Roasted Tomato Sauce Preservation the EASY Way!

 It’s that wonderful time of year, when we are beyond the  scorching hot days of our summer and we’ve settled into the 90s. This is also the time when tomatoes come on with a fury! If you’ve planted many varieties, as so many of us do, then it’s almost a sprint to keep up with the daily harvest. As an advanced Master Gardener and advanced Master Food Safety Advisor with the University of Idaho Extension program, I’m always looking for the quick and easy way to use what comes from my garden.

I’ve grown it. Now…what? Many years ago, I made and water bath canned my own tomato sauce. It was a lot of work. Since then, I’ve procured the mother of all freezers and now, what I would have canned years ago, I freeze. This way, I have the fresh taste of my garden, all year round. And, the bonus is, I know exactly what goes into what I freeze.

Making and freezing the sauce begins as soon as I have enough tomatoes for a batch. You can use any variety and any size of tomato. I’ll wash, core and quarter the big ones. The Sun Sugar cherry tomatoes, (that I’m so fond of) go into this procedure, whole.

I have peeled garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper at hand. Often, I’ll tuck basil leaves under the tomatoes, if my plan is to make the base for a drop-dead-delicious marinara sauce.

I’ll use a small pan, if I have a smaller batch. I’ll save energy and roast the tomatoes in my toaster oven. Conversely, I’ll use a large restaurant size pan when roasting in my larger, convection oven.

Once I’ve filled the pan with tomatoes, garlic and (sometimes) basil, I drizzle a very conservative amount of olive oil on top. This year, I’ll use a pump atomizer to coat the ingredients with oil, I think it will be more effective and cut down on the amount of oil used. If you use fresh basil, tuck it under the tomatoes, as it can tend to burn during the roasting process.

I pop the entire pan into a preheated, 400° oven and set a timer for 20-minutes. I use this time to revel in the glory of the smells that come from the oven…even opening a window to entice neighbors. I will also tidy my work space during the roasting time. After 20 minutes, I check for signs of roasting. Look for small char marks on the tomatoes and garlic. Check for tenderness in the tomatoes.

Now, I’m in the home stretch! After removing the pan from the oven and letting it cool to touch, I’ll put the contents of it in my blender. I whiz it until it’s pureed.

The next step is not entirely necessary. But, I do it to achieve a velvety smooth consistency. I pour the mixture through a wider gauge strainer to catch any seed or skins that didn’t get blended. This step really does kick it up a notch in terms of quality. Because the skin stayed on the tomatoes during the entire process, there are still plenty of vitamins in the sauce.

I put my sauce in freezer-safe containers with ½ inch head space (for possible freezing expansion), and I label EXACTLY what I added to the mix. This way, I know if I’ll use the sauce for stews, chili, Italian or Mexican recipes. Plus, nothing goes in my freezer without a date. Try to use the sauce within a year’s time.  

The quality of the sauce really holds up with this procedure. The other night, I made homemade pizza. The container I thawed (from my 2016 harvest) was a bit thin for pizza sauce. I simply put the contents in a saucepan and added a small amount of cornstarch. In minutes, I had thick, delicious homemade pizza sauce. The results were delectable!

Gardener Guide to Saving Seeds

Saving seeds is sustainable and saves money. It also helps strengthen plants as they adapt to local conditions and it preserves your favorite heirloom varieties. Many gardeners love to share or swap their seeds with other gardeners. In this light, we can learn a lot about seed saving from Small-Scale Market Gardening (SMG), which is all about keeping things sustainable, encouraging variety, space-saving, and sharing among gardeners. This process helps plants become stronger and better suited to their local environment.

How to Save Seeds 
Start by selecting healthy, non-hybrid plants. Allow fruits and vegetables to mature fully on the plant before harvesting. Wet seeds, like tomatoes, should be separated from the fruit, rinsed, fermented, and then dried. Fermenting helps remove the gelatinous coating that sometimes inhibits germination. Simply put seeds in water for a few days until a layer of mold forms, which helps break down the coating. After fermentation, rinse the seeds well and dry them. Dry seeds, like beans and lettuce, need to be removed from pods, separated from chaff, and dried. Store dried seeds in labeled envelopes or airtight containers in a cool, dry place to maintain their viability. If you want to be especially crafty, you can use pre-made templates to make your own seed packets!

Concerns About GMO Seeds
Home gardeners sometimes worry about exchanging seed with other gardeners because they don't want GMO contamination. GMOs are not likely to be found in your home garden because no retailer sells genetically engineered seeds to home gardeners. GMO crops are expensive and commercial farmers are required to sign a contract that protects the patented technology. These companies do not sell GM-crops to the home garden market or to garden centers.

The Best Plants for Beginners

• Tomatoes & Peppers are self-pollinating and easy to dry.
• Beans & Peas should be allowed to dry in their pods before you harvest them.
• Lettuce produces abundant seeds and is easy to grow.

Other Things to Consider
Be sure to prevent cross-pollination by isolating certain plants like squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, and corn to maintain pure seed varieties. 

Test germination by sprouting a few seeds before planting. This can be done indoors before the season starts. It is also a good idea to write the date on your seed envelopes and use the freshest seeds first.

By practicing these techniques, you’ll cultivate stronger plants and preserve valuable varieties for the future. Happy seed saving!

Goathead season... when every bike ride becomes a quest for survival.

Puncturevine or goathead (Tribulus terrestris) is a very
challenging weed that is also known as Caltrop, Tack Weed, Bull Head, Cat Head, and Mexican Sand Burr. As foreboding as these names sound, the reality is even more sinister because they are difficult to live with and challenging to kill. This is because goathead plants like to stay very low to the ground where they can escape the wrath of lawnmowers, weed-whackers, and bush-cutters, so they often get the opportunity to mature and form their terrible seed heads. What’s worse is that each plant can produce several hundred to several thousand stealthy, strong, and sharp caltrop-like burs that have the potential to seriously injure people, animals, and even thin-walled pneumatic tires (like bicycle tires). The good news (if there is any) is that they also produce small, yellow, bee-foraged flowers that serve as a subtle warning.

HOW DID IT GET THERE? 
It originated from southern Europe and northern Africa. Supposedly, it was (accidentally) imported into the United States along with livestock from the Mediterranean area. But how did it get into YOUR yard? The seeds themselves are designed for animals and people to carry them to their new homes. They attach to fur or feet and walk themselves into a new home.

WHERE DOES IT THRIVE?  
Goatheads love to take root along railways, roadsides, walkways, residential properties, cultivated fields, and other disturbed places. It thrives in hot, dry, sandy soils; but will also grow in most other soils too. The plants don’t generally survive freezing temperatures, but the seeds survive almost any condition.

HOW CAN YOU GET RID OF IT?
Long-term control of puncturevine can be achieved by reducing the number of seeds in the soil. By removing plants before they produce seeds (flowering) over several years, the plants will eventually go away. Burrs that have dropped after removal will need to be collected by sweeping the ground or patting the ground with a piece of carpet to collect the burrs.

Be sure to also check places where shoes are stored and remove any burrs that may have stuck to the soles.

Puncturevine can be killed with chemicals. Always read the instructions carefully to ensure you are being safe, applying at times that won’t affect pollinators, and that you don’t accidentally kill neighboring plants.

You can also introduce your goathead plants to their natural predators: the Puncturevine Seed Weevil (Microlarinus Lareynii) and/or the  Puncture Vine Stem Weevil (Microlarinus Lypriformis). The larvae of these two species will bore into the seeds and destroy them.

WAIT… IS THERE ANYTHING GOOD ABOUT GOAT HEADS?  
Goatheads make a fantastic organic deterrent against bare-footed or bicycle-bound bandits. Just plant Puncturevine in the form of a natural barrier; or, if you happen to be on the run, simply toss a handful of goatheads in the suspected path of bandit travel and your problems should be solved in short order – unless, of course, you are dealing with boot-wearing bandits!

Best of luck keeping your head as you attempt to remove goatheads!

Rush Skeletonweed - An Idaho Noxious Weed

 A weed is considered “noxious” when it is harmful to the environment or animals. According to Idaho's Noxious Weeds booklet, Rush Skeletonweed (Chondrilla juncea) is one of the 69 plants designated as a noxious weed by Idaho’s Department of Agriculture. Equipped with knowledge, together we can help curb the spread of this harmful plant in Idaho.

What is Rush skeletonweed?
Rush Skeletonweed is an invasive, non-native, long-lived biennial or perennial that is very persistent, taking years for established colonies to be eradicated.  It is not toxic, being palatable for most livestock, especially sheep and goats (only goats will eat the wiry stems). These stems are so tough that they can interfere with harvesting equipment, making them a bane for farmers raising grain crops. In the West, it is estimated that over 6 million acres are infested with Rush Skeletonweed, and those numbers are likely to continue to grow.

Rush Skeletonweed germinates or re-sprouts in the fall and early spring as a rosette (looking very similar to young dandelions), actively growing through the spring and early summer.  All the while it is establishing a formidable root system that can be 7’ deep with many side shoots, which can form future rosettes. In early summer, as the stem develops the leaves of the rosettes begin to die back. If it is allowed to progress to this point, it cannot be killed chemically.

The small bright yellow flowers produce ripe seeds, without fertilization, in a few days.  These seeds can then be dispersed by the wind miles away. An established, vigorous plant can produce an average of 20,000 seeds each year.

Rush Skeletonweed prefers well-drained, rocky, or sandy-textured soils in climates that are cold in winter, warm in summer, and wet early in the year. Areas that have been disturbed, such as roadsides, empty urban lots, burn scars, logging sites, cultivated fields, droughty areas, and areas that have been overgrazed, seem to be favorable sites. South and central Idaho is currently the epicenter of the infestation, with wheat-growing regions and rangelands being particularly hard hit

.
How can we mitigate this noxious weed?
First, it helps to know that eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a long-term project (possibly seven years or longer), so be patient.

Spraying rosettes with herbicides both in fall and winter is preferable, and spring treatment is also effective. Unfortunately, 2,4-D, and a round-up type product won’t do the job.

Hand pulling is effective if done when seedlings are less than 5 weeks old.  Once the roots have developed, mark the spot, and return periodically to re-dig because 2 or more roots will likely re-grow in the same spot. This method is preferred in your vegetable garden or other areas where you cannot use chemicals.

As mentioned above, grazing is effective, but must be continuous or you will end up with more rosettes or more flowering stems. Controlling and eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a very serious issue. If you have it on your property, take proactive measures to ensure it does not flourish and spread.

Late Summer Perennial Division: Give Your Plants a Fresh Start

By mid- to late August in Boise, most of our early summer blooms have finished their show. The garden settles into a slower, late-season rhythm: greens deepen, seed heads form, and those long, golden evenings hint at autumn’s arrival. It’s the perfect time to give some of your hard-working perennials a fresh start by dividing them.

Division is like a spa day for plants—it reinvigorates growth, prevents overcrowding, and even gives you extra divisions to plant elsewhere or share with friends. In our high-desert climate, with hot summers and fast-cooling autumn nights, late-summer division is a smart move. The warm soil helps roots reestablish, and cooler evenings reduce transplant stress. As the University of Minnesota Extension points out, dividing perennials stimulates new growth, encourages more vigorous blooming, and improves airflow to help reduce disease pressure. 

The best candidates for this timing are spring- and early summer-bloomers. Day-lilies, bearded iris (divided right after their flowers fade), cheerful Shasta daisies, and peonies all respond well to late August or early September division. Creeping phlox, shade-loving hostas, and sturdy yarrow also benefit from this seasonal refresh. Fall bloomers like asters and mums are best left until spring so their floral display isn’t interrupted.

Some of our native perennials can be treated the same way. Coneflowers and goldenrod both respond beautifully to late-summer division, sending up vigorous new shoots the following spring. Blanket flower and prairie smoke also divide well now. Others—like penstemon, globe mallow, and showy milkweed—tend to resist root disturbance and are better propagated from seed or cuttings rather than being dug and split.

Your plants will often tell you when they need attention. A thinning or bare center in the clump, smaller or fewer blooms, or an enthusiastic spread that’s crowding out its neighbors are all signs that a division is in order. When you’re ready, start by watering thoroughly the day before so the roots are well-hydrated. Work carefully with a spade or fork to lift the entire root ball, keeping as much root intact as possible. Then gently tease the clump apart by hand or use a sharp knife to create new sections, each with healthy roots and several strong growing points. Prepare the planting area with compost to give your divisions a nutrient boost, and replant promptly at the same depth they were growing before. If you’re not ready to place them in the garden, you can also pot up divisions in containers, keeping them watered and sheltered until you’re ready to plant, donate, or share them. Water deeply, and keep the soil consistently moist until you see new growth.

For the smoothest recovery, work in the cool of morning or evening, and if the sun is intense, offer a bit of temporary shade for a few days. A light mulch will help regulate soil temperature and hold in moisture.

By tending to this now, you’ll set the stage for stronger, healthier plants next spring—and perhaps even have a few extras to share with friends or donate to a community plant sale. Sometimes, the best way to help a plant thrive is to give it the gift of space and a fresh beginning.

We've included links to show you more:

• University of Minnesota Extension – Dividing Perennials

• University of Illinois Extension – Dividing Perennials (PDF)

• https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/perennials/dividing

Repurpose your Wine Corks in the Garden - Fun!!!

7 Easy Ways to Repurpose Wine Corks in Your Garden

By Viveka Neveln  Published on July 23, 2025, in Better Homes & Gardens   

                                             

Don't toss your wine corks—put them to use in your garden! Whether you have a whole collection saved for that craft project you keep putting off, or just one or two, corks can enhance your outdoor space right now in lots of clever ways. With just a few tools and supplies, here's how to reuse wine corks for pretty and practical purposes around your garden.

1. Plant Markers

Turn wine corks into simple DIY plant markers with just a permanent marker and wooden skewers. Write the plant's name on the side of the cork with your marker, or you could get fancy and use a wood-burning pen, if you have one. Then stab the sharp end of a skewer into one end of your cork, depending on if you want to read the word from the top going down or starting at the bottom end of the cork.

Your new plant markers will add rustic, homespun charm to veggie beds, herb gardens, and container gardens. The cork will hold up well to the elements, lasting at least a growing season.

2. Pot Feet

Pots and planters drain better when raised up a little from a flat surface. You can buy pot feet or plant stands to do the job, but wine corks offer another simple solution. Cut a few corks in half the short way, then glue them to the bottom of your pots before filling with soil.

Make sure to cut the corks so the pieces are exactly the same height so you can keep the pot level. The extra space allows water to flow away from the pot's base, which helps avoid root rot as well as staining on patios or decks. You can also set the pot in a saucer, where the cork feet will prevent the bottom of the pot from sitting in water, which can keep the soil too wet.

3. Mulch for Pots

Natural corks (as opposed to the synthetic ones) are made from the bark of cork oak trees, and like the bark from other trees, you can use it as mulch. Break up your leftover wine corks into small chunks, then layer them around the base of your plants as DIY mulch. Because cork is buoyant, it's best to use this mulch in container gardens where the rim of your pot will stop them from floating away in a downpour. Just like other types of organic mulch, your cork mulch will help conserve moisture, stop weeds, and eventually will break down into the soil.

4. Make a Garden Kneeling Pad

If you have a large collection of corks, or have some wine-drinking friends who'd like to contribute to the cause, you can make a simple kneeling pad for gardening. Hot glue the corks side-by-side in a rectangular shape. Aim for your total surface to measure 21-36 inches long and 14-18 inches wide. Glue your cork rectangle on top of an inexpensive outdoor waterproof mat for extra stability. Trim the mat to fit the corks if necessary. The corks will help cushion your knees next time you need to weed or plant.

5. Fairy Garden Accessories 

Let your imagination loose to wine corks in all
sorts of fanciful ways for fairy gardens. For example, you can stand the corks on end to serve as edging for a tiny garden path, shown above. Or you can slice them into coins that can serve as stepping stones. Halve your corks lengthwise, and use them to create adorable, log-like steps. Give one of these half cork pieces four toothpick legs, and you have a rustic garden bench perfect for a fairy scene.

6. Topper for Stakes

Bamboo poles or other types of stakes make sturdy supports for tall veggies and flowers. But they can become a safety hazard when you're working around them. Top the ends with wine corks to help make them less damaging if one does poke you in the eye. Plus, you can paint the corks with bright colors to help make the ends of stakes more visible.

7. Compost Your Corks

If you're not feeling crafty but you don't want to just throw out your wine corks, simply add them to your compost bin. Cut them up into small pieces to help them break down faster. They count as a "brown" material in your compost, which should be layered with "green" materials for the composting process to work best.

Happy Lawn, Happy Gardener!

     The first step to having a healthy and attractive lawn and controlling weeds is choosing a grass variety best adapted to your lifestyle and available resources. Factors to consider would be high traffic, shaded and sunny areas, type of soil, available water and amount of time available to care for the lawn.

Irrigate properly to help reduce annual weed infestation. Light frequent irrigation encourages weed seed germination, even if a pre-emergence herbicide has been applied. Water 1- 1.5 inches per watering. Do not water again until you see signs of wilt. Turf will also turn a shade of blue green when it is water stressed. The best time to irrigate your lawn is between 10p.m and 6a.m. 

Mowing  The preferred mowing height for all species of grass is 2 ½ - 3 inches. The minimum height that any lawn should be mowed is 2 inches. Mowing to heights less than 2 inches results in decreased drought and heat tolerance plus higher incidences of insect, disease, and weed problems.  The seeds of some weeds require high light intensity to germinate. The shaded environment near the soil surface in a high mown lawn helps deter weed germination. Mowing frequently enough that no more than one third of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. If the mowing height is two inches the grass should be mowed when it is 3 inches tall. If the mowing height is 3 inches, it should be mowed when it's about 4 inches. Keep your mower blade sharp to avoid shredding and fraying leaf blades.  Grass clippings should be allowed to fall back into the yard to provide natural nitrogen in the soil. 

Pre-emergence herbicides   A Pre-emergent is activated in the top layer of soil where the weed seeds sprout, and by design it stops the plant from growing. A pre-emergent is NOT effective once the weeds are showing. Spreading out the herbicide so that it is evenly distributed is critical. It must also be watered into the soil within the appointed time period. The soil must remain undisturbed in order to maintain the barrier. A pre-emergent has to be replaced, or replenished. Pre-emergence should be applied two to four weeks before the seeds start to germinate in mid  March to early April depending on weather. Warm moist springs cause earlier germination. The temperature of the soil ( 55-60 degrees)  as it starts to warm up in the spring is going to be the primary indicator of the pending arrival of various weed species. With normal weather patterns pre-emergence herbicides give good to excellent control of crabgrass, foxtail, and barnyard grass.  Do not over seed into areas that have recently been treated with pre- emergence.

Post- emergence herbicides Perennial broadleaf weeds can be controlled by post emergent herbicides. It is important to properly identify the weed before choosing an herbicide. Some common perennial  broadleaf weeds in lawns are dandelion, field bindweed  ( morning glory), White clover, curly dock, ground ivy, Canada thistle, broad leaf plantain, buckhorn plantain and yarrow. The best time to control perennial weeds is in late summer or early fall when weeds are preparing for winter. 

Core cultivate ( aerate) the lawn at least once a year to reduce compaction and to  control thatch. 

Fertilization Fertilizer may be needed if the lawn has poor color and vigor, doesn’t recover from traffic or more weeds are present. Nitrogen is the most important nutrient for lawns. Do not use Phosphorus or Potassium unless soil test indicates it is needed. Cool season grasses should be fertilized in fall, late spring and little in the summer. Warm season grasses should be fertilized late May, June, avoid fertilizing in late summer and fall.