What Are Dynamic Accumulator Plants?

Ever wonder how some plants seem to improve your garden soil just by being there? That’s the idea behind dynamic accumulator plants. These are plants that naturally pull minerals and nutrients from deep in the ground and store them in their leaves and stems. When you cut these plants back or let them die down, the nutrients are released into the topsoil, right where your other plants can use them.

What Exactly Is a Dynamic Accumulator?

Dynamic accumulators are plants with deep roots that tap into underground nutrient stores. They bring up things like calcium, potassium, nitrogen, and magnesium — nutrients your garden plants love but can’t always reach. These helpful plants then store those nutrients in their foliage. When you mulch with their leaves or let them compost, you're effectively feeding your garden from within.

While gardeners and permaculturists have used this idea for decades, only recently have researchers started to study it scientifically.

Science Meets Soil

Here are a few key studies and resources you can explore:

• Unadilla Community Farm Research (2020–2021): This study cataloged over 340 plants that concentrate specific nutrients. It also created a searchable database so you can find the right plant for your needs.

• Cornell Small Farms Program: This report looks at how these plants can be used to recycle nutrients and build healthy soil.

• Oregon State University Extension: Discusses the basics of permaculture and mentions the potential of nutrient-accumulating plants.

• Scientific Study on Comfrey: This paper backs up the claim that comfrey is especially good at mining minerals.

Popular Dynamic Accumulator Plants

Here are some favorites that work in a variety of climates and gardens:

Plant	What It Brings Up	Why Gardeners Love It
Comfrey	Potassium, calcium, phosphorus	Great mulch, fast grower
Nettles	Nitrogen, iron, calcium	Boosts compost, makes great tea
Yarrow	Phosphorus, potassium, copper	Attracts pollinators
Dandelion	Calcium, potassium, magnesium	Deep taproot, soil breaker
Alfalfa	Nitrogen, calcium, iron	Fixes nitrogen, improves soil
Borage	Potassium, calcium	Bee magnet, fast grower
Chicory	Potassium, calcium, phosphorus	Deep-rooted, hardy and tough

How to Use These Plants in Your Garden

You don’t need fancy techniques, just a bit of know-how. Here are four simple, effective ways to use dynamic accumulators in everyday gardening:

Chop and Drop

This is exactly what it sounds like: cut back your dynamic accumulator (like comfrey, yarrow, or borage) and drop the leaves and stems right where they grew, especially around vegetable beds. This forms an instant mulch layer, which helps suppress weeds, feeds the soil as it breaks down, and retains moisture. You can repeat this process several times a season with fast-growing plants like comfrey.

Compost Booster

Toss the leaves and trimmings of these nutrient-packed plants into your compost pile. Since they contain high levels of minerals like calcium, potassium, and nitrogen, they act as a natural fertilizer boost. This helps balance the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio in your pile and speeds up decomposition. Nettles and alfalfa are particularly good at heating up the compost.

Soil Softener
Some plants, like dandelion, chicory, and comfrey, have strong taproots that drill down into hard or compacted soils. As they grow, they loosen up the earth, improve drainage, and make space for beneficial soil organisms. When these roots eventually die, they leave behind natural pathways that help water and air move through the soil.

Companion Planting

Grow dynamic accumulators alongside your veggies or fruit trees to help attract pollinators (especially with yarrow and borage), repel pests (borage near tomatoes is a classic trick), and improve nutrient availability in the root zone. Think of them as living support systems, enhancing the growth and resilience of your main crops just by being there.

Final Thoughts

Dynamic accumulator plants are an easy, natural way to feed your garden and improve soil health over time. They're not magic—but they are powerful allies. With more research popping up to support what some gardeners have known for years, it’s a great time to give these plants a try. Start simple. Plant a little comfrey or yarrow, and see how your garden responds!

Are Bees the only Pollinators? So many others...

With real evidence of bee population loss in the last few years, the term ‘pollinator’ might be on a gardener’s mind right now.  But what about other pollinators? Can you encourage other beneficial insects to your landscape and do they have any other benefits?  Do they all sting? 

In the chart below, we can find some common plant pollinators who you may not have thought of as beneficial, but all have something to give to your garden.  

Let’s start with one of the hardest to accept, the European Paper Wasp. Not to be confused with most yellowjackets!

Difficult as it may be to have around because they do sting, not only are they pollinators, but they also feed on soft bodied, leaf-eating pests - caterpillars, aphids. 

European paper wasps are relatively non-aggressive, and somewhat less likely to sting than yellowjackets. Stings occur almost exclusively when ness are accidently disturbed.

The Hoverfly is a pollinator in disguise.
 They have evolved to look like bees, mainly to ward off predators. Lucky for us these little flies are harmless, unless you’re an aphid. Once the adult Hoverfly has selected the best aphid colony in your garden to lay its eggs beside, soon those eggs develop into aphid-eating maggots. 

Butterflies and Moths are also good pollinators because of the large amount of pollen that collects on their feet and legs. Some special characteristics that set them apart from bees are not only do they taste with their feet, but they can also see the color red. 

Moths are also part of the night pollinating crew.

Less known but just as important as pollinators are bats, birds, mice, and other vertebrates. 

Psst...they also eat their weight in bad bugs!

With these factors in mind, you might want to try to attract these pollinators to your yard and garden by planting a wide variety of plants that bloom from early spring until late fall. Plant is clumps with native plants and don't forget night-blooming plants. You could also install a bee hotel for native bees and mason bees.

You may be able to do less pest control and more relaxing while these and other beneficial pollinators do the work for you. 
Follow us on Facebook during Pollinator Week June 16-22!

Blueberries in Idaho - it's work...and worth it!

 Craving fresh blueberries? It is possible to grow them here in Idaho.
 Here's how:

• Blueberries are compact flowering bushes that bear round bluish fruit.
• They require full sun and only like moist acidic soil. Soils in Southwestern Idaho are commonly alkaline, so you must  use an acidic planting mix. 
• They can be planted in a landscape with amended soil or also successfully grown in a container. 

Pruning, Maintenance and Fertilizer

Blueberries require little pruning; however, maintenance is required in terms of fertilization and sulfur. You’ll need to be patient.  For the first year you’ll need to strip off all the blossoms so the plant can use its energy to grow strong healthy canes for increased production. 

If planting in a container, you’ll need to monitor water closely because pots dry out quickly. Blueberries like moist well drained soil but not soggy conditions.  Mulching will help keep the soil moist and limit the growth of weeds.  After the first 2 springs, you’ll want to prune off older canes to encourage new growth and fertilize with an alkalizing fertilizer (21-0-0)

Which variety to choose?
There are many recommended cultivars which will grow in Idaho. Depending on bloom time,

hardiness and height, make your choice from two different cultivars to insure pollination.

Whether you chose to grow a Northern Highbush, Southern Highbush, Rabbiteye, Lowbush

or Half-High, your plant will produce more and larger berries when cross pollinated.

There is still time to get your blueberry plants from your favorite local nursery

Quick tips and things you'll need:

Acid Loving Potting Mix

Soil Sulfur

Ammonium Sulfate 

Acid Plant Fertilizer

Bird Netting (the birds like blueberries as much as humans)

Plant in full sun

Protect with bird netting
Choose two different cultivars for cross pollination
Replace native Idaho soil with acid loving planting mix
Fertilize with 21-0-0
Fertilize with soil sulfur
Remove blossoms 1st year and additional canes 1st two springs

Blueberry Syrup Recipe

2 cups fresh blueberries                            

¼ cup raw stevia or equivalent                                  

½ cup water                                             

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon creme de cassis (optional)

Place Blueberries in a sauce pan on the stove.  Mix water and cornstarch together until dissolved add to blueberries.  Cook over medium heat until berries start to pop.  Use the back of a spoon to mash the berries and boil 1 minute.  Add the stevia, lemon juice and Crème de Cassis.  Store unused portion in refrigerator for up to about a week.  This sauce can also be added to plain yogurt or ice cream. 

Do Plant Brews Really Work? What the Science Says

If you’ve spent any time on gardening forums or social media, you’ve likely come across homemade plant brews like weed tea, compost tea, banana peel tea, and even eggshell tea or Epsom salts. These DIY fertilizers are praised for being natural, cost-effective, and sustainable—but how well do they actually work? Let’s look at what current research says about these popular garden elixirs.

Weed Tea: Free Fertilizer or Just Funky Water?

Weed tea is made by soaking or fermenting common weeds—such as dandelions, chickweed, or comfrey—in water, with the idea that the nutrients weeds extract from the soil will leach into the liquid and feed your plants. While weeds are nutrient accumulators, there’s little published research confirming the nutrient content or effectiveness of weed tea. Some studies on plants like Tithonia diversifolia (Mexican sunflower) used as green manure show benefits when incorporated directly into soil, but not as fermented teas. At best, weed tea may provide a mild boost, but results are unpredictable and largely anecdotal.

Compost Tea: Some Scientific Backing

Compost tea, particularly the aerated kind (ACT), is one of the most researched DIY fertilizers. It’s made by soaking compost (plant-based or worm castings, not always manure) in water, sometimes with added sugars and oxygen to increase microbial growth. Studies have found that compost tea can improve microbial life in soil, help suppress certain plant diseases, and occasionally increase plant growth. However, its success depends on how it’s brewed and applied. Using fully matured, pathogen-free compost is key, especially when used on edible crops. While compost tea shows promise, it’s not a substitute for nutrient-rich compost or balanced fertilizers.

Banana Peel Tea: Some Promise, If Processed Properly

Banana peels are high in potassium and other minerals. Recent studies suggest that processed banana peel fertilizers can improve soil quality and plant growth. For example, a 2024 review published in the journal Agriculture by MDPI discusses the potential of banana peel-based biofertilizers and their effectiveness when properly processed. Other studies support their use in nano-fertilizer or composted forms for boosting yields and plant health. That said, soaking banana peels in water for a few days may not extract meaningful nutrients. Composting them is a far more effective way to return their value to the soil.

Eggshell Tea and Epsom Salts: Popular, but Situational

Eggshell tea is made by soaking crushed eggshells in water to extract calcium. While eggshells are rich in calcium carbonate, it breaks down slowly. Studies show that unless finely ground, eggshells don’t readily release nutrients into water or soil. Composting or grinding them into powder is more effective. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) are also frequently used, especially for tomatoes and peppers. While magnesium is an essential nutrient, overuse can disrupt soil nutrient balance. Unless a soil test shows magnesium deficiency, regular use isn’t necessary and may cause harm.

The Bottom Line: Good Garden Practices First

DIY fertilizers like weed tea, compost tea, banana peel tea, eggshell tea, and Epsom salts can be part of a sustainable gardening routine. However, their effectiveness varies widely, and most are only mildly beneficial unless processed and applied properly. Before adding any homebrew fertilizer to your garden, remember: healthy plants start with healthy soil. Compost and organic matter are your foundation. Always test your soil before adding amendments, it’s the only way to know what your plants actually need. Use DIY fertilizers as supplements, not substitutes, for a well-balanced approach.

Welcome Wildlife with These Attractive Bushes & Trees!

We all feel it—the desire to try harder to coexist with nature. When choosing a new tree for our landscape, we want something that will provide us with shade and beauty plus provide nourishment for our birds and pollinators. We are highlighting three attractive trees that grow well in the Treasure Valley. Each of these deciduous trees are small enough to fit in most yards. They boast beautiful spring blossoms, colorful fall foliage, wonderful fragrance, and bright, edible berries. 

Saskatoon Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) is a delightful landscape tree, and a favorite among birders in the Treasure Valley. Birds of all kinds flock to the Serviceberry in the summer for the sweet, juicy, red fruit. The berries are edible for humans too, tasting somewhat like blueberries! Billowing white blooms attract bees and butterflies in the spring. When fall arrives, the foliage turns a beautiful, deep red. Hardy in zones 4-9, the Serviceberry tolerates most soil types once established It grows quickly up to 25 feet and prefers full sun.

Choose the Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana ‘Canada Red') tree or shrub if you're looking for something showy that will grow in rather poor conditions. This hardy little 20 to 25-foot tree tolerates heat, cold, wind, and poor soil in zones 2-10. Even though it asks for little, it will grow beautiful clusters of long, white flowers in the spring, attracting butterflies and other pollinators. Each new flush of bright green leaves turns reddish purple by mid-summer, providing striking color throughout the growing season. As the name implies, chokecherries taste bitter to humans when raw, but the fruit can be used to make wines, syrups, and jelly. You’ll have to act fast, though, if you want some for yourself! Birds love to feast on this important and nutritious food source. The leaves and berry seeds are toxic to humans and animals, so do not plant this tree if you have pets that might ingest the seeds or foliage.

A classic in Idaho landscapes, the Crabapple(Malus spp) never fails to delight our winter-weary eyes with its masses of pink flowers in early spring. This outstanding tree thrives in full sun and acidic soil but is quite adaptable to other conditions and is hardy to zone 4. The Malus ‘Indian Summer’ variety has excellent resistance to disease. Crabapples trees are a wildlife magnet. The bright-red fruit remains on the tree from fall through winter as a welcome, nutritious treat.

Martin Luther once said, “Even if I knew that tomorrow the world would go to pieces, I would still plant my apple tree.” 

There is never a better time than now to choose a tree and plant it. Even a small yard can attract birds, butterflies, and helpful insects, benefiting us all for years to come.

With Thrill, Fill, Spill - Container Gardening May Be your Answer!

Want to add color to your landscape without fighting Idaho’s heavy clay soil?

Container gardening may be the answer! More than just for areas with limited space, containers are great for adding height in an existing garden, as a way to plant areas with difficult in-ground soil conditions, or as a portable home for plants that cannot survive the winter months outdoors. They also allow gardeners an opportunity to experiment with combinations of colors and textures on a small scale before taking on a bigger planting.

Additionally, I use container gardens within my own landscape in order to create visual levels of plantings within my border, as well as an alternative to battling digging out and amending the hard clay soil.

Key considerations when gardening in containers: 

1. Location: When determining where to place your containers, it is important to consider the amount of sunlight the location gets during the day. 

2. Container: Containers should have adequate drainage and not be too much larger in size (around) than the combined area needed for the plants that will be planted in the container.

3. Soil: The soil should be mostly a potting soil mix, that can be amended with organic material (compost, peat moss). When adding material to the potting soil, the soil and organic material should be well combined in order to have a uniform texture and allow for proper drainage. 

4. Plant selection: Based on the amount of sun that the container will get during the day, select plants that have similar amounts of sunlight and water required. 

5. For plant recommendations and ideas, check out this article from Oregon State University.

How to Design a Container Garden:

Designing a container garden lets the gardener be free to create playful and eye-catching garden spaces. 

The primary design elements of a container garden are the thrill, fill, and spill. 

1. The thrill is usually a planting that creates height in the container, it is a planting that is often centered in the container and is taller than the rest. 

2. The fill is a plant or plants that are similar in height, but shorter than the thrill. The fill occupies the middle section of the container planting and may have pops of color contrast that draw the eye toward the container. 

3. The spill is typically a trailing plant that spills over the side of the container and adds both drama and texture.   

Trying to decide which is right for you - container gardening or raised beds? Check out these five tips.

From Indoors to Outdoors: How to Start Melons, Squash, and Pumpkins for a Perfect Transplant

As winter fades and spring temperatures rise, mid-April is the ideal time to prepare for warm-season crops like squash, melons, and pumpkins. While it is still too early to plant them directly outdoors, taking steps now will ensure a strong start to the growing season.

Since squash, melons, and pumpkins thrive in warm soil (60–70°F), starting them indoors 3 to 4 weeks before your last frost date provides a head start. The University of Idaho Extension recommends this method to establish strong plants before transplanting.

These crops do not like their roots disturbed, so careful handling during transplanting is essential. To minimize stress, peat pots or other biodegradable containers are recommended.

Seed Starting Steps:

✔ Containers: Peat pots or biodegradable pots reduce root disturbance during transplanting. If plastic containers are used, seedlings should be handled gently.
✔ Soil: A light, well-draining seed-starting mix promotes healthy root development.
✔ Temperature: Soil should be kept at 75–85°F for optimal germination. A heat mat can help maintain consistent warmth.
✔ Lighting: Grow lights should be positioned 2–3 inches above seedlings for strong, compact growth.
✔ Watering: Soil should remain moist but not soggy to prevent disease.

Seeds should be planted 1 inch deep, with 1–2 seeds per pot. Once seedlings emerge, thinning to one strong plant per pot will ensure healthy growth.

Preparing the Garden Bed

While seeds germinate indoors, garden beds should be prepared for transplanting in mid-to-late May. The University of Idaho’s vegetable gardening guide highlights the importance of well-drained, nutrient-rich soil and full sun exposure for these crops. 

Soil Preparation Steps:

✔ Remove weeds to prevent competition.
✔ Loosen soil and incorporate compost for improved fertility.
✔ Rake soil smooth and ensure good drainage.

Since squash, melons, and pumpkins are heavy feeders, preparing the soil early allows nutrients to integrate before transplanting.

Mulching Plan: A Natural Approach

Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature while protecting delicate roots from disturbance. Consider using one or a combination of the following:

• Compost (1–2 inches): Feeds soil and improves structure.
• Shredded leaves or dried grass clippings (2 inches): Insulates and holds moisture.
• Straw or hay (3 inches): Prevents rot by keeping fruit off the soil.

Choose the best option for your garden, or layer multiple types for added benefits.

Looking Ahead: Preparing for Transplanting

Since squash, melons, and pumpkins do not like their roots disturbed, extra care must be taken when transplanting. When moving plants outdoors, the entire peat pot should be planted directly into the soil to avoid disrupting the roots. If plastic trays were used, seedlings should be gently removed and transplanted with as much of their root system intact as possible.

A week before transplanting, seedlings should be hardened off by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions, starting with a few hours each day in a sheltered location.

With seeds started indoors and garden beds prepared, everything will be in place for a successful growing season. Careful transplanting will ensure these plants establish quickly, leading to a productive harvest of squash, melons, and pumpkins by late summer.