Chill Out! Cold Stratification for Native Plants

Cold stratification is an important step for growing many native plants in USDA Hardiness Zone 7. This process mimics winter conditions, helping seeds break dormancy and ensuring they germinate at the right time in spring. In the Boise area, which is situated in Ecoregion Level III 12 (Snake River Plain) and borders Ecoregion Level II 10.1 (Cold Deserts), you have a unique opportunity to cultivate a variety of native plants. Whether you’re interested in wild sunflowers, asters, goldenrods, lupines, purple coneflowers, milkweed, or penstemon, following these steps will help you successfully propagate these beautiful species in your garden.

Understanding the Ecoregion

Ecoregion 12 features a mix of desert and semi-arid environments, characterized by cold winters and warm, dry summers. The region's soils vary from sandy to clayey, which influences the native plant communities that thrive here. Plants in this area have adapted to withstand drought and temperature extremes, making them well-suited for home gardens that aim to support local wildlife and conserve water.

Starting Seeds Indoors or in a Greenhouse

Starting your native seeds indoors or in a greenhouse allows you to control conditions better. Follow these steps:

1. Gather Your Seeds: Collect seeds from native plants in the fall, ensuring they are fully mature and dry.

2. Prepare Your Pots: Use seed-starting pots filled with a seed-starting mix. Make sure the pots have drainage holes.

3. Moisten the Medium: Lightly moisten the seed-starting mix so it's damp but not soggy.

4. Cold Stratification:

• Option A: Directly in Pots: Sow the seeds in the pots, covering them lightly with soil only if they don’t require light to germinate. If they do need light, surface sow seeds and place the pots in the refrigerator for 4-12 weeks. Keep the pots in a plastic bag to retain moisture.

• Option B: Pre-soaking: Alternatively, mix seeds with a moist medium like sand or peat moss in a zip-top bag, refrigerate for 8-12 weeks, and then surface sow them in pots after stratification.

5. Move to Light: After the stratification period, move your pots to a well-lit area or greenhouse. Ensure they receive plenty of light but avoid direct, harsh sunlight at first.

6. Water Regularly: Keep the soil consistently moist (but not waterlogged) as the seeds begin to germinate.

7. Transplanting: Once the seedlings have a few true leaves and the danger of frost has passed, transplant them into your garden or larger containers.

Starting Seeds Outdoors in your garden or raised beds

1. Gather Seeds: Collect seeds in the fall from mature plants, ensuring they are fully dry. This timing allows you to utilize natural seasonal changes for germination.

2. Prepare the Planting Area: Choose a well-draining spot in your garden or raised beds. Loosen the soil and remove any weeds or debris.

3. Surface Sow: Scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil. Many native seeds benefit from light exposure to germinate, so avoid covering them deeply. If the seeds require some soil coverage, lightly sprinkle a thin layer of soil over them.

4. Watering: Gently water the area to help settle the seeds into the soil without washing them away. Ensure the soil stays consistently moist, especially during dry spells.

5. Winter Conditions: As winter arrives, the seeds will experience natural cold stratification, which helps break dormancy and prepares them for germination.

Benefits of Cold Stratification By cold stratifying your seeds, you help ensure healthy germination and align plants with their natural growing cycles. This process also supports local ecosystems by enhancing biodiversity, stabilizing soil, and conserving water.

With a little preparation, you can successfully cultivate beautiful native plants that thrive in your region, including wild sunflowers, asters, goldenrods, and lupines. 

Happy gardening!

Pumpkin Rescue: Creative Ways to Reuse or Recycle!

As Halloween and fall come to a close, many of us are left with an abundance of leftover pumpkins and seasonal decorations. Rather than throwing them away, consider innovative ways to preserve what you can eat and give the rest a new purpose. Here are some clever ideas that not only help reduce waste but also dispel common pumpkin myths along the way.

Preserve What You Can Eat

One of the most rewarding ways to utilize your pumpkins is by preserving them for future meals. Fresh pumpkin can be roasted, pureed, or made into soups, pies, and other delicious dishes. If you have leftover pumpkin flesh, consider freezing it in portions. Just scoop out the insides, blend, and store in airtight containers or freezer bags.

However, be cautious: only use pumpkins that are fresh and free from mold or decay. Moldy or unsafe pumpkins can pose health risks, so ensure that any pumpkin you plan to eat is in good condition before using it.

Composting Fun

If you have leftover pumpkins that are no longer fit for consumption, composting is an excellent option. Pumpkins are biodegradable and rich in nutrients that can enhance your garden soil. Simply chop them into smaller pieces to expedite the composting process. Myth alert: Many people worry that adding pumpkins to compost will attract pests. In reality, balancing your compost with greens and browns can help prevent pest issues while creating nutrient-rich soil.

Feed Our Animal Friends

Consider donating your pumpkins to local farms or animal sanctuaries. Pigs, goats, and chickens relish pumpkin as a tasty and nutritious treat. Myth buster: There’s a common misconception that feeding animals pumpkin will make them sick. However, as long as the pumpkins are fresh and mold-free, they can be a healthy snack for livestock.

Get Crafty

Before you toss out your seasonal decor, think about how you can upcycle those pumpkins! Transform them into charming planters, candle holders, or fun bird feeders. Hollow out the pumpkins, carve a design, and fill them with soil and seeds. Myth-buster: Some believe that you can’t plant pumpkin seeds after Halloween. Not true! You can clean and dry the seeds from your pumpkins and plant them next year.

Recycling

Boise residents are encouraged to place their pumpkins in their compost carts this season. The city’s Compost Facility appreciates pumpkins during this time, as the extra moisture and nutrients help break down leaves. Check with your local waste management or agricultural offices for recycling efforts available in your area.

Natural Decorations

To maintain the cozy fall ambiance, consider using natural decorations like dried flowers or pinecones that can also be composted later. These elements enhance your home’s warmth without adding to landfill waste. 

By embracing these creative solutions for leftover pumpkins and fall decor, you not only reduce waste but also enhance your culinary and gardening experiences. So, before you toss that pumpkin, remember: every gourd deserves a second chance!

Cozy Up, Little Bugs! The Quest for Perfect Winter Hideaways!

Now that fall is upon us in southwestern Idaho, it’s the perfect time to explore whether structures like bug snugs and butterfly houses truly support overwintering insects. While these habitats can be charming additions to your garden, their effectiveness in providing shelter for beneficial insects is worth examining.

In this region, insects have diverse overwintering strategies. Many butterflies and other beneficial insects overwinter as eggs, caterpillars (larvae), or chrysalises rather than as adults. For instance, monarch butterflies migrate to warmer areas to survive the winter, while others may find refuge in leaf litter or within protective layers of plants. Given this, the role of butterfly houses in supporting overwintering populations can be limited, particularly for species that do not remain as adults during colder months.

Bug snugs can offer more significant benefits. By providing cozy spaces filled with natural materials like dried leaves, straw, and twigs, bug snugs can create ideal microhabitats for overwintering insects, including solitary bees and ladybugs. These insects often seek out sheltered spots to hibernate, and well-constructed bug snugs can help meet that need.

Additionally, a bug snug is a great option for those with smaller yards. They can be designed to fit in compact spaces, making them ideal for urban gardens. Even in limited areas, bug snugs can contribute to local biodiversity by providing shelter for beneficial insects, which is especially important in densely populated regions. Creating a bug snug can also be a fun project for families, fostering interest in gardening and nature while teaching kids about the important roles insects play in our ecosystem.

However, while bug snugs and butterfly houses may provide some shelter, they are not substitutes for natural habitats. Encouraging diverse environments in your garden is crucial. This includes planting native flora that supports the entire life cycle of butterflies and other beneficial insects. For example, host plants provide food for caterpillars, while nectar-rich flowers attract adult butterflies.

In southwestern Idaho, focusing on native plants, such as milkweed for monarchs or asters for late-season nectar, will create a more effective environment for insect populations. Allowing leaf litter to accumulate and avoiding excessive cleanup in the fall can also provide additional overwintering opportunities for insects, as many rely on this natural debris for protection.

In conclusion, while bug snugs may effectively support certain overwintering insects, butterfly houses might not be as beneficial for many butterfly species. By creating a diverse and supportive garden environment filled with native plants and natural shelters, you can enhance insect populations and foster biodiversity in your garden, ensuring a healthier ecosystem for years to come.

Frost, Freeze, and Hard Freeze: What Every Gardener Should Know

As the chill of autumn settles in, it’s crucial to understand the differences between frost, freeze, and hard freeze to protect your precious plants. Here’s a quick breakdown:

Frost: The Sneaky Chill - Frost appears when water vapor in the air deposits as ice on solid surfaces. This typically happens when temperatures dip between 33°F and 36°F, especially with light winds. While frost may only cause minor damage, it’s important to note that if the air is dry or the winds are strong, frost can be unpredictable.

Freeze: The Serious Threat - A freeze occurs when temperatures drop to 32°F or lower. This can lead to significant damage for many unprotected plants, especially if the freeze lingers for several hours.

Hard Freeze: The Plant Killer - When temperatures plunge to 28°F or lower for a few hours, we experience a hard freeze. Unfortunately, this often means the end for many plants and seasonal vegetation.

Expert Insight: Mark Longstroth from Michigan State University Extension explains it clearly: “A frost is when you see a visible layer of ice, while a freeze is simply when temperatures drop below freezing.” Sometimes, you might even spot frost while the air remains above freezing due to colder surfaces, like your car or roof.

Special Cases

Black Frost: This occurs when temperatures drop low enough to freeze plants without visible frost. Frozen plants can take on a sad, water-soaked black appearance as they perish.

Wind Freeze: A cold air mass can sweep in, causing temperatures to plummet, even with winds at play.

Protect Your Plants! Want to give your garden the best chance to survive the upcoming frosty nights? Here are some simple steps you can take:

Cover Up: Use frost fabric, sheets, or plastic to shield your plants.

Water Wisely: Give your plants a drink with warm water to help them stay resilient.

Trickle Effect: Let water run at a gentle trickle for a few days to maintain moisture—just don’t overdo it!

Wrap Young Trees: Wrapping young tree trunks helps insulate them against cold temperatures, preventing freeze damage and maintaining healthier bark during harsh winter conditions.

Pots: To overwinter potted plants, move them indoors to a cool, bright location or use a cold frame for protection. Insulate pots with mulch or wraps, group them together for a microclimate, and remember to adjust your watering schedule to prevent rot during the colder months.

For specific timing, check the Idaho Average First Frost Date Map for accurate information tailored to your county.

By taking these steps, you can help your plants brave the chilly weather and thrive until spring returns. Protect your green friends, and enjoy a flourishing garden year-round!

Understanding Soil Life: Texture and Good Fungi

The Life Within Soil

Soil is a bustling habitat teeming with life, yet much of its microbiome remains hidden from our eyes. Gardeners often seek to understand their soil better—how to test it, enhance its structure, and boost its fertility. The distinction between "soil" and "dirt" is more than just a matter of semantics; soil is a vibrant ecosystem, whereas dirt is lifeless. Soil serves as the Earth’s biological skin, supporting 95% of the food we consume and anchoring ecosystems such as forests, prairies, and agricultural fields.

Soil is more than just dirt; it is a rich tapestry composed of sand, silt, and clay. The term "soil texture" refers to the proportions of these three components, which significantly influence key factors such as drainage, water retention, and nutrient availability. For instance, "sandy loam" has a higher sand content, allowing for excellent drainage, while "clay loam" features more clay, which retains moisture and nutrients. "Silty loam," with its greater silt content, offers a smooth feel and balances drainage and retention. The ideal "nice loam" contains a harmonious mix of sand, silt, and clay, making it perfect for gardening.

Soil Texture:  To better understand your soil’s texture, you can conduct a simple hands-on test.  You'll need a shovel, water, and, of course, your hands. Here’s how:

1. Dig: Excavate 6-12 inches into the soil and moisten it if it's dry.

2. Sample: Collect a cup of soil from at least 6 inches below the surface.
3. Test: Perform Tests A and B in multiple locations and at varying depths.
Test A
Rub some moist soil between your fingers. You’ll notice that sand feels gritty like sugar, silt has a smooth, silky texture reminiscent of flour, and clay feels sticky like dough.
Test B
Squeeze the soil into a ball, then pinch it between your thumb and index finger to form a "ribbon." Sandy soils struggle to maintain a ribbon shape, while silty and clay-rich soils excel at it—heavy clay can even hold a ribbon several inches long.

For a more detailed analysis, consider getting an agricultural soil report, which can reveal your soil’s pH, organic matter content, mineral levels, nitrate concentration, and texture. This information is invaluable for plant selection and overall garden health.

One other remarkable aspect of soil is the  presence of mycorrhizae, beneficial fungi that form symbiotic relationships with plants. These fungi enhance nutrient absorption and improve soil health. To learn more about mycorrhizae, check out Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott’s detailed descriptions and images.

Growing a Revolution
Soil plays a crucial role in the water cycle, filtering and gradually releasing water to streams, rivers, and lakes year-round. It breaks down organic matter—such as fallen leaves, animal waste, and deceased plants—into essential nutrients, recycling them for plant growth.

David Montgomery, a prominent advocate for soil health, emphasizes the importance of revitalizing our soils. With one-third of arable land lying dormant, nurturing our soil is vital for healing the planet and feeding a growing population.

Whether you're a scientist, a farmer, or a backyard gardener, the resources linked below will deepen your understanding of the world thriving just beneath your feet.

Further Resources
Explore engaging videos and interactive games from the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center http://forces.si.edu/soils/

Discover soil health information sponsored by the U.S. government https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/conservation-basics/natural-resource-concerns/soils/soil-health  

Almost Time to Put Your Garden to Bed for the Winter

"Every gardener knows that under the cloak of 

winter  lies a miracle  ... a seed waiting to sprout, a bulb opening to the light, a bud straining to unfurl.  And the anticipation nurtures our dream."                      -  Barbara Winkler

Some of you, at the end of the gardening season, are so ready to be done and put your tools away.  However, placing your garden to rest for the winter is planting the best seed for success in the next year.  Help your garden thrive, not just survive, with these few tips to get ready for next spring...  

Clean Up – Leave seeded flower stems for winter food and places for native bees to overwinter. If it’s healthy, not only are you allowing all of the remaining energy left in the plant to feed the roots, but you are also providing valuable habitat for many of our native pollinators. They will use these structures to overwinter, perhaps having already laid their larvae within the stems. Structures from grasses and other hollow-stemmed perennials are especially valuable. Old vines provide places for insects and diseases to hide. Throw away plants that are suspect for bugs and disease to avoid passing them on to the next season.  Designate an area for a compost pile if you don’t already have one.  Add what you can to the compost pile or leave as mulch on the soil.  

Soil Testing – This is a great time to get your soil analyzed because if you find out now that your soil needs amended, you can apply it in the fall so that it has all winter to work its way into the soil.  

Crimson Clover Cover Crop

Cover Crop – In some areas of your garden you might consider planting a cover crop.  They improve soil fertility, structure, water retention, and suppress annual winter weeds.  

Leaves – Rake fallen leaves into areas of the garden that do not have a cover crop.  Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds, and around shrubs and trees. Leaves rot very quickly and you will be surprised how many you can work into your soil.  Leaf mulch encourages beneficial earthworms, soil microbes, and overwintering bumblebees.  They are also a great compost addition. 
Tools – Clean up your tools before storing them.  A wire brush can help get the dirt off and oil can maintain the metal parts to keep from rusting.  

Garden Journaling – Keep adding notes to your journal so you can keep track of your successes or what you could have done better, what you might want to try again or simply remove from the list. 

Tend your crops in your cold frames - carrots, lettuce, spinach, etc. Easy Peasy! 

Now relax, close your eyes, dream about spring, and await those seed and gardening catalogs!  

Growing Raspberries in Southwest Idaho

Southwest Idaho provides an exceptional climate for cultivating raspberries, making it an excellent region for growing these delectable fruits. The area's climate, characterized by warm summers and well-draining soils, is particularly well-suited to raspberry cultivation. Raspberries can be divided into two primary categories: summer-bearing (floricane) and fall-bearing (primocane). Summer-bearing varieties produce one bountiful crop in early to midsummer, while fall-bearing varieties offer two harvests—one in mid-summer and another in late summer or early fall. Additionally, raspberries come in four distinct colors: red, yellow, black, and purple, each bringing unique flavors and aesthetic appeal to your garden.

For optimal growth, raspberries thrive in sandy loam with excellent drainage. Avoid planting in areas prone to standing water or poor drainage, as these conditions can lead to root rot. A location that enjoys at least 6 hours of full sun each day is ideal for robust plant development. To ensure a successful start, prepare the planting site by removing any perennial weeds that could compete with the raspberries for nutrients. Plant raspberries as soon as the ground is workable in spring, and use a low-chloride fertilizer to promote healthy growth. A balanced “complete” fertilizer containing phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, and possibly other essential nutrients is highly recommended. For detailed information on fertilizing raspberries, refer to this excellent publication.

Consistent watering and proper annual pruning are key to a successful raspberry harvest. Maintain regular irrigation from the bloom stage through harvest to achieve the best berry size, but be cautious of overwatering. Raspberries are particularly sensitive to excessive moisture and can develop root rot in overly wet conditions. Watering directly at the base of the plants is preferable to using overhead sprinklers, which can increase the risk of fruit and cane diseases. Effective pruning enhances light and air circulation around the plants, helps remove dead or weak canes, and minimizes disease and pest issues.

Summer-bearing raspberries should be pruned twice a year: once in late fall to early spring and again following the summer harvest. Fall-bearing raspberries should be pruned in late fall after the final harvest. For comprehensive pruning techniques, the University of Idaho’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences YouTube channel offers valuable instructional videos.

With the right care and attention, cultivating raspberries can be a deeply rewarding experience. By adhering to these practices, you can look forward to a plentiful and satisfying harvest, bringing the joy of homegrown raspberries to your table.

Jelly, Jam, Preserves, and Marmalade - Yummy!

Fresh, spreadable fruit in the form of jam, jelly, preserves, or marmalade, might possibly be summer's sweetest reward. The best part is that they are easy to make and can be enjoyed long after you put your garden to bed. So, what is the difference between each of these spreadable options? 

Before we dive in, it helps to know that there are two main factors that turn fruit into a thick, spreadable texture: heat (from cooking) and pectin. When fruit is heated, it will lose liquid, causing the fruit to reduce to a firmer state. Pectin is naturally-occurring in fruit and happens to also make fruit thicken when cooked. However, not all fruit contains enough pectin to reach a firm texture, so many spreadable fruit recipes call for additional pectin.

Jelly:
Jelly is the firmest and clearest of the sweet, spreadable options. The fruit is cooked and strained so only the juice ends up in the final product. Jelly is so firm that you could turn the jar over and slide the jelly out in one solid piece.

Jam:
Jam is a chunkier version of jelly. Jam has more fruit pieces and is slightly looser in texture. Chopped or pureed fruit is cooked with sugar, so pieces of fruit end up in the final product. Jams are not clear and not solid like their jelly cousin. Here's a video for strawberry freezer jam!

Preserves:
Preserves are like jam but contain more and bigger pieces of fruit. Preserves have the least gel-like consistency. They are great for serving with cheeses and meat dishes.

Marmalade:
Marmalade is a preserve, but it is made only with citrus. The whole fruit, rind and all, create a bitter-sweet spreadable delight. Lemon, orange, and grapefruit make great marmalades. Marmalades are aromatic with complex flavors and oils from the citrus peels.

Jam, jelly, preserves, and marmalade start out almost the same, but take different forms depending on how they are processed. Whether you like your fruit a spreadable solid, with small pieces of fruit, with large pieces of fruit, or you want the complex flavors of citrus, there is always something good you can choose to put on your toast.