Feeding the Summer Garden: A Practical Guide to Fertilizing

By July, gardens in the Boise area are alive with activity. Tomato vines climb their cages, squash leaves stretch across beds, and pollinators hum from blossom to blossom. But while the season’s early work is behind us, another critical task emerges: feeding the garden.

Plants are living systems, constantly drawing nutrients from the soil to fuel growth, flowering, and fruiting. As those nutrients are used up, the soil alone often can’t keep up with the demand—especially in raised beds, containers, or sandy soils common in southern Idaho. Understanding how to fertilize makes all the difference.

This guide walks through the most common fertilizing methods home gardeners use, when and why they matter, and how to apply them effectively.

Side-Dressing: A Midsummer Nutrient Boost

Side-dressing is the practice of applying fertilizer in a narrow band a few inches away from the base of a plant and watering it in. It's especially useful in July for long-season, heavy-feeding crops like tomatoes, peppers, squash, and corn.

In early summer, nitrogen-rich materials (like urea, blood meal, or calcium nitrate) can support foliage development. But by midseason, as plants begin flowering and fruiting, excessive nitrogen can cause more leaf growth at the expense of blooms and harvest.

In July, a better choice is a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) or one higher in phosphorus and potassium to support flowering and fruit development. Organic options include composted manure, bone meal (typically 3-15-0), or natural blends formulated for tomatoes or vegetables.

Fertilizer should be applied 4–6 inches from the stem and gently worked into the soil or covered with mulch. Always water thoroughly after applying.

Top-Dressing: Slow and Gentle

Top-dressing is the process of applying compost or granular fertilizer to the soil surface around plants. It requires no digging and is ideal for leafy greens, herbs, root crops, and perennials—or anywhere you want to avoid disturbing roots.

This method supports soil structure, boosts moisture retention, and releases nutrients slowly. It’s especially well suited for use with compost or slow-release organic fertilizers. Mulching after top-dressing can further improve moisture retention and soil health.

Top-dressing can be repeated every few weeks throughout the growing season, especially after heavy rains or heat waves.

Liquid Feeding: Fast and Effective

Liquid fertilizers are mixed with water and poured around the base of the plant. This method is particularly effective in July when container-grown plants and raised beds may need quicker nutrient access due to faster drying and leaching.

Liquid soil drenches can be made from fish emulsion, compost tea, kelp extract, or water-soluble commercial fertilizers. Apply every 1–2 weeks as needed.

This method is fast-acting and easy to tailor, especially for vegetables like cucumbers, squash, or tomatoes that show nutrient stress mid-season.

Foliar Feeding: Targeted and Temporary

Foliar feeding involves spraying a diluted fertilizer solution directly onto plant leaves. It’s sometimes used to address visible nutrient deficiencies or to support plants under short-term stress.

While plants can absorb some nutrients through their leaves—especially micronutrients like iron, magnesium, or calcium—this method is usually most effective as a supplement, not a replacement for soil fertilization. Effectiveness depends on nutrient type, leaf age, and weather conditions.

Foliar sprays may help:

• Correct specific deficiencies quickly
• Support stressed or struggling plants
• Bypass root-zone issues temporarily

However, they can also:

• Burn leaves if applied in hot, dry weather
• Offer only short-term results
• Increase disease or runoff risk if overused

Apply foliar sprays only when clearly needed, and always during cooler parts of the day—morning or evening. For most gardens, foliar feeding plays a limited, supportive role, best reserved for micronutrient issues or recovery from stress.

Pre-Plant Incorporation: Building the Foundation

Though not a July task, it’s worth noting that much of a garden’s nutrient supply should be in place before planting. Mixing compost and a balanced fertilizer into beds in early spring provides a steady source of nutrients as plants establish.

This early step is especially important for root development and early vegetative growth. Soil testing can help fine-tune what’s needed.

Summary Table

Method	Best Use	Midseason (July) Application
Side-Dressing	Fruiting vegetables	Use balanced or low-nitrogen blends
Top-Dressing	Leafy greens, herbs, perennials	Apply compost or slow-release fertilizer
Liquid Feeding	Containers, raised beds	Every 1–2 weeks with water
Foliar Feeding	Nutrient deficiencies, stress	Use selectively; best for micronutrients
Pre-Plant Mix	All crops	Done at planting; provides base nutrition

Final Thoughts

Fertilizing in July is about balance. The garden is in full gear, and plants need support—but not too much. Focus on what your soil and plants are telling you. Look for signs of deficiency, evaluate past applications, and use the right method for the right crop at the right time.

Fertilizing smart in midsummer can mean the difference between a sluggish garden and a bountiful harvest.

For Additional Reading:

Mid-Season Boost for Hungry Plants

Foliar Feeding

Fertilizing your garden:Vegetables, Fruits, and Ornamentals

Edible Native Landscaping - “Paleo” in Your Own Backyard

Curating your home landscape or garden connects you with a tradition thousands of years old in which humans and plants share a special relationship. Native Shoshone people living nomadic lifestyles began expanding into the area now designated as Idaho as early as 4,000 years ago, and the principle diets of these hunter-gatherers included many edible plants, not to mention the many practical and symbolic uses of plant material. For thousands of years (until contact with Westerners), the indigenous peoples lived off a diet sourced by wild (unfarmed) plants. These wild native plants are still around today, and are ecologically adapted to the Idaho climate and its diverse plant hardiness zones.

Here is a sampling of plants gathered by Shoshone Native Americans for sustenance:

• 

  Arrowleaf Balsamroot

  Camas Bulb (Camassia quamash)
• Wild Onion
• Bitterroot
• Arrowleaf Balsamroot
• Tobacco Root
• Serviceberry
• Chokecherries

• 

  Bitterroot

  Currant
• Pine nuts
• Seeds from Junegrass, Bluebunch Wheatgrass, Thickspike Wheatgrass, and Nevada Bluegrass

Berries were ground and mixed along with hunted meats to form nutritional patties, called pemmican, which were preserved chemically by the acidic berries. Additionally, native tribes in Idaho such as the Nimi’ipuu (Nez Perce) collected:

• 

  Kouse

  Wild Carrot
• Kouse (also called “Biscuit Root” by non-native travelers)
• Sunflowers
• Huckleberries
• Wild Rhubarb

The list could continue, and the above links will give more information about each type of plant. But which ones would grow well in your garden? A good place to start collecting some tips is at the Idaho Native Plant Society resource website. Specifically, the publication Landscaping with Native Plants of the Intermountain Region from the BLM which contains detailed notes and descriptions of nearly all of the edible plants from the above list. The guides include landscape uses and notes, regional considerations, availability, and pollinator attractiveness. Additionally, the two guides specify which of the plants are drought tolerant, how large they grow, how much water and sunlight they need, when they flower, and what color they bloom. 

If there aren’t already enough reasons to focus your landscaping efforts on native plants, the fact that these selected plants have been used in antiquity up to the present because of their important nutritional value to humans gives one more benefit to carefully designing your landscape with location-appropriate plants. The provided references will get you started, and remember also to keep learning along with archeologists and ethnobotanists about how people and plants have survived by cooperating for thousands of years. 

How to Water Your Garden

Many people assume that planting seeds are the most important part of gardening, but proper watering is a crucial element. Keeping your plants hydrated may not seem like a big hurdle in May, but without a good plan in place, you’ll be very frustrated by mid-July. It turns out, there are a few different ways you can effectively keep your garden watered. Let’s summarize 3 basic methods for watering and analyze the pros and cons for each.

Overhead Sprinkler

Probably the simplest and most straight forward way to water a garden is to strategically set up an overhead sprinkler. Of course, there are different styles of sprinklers that can provide water to a large garden area. Two advantages of using an overhead sprinkler system are the ease of installation and low cost. Another advantage for this method is the ease with which you can measure the amount of water being applied to your garden. You can see the water hitting your garden then place bowls or buckets throughout to catch and measure the amount emitted.

There are some disadvantages and cautions to keep in mind when using overhead sprinklers. First, with most overhead sprinklers it is estimated that only about 30% percent of water coming from the sprinkler is utilized by the plant due in part to evaporation. Also, along with providing water to your plants you are also refreshing the weeds that share the garden space allowing those to thrive as well. You will find that you have bigger, happier weeds alongside your plants. Finally, overhead watering provides water to the plant leaves which, especially if wet through the night, encourage mold and fungal disease.

Drip System

Another popular way to water a garden is to utilize the drip system. A drip system was invented to combat all the dangers of overhead watering by applying water directly to the base of the plants. A visit to your local hardware store will reveal the various types of tubing and attachments available to create a drip system. One type of tubing comes with holes 12-18 inches apart so that when attached to your hose and laid in rows, the water runs onto the plant’s base. Drip irrigation provides water near the base of the plant, leaving the upper foliage dry and less susceptible to fungi.

You can also utilize a type of thick black tubing that does not have pre-made holes. With this you purchase smaller “feeder tubes” then puncture them through the main tube. You can customize exactly which plants will receive water by placing the emitter tube at the base of the plant. This works especially well in flower beds or with the bigger plants in your garden such as tomato plants. Drip systems are great for weed prevention by watering the plant and not the entire garden area. They use less water because less is obstructed by leaves and lost to evaporation and/or wind.

As a disadvantage, installing a drip system can be costly, especially if you have a large garden area. It can also be labor intensive at the start to purchase and install. Incorporating a drip system into your sprinkler timing zones adds another level of labor and requires some expertise. Also, a drip system will require that you dismantle and store the parts in your garage every Autumn. You will also need to keep an eye on your system to be sure the tubes remain unclogged and the parts in good working order, then replace or maintain parts as necessary. Because the holes that emit water in the tubing are small they can become clogged from sediments in the water. Installing a filter at the water’s outlet source or hose bib can help.

Soaker Hose

Finally, another watering method that replicates the drip system is the use of a soaker hose. A soaker hose attaches to your main hose and when the water is turned on it literally seeps out of the hose wetting the area around it. Like the drip tubes, a soaker hose is applied to the base of plants so its roots receive needed moisture and the leaves stay dry. It can also wrap around an area making it useful for a crop of small shoots like carrots.

A soaker hose will apply more water between plats than the drip tube so you may find a trail of weeds there. Soaker hoses are generally less expensive than drip tubes but because of their woven fabric and depending on your water type, soaker hoses don’t last through multiple seasons. This means you’ll have to expect the regular purchase of replacements.

You may find that you use more than one method for your garden area depending on each plant. Or, you may enjoy the ease of staying with one method. The task of developing an ideal system for watering that fits your needs and matches your time and budget will be a process. Don’t be afraid to explore different methods, get out there and enjoy what you create!

What Are Dynamic Accumulator Plants?

Ever wonder how some plants seem to improve your garden soil just by being there? That’s the idea behind dynamic accumulator plants. These are plants that naturally pull minerals and nutrients from deep in the ground and store them in their leaves and stems. When you cut these plants back or let them die down, the nutrients are released into the topsoil, right where your other plants can use them.

What Exactly Is a Dynamic Accumulator?

Dynamic accumulators are plants with deep roots that tap into underground nutrient stores. They bring up things like calcium, potassium, nitrogen, and magnesium — nutrients your garden plants love but can’t always reach. These helpful plants then store those nutrients in their foliage. When you mulch with their leaves or let them compost, you're effectively feeding your garden from within.

While gardeners and permaculturists have used this idea for decades, only recently have researchers started to study it scientifically.

Science Meets Soil

Here are a few key studies and resources you can explore:

• Unadilla Community Farm Research (2020–2021): This study cataloged over 340 plants that concentrate specific nutrients. It also created a searchable database so you can find the right plant for your needs.

• Cornell Small Farms Program: This report looks at how these plants can be used to recycle nutrients and build healthy soil.

• Oregon State University Extension: Discusses the basics of permaculture and mentions the potential of nutrient-accumulating plants.

• Scientific Study on Comfrey: This paper backs up the claim that comfrey is especially good at mining minerals.

Popular Dynamic Accumulator Plants

Here are some favorites that work in a variety of climates and gardens:

Plant	What It Brings Up	Why Gardeners Love It
Comfrey	Potassium, calcium, phosphorus	Great mulch, fast grower
Nettles	Nitrogen, iron, calcium	Boosts compost, makes great tea
Yarrow	Phosphorus, potassium, copper	Attracts pollinators
Dandelion	Calcium, potassium, magnesium	Deep taproot, soil breaker
Alfalfa	Nitrogen, calcium, iron	Fixes nitrogen, improves soil
Borage	Potassium, calcium	Bee magnet, fast grower
Chicory	Potassium, calcium, phosphorus	Deep-rooted, hardy and tough

How to Use These Plants in Your Garden

You don’t need fancy techniques, just a bit of know-how. Here are four simple, effective ways to use dynamic accumulators in everyday gardening:

Chop and Drop

This is exactly what it sounds like: cut back your dynamic accumulator (like comfrey, yarrow, or borage) and drop the leaves and stems right where they grew, especially around vegetable beds. This forms an instant mulch layer, which helps suppress weeds, feeds the soil as it breaks down, and retains moisture. You can repeat this process several times a season with fast-growing plants like comfrey.

Compost Booster

Toss the leaves and trimmings of these nutrient-packed plants into your compost pile. Since they contain high levels of minerals like calcium, potassium, and nitrogen, they act as a natural fertilizer boost. This helps balance the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio in your pile and speeds up decomposition. Nettles and alfalfa are particularly good at heating up the compost.

Soil Softener
Some plants, like dandelion, chicory, and comfrey, have strong taproots that drill down into hard or compacted soils. As they grow, they loosen up the earth, improve drainage, and make space for beneficial soil organisms. When these roots eventually die, they leave behind natural pathways that help water and air move through the soil.

Companion Planting

Grow dynamic accumulators alongside your veggies or fruit trees to help attract pollinators (especially with yarrow and borage), repel pests (borage near tomatoes is a classic trick), and improve nutrient availability in the root zone. Think of them as living support systems, enhancing the growth and resilience of your main crops just by being there.

Final Thoughts

Dynamic accumulator plants are an easy, natural way to feed your garden and improve soil health over time. They're not magic—but they are powerful allies. With more research popping up to support what some gardeners have known for years, it’s a great time to give these plants a try. Start simple. Plant a little comfrey or yarrow, and see how your garden responds!

Are Bees the only Pollinators? So many others...

With real evidence of bee population loss in the last few years, the term ‘pollinator’ might be on a gardener’s mind right now.  But what about other pollinators? Can you encourage other beneficial insects to your landscape and do they have any other benefits?  Do they all sting? 

In the chart below, we can find some common plant pollinators who you may not have thought of as beneficial, but all have something to give to your garden.  

Let’s start with one of the hardest to accept, the European Paper Wasp. Not to be confused with most yellowjackets!

Difficult as it may be to have around because they do sting, not only are they pollinators, but they also feed on soft bodied, leaf-eating pests - caterpillars, aphids. 

European paper wasps are relatively non-aggressive, and somewhat less likely to sting than yellowjackets. Stings occur almost exclusively when ness are accidently disturbed.

The Hoverfly is a pollinator in disguise.
 They have evolved to look like bees, mainly to ward off predators. Lucky for us these little flies are harmless, unless you’re an aphid. Once the adult Hoverfly has selected the best aphid colony in your garden to lay its eggs beside, soon those eggs develop into aphid-eating maggots. 

Butterflies and Moths are also good pollinators because of the large amount of pollen that collects on their feet and legs. Some special characteristics that set them apart from bees are not only do they taste with their feet, but they can also see the color red. 

Moths are also part of the night pollinating crew.

Less known but just as important as pollinators are bats, birds, mice, and other vertebrates. 

Psst...they also eat their weight in bad bugs!

With these factors in mind, you might want to try to attract these pollinators to your yard and garden by planting a wide variety of plants that bloom from early spring until late fall. Plant is clumps with native plants and don't forget night-blooming plants. You could also install a bee hotel for native bees and mason bees.

You may be able to do less pest control and more relaxing while these and other beneficial pollinators do the work for you. 
Follow us on Facebook during Pollinator Week June 16-22!