optimal conditions and care.

These are easy indoor plants to care for and will catch the attention of any visitors you have. We have gathered expert tips to help you care for your African violets and keep them blooming. The cluster blooms of African violets can add a pop of color to your houseplant collection. They are low-maintenance indoor plants, but experts have told us a few things you can do to keep them blooming for longer. 

1. Get The Lighting Right (Image credit: Getty Images/Mint Images/Helen Norman) Generally speaking, African violets will be quite happy wherever they are placed but opting for a spot with lots of natural light will be beneficial for promoting brighter blooms.

'They prefer bright indirect light so they should be placed within one foot of southeast or west-facing windows. Direct sunlight can damage the foliage, whereas the lack of light can hinder flowering and growth,' says Vladan Nikolic, houseplant expert from Mr. Houseplant.  In their natural habitat, African violets are found thriving in partial shade, low to the ground among other vegetation. You can also grow them in your yard as outdoor container plants in the shade. 

2. Avoid Watering Foliage

(Image credit: Getty Images/Liudmila Chernetska)

When it comes to how to water houseplants, a common mistake is not keeping a plant at the right moisture level. African violets like to have a consistent level of moisture without being over-watered, as this could cause discoloration and root rot.

'You want to avoid splashing water onto the leaves as African violets are susceptible to leaf scarring and diseases. Most plant parents bottom water these plants or use a narrow-spouted watering can to water around the foliage so it doesn’t splash onto the leaves,' says Paris Lalicata, head of plant education and community at The Sill. It's a good idea to let the soil dry by around 50% before watering again. Just use your finger to feel if the top inch of soil is dry as an indicator.

3. Keep Humidity High   (Image credit: Getty images/Valeriy_G)                                                                          

As indicated by its name, African violets are native to the warm climates of eastern African countries, including Tanzania. As a houseplant, they will enjoy higher humidity levels. 'African violets thrive in higher humidity, ideally between 60 and 80%. However, they will do well even in lower humidity' says Vladan. You can increase the humidity for your plants by using a pebble tray, or regularly misting them as shown. Be careful not to mist the leaves and petals of these compact plants too closely because it could cause permanent spotting. 

African violets grow best in temperatures ranging from 65°F to 80°F' says Vladan.

4. Deadhead After Flowering(Image credit: Getty Images/ChamilleWhite)

Like other flowering plants, African violets will bloom and flourish from deadheading. 'Deadheading is a process to prune off flowers as they become spent to prolong the blooming cycle or to help initiate a second flush of flowers. It basically prevents plants from going into seed if they were pollinated so the plant can continue to put out blooms during that cycle,' says Paris.

Using pruners, you can pinch off the buds of African violets once they have finished flowering and start to wilt and fade. It can help promote more growth and reward you with another round of beautiful blooms.

5. Repot If Necessary(Image credit: Getty Images/Ludmila Kapustkina)

Although African violets will stay quite small and compact, it's important to repot them if they grow too big for their current container.

Indoor plant expert Lisa Eldred Steinkopf from the Houseplant Guru says to look out for your African Violet developing a long central stem. 'Your plant is telling you it's time to repot your violet, and this should happen yearly for best growth,' says Lisa.

Not repotting your plant could risk it becoming pot-bound, restricting growth and blooms. You can easily repot an African violet by simply moving it into a larger container, taking care to remove any dead foliage and roots and topping the new pot up with fresh African violet potting medium. African violets thrive in slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), so you can first check the soil pH and if needed add dolomite lime to acidify the soil. You can also find a ready-to-go potting mix specifically designed for African violets,' says Vladan. 

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Are Your Deicers Friendly to Plants, Animals, and the Earth?

While applying products to keep our walkways clear of snow and ice,

it’s important to remember the nearby plant life.  Deicing products, primarily composed of salt, can injure plant material, but is there a safer product to use around desirable vegetation? What about around pets? What about the run-off in our rivers and watershed?

• Salts can cause injury to trees, lawns, and shrubs
• Salt run-off can harm our groundwater
• Salts can corrode concrete
• Salts can do bodily harm to humans if handled improperly
• Salts are hard on the little paws of your four-legged friends

So you may be thinking salt is salt, right? No, not all salt is the same. Think table salts (Sodium chloride) and Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate). If you remember your days in chemistry, salts are combinations of negatively charged anions and positively charged cations. Examples are sodium chloride (table salt), potassium chloride (used as a fertilizer), and magnesium chloride (the one you see trucks spraying on our roads). The most problematic element in these salts is chloride, a corrosive ion that damages metal and concrete. Chloride is also toxic to plants.

Salt damages plants by dehydrating plant tissues, causing burns, or being toxic at high levels. While most plants have some tolerance to salt injury, repeated applications of deicing products during the winter can result in dieback or even death the following spring. Misapplications of deicers (i.e. dumping piles or using too much) can leach through the ground and into the water table or wash into the storm sewers, causing pollution. Before buying or using any product, read the label carefully and use only as directed. Here's a great publication on plant tolerance to salts. 

Here are a few of the salt products you might run into while shopping:

Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA)
It has low corrosion potential, so it’s less damaging to cars, metals, sidewalks, and plants. Notice it’s not a chloride product, the “salt” comes from the calcium-magnesium mix and the acetate replaces the chloride. Plus, it’s biodegradable! Its ice-melting properties are equivalent to traditional deicers, but the cost may be 20-30 times as expensive as sodium chloride products. These are often touted as “pet friendly”. 

Magnesium chloride
Commonly referred to as “mag chloride”. Applied as a brine, it’s the most common product used on our roadways before storms because it lowers the freezing point of soon-to-arrive precipitation. It can melt ice down to -15° F, which is a nice benefit. If applied in moderate amounts, it’s relatively safe for plants and pets. Its corrosion potential is low, as is its pollutant possibilities.

Potassium chloride
It’s expensive and not as widely used as a deicer because of the rising costs of fertilizer. This works best when temperatures are above 15° F. Because it’s most commonly used as a fertilizer, it’s relatively safe to apply near plants.

Sodium chloride
It’s the most widely available and the cheapest. It doesn’t cause corrosion to concrete and melts ice best when temperatures are in the 20s. It is the most damaging to plant material. If you use this product, use it sparingly and in small amounts!

Before using any de-icing product, clear away as much snow and ice with a shovel as possible. If heavy snow is predicted, then try to shovel more frequently. Remember, deicing products are not meant to melt all snow and ice, but rather aid you in your removal efforts. If you want to avoid adding chemicals to your landscape, then consider using sand or kitty litter. While they don’t melt snow, they can provide traction in slippery spots. Sand and kitty litter are also safe for pets and plants and can be swept up when the snow melts.

If you use deicing products near vegetative areas, then use caution with potential salt build-up and consider a soil test in the spring.  If it’s an especially snowy year, you may consider rinsing the areas next spring with clean water. Try not to scoop snow laced with deicing products directly on top of plants, especially if they are sensitive. If you have the opportunity, consider planting more salt-tolerant plants near walkways and driveways.

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Backyard Garden Fencing

If your inner lumberjack is urging you to build that garden fence to keep wildlife and uninvited produce-pickers out, it would be wise to stop and research first. After all, fencing can be pricey and there may be regulations to follow. You might also want to determine or consider which specific herbivores are feasting and trampling, how visible your garden space is to neighbors, your budget, and any local statutes that may apply. It is also helpful to consider if your neighborhood critters are jumpers, climbers, or diggers. After review, many gardeners realize that they only need winter protection for young fruit trees. It’s worth doing your homework before building that fence.

Fencing Regulations
An understanding of fencing requirements, materials, pricing, purpose, and aesthetics varies with your city, state, and neighborhood. Check your plot map and local regulations; state, county, and municipality. In Idaho, Title 35 addresses building and removing fences and the rights and responsibilities of landowners. Idaho Code 35-101 defines a lawful fence must not be less than 4.5 feet high, and the bottom board, rail, pole, or wire must not be more than twenty inches above the ground. City and town fencing rules are usually found under building and permits, including property easements. Neighborhood HOAs will likely provide additional, detailed requirements and responsibilities.

Consider Local Wildlife
Wildlife in the garden may be more than a neighbor’s pet. In a more open field area, it might be deer, rabbits, raccoons, and/or voles. Your list of pests may also include birds.

Fence Design Considerations
The design must provide sufficient available light for your plants’ needs. Soil type matters too, especially if it’s clay. When clay is wet, fence posts wobble unless secured 2-3 feet deep in a concrete base.

Fence Height
The fence height varies based on which wildlife are most troublesome. Build a 2-3 foot high fence for cats, dogs, and rabbits to block their entry. If raccoons, opossums, voles, or squirrels are a problem, then an underground barrier is needed (usually chicken wire). These animals can also climb, thus leaving the top 18 inches of chicken wire loose will discourage these critters as the fencing will bow down when they try to climb. You could also try an electric wire along the top. If you need to inhibit larger animals, such as deer, then the fence height must be
6-8 feet. For troublesome birds, low visibility metal wires can have negative impacts if the bird collides with the wire. Avoid this by marking it with cloth strips tied to the wire. Bird netting placed over the fenced area, using PVC pipes to support, is an option that prevents flying animals’ entry. 

Fence Materials
Materials can include poultry fencing, chain link, wood, woven wire, and more. Wood choices are varied, and the longest lasting are treated. This is recommended, especially for the posts. Treated wood has a life expectancy of 15-30 years depending on the type of wood you choose. Fences designed in horizontal lines will handle wind gusts more easily than a vertical design. When it comes to cost, wood, iron, and electric are more expensive than chain link, woven wire, or poultry fencing. You may be able to install a wood fence yourself. This option can also be good for a bit of privacy from passersby and neighbors. Electric fencing is

normally used to contain livestock but can be successful for pet containment and denying some animals entry. Just add some cloth flags or smooth PVC on the top wire for a visual warning to birds and humans. Barbed wire is often used in-between the top and bottom electric wires. With any of these fencing options, should you have a problem with the “diggers”, about 3 inches of buried chicken wire under the fence row should keep those critters out. Select a fencing that meets the broadest variety of possible avian and animal invaders. Of course, don’t forget to plan for at least one gate to enter the garden area.

Tree Guards
Finally, don’t forget tree guards if your fruit trees or other trees and shrubs are afflicted by girdling, fresh bud nipping, or leaf eating. Creating a physical barrier is the best overall prevention strategy. Surround the tree with a sturdy fence in the fall, after clearing mulch and grass, to prevent voles and mice. Bury the bottom of the fencing in the soil and set it to at least 18-24 inches in height above an anticipated snow line. A bit of planning and research protects your garden and wildlife for years to come.

Why January Is a Wonderful Time to Start Native Perennials from Seed

Starting seeds in step with the season

In Idaho, winter has a rhythm all its own. The garden falls quiet, the soil freezes, and everything above ground seems to rest. But beneath that calm, winter is quietly preparing the landscape for spring. Many of the region’s native perennials depend on that seasonal shift, waiting for winter’s cues before they begin to grow.

That’s why January is such a fitting moment to start native seeds. The timing matches the natural cycle these plants evolved with, and the cold months do much of the work that gardeners would otherwise need to recreate indoors.

Winter gives native seeds what they’re waiting for

Most native perennials require a period of cold, moist stratification—a long stretch of winter conditions that signals it’s safe to germinate when spring arrives. January consistently delivers the combination of cold, light moisture, and freeze–thaw cycles needed for this process.

While winter naturally provides these conditions, some Idaho winters bring long dry spells with very little snow. In those years, outdoor pots may dry more than expected. A quick check every couple of weeks is enough; if the soil surface looks completely dry, a light watering keeps stratification on track. The goal is moisture, not saturation—just enough to maintain a slightly damp environment.

Instead of managing refrigeration or carefully timing artificial cold periods, native seeds can be sown in pots, placed outdoors, and allowed to experience the winter they expect. It’s a simple, climate-aligned approach that mirrors natural patterns.

Outdoor pots make the process simple and reliable

Small nursery pots or cell trays filled with seed-starting mix create an ideal environment for winter stratification. Seeds pressed gently into the surface receive light, moisture, and winter temperature swings without becoming waterlogged. After a single watering to settle the mix, the pots can be placed outdoors where they will catch the weather but remain protected from wind.

This method stays tidy, reduces maintenance, and performs consistently well in the Intermountain West.

Some gardeners also use repurposed containers like milk jugs or clear clamshells.
These can work for certain species as long as moisture and temperature are monitored, especially on sunny winter days.

Freeze–thaw cycles help the seeds awaken

Although winter feels harsh to humans, native seeds rely on the push and pull of freezing and thawing to soften tough seed coats and trigger internal germination signals. Snowmelt or periodic winter moisture provides gentle, steady hydration. As late winter approaches, temperatures warm just enough to cue the seeds that spring is on its way.

Nature handles a process that is difficult to duplicate indoors.

January sowing leads to stronger, more resilient plants

By the time the soil warms in spring, seedlings that began their journey in January are often:

• deeper-rooted
• sturdier and more compact
• better adapted to Idaho’s dry summers
• more tolerant of the transplanting process

Because many natives do not bloom the first year, this early start supports healthier plants heading into their second season.

Direct sowing works too — when the soil allows

Some natives thrive when sown directly into the ground. However, frozen January soil isn’t workable in most parts of Idaho. When a natural thaw arrives—usually in late February or early March—direct sowing becomes an excellent option for species such as:

• common yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
  
• blanketflower (Gaillardia aristata)
• penstemons (Penstemon spp.)
• Idaho fescue (Festuca idahoensis)
• blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis)

Until then, outdoor pots remain the most dependable winter method.

Cold frames and unheated greenhouses offer gentle protection

Cold frames and unheated greenhouses support winter stratification while offering mild protection from wind and wildlife. They moderate sudden warm spells and help maintain even moisture. As long as no heat is added, seeds receive the natural chill required for proper germination.

Native seeds well-suited to a January start

Wildflowers & Forbs

• 
  Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus)
  

• Palmer’s penstemon (Penstemon palmeri)
• Eaton’s penstemon (Penstemon eatonii)
• Narrow-leaf coneflower (Echinacea angustifolia)
• Pale purple coneflower (Echinacea pallida)
• Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
• Blanketflower (Gaillardia aristata)
  
• Showy aster (Eurybia spectabilis)
• Smooth aster (Symphyotrichum laeve)
  
• Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)
• Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)
• Prairie smoke (Geum triflorum)
• Lupine (Lupinus spp.)

Native Grasses

• Blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis)
• Idaho fescue (Festuca idahoensis)
• Sandberg bluegrass (Poa secunda)
• 
  Indian ricegrass (Achnatherum hymenoides)

Native Shrubs

• Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus)
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)
• Woods’ rose (Rosa woodsii)
• Rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosa / Chrysothamnus nauseosus)

A peaceful January task with a rewarding spring payoff

There is something grounding about sowing native seeds while the landscape rests under winter’s quiet blanket. No urgency, no rush—just a small, hopeful task offered to the season these plants know best.

When seedlings emerge in early spring, right on cue, it becomes clear how well a January start aligns with the natural rhythm of Idaho’s native landscape. Winter sets the stage, and gardeners simply support the process.

Further reading —

https://extension.psu.edu/starting-seeds-in-winter

https://www.hortmag.com/smart-gardening/seed-starting-tips-plus-how-to-care-for-seedlings-

https://www.hortmag.com/smart-gardening/starting-perennial-seeds

https://www.xerces.org/publications/plant-lists