Gardening for Gratitude: Finding Thanks in the Quiet Season

As the garden quiets under the soft gray skies of November, it offers something that can be easy to overlook in the rush of planting and harvesting: time to reflect. Gardening connects us — not only to the soil beneath our feet, but also to the broader rhythm of community and care. When the growing slows, gratitude has space to grow.

Gratitude for the Living Soil

Beneath every patch of mulch and layer of fallen leaves, the soil is still very much alive. Even as the air cools, countless microbes, fungi, and invertebrates continue the slow work of breaking down organic matter and returning nutrients to the earth. Taking a moment to appreciate that unseen activity reminds us that rest and renewal are part of the same cycle.

A gardener’s gratitude can begin here: for healthy soil, for the worms and fungi that enrich it, and for the patience it teaches us every season.

Gratitude for Stewardship

Gardening teaches humility — we don’t control nature; we collaborate with it.
By planting with purpose, conserving water, or leaving seed heads for birds and beneficial insects, we practice gratitude through action. Even when the garden sleeps, these small choices continue to support life through winter.

Our gratitude deepens when we recognize that every act of care — composting, conserving, or simply noticing — sustains the living systems that sustain us.

Gratitude for Community

As the garden settles into its winter rest, many of us find ourselves with a little more time — time we once spent watering, weeding, or harvesting. November offers the chance to turn that energy outward, to nurture something beyond our own backyards.

Gratitude can take root in new places when we lend a hand in our communities. Local food banks, shelters, and meal programs need extra help during the colder months. Animal rescues, libraries, and senior centers often welcome volunteers, too. Even small acts — checking in on a neighbor, raking leaves for someone who can’t, or donating fresh produce or canned goods — remind us that the spirit of gardening is really about growing connection and care.

Just as we tend the soil to nourish life, volunteering tends the human side of our shared landscape. Every small kindness enriches the place we all call home.

Gratitude for the Seasons of Rest

It’s tempting to see November as an ending, but the garden’s dormancy is its own kind of beginning.
The leaves that fall become next year’s humus. The perennials that fade prepare their roots for renewal. And we, too, can slow down, take stock, and dream ahead — not with urgency, but with appreciation for all the quiet work that happens unseen.

Taking It Forward

As you plan for the next season, maybe start your list with thanks:

To the soil that fed your garden.

To the pollinators and wildlife who share our spaces.

To the neighbors and volunteers who strengthen our communities.

And to the cycle of growth, rest, and renewal that continues, year after year.

Gratitude, like compost, deepens the more you turn it.

Harvesting & Storing Potatoes for Winter Eating!

 Potatoes are vegetables that are easy to grow and also store well over winter if handled properly. The time between planting and harvesting of mid-season and late varieties of potatoes typically ranges from 90 to 120 days. Once harvested, Idaho potatoes require careful harvesting and storage to ensure they remain fresh and flavorful through the winter months. Here’s a guide to help you through the process.

Harvesting Potatoes
Typically, Idaho potatoes are ready for harvest about 2-3 weeks after the plants have died back. Look for yellowing leaves and stems. Use a pitchfork or shovel to gently lift the tubers from the soil. Be cautious to avoid piercing the potatoes, as this can lead to rot during storage. After harvesting, brush off any excess soil but avoid washing them. Moisture can encourage rot, so it’s best to keep them dry until you’re ready to store.

Storing Potatoes (click here to watch a video)
Before storage, allow your potatoes to cure in a dark, cool place (around 45-60°F) for about 1-2 weeks. This helps to heal any cuts and toughens their skin. Potatoes should be stored in a dark, well-ventilated area, ideally at temperatures between 35-40°F. A root cellar, basement, or a cool garage works well. Avoid exposure to light, which can cause greening and bitterness. Use burlap sacks, cardboard boxes, or wooden crates to store your potatoes. Avoid plastic bags, as they trap moisture and can lead to spoilage. Periodically inspect your stored potatoes. Remove any that show signs of spoilage to prevent the spread to healthy ones.

With the right care, you can enjoy the taste of potatoes long after the harvest season. By following these tips for harvesting and storing, you’ll enjoy your garden’s bounty throughout the winter months.

Cozy Up, Little Bugs! The Quest for Perfect Winter Hideways!

Now that fall is upon us in southwestern Idaho, it's the perfect time to explore whether structures like bug snugs and butterfly houses truly support overwintering insects. While these habitats can be charming additions to your garden, their effectiveness in providing shelter for beneficial insects is worth examining.
In this region, insects have diverse overwintering strategies. Many butterflies and other beneficial insects overwinter as eggs, caterpillars (larvae), or chrysalises rather than as adults. For instance, monarch butterflies migrate to warmer areas to survive the winter, while others may find refuge in leaf litter or within protective layers of plants. Given this, the role of butterfly houses in supporting overwintering populations can be limited, particularly for species that do not remain as adults during colder months.

Bug snugs can offer more significant benefits. By providing cozy spaces filled with natural materials like dried leaves, straw, and twigs, bug snugs can create ideal microhabitats for overwintering insects, including solitary bees and ladybugs. These insects often seek out sheltered spots to hibernate, and well-constructed bug snugs can help meet that need.
Additionally, a bug snug is a great option for those with smaller yards. They can be designed to fit in compact spaces, making them ideal for urban gardens. Even in limited areas, bug snugs can contribute to local biodiversity by providing shelter for beneficial insects, which is especially important in densely populated regions. Creating a bug snug can also be a fun project for families, fostering interest in gardening and nature while teaching kids about the important roles insects play in our ecosystem.However, while bug snugs and butterfly houses may provide some shelter, they are not substitutes for natural habitats. Encouraging diverse environments in your garden is crucial. This includes planting native flora that supports the entire life cycle of butterflies and other beneficial insects. For example, host plants provide food for caterpillars, while nectar-rich flowers attract adult butterflies.
In southwestern Idaho, focusing on native plants, such as milkweed for monarchs or asters for late-season nectar, will create a more effective environment for insect populations. Allowing leaf litter to accumulate and avoiding excessive cleanup in the fall can also provide additional overwintering opportunities for insects, as many rely on this natural debris for protection.
In conclusion, while bug snugs may effectively support certain overwintering insects, butterfly houses might not be as beneficial for many butterfly species. By creating a diverse and supportive garden environment filled with native plants and natural shelters, you can enhance insect populations and foster biodiversity in your garden, ensuring a healthier ecosystem for years to come.

Time to put your garden to bed for the winter

 "Every gardener knows that under the cloak of winter  lies a miracle  ... a seed waiting to sprout, a bulb opening to the light, a bud straining to unfurl.  And the anticipation nurtures our dream."                      -  Barbara Winkler

Some of you, at the end of the gardening season, are so ready to be done and put your tools away.  However, placing your garden to rest for the winter is planting the best seed for success in the next year.  Help your garden thrive, not just survive, with these few tips to get ready for next spring...  

Clean Up – Leave seeded flower stems for winter food and places for native bees to overwinter. If it’s healthy, not only are you allowing all of the remaining energy left in the plant to feed the roots, but you are also providing valuable habitat for many of our native pollinators. They will use these structures to overwinter, perhaps having already laid their larvae within the stems. Structures from grasses and other hollow-stemmed perennials are especially valuable. Old vines provide places for insects and diseases to hide. Throw away plants that are suspect for bugs and disease to avoid passing them on to the next season.  Designate an area for a compost pile if you don’t already have one.  Add what you can to the compost pile or leave as mulch on the soil.  

Soil Testing – This is a great time to get your soil analyzed because if you find out now that your soil needs amended, you can apply it in the fall so that it has all winter to work its way into the soil.  

Crimson Clover Cover Crop

Cover Crop – In some areas of your garden you might consider planting a cover crop.  They improve soil fertility, structure, water retention, and suppress annual winter weeds.  

Leaves – Rake fallen leaves into areas of the garden that do not have a cover crop.  Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds, and around shrubs and trees. Leaves rot very quickly and you will be surprised how many you can work into your soil.  Leaf mulch encourages beneficial earthworms, soil microbes, and overwintering bumblebees.  They are also a great compost addition. 

Tools – Clean up your tools before storing them.  A wire brush can help get the dirt off and oil can maintain the metal parts to keep from rusting.  

Garden Journaling – Keep adding notes to your journal so you can keep track of your successes or what you could have done better, what you might want to try again or simply remove from the list. 

Tend your crops in your cold frames - carrots, lettuce, spinach, etc. Easy Peasy! 

Now relax, close your eyes, dream about spring, and await those seed and gardening catalogs!  

Pumpkin Rescue: Creative Ways to Reuse or Recycle!

As Halloween and fall come to a close, many of us are left with an abundance of leftover pumpkins and seasonal decorations. Rather than throwing them away, consider innovative ways to preserve what you can eat and give the rest a new purpose. Here are some clever ideas that not only help reduce waste but also dispel common pumpkin myths along the way.

Preserve What You Can Eat

One of the most rewarding ways to utilize your pumpkins is by preserving them for future meals. Fresh pumpkin can be roasted, pureed, or made into soups, pies, and other delicious dishes. If you have leftover pumpkin flesh, consider freezing it in portions. Just scoop out the insides, blend, and store in airtight containers or freezer bags.

However, be cautious: only use pumpkins that are fresh and free from mold or decay. Moldy or unsafe pumpkins can pose health risks, so ensure that any pumpkin you plan to eat is in good condition before using it.

Composting Fun

If you have leftover pumpkins that are no longer fit for consumption, composting is an excellent option. Pumpkins are biodegradable and rich in nutrients that can enhance your garden soil. Simply chop them into smaller pieces to expedite the composting process. Myth alert: Many people worry that adding pumpkins to compost will attract pests. In reality, balancing your compost with greens and browns can help prevent pest issues while creating nutrient-rich soil.

Feed Our Animal Friends

Consider donating your pumpkins to local farms or animal sanctuaries. Pigs, goats, and chickens relish pumpkin as a tasty and nutritious treat. Myth buster: There’s a common misconception that feeding animals pumpkin will make them sick. However, as long as the pumpkins are fresh and mold-free, they can be a healthy snack for livestock.

Get Crafty

Before you toss out your seasonal decor, think about how you can upcycle those pumpkins! Transform them into charming planters, candle holders, or fun bird feeders. Hollow out the pumpkins, carve a design, and fill them with soil and seeds. Myth-buster: Some believe that you can’t plant pumpkin seeds after Halloween. Not true! You can clean and dry the seeds from your pumpkins and plant them next year.

Recycling

Boise residents are encouraged to place their pumpkins in their compost carts this season. The city’s Compost Facility appreciates pumpkins during this time, as the extra moisture and nutrients help break down leaves. Check with your local waste management or agricultural offices for recycling efforts available in your area.

Natural Decorations

To maintain the cozy fall ambiance, consider using natural decorations like dried flowers or pinecones that can also be composted later. These elements enhance your home’s warmth without adding to landfill waste. 

By embracing these creative solutions for leftover pumpkins and fall decor, you not only reduce waste but also enhance your culinary and gardening experiences. So, before you toss that pumpkin, remember: every gourd deserves a second chance!

Frost to Hard Freeze: A Gardener’s Guide to Surviving the Fall Chill

As the chill of autumn settles in, it’s crucial to understand the differences between frost, freeze, and hard freeze to protect your precious plants.

Frost: Frost appears when water vapor in the air deposits as ice on solid surfaces. This typically happens when temperatures dip between 33°F and 36°F, especially with light winds. While frost may only cause minor damage, it’s important to note that if the air is dry or the winds are strong, frost can be unpredictable. Mark Longstroth from Michigan State University Extension explains, “A frost is when you see a visible layer of ice, while a freeze is simply when temperatures drop below freezing.” Sometimes, you might even spot frost while the air remains above freezing due to colder surfaces, like your car or roof.

Freeze: A freeze occurs when temperatures drop to 32°F or lower. This can lead to significant damage for many unprotected plants, especially if the freeze lingers for several hours. 

Hard Freeze: When temperatures plunge to 28°F or lower for a few hours, we experience a hard freeze. Unfortunately, this often means the end for many plants and seasonal vegetation.

Black Frost: This occurs when temperatures drop low enough to freeze plants without visible frost. Frozen plants can take on a sad, water-soaked black appearance as they perish.

Wind Freeze: A cold air mass can sweep in, causing temperatures to plummet, even with winds at play.

For gardeners who want to extend the life of their garden, here are some simple actions you can take:

1. Cover your plants. Use frost fabric, sheets, or plastic to shield your plants.

2. Water wisely by giving your plants a drink with warm water to help them stay resilient.

3. Let water run at a gentle trickle for a few days to maintain moisture—just don’t overdo it!
4. Wrap young tree trunks to help insulate them against cold temperatures, preventing freeze damage and maintaining healthier bark during harsh winter conditions.
5. Overwinter potted plants by moving them indoors to a cool, bright location or using a cold frame for protection. Insulate pots with mulch or wraps, group them together for a microclimate, and remember to adjust your watering schedule to prevent rot during the colder months.

For specific timing, check the Idaho Average First Frost Date Map for accurate information tailored to your county.

By taking these steps, you can help your plants brave the chilly weather and thrive until spring returns. Protect your green friends, and enjoy a flourishing garden year-round!

Frogs and Toads in Our Backyard Ecosystems

Have you ever noticed frogs and toads in your garden? Has their population on your property increased or decreased over the years? Frogs and toads play an important role in many ecosystems. Gardeners can take steps to build habitat for frogs which will not only benefit their garden but other species as well.

Frogs control pest populations that carry disease and damage crops. As tadpoles, frogs feed on mosquito larvae. When they develop into frogs, they eat mosquitos and other flying pests. Frogs are considered a keystone species which means they consume many other things, are consumed by other things in the food web, or are linked to other species in various ways. Mammals, birds, insects, and invertebrates are linked to each other within the ecosystem food web by frogs. 

Declining numbers of frogs can adversely affect the food web but home gardeners can take steps to protect their habitats by making simple modifications to their property and garden areas. For example, planting low-lying shrubs or plants will allow frogs to feed while being protected. Leaving native plants on stream banks and protecting wetland areas will improve and, in some cases, increase their available habitat. Also consider making brush piles for amphibians to hide in and installing fishless ponds where amphibians can mate, lay eggs, and develop.

Limiting animal and human access to flowing or contained bodies of water and the surrounding wet habitat, called riparian zones, can also support frog populations. Livestock can contribute to the loss of stream or pondside habitat, so keeping them away can be of great benefit. Cats or other pets who prey on frogs can be kept indoors, especially at night when frogs are feeding. Human-caused pollution on a large scale also affects the ability of frogs to thrive. Environmental temperature changes affect their ability to absorb oxygen and maintain mortality rates in reproduction.

Frogs, toads and other amphibians often indicate the overall health of an ecosystem. If frogs are present, it's likely many factors including pollution, interspecies predation, oxygen levels, etc., are in balance. When amphibians disappear, it's time to figure out what's wrong. Protecting frog and toad habitat will benefit your garden and make a difference to many species in the ecosystem.

Jams, Jellies, Preserves, Marmalades - Yummy!

Fresh, spreadable fruit in the form of jam, jelly, preserves,
or marmalade, might possibly be summer's sweetest reward. The best part is that they are easy to make and can be enjoyed long after you put your garden to bed. So, what is the difference between each of these spreadable options? 

Before we dive in, it helps to know that there are two main factors that turn fruit into a thick, spreadable texture: heat (from cooking) and pectin. When fruit is heated, it will lose liquid, causing the fruit to reduce to a firmer state. Pectin is naturally-occurring in fruit and happens to also make fruit thicken when cooked. However, not all fruit contains enough pectin to reach a firm texture, so many spreadable fruit recipes call for additional pectin.

Jelly:
Jelly is the firmest and clearest of the sweet, spreadable options. The fruit is cooked and strained so only the juice ends up in the final product. Jelly is so firm that you could turn the jar over and slide the jelly out in one solid piece.

Jam:
Jam is a chunkier version of jelly. Jam has more fruit pieces and is slightly looser in texture. Chopped or pureed fruit is cooked with sugar, so pieces of fruit end up in the final product. Jams are not clear and not solid like their jelly cousin. Here's a video for strawberry freezer jam!

Preserves:
Preserves are like jam but contain more and bigger pieces of fruit. Preserves have the least gel-like consistency. They are great for serving with cheeses and meat dishes.

Marmalade:
Marmalade is a preserve, but it is made only with citrus. The whole fruit, rind and all, create a bitter-sweet spreadable delight. Lemon, orange, and grapefruit make great marmalades. Marmalades are aromatic with complex flavors and oils from the citrus peels.

Jam, jelly, preserves, and marmalade start out almost the same, but take different forms depending on how they are processed. Whether you like your fruit a spreadable solid, with small pieces of fruit, with large pieces of fruit, or you want the complex flavors of citrus, there is always something good you can choose to put on your toast. 

“Leave the Leaves” vs. Fall Cleanup

Leave the Leaves vs. Fall Cleanup - Is It Contradictory?

Each fall, gardeners in Southwest Idaho face the same choice: clear out leaves, stalks, and seed heads—or leave them in place for wildlife. At first glance, the advice seems to conflict. In practice, both approaches are grounded in science. The key is knowing what to remove and what to keep.

Why Cleanup Still Matters

Some plant debris harbors pests and pathogens that overwinter in our climate. Powdery mildew can persist on cucurbits and peonies; tomato blight can linger in stems and fallen fruit; rust fungi hang on in hollyhock stalks. Insects like squash bugs and grasshoppers survive in crop debris or soil. If this material remains, it becomes a ready source of infection or infestation in spring. Removing diseased or infested debris in fall reduces inoculum and pest pressure for the following season.

What about composting? 

Most plant pathogens are inactivated at sustained hot-compost temperatures around 131–140°F for several days. However, many weed seeds and tougher pathogens need higher and longer exposure—often 150–160°F with thorough turning so all materials pass through the hot core. If your backyard pile doesn’t reliably reach and hold those temps, it’s safest to bag diseased plants and noxious weeds rather than compost them.

Why We Also “Leave the Leaves”

At the same time, many beneficial insects and birds depend on fall’s “messiness.” Research and field observations show that native bees and other insects overwinter in hollow or pithy stems and within leaf litter. Seed heads from plants like coneflower, rudbeckia, and native grasses feed birds through winter. Decomposing leaves improve soil structure and organic matter—especially helpful in our typically lean, alkaline Intermountain soils.

Finding the Balance

Think “tidy where you must, messy where you can.”

Remove: Blight-infected tomato vines, mildew-covered cucurbits, rusted stalks, and obviously infested material. Dispose rather than compost unless your pile truly runs hot and is turned.

Leave: Healthy seed heads and stems for winter structure, food, and habitat. A thin layer of leaves beneath shrubs, trees, and perennials helps insulate soil and shelter beneficials.

Modify: Clear leaves from lawns and hardscapes to prevent turf smothering and slick surfaces, but keep some in beds and wild corners.

Local Timing Tips

Wait for dormancy before major cutback—typically late October into November. Leaves retained under woody plants conserve soil moisture through our dry winters. In early spring, cut back the stems you left standing before new growth begins; by then, most overwintering insects have emerged.

Takeaway

“Leave the Leaves” and fall cleanup aren’t opposites—they’re complementary. Remove the problem material; keep the habitat. That balance supports pollinators, birds, soil life, and a healthier garden next season.

Resources:

https://blog.nwf.org/2024/09/how-fallen-leaves-support-moths-and-butterflies

https://www.usda.gov/about-usda/news/blog/fall-leave-leaves

https://www.nwf.org/Home/Latest-News/Press-Releases/2025/9-16-2025-Leave-the-Leaves-Survey

Bringing the Fall Garden Into Your Home

Fall is a season when the garden gives us more than food — it also offers color, texture, and beauty to enjoy indoors. Pumpkins, gourds, leaves, seed pods, and even dried flowers can all be used in creative ways that celebrate the harvest while making good use of what we grow.

Pumpkins and Gourds Beyond the Jack-o-Lantern

Pumpkins are the stars of the season, but they’re not just for carving.

• Table displays: Mini pumpkins and colorful gourds add natural charm to a centerpiece.

• Serving dishes: Hollowed-out sugar pumpkins can hold soups, dips, or baked custards.

• Long-lasting decoration: Wipe gourds and pumpkins with a mild bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) to slow decay and extend their indoor life.

Many hard-shelled gourds can be dried and later crafted into birdhouses, bowls, or ornaments. This was once a traditional farm practice — practical and decorative.

Leaves and Seed Heads for Autumn Beauty

Raking piles of leaves is inevitable, but setting aside a few of the most colorful can bring the season indoors.

• 
  Pressed leaves: Layer between wax paper or in heavy books to create natural bookmarks or frameable art.

• Wreaths and garlands: Combine bright leaves with acorns, pinecones, or crabapple branches.

• Table scatter: Dried leaves, paired with seed heads from sunflowers or rudbeckia, make an easy seasonal accent.

Seed pods — like milkweed, poppy, or love-in-a-mist — can be dried and added to bouquets. Sunflower heads can be hung as bird feeders, doubling beauty with function.

Garden Herbs and Flowers in the Home

Fall is also a perfect time to bring herbs and late-blooming flowers indoors.

• Dried herbs: Bundles of thyme, sage, or oregano not only flavor autumn cooking but also scent the kitchen.

• Everlastings: Flowers like strawflower, statice, and globe amaranth hold their color when dried, brightening indoor arrangements.

• Aromatic décor: Lavender stems, mint sprigs, or even fennel seed heads can be tied into small sachets or seasonal potpourri.

Fun for Families

Involving children or grandchildren adds joy to the season. Let kids paint pumpkins instead of carving for longer-lasting decorations. Press leaves into shapes for greeting cards. Fill clear jars with acorns, gourds, and berries for a simple, kid-friendly display. These projects connect younger gardeners to the rhythms of the season and show them that the garden’s value goes beyond the harvest basket.

Closing Thought 

Your fall garden is more than a place of work — it’s a source of beauty and creativity. Pumpkins, gourds, leaves, herbs, and seed heads can all be transformed into seasonal decorations that bring warmth into the home. With a little imagination, the bounty of the season will carry you indoors and brighten the darker months ahead.

Looking for Inspiration?

https://www.bhg.com/halloween/crafts/fall-crafts-with-leaves

https://www.bhg.com/gardening/design/projects/make-pressed-flowers

https://www.hgtv.com/lifestyle/entertaining/our-favorite-pumpkin-ideas-for-halloween-pictures

https://roomfortuesday.com/fall-pressed-leaf-artwork

Roasted Tomato Sauce Preservation the EASY Way!

 It’s that wonderful time of year, when we are beyond the  scorching hot days of our summer and we’ve settled into the 90s. This is also the time when tomatoes come on with a fury! If you’ve planted many varieties, as so many of us do, then it’s almost a sprint to keep up with the daily harvest. As an advanced Master Gardener and advanced Master Food Safety Advisor with the University of Idaho Extension program, I’m always looking for the quick and easy way to use what comes from my garden.

I’ve grown it. Now…what? Many years ago, I made and water bath canned my own tomato sauce. It was a lot of work. Since then, I’ve procured the mother of all freezers and now, what I would have canned years ago, I freeze. This way, I have the fresh taste of my garden, all year round. And, the bonus is, I know exactly what goes into what I freeze.

Making and freezing the sauce begins as soon as I have enough tomatoes for a batch. You can use any variety and any size of tomato. I’ll wash, core and quarter the big ones. The Sun Sugar cherry tomatoes, (that I’m so fond of) go into this procedure, whole.

I have peeled garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper at hand. Often, I’ll tuck basil leaves under the tomatoes, if my plan is to make the base for a drop-dead-delicious marinara sauce.

I’ll use a small pan, if I have a smaller batch. I’ll save energy and roast the tomatoes in my toaster oven. Conversely, I’ll use a large restaurant size pan when roasting in my larger, convection oven.

Once I’ve filled the pan with tomatoes, garlic and (sometimes) basil, I drizzle a very conservative amount of olive oil on top. This year, I’ll use a pump atomizer to coat the ingredients with oil, I think it will be more effective and cut down on the amount of oil used. If you use fresh basil, tuck it under the tomatoes, as it can tend to burn during the roasting process.

I pop the entire pan into a preheated, 400° oven and set a timer for 20-minutes. I use this time to revel in the glory of the smells that come from the oven…even opening a window to entice neighbors. I will also tidy my work space during the roasting time. After 20 minutes, I check for signs of roasting. Look for small char marks on the tomatoes and garlic. Check for tenderness in the tomatoes.

Now, I’m in the home stretch! After removing the pan from the oven and letting it cool to touch, I’ll put the contents of it in my blender. I whiz it until it’s pureed.

The next step is not entirely necessary. But, I do it to achieve a velvety smooth consistency. I pour the mixture through a wider gauge strainer to catch any seed or skins that didn’t get blended. This step really does kick it up a notch in terms of quality. Because the skin stayed on the tomatoes during the entire process, there are still plenty of vitamins in the sauce.

I put my sauce in freezer-safe containers with ½ inch head space (for possible freezing expansion), and I label EXACTLY what I added to the mix. This way, I know if I’ll use the sauce for stews, chili, Italian or Mexican recipes. Plus, nothing goes in my freezer without a date. Try to use the sauce within a year’s time.  

The quality of the sauce really holds up with this procedure. The other night, I made homemade pizza. The container I thawed (from my 2016 harvest) was a bit thin for pizza sauce. I simply put the contents in a saucepan and added a small amount of cornstarch. In minutes, I had thick, delicious homemade pizza sauce. The results were delectable!

Gardener Guide to Saving Seeds

Saving seeds is sustainable and saves money. It also helps strengthen plants as they adapt to local conditions and it preserves your favorite heirloom varieties. Many gardeners love to share or swap their seeds with other gardeners. In this light, we can learn a lot about seed saving from Small-Scale Market Gardening (SMG), which is all about keeping things sustainable, encouraging variety, space-saving, and sharing among gardeners. This process helps plants become stronger and better suited to their local environment.

How to Save Seeds 
Start by selecting healthy, non-hybrid plants. Allow fruits and vegetables to mature fully on the plant before harvesting. Wet seeds, like tomatoes, should be separated from the fruit, rinsed, fermented, and then dried. Fermenting helps remove the gelatinous coating that sometimes inhibits germination. Simply put seeds in water for a few days until a layer of mold forms, which helps break down the coating. After fermentation, rinse the seeds well and dry them. Dry seeds, like beans and lettuce, need to be removed from pods, separated from chaff, and dried. Store dried seeds in labeled envelopes or airtight containers in a cool, dry place to maintain their viability. If you want to be especially crafty, you can use pre-made templates to make your own seed packets!

Concerns About GMO Seeds
Home gardeners sometimes worry about exchanging seed with other gardeners because they don't want GMO contamination. GMOs are not likely to be found in your home garden because no retailer sells genetically engineered seeds to home gardeners. GMO crops are expensive and commercial farmers are required to sign a contract that protects the patented technology. These companies do not sell GM-crops to the home garden market or to garden centers.

The Best Plants for Beginners

• Tomatoes & Peppers are self-pollinating and easy to dry.
• Beans & Peas should be allowed to dry in their pods before you harvest them.
• Lettuce produces abundant seeds and is easy to grow.

Other Things to Consider
Be sure to prevent cross-pollination by isolating certain plants like squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, and corn to maintain pure seed varieties. 

Test germination by sprouting a few seeds before planting. This can be done indoors before the season starts. It is also a good idea to write the date on your seed envelopes and use the freshest seeds first.

By practicing these techniques, you’ll cultivate stronger plants and preserve valuable varieties for the future. Happy seed saving!