Friday, August 15, 2025

Late Summer Perennial Division: Give Your Plants a Fresh Start


By mid- to late August in Boise, most of our early summer blooms have finished their show. The garden settles into a slower, late-season rhythm: greens deepen, seed heads form, and those long, golden evenings hint at autumn’s arrival. It’s the perfect time to give some of your hard-working perennials a fresh start by dividing them.

Division is like a spa day for plants—it reinvigorates growth, prevents overcrowding, and even gives you extra divisions to plant elsewhere or share with friends. In our high-desert climate, with hot summers and fast-cooling autumn nights, late-summer division is a smart move. The warm soil helps roots reestablish, and cooler evenings reduce transplant stress. As the University of Minnesota Extension points out, dividing perennials stimulates new growth, encourages more vigorous blooming, and improves airflow to help reduce disease pressure. 

The best candidates for this timing are spring- and early summer-bloomers. Day-lilies, bearded iris (divided right after their flowers fade), cheerful Shasta daisies, and peonies all respond well to late August or early September division. Creeping phlox, shade-loving hostas, and sturdy yarrow also benefit from this seasonal refresh. Fall bloomers like asters and mums are best left until spring so their floral display isn’t interrupted.

Some of our native perennials can be treated the same way. Coneflowers and goldenrod both respond beautifully to late-summer division, sending up vigorous new shoots the following spring. Blanketflower and prairie smoke also divide well now. Others—like penstemon, globe mallow, and showy milkweed—tend to resist root disturbance and are better propagated from seed or cuttings rather than being dug and split.

Your plants will often tell you when they need attention. A thinning or bare center in the clump, smaller or fewer blooms, or an enthusiastic spread that’s crowding out its neighbors are all signs that a division is in order. When you’re ready, start by watering thoroughly the day before so the roots are well-hydrated. Work carefully with a spade or fork to lift the entire root ball, keeping as much root intact as possible. Then gently tease the clump apart by hand or use a sharp knife to create new sections, each with healthy roots and several strong growing points. Prepare the planting area with compost to give your divisions a nutrient boost, and replant promptly at the same depth they were growing before. If you’re not ready to place them in the garden, you can also pot up divisions in containers, keeping them watered and sheltered until you’re ready to plant, donate, or share them. Water deeply, and keep the soil consistently moist until you see new growth.


For the smoothest recovery, work in the cool of morning or evening, and if the sun is intense, offer a bit of temporary shade for a few days. A light mulch will help regulate soil temperature and hold in moisture.

By tending to this now, you’ll set the stage for stronger, healthier plants next spring—and perhaps even have a few extras to share with friends or donate to a community plant sale. Sometimes, the best way to help a plant thrive is to give it the gift of space and a fresh beginning.

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Friday, August 8, 2025

Repurpose your Wine Corks in the Garden - Fun!!!

7 Easy Ways to Repurpose Wine Corks in Your Garden

By Viveka Neveln  Published on July 23, 2025, in Better Homes & Gardens   

                                             

Don't toss your wine corks—put them to use in your garden! Whether you have a whole collection saved for that craft project you keep putting off, or just one or two, corks can enhance your outdoor space right now in lots of clever ways. With just a few tools and supplies, here's how to reuse wine corks for pretty and practical purposes around your garden.


1. Plant Markers

Turn wine corks into simple DIY plant markers with just a permanent marker and wooden skewers. Write the plant's name on the side of the cork with your marker, or you could get fancy and use a wood-burning pen, if you have one. Then stab the sharp end of a skewer into one end of your cork, depending on if you want to read the word from the top going down or starting at the bottom end of the cork.


Your new plant markers will add rustic, homespun charm to veggie beds, herb gardens, and container gardens. The cork will hold up well to the elements, lasting at least a growing season.


2. Pot Feet

Pots and planters drain better when raised up a little from a flat surface. You can buy pot feet or plant stands to do the job, but wine corks offer another simple solution. Cut a few corks in half the short way, then glue them to the bottom of your pots before filling with soil.


Make sure to cut the corks so the pieces are exactly the same height so you can keep the pot level. The extra space allows water to flow away from the pot's base, which helps avoid root rot as well as staining on patios or decks. You can also set the pot in a saucer, where the cork feet will prevent the bottom of the pot from sitting in water, which can keep the soil too wet.


3. Mulch for Pots

Natural corks (as opposed to the synthetic ones) are made from the bark of cork oak trees, and like the bark from other trees, you can use it as mulch. Break up your leftover wine corks into small chunks, then layer them around the base of your plants as DIY mulch. Because cork is buoyant, it's best to use this mulch in container gardens where the rim of your pot will stop them from floating away in a downpour. Just like other types of organic mulch, your cork mulch will help conserve moisture, stop weeds, and eventually will break down into the soil.


4. Make a Garden Kneeling Pad

If you have a large collection of corks, or have some wine-drinking friends who'd like to contribute to the cause, you can make a simple kneeling pad for gardening. Hot glue the corks side-by-side in a rectangular shape. Aim for your total surface to measure 21-36 inches long and 14-18 inches wide. Glue your cork rectangle on top of an inexpensive outdoor waterproof mat for extra stability. Trim the mat to fit the corks if necessary. The corks will help cushion your knees next time you need to weed or plant.


5. Fairy Garden Accessories 

Let your imagination loose to wine corks in all
sorts of fanciful ways for fairy gardens. For example, you can stand the corks on end to serve as edging for a tiny garden path, shown above. Or you can slice them into coins that can serve as stepping stones. Halve your corks lengthwise, and use them to create adorable, log-like steps. Give one of these half cork pieces four toothpick legs, and you have a rustic garden bench perfect for a fairy scene.


6. Topper for Stakes

Bamboo poles or other types of stakes make sturdy supports for tall veggies and flowers. But they can become a safety hazard when you're working around them. Top the ends with wine corks to help make them less damaging if one does poke you in the eye. Plus, you can paint the corks with bright colors to help make the ends of stakes more visible.


7. Compost Your Corks

If you're not feeling crafty but you don't want to just throw out your wine corks, simply add them to your compost bin. Cut them up into small pieces to help them break down faster. They count as a "brown" material in your compost, which should be layered with "green" materials for the composting process to work best.

Monday, August 4, 2025

Happy Lawn, Happy Gardener!

     The first step to having a healthy and attractive lawn and controlling weeds is choosing a grass variety best adapted to your lifestyle and available resources. Factors to consider would be high traffic, shaded and sunny areas, type of soil, available water and amount of time available to care for the lawn.

Irrigate properly to help reduce annual weed infestation. Light frequent irrigation encourages weed seed germination, even if a pre-emergence herbicide has been applied. Water 1- 1.5 inches per watering. Do not water again until you see signs of wilt. Turf will also turn a shade of blue green when it is water stressed. The best time to irrigate your lawn is between 10p.m and 6a.m. 

Mowing  The preferred mowing height for all species of grass is 2 ½ - 3 inches. The minimum height that any lawn should be mowed is 2 inches. Mowing to heights less than 2 inches results in decreased drought and heat tolerance plus higher incidences of insect, disease, and weed problems.  The seeds of some weeds require high light intensity to germinate. The shaded environment near the soil surface in a high mown lawn helps deter weed germination. Mowing frequently enough that no more than one third of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. If the mowing height is two inches the grass should be mowed when it is 3 inches tall. If the mowing height is 3 inches, it should be mowed when it's about 4 inches. Keep your mower blade sharp to avoid shredding and fraying leaf blades.  Grass clippings should be allowed to fall back into the yard to provide natural nitrogen in the soil. 

https://bugwoodcloud.org/images/768x512/1391355.jpgPre-emergence herbicides   A Pre-emergent is activated in the top layer of soil where the weed seeds sprout, and by design it stops the plant from growing. A pre-emergent is NOT effective once the weeds are showing. Spreading out the herbicide so that it is evenly distributed is critical. It must also be watered into the soil within the appointed time period. The soil must remain undisturbed in order to maintain the barrier. A pre-emergent has to be replaced, or replenished. Pre-emergence should be applied two to four weeks before the seeds start to germinate in mid  March to early April depending on weather. Warm moist springs cause earlier germination. The temperature of the soil ( 55-60 degrees)  as it starts to warm up in the spring is going to be the primary indicator of the pending arrival of various weed species. With normal weather patterns pre-emergence herbicides give good to excellent control of crabgrass, foxtail, and barnyard grass.  Do not over seed into areas that have recently been treated with pre- emergence.

https://bugwoodcloud.org/images/768x512/1120214.jpgPost- emergence herbicides Perennial broadleaf weeds can be controlled by post emergent herbicides. It is important to properly identify the weed before choosing an herbicide. Some common perennial  broadleaf weeds in lawns are dandelion, field bindweed  ( morning glory), White clover, curly dock, ground ivy, Canada thistle, broad leaf plantain, buckhorn plantain and yarrow. The best time to control perennial weeds is in late summer or early fall when weeds are preparing for winter. 

Core cultivate ( aerate) the lawn at least once a year to reduce compaction and to  control thatch. 

Fertilization Fertilizer may be needed if the lawn has poor color and vigor, doesn’t recover from traffic or more weeds are present. Nitrogen is the most important nutrient for lawns. Do not use Phosphorus or Potassium unless soil test indicates it is needed. Cool season grasses should be fertilized in fall, late spring and little in the summer. Warm season grasses should be fertilized late May, June, avoid fertilizing in late summer and fall. 

Sunday, July 27, 2025

Know How to Grow - Become a 2C Master Gardener!

Have you ever been elbow deep in dirt and wondered why or what is happening to your plant? Do you wish you knew more about your soil and how to make your plants happier? Are you looking for research-based information that will allow you to reduce pesticide use and help work together with beneficial bugs? If you said yes to any of the above, YOU ARE NOT ALONE! 

Become an Idaho Master Gardener in Canyon County - learn the art and science of horticulture! Our series of classes provide you with a variety of ways to improve your gardening skills...and share your passion and knowledge with others. Do you want to connect with other gardeners in your community? Then you will not want to miss this opportunity! 

Classroom learning
The Idaho Master Gardener program consists of TWO phases:
  
Phase One: This 50 hours of classroom training provides a stress-free, engaging learning environment. Fresh coffee, water, and tea at each session is also a great perk! Maybe even food...

Phase Two: After the classroom training, you will complete 30 hours of practicum education via volunteer service. 

Hands-on field trips
2cTurf & Team site visit
You will also have the opportunity to choose from focus areas in which you would like to complete your hands-on experiences with various teams: Tree & Turf, Integrated Pest Management, Junior Master Gardener, Outreach, Plant Sale, and Social Media. Teams build comradery and skills. FUN, too!
Start Date: University of Idaho Extension, Canyon County (Caldwell, ID) Idaho Student Master Gardener classes start September 10, 2025 and run through April 15, 2026.  Classes are held on every other Wednesday morning from 8:30am-12pm at the University of Idaho Research & Extension Center, 1904 E. Chicago Street, Caldwell, Idaho 83605.  

Cost: The cost for the 2026 Canyon County Master Gardener program is $280 to be paid by 8/29/2025 (scholarships and payment plans are available).  This cost includes a handbook, a soil test, several hands-on labs, field trips, a background check, a Master Gardener t-shirt and a name badge at the end of the course.

Application Deadline: The deadline to apply for the Canyon County Idaho Master Gardener program is August 15, 2025Get your spot early as space is limited in class.  We at the U of I Extension want everyone to be comfortable and safe while learning about horticulture. We offer in-person classes (while spots are available).  Complete your application today!

IPM Scouting Walk
The Idaho Master Gardener program is NOT a gardening class, rather a VOLUNTEER and DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM.  The University of Idaho Master Gardener Volunteer Program serves as an educational and volunteer organization. All course participants must be willing and able to contribute 30 hours of practicum volunteer service prior to September 30, 2026, to complete certification. There will be plenty of time and lots of opportunities to complete your hours. We look forward to having you join our team.
Helping people grow is what we do. 

Apply here 👉https://forms.office.com/r/E84saNVKKatext or https://bit.ly/2025-26_MGapplication.

Call us today 👉  (208) 459-6003 

Follow us here 👉

Facebook @2CMasterGardeners   

 Instagram @2cMasterGardeners 

Friday, July 18, 2025

Managing Heat Stress in Idaho Gardens

          
As Idaho summer heats up and dries out, gardeners across the state are feeling it—wilting veggies, crispy lawns, and blooms that barely last a day. Even the best-tended gardens can struggle in a heatwave. Knowing the signs of heat stress and how to respond can help you keep things growing through the toughest stretch of summer.

What Is Heat Stress?

When temperatures climb high enough, plants can’t cool themselves efficiently through transpiration. Moisture evaporates faster than roots can replace it. To conserve water, plants close their stomata—but that slows growth, reduces yield, and weakens the plant. Long stretches of heat can cause real damage, and in some cases, even kill the plant.

Vegetable Gardens: First to Feel the Heat

Vegetables, especially those in full sun or shallow soils, are usually the first to suffer.

Common Signs:

  • Wilting at midday, even when the soil is moist

  • Blossoms dropping from tomatoes, peppers, beans, and squash

  • Curling or rolling leaves (especially on tomatoes and corn)

  • Sunscald on fruit and foliage
  • Bolting in cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, cilantro, and broccoli

When days top 94–96°F and nights stay above 70–75°F, tomato blossoms may drop and pollination can fail. Beans and peppers are even more heat-sensitive—blossoms can drop when temps reach the low 90s.

Tips to Beat the Heat:

  • Water early and deeply so roots get moisture before the heat peaks
  • Mulch with straw, shredded leaves, or compost to keep soil cool

  • Use shade cloth or temporary shade for vulnerable crops

  • Hold off on fertilizing during heatwaves—new growth is too fragile

  • Group plants with similar water needs for better care

Always check soil moisture a few inches down. A damp surface can be deceiving.


Container and Raised Bed Gardening: Needs Extra TLC

Containers and raised beds are efficient and popular in Idaho gardens—but they dry out fast and heat up quickly in the sun.

Containers:

  • Use light-colored or large pots to help keep roots cool

  • Check moisture daily (or twice daily during extreme heat)

  • Add mulch to container surfaces to reduce water loss

  • Move pots to afternoon shade if you can, or use umbrellas or shade cloth

  • Skip the fertilizer until the weather cools a bit

Raised Beds:

  • Amend with compost to hold more water

  • Water deeply and consistently—daily in temps over 90°F

  • Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to water efficiently

  • Add 2–3 inches of mulch to moderate soil temperature swings

  • Shade cool-season crops like lettuce and spinach to delay bolting

Raised beds and containers can be powerhouses—but only if you stay ahead of the heat.

Lawns: Tough, But Not Invincible

Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and tall fescue thrive in spring and fall. But when summer highs hang out above the mid-80s, even tough turf shows stress.

Heat-Stressed Lawn Signs:

  • Grass looks dull green or bluish

  • Footprints linger long after walking

  • Growth slows, blades feel dry or brittle

Keep Lawns Alive Through Heat:

  • Mow high—3–4 inches helps shade the soil

  • Use a mulching mower to keep moisture and nutrients in the lawn

  • Water deeply, aiming for 1–1.5 inches per week in 2–3 sessions

  • Sharpen mower blades to reduce tearing

  • Avoid fertilizing in peak heat

A lawn under stress doesn’t need rescuing—just steady, gentle care. With consistent watering and mowing, it’ll bounce back strong once cooler weather arrives.

Flower Beds: Fragile but Recoverable

Annuals and tender perennials often struggle most in summer heat. Blooms fade fast, leaves scorch, and plants may wilt even after watering.

Watch For:

  • Drooping leaves

  • Smaller or faded flowers

  • Brown leaf tips

  • Early flower drop

Flower Bed Survival Tips:

  • Mulch to keep roots cool and moist

  • Water at the base of plants to reduce disease and improve efficiency

  • Choose heat-tough favorites like zinnias, lantana, marigolds, and black-eyed Susans

  • Shade delicate flowers using nearby plants or lightweight covers

  • Deadhead often to keep blooms coming without over-stressing the plant

Container-grown flowers may need water once or twice a day during heatwaves—and they’ll appreciate a break from that blazing afternoon sun.

Resilience Through the Heat

You can’t change the weather, but you can outsmart it. With a few adjustments—like early watering, smart mulching, temporary shade, and timing your tasks—you can help your garden survive and thrive through the hottest stretch of the year. Plants are surprisingly resilient. With a little help, they’ll bounce back beautifully once the heat breaks.

Additional Reading: