Friday, September 12, 2025
Roasted Tomato Sauce Preservation the EASY Way!
Friday, September 5, 2025
Gardener Guide to Saving Seeds
Saving seeds is sustainable and saves money. It also helps strengthen plants as
they adapt to local conditions and it preserves your favorite heirloom
varieties. Many gardeners love to share or swap their seeds with other
gardeners. In this light, we can learn a lot about seed saving from Small-Scale Market Gardening (SMG),
which is all about keeping
things sustainable, encouraging variety, space-saving, and sharing among gardeners. This process helps plants become stronger and better suited to their local
environment.
How to Save Seeds
Start by selecting healthy,
non-hybrid plants.
Allow fruits and vegetables to mature fully on the plant before harvesting. Wet seeds, like
tomatoes, should be separated from the fruit, rinsed, fermented, and
then dried. Fermenting helps remove the
gelatinous coating that sometimes inhibits germination. Simply put seeds in water for a few days until a layer of mold forms, which helps break
down the coating. After fermentation, rinse the seeds well and dry them. Dry seeds, like beans and lettuce,
need to be removed from pods, separated from chaff, and dried. Store dried seeds in labeled envelopes or airtight containers in a cool,
dry place to maintain their viability. If you want to be especially crafty, you
can use pre-made templates to make your own seed packets!
Concerns About GMO Seeds
Home gardeners sometimes worry about exchanging seed with other gardeners because they don't want GMO contamination. GMOs are
not likely to be found in your home garden because no retailer sells genetically engineered seeds to home gardeners. GMO crops are expensive and commercial farmers are required to sign a contract that protects the
patented technology. These companies do not sell GM-crops to the home garden
market or to garden centers.
- Tomatoes & Peppers are self-pollinating and easy to dry.
- Beans & Peas should be allowed to dry in their pods before you harvest them.
- Lettuce produces abundant seeds and is easy to grow.
Other Things to Consider
Be sure to prevent cross-pollination by isolating certain plants like squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, and corn to maintain pure seed varieties.
Friday, August 29, 2025
Goathead season... when every bike ride becomes a quest for survival.
challenging weed that is also known as Caltrop, Tack Weed, Bull Head, Cat Head, and Mexican Sand Burr. As foreboding as these names sound, the reality is even more sinister because they are difficult to live with and challenging to kill. This is because goathead plants like to stay very low to the ground where they can escape the wrath of lawnmowers, weed-whackers, and bush-cutters, so they often get the opportunity to mature and form their terrible seed heads. What’s worse is that each plant can produce several hundred to several thousand stealthy, strong, and sharp caltrop-like burs that have the potential to seriously injure people, animals, and even thin-walled pneumatic tires (like bicycle tires). The good news (if there is any) is that they also produce small, yellow, bee-foraged flowers that serve as a subtle warning.
HOW DID IT GET THERE?
It originated from southern Europe and northern Africa. Supposedly, it was (accidentally) imported into the United States along with livestock from the Mediterranean area. But how did it get into YOUR yard? The seeds themselves are designed for animals and people to carry them to their new homes. They attach to fur or feet and walk themselves into a new home.
WHERE DOES IT THRIVE?
Goatheads love to take root along railways, roadsides, walkways, residential properties, cultivated fields, and other disturbed places. It thrives in hot, dry, sandy soils; but will also grow in most other soils too. The plants don’t generally survive freezing temperatures, but the seeds survive almost any condition.
HOW CAN YOU GET RID OF IT?
Long-term control of puncturevine can be achieved by reducing the number of seeds in the soil. By removing plants before they produce seeds (flowering) over several years, the plants will eventually go away. Burrs that have dropped after removal will need to be collected by sweeping the ground or patting the ground with a piece of carpet to collect the burrs.
Puncturevine can be killed with chemicals. Always read the instructions carefully to ensure you are being safe, applying at times that won’t affect pollinators, and that you don’t accidentally kill neighboring plants.
WAIT… IS THERE ANYTHING GOOD ABOUT GOAT HEADS?
Goatheads make a fantastic organic deterrent against bare-footed or bicycle-bound bandits. Just plant Puncturevine in the form of a natural barrier; or, if you happen to be on the run, simply toss a handful of goatheads in the suspected path of bandit travel and your problems should be solved in short order – unless, of course, you are dealing with boot-wearing bandits!
Best of luck keeping your head as you attempt to remove goatheads!
Thursday, August 28, 2025
Rush Skeletonweed - An Idaho Noxious Weed
Rush Skeletonweed is an invasive, non-native, long-lived biennial or perennial that is very persistent, taking years for established colonies to be eradicated. It is not toxic, being palatable for most livestock, especially sheep and goats (only goats will eat the wiry stems). These stems are so tough that they can interfere with harvesting equipment, making them a bane for farmers raising grain crops. In the West, it is estimated that over 6 million acres are infested with Rush Skeletonweed, and those numbers are likely to continue to grow.
Rush Skeletonweed germinates or re-sprouts in the fall and early spring as a rosette (looking very similar to young dandelions), actively growing through the spring and early summer. All the while it is establishing a formidable root system that can be 7’ deep with many side shoots, which can form future rosettes. In early summer, as the stem develops the leaves of the rosettes begin to die back. If it is allowed to progress to this point, it cannot be killed chemically.
The small bright yellow flowers produce ripe seeds, without fertilization, in a few days. These seeds can then be dispersed by the wind miles away. An established, vigorous plant can produce an average of 20,000 seeds each year.
Rush Skeletonweed prefers well-drained, rocky, or sandy-textured soils in climates that are cold in winter, warm in summer, and wet early in the year. Areas that have been disturbed, such as roadsides, empty urban lots, burn scars, logging sites, cultivated fields, droughty areas, and areas that have been overgrazed, seem to be favorable sites. South and central Idaho is currently the epicenter of the infestation, with wheat-growing regions and rangelands being particularly hard hit
How can we mitigate this noxious weed?
First, it helps to know that eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a long-term project (possibly seven years or longer), so be patient.
Spraying rosettes with herbicides both in fall and winter is preferable, and spring treatment is also effective. Unfortunately, 2,4-D, and a round-up type product won’t do the job.
Hand pulling is effective if done when seedlings are less than 5 weeks old. Once the roots have developed, mark the spot, and return periodically to re-dig because 2 or more roots will likely re-grow in the same spot. This method is preferred in your vegetable garden or other areas where you cannot use chemicals.
As mentioned above, grazing is effective, but must be continuous or you will end up with more rosettes or more flowering stems. Controlling and eradicating Rush Skeletonweed is a very serious issue. If you have it on your property, take proactive measures to ensure it does not flourish and spread.
Friday, August 15, 2025
Late Summer Perennial Division: Give Your Plants a Fresh Start
Division is like a spa day for plants—it reinvigorates growth, prevents overcrowding, and even gives you extra divisions to plant elsewhere or share with friends. In our high-desert climate, with hot summers and fast-cooling autumn nights, late-summer division is a smart move. The warm soil helps roots reestablish, and cooler evenings reduce transplant stress. As the University of Minnesota Extension points out, dividing perennials stimulates new growth, encourages more vigorous blooming, and improves airflow to help reduce disease pressure.
The best candidates for this timing are spring- and early summer-bloomers. Day-lilies, bearded iris (divided right after their flowers fade), cheerful Shasta daisies, and peonies all respond well to late August or early September division. Creeping phlox, shade-loving hostas, and sturdy yarrow also benefit from this seasonal refresh. Fall bloomers like asters and mums are best left until spring so their floral display isn’t interrupted.
Some of our native perennials can be treated the same way. Coneflowers and goldenrod both respond beautifully to late-summer division, sending up vigorous new shoots the following spring. Blanket flower and prairie smoke also divide well now. Others—like penstemon, globe mallow, and showy milkweed—tend to resist root disturbance and are better propagated from seed or cuttings rather than being dug and split.
For the smoothest recovery, work in the cool of morning or evening, and if the sun is intense, offer a bit of temporary shade for a few days. A light mulch will help regulate soil temperature and hold in moisture.
By tending to this now, you’ll set the stage for stronger, healthier plants next spring—and perhaps even have a few extras to share with friends or donate to a community plant sale. Sometimes, the best way to help a plant thrive is to give it the gift of space and a fresh beginning.
We've included links to show you more:
Friday, August 8, 2025
Repurpose your Wine Corks in the Garden - Fun!!!
7 Easy Ways to Repurpose Wine Corks in Your Garden
By Viveka Neveln Published on July 23, 2025, in Better Homes & Gardens
Don't toss your wine corks—put them to use in your garden! Whether you have a whole collection saved for that craft project you keep putting off, or just one or two, corks can enhance your outdoor space right now in lots of clever ways. With just a few tools and supplies, here's how to reuse wine corks for pretty and practical purposes around your garden.
1. Plant Markers
Turn wine corks into simple DIY plant markers with just a permanent marker and wooden skewers. Write the plant's name on the side of the cork with your marker, or you could get fancy and use a wood-burning pen, if you have one. Then stab the sharp end of a skewer into one end of your cork, depending on if you want to read the word from the top going down or starting at the bottom end of the cork.
Your new plant markers will add rustic, homespun charm to veggie beds, herb gardens, and container gardens. The cork will hold up well to the elements, lasting at least a growing season.
2. Pot Feet
Pots and planters drain better when raised up a little from a flat surface. You can buy pot feet or plant stands to do the job, but wine corks offer another simple solution. Cut a few corks in half the short way, then glue them to the bottom of your pots before filling with soil.
Make sure to cut the corks so the pieces are exactly the same height so you can keep the pot level. The extra space allows water to flow away from the pot's base, which helps avoid root rot as well as staining on patios or decks. You can also set the pot in a saucer, where the cork feet will prevent the bottom of the pot from sitting in water, which can keep the soil too wet.
3. Mulch for Pots
Natural corks (as opposed to the synthetic ones) are made from the bark of cork oak trees, and like the bark from other trees, you can use it as mulch. Break up your leftover wine corks into small chunks, then layer them around the base of your plants as DIY mulch. Because cork is buoyant, it's best to use this mulch in container gardens where the rim of your pot will stop them from floating away in a downpour. Just like other types of organic mulch, your cork mulch will help conserve moisture, stop weeds, and eventually will break down into the soil.
4. Make a Garden Kneeling Pad
If you have a large collection of corks, or have some wine-drinking friends who'd like to contribute to the cause, you can make a simple kneeling pad for gardening. Hot glue the corks side-by-side in a rectangular shape. Aim for your total surface to measure 21-36 inches long and 14-18 inches wide. Glue your cork rectangle on top of an inexpensive outdoor waterproof mat for extra stability. Trim the mat to fit the corks if necessary. The corks will help cushion your knees next time you need to weed or plant.
5. Fairy Garden Accessories
Let your imagination loose to wine corks in all
sorts of fanciful ways for fairy gardens. For example, you can stand the corks on end to serve as edging for a tiny garden path, shown above. Or you can slice them into coins that can serve as stepping stones. Halve your corks lengthwise, and use them to create adorable, log-like steps. Give one of these half cork pieces four toothpick legs, and you have a rustic garden bench perfect for a fairy scene.
6. Topper for Stakes
Bamboo poles or other types of stakes make sturdy supports for tall veggies and flowers. But they can become a safety hazard when you're working around them. Top the ends with wine corks to help make them less damaging if one does poke you in the eye. Plus, you can paint the corks with bright colors to help make the ends of stakes more visible.
7. Compost Your Corks
If you're not feeling crafty but you don't want to just throw out your wine corks, simply add them to your compost bin. Cut them up into small pieces to help them break down faster. They count as a "brown" material in your compost, which should be layered with "green" materials for the composting process to work best.
Monday, August 4, 2025
Happy Lawn, Happy Gardener!
Irrigate properly to help reduce annual weed infestation. Light frequent irrigation encourages weed seed germination, even if a pre-emergence herbicide has been applied. Water 1- 1.5 inches per watering. Do not water again until you see signs of wilt. Turf will also turn a shade of blue green when it is water stressed. The best time to irrigate your lawn is between 10p.m and 6a.m.
Mowing The preferred mowing height for all species of grass is 2 ½ - 3 inches. The minimum height that any lawn should be mowed is 2 inches. Mowing to heights less than 2 inches results in decreased drought and heat tolerance plus higher incidences of insect, disease, and weed problems. The seeds of some weeds require high light intensity to germinate. The shaded environment near the soil surface in a high mown lawn helps deter weed germination. Mowing frequently enough that no more than one third of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. If the mowing height is two inches the grass should be mowed when it is 3 inches tall. If the mowing height is 3 inches, it should be mowed when it's about 4 inches. Keep your mower blade sharp to avoid shredding and fraying leaf blades. Grass clippings should be allowed to fall back into the yard to provide natural nitrogen in the soil.
Pre-emergence herbicides A Pre-emergent is activated in the top layer of soil where the weed seeds sprout, and by design it stops the plant from growing. A pre-emergent is NOT effective once the weeds are showing. Spreading out the herbicide so that it is evenly distributed is critical. It must also be watered into the soil within the appointed time period. The soil must remain undisturbed in order to maintain the barrier. A pre-emergent has to be replaced, or replenished. Pre-emergence should be applied two to four weeks before the seeds start to germinate in mid March to early April depending on weather. Warm moist springs cause earlier germination. The temperature of the soil ( 55-60 degrees) as it starts to warm up in the spring is going to be the primary indicator of the pending arrival of various weed species. With normal weather patterns pre-emergence herbicides give good to excellent control of crabgrass, foxtail, and barnyard grass. Do not over seed into areas that have recently been treated with pre- emergence.
Post- emergence herbicides Perennial broadleaf weeds can be controlled by post emergent herbicides. It is important to properly identify the weed before choosing an herbicide. Some common perennial broadleaf weeds in lawns are dandelion, field bindweed ( morning glory), White clover, curly dock, ground ivy, Canada thistle, broad leaf plantain, buckhorn plantain and yarrow. The best time to control perennial weeds is in late summer or early fall when weeds are preparing for winter.
Core cultivate ( aerate) the lawn at least once a year to reduce compaction and to control thatch.
Fertilization Fertilizer may be needed if the lawn has poor color and vigor, doesn’t recover from traffic or more weeds are present. Nitrogen is the most important nutrient for lawns. Do not use Phosphorus or Potassium unless soil test indicates it is needed. Cool season grasses should be fertilized in fall, late spring and little in the summer. Warm season grasses should be fertilized late May, June, avoid fertilizing in late summer and fall.
Sunday, July 27, 2025
Know How to Grow - Become a 2C Master Gardener!
Become an Idaho Master Gardener in Canyon County - learn the art and science of horticulture! Our series of classes provide you with a variety of ways to improve your gardening skills...and share your passion and knowledge with others. Do you want to connect with other gardeners in your community? Then you will not want to miss this opportunity!
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Hands-on field trips |
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2cTurf & Team site visit |
Cost: The cost for the 2026 Canyon County Master Gardener program is $280 to be paid by 8/29/2025 (scholarships and payment plans are available). This cost includes a handbook, a soil test, several hands-on labs, field trips, a background check, a Master Gardener t-shirt and a name badge at the end of the course.
Application Deadline: The deadline to apply for the Canyon County Idaho Master Gardener program is August 15, 2025. Get your spot early as space is limited in class. We at the U of I Extension want everyone to be comfortable and safe while learning about horticulture. We offer in-person classes (while spots are available). Complete your application today!
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IPM Scouting Walk |
Apply here 👉https://forms.office.com/r/E84saNVKKatext or https://bit.ly/2025-26_MGapplication.
Follow us here 👉
Facebook @2CMasterGardeners
Friday, July 18, 2025
Managing Heat Stress in Idaho Gardens
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What Is Heat Stress?
When temperatures climb high enough, plants can’t cool themselves efficiently through transpiration. Moisture evaporates faster than roots can replace it. To conserve water, plants close their stomata—but that slows growth, reduces yield, and weakens the plant. Long stretches of heat can cause real damage, and in some cases, even kill the plant.
Vegetable Gardens: First to Feel the Heat
Vegetables, especially those in full sun or shallow soils, are usually the first to suffer.
Common Signs:
Wilting at midday, even when the soil is moist
Blossoms dropping from tomatoes, peppers, beans, and squash
Curling or rolling leaves (especially on tomatoes and corn)
- Sunscald on fruit and foliage
- Bolting in cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, cilantro, and broccoli
When days top 94–96°F and nights stay above 70–75°F, tomato blossoms may drop and pollination can fail. Beans and peppers are even more heat-sensitive—blossoms can drop when temps reach the low 90s.
Tips to Beat the Heat:
- Water early and deeply so roots get moisture before the heat peaks
Mulch with straw, shredded leaves, or compost to keep soil cool
Use shade cloth or temporary shade for vulnerable crops
Hold off on fertilizing during heatwaves—new growth is too fragile
Group plants with similar water needs for better care
Always check soil moisture a few inches down. A damp surface can be deceiving.
Container and Raised Bed Gardening: Needs Extra TLC
Containers and raised beds are efficient and popular in Idaho gardens—but they dry out fast and heat up quickly in the sun.
Containers:
Use light-colored or large pots to help keep roots cool
Check moisture daily (or twice daily during extreme heat)
Add mulch to container surfaces to reduce water loss
Move pots to afternoon shade if you can, or use umbrellas or shade cloth
Skip the fertilizer until the weather cools a bit
Raised Beds:
Amend with compost to hold more water
Water deeply and consistently—daily in temps over 90°F
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to water efficiently
Add 2–3 inches of mulch to moderate soil temperature swings
Shade cool-season crops like lettuce and spinach to delay bolting
Raised beds and containers can be powerhouses—but only if you stay ahead of the heat.
Lawns: Tough, But Not Invincible
Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and tall fescue thrive in spring and fall. But when summer highs hang out above the mid-80s, even tough turf shows stress.
Heat-Stressed Lawn Signs:
Grass looks dull green or bluish
Footprints linger long after walking
Growth slows, blades feel dry or brittle
Keep Lawns Alive Through Heat:
Mow high—3–4 inches helps shade the soil
Use a mulching mower to keep moisture and nutrients in the lawn
Water deeply, aiming for 1–1.5 inches per week in 2–3 sessions
Sharpen mower blades to reduce tearing
Avoid fertilizing in peak heat
A lawn under stress doesn’t need rescuing—just steady, gentle care. With consistent watering and mowing, it’ll bounce back strong once cooler weather arrives.
Flower Beds: Fragile but Recoverable
Annuals and tender perennials often struggle most in summer heat. Blooms fade fast, leaves scorch, and plants may wilt even after watering.
Watch For:
Drooping leaves
Smaller or faded flowers
Brown leaf tips
Early flower drop
Flower Bed Survival Tips:
Mulch to keep roots cool and moist
Water at the base of plants to reduce disease and improve efficiency
Choose heat-tough favorites like zinnias, lantana, marigolds, and black-eyed Susans
Shade delicate flowers using nearby plants or lightweight covers
Deadhead often to keep blooms coming without over-stressing the plant
Container-grown flowers may need water once or twice a day during heatwaves—and they’ll appreciate a break from that blazing afternoon sun.
Resilience Through the Heat
You can’t change the weather, but you can outsmart it. With a few adjustments—like early watering, smart mulching, temporary shade, and timing your tasks—you can help your garden survive and thrive through the hottest stretch of the year. Plants are surprisingly resilient. With a little help, they’ll bounce back beautifully once the heat breaks.