Bindweed - Beauty or Pest?

(Convolvulus arvensis, origins from Eurasia)

Field Bindweed likes nooks and crannies and wraps around plants as it reaches upward on taller plants.  A perennial broadleaf with creeping and twining stems, it is considered a noxious weed and one of the hardest to control.

Often mistakenly called Creeping Jenny or wild morning glory, it reproduces from seed and creeping underground rhizomes (underground stems) that can reach deeper than 20 feet but 70% of its root mass is in the top 2 feet of soil. Flowers are a pretty pink to white with arrowhead shaped leaves. Unfortunately any time a root is cut, it creates more roots and then leaves and blooms. Field bindweed likes disturbed soils. If a field bindweed plant should appear: 1. Remove seedlings as soon as they emerge. 2. Remove plants before they flower. 3. Remove flowering plants before they set seed...and keep cultivating as new plants emerge!

Control methods:

Cultural- Growing bunch grass or legumes to help choke it out or other tall shade producing plants assists control.  Mechanical control is cultivation every three weeks for 2 years during the growing season. Clear plastic is recommended, known as soil sterilization or fabric weed barrier can help by keeping from sunlight.

Biological- The bindweed mite, Aceria malherbae, is a microscopic mite that feeds on field bindweed. This process is being tried but takes years to see results. 

Chemical- Fall is the best time of year to control it as it moves the herbicides into the roots. Some are: 2,4-D for lawns but for long term, systemic herbicides can be used such as dicamba and picloram, glyphosates are a couple that work better in fields and pastures. It is important to read and follow all precautions before applying any of these herbicides. But if you wait until fall, it has already gone to seed and spread all over. Treat it as soon as you see it.

Idaho Weed Awareness has an excellent list of all noxious weeds for Idaho - check it out along with Field Bindweed.

Grow a Tea Garden for Year-Round Tea

During the heat of summer, we dream of crisp fall evenings with a steaming mug of home-grown tea, made from the dried leaves and buds of some of the season’s most beautiful floral displays. With a little know-how and pre-planning, growing a tea garden can enable you to make your own blend of tea year-round. Here are some wonderful tea options and tips for growing them properly:

Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia): (Buds are used for tea.) Lavender is fairly simple to care for, can provide a beautiful addition to your landscape, and attract beneficial pollinators. English lavender is cold hard to Zone 5, can bloom twice in a single season, and is considered drought tolerant. Preferring full sun and alkaline soils, lavender needs to be pruned annually after the plant has been established. The plants have very few pests or disease problems. However, they can be susceptible to soil diseases such as Phytophthora, so it is important to water carefully and not create standing water around the plant. Harvest the flowers and buds for drying when they are one-third to fully open and hang them in a cool, airy, shaded room. To make a relaxing lavender tea, combine hot water with fresh or dried buds, then steep until you reach your desired flavor. For a bit of sweetness, add a few drops of honey.

Mint (Mentha sp.): (Leaves are used for tea.) There are several mint varieties to choose from, each providing a unique flavor to brewed tea. Spearmint makes a soothing tea, while peppermint makes a sweeter tea. A visit to a local nursery will likely present you with choices like apple mint, chocolate mint, and orange mint. A very hardy, prolific plant, mint can quickly take over surrounding garden and landscape areas. To keep this eager spreader under control, try growing it in containers or confining it to a bed with metal or plastic edging. Harvest the leaves and dry them in summer, then steep dried leaves for tea year-round. Iced mint tea can be very refreshing during hot months, and warm mint tea is soothing in fall and winter.

Calendula: (Petals are used for tea.) A member of the daisy family, these beautiful yellow and orange flowers add long-lasting color to any flower bed or container. Their frost tolerance, somewhat cold, hardy nature, and propensity to draw aphids away from other garden plants make them great companion plants for many of those well-loved vegetables growing nearby. Simply pour hot water over the dried flowers and let steep to your desired flavor intensity.

Lemon balm ((Melissa officinalis): (Leaves are used for tea.) Adding a lovely, gentle lemon flavor, lemon balm is an easy-to-grow perennial, that tolerates full sun to partial shade and produces delicate white, pale yellow, or pink flowers. Though, if you are interested in controlling this prolific plant, pruning to ensure that it does not set and drop seed is key. Combined with other dried ingredients, including oat straw, rose hip, orange peel, and lavender, a cup of lemon balm tea can lift the mood on a cloudy, rainy fall day.

Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile): (Buds are used for tea.) From June to August, the tiny, delicate daisies of chamomile are a wonderful perennial addition to any garden scape. Hardy to Zone 3, and loving light, dry soil, chamomile is fairly easy to grow. Two of the most common chamomiles used for tea are German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Fresh chamomile buds can be combined with boiling water, apple slices, and a bit of honey for a calming, warm hug on those crisp fall evenings.

For educational purposes only. This information has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration.

Goatheads Got You Down?

Puncturevine or goathead (Tribulus terrestris) is a very challenging weed that is also known as Caltrop, Tack Weed, Bull Head, Cat Head, and Mexican Sand Burr. As foreboding as these names sound, the reality is even more sinister because they are difficult to live with and challenging to kill. This is because goathead plants like to stay very low to the ground where they can escape the wrath of lawnmowers, weed-whackers, and bush-cutters, so they often get the opportunity to mature and form their terrible seed heads. What’s worse is that each plant can produce several hundred to several thousand stealthy, strong, and sharp caltrop-like burs that have the potential to seriously injure people, animals, and even thin-walled pneumatic tires (like bicycle tires). The good news (if there is any) is that they also produce small, yellow, bee-foraged flowers that serve as a subtle warning.

HOW DID IT GET THERE? 
It originated from southern Europe and northern Africa. Supposedly, it was (accidentally) imported into the United States along with livestock from the Mediterranean area. But how did it get into YOUR yard? The seeds themselves are designed for animals and people to carry them to their new homes. They attach to fur or feet and walk themselves into a new home.

WHERE DOES IT THRIVE?  
Goatheads love to take root along railways, roadsides, walkways, residential properties, cultivated fields, and other disturbed places. It thrives in hot, dry, sandy soils; but will also grow in most other soils too. The plants don’t generally survive freezing temperatures, but the seeds survive almost any condition.

HOW CAN YOU GET RID OF IT?
Long-term control of puncturevine can be achieved by reducing the number of seeds in the soil. By removing plants before they produce seeds (flowering) over several years, the plants will eventually go away. Burrs that have dropped after removal will need to be collected by sweeping the ground or patting the ground with a piece of carpet to collect the burrs. Be sure to also check places where shoes are stored and remove any burrs that may have stuck to the soles.

Puncturevine can be killed with chemicals. Always read the instructions carefully to ensure you are being safe, applying at times that won’t affect pollinators, and that you don’t accidentally kill neighboring plants.

You can also introduce your goathead plants to their natural predators: the Puncturevine Seed Weevil (Microlarinus Lareynii) and/or the  Puncture Vine Stem Weevil (Microlarinus Lypriformis). The larvae of these two species will bore into the seeds and destroy them.

WAIT… IS THERE ANYTHING GOOD ABOUT GOAT HEADS?  
Goatheads make a fantastic organic deterrent against bare-footed or bicycle-bound bandits. Just plant Puncturevine in the form of a natural barrier; or, if you happen to be on the run, simply toss a handful of goatheads in the suspected path of bandit travel and your problems should be solved in short order – unless, of course, you are dealing with boot-wearing bandits!

Best of luck keeping your head as you attempt to remove goatheads!

Stay sharp! Maintaining your lawn care equipment.

To keep your mower in tip-top running condition, have a competent service professional thoroughly inspect your mower at least once a year.

Inspection areas:
Sharpening and balancing the blade - A dull blade tears grass and can leave it prone to disease, and an unbalanced blade can cause your mower excess wear and tear.
Check the air filter - If you are using the mower in dry or dusty conditions, you will need to replace the air filter more often.

Check the spark plug - Always ensure that the spark plug is clean and gapped correctly.
Check the carburetor - and have it adjusted if necessary.
Check the oil - and have it changed if needed.
Check the wheels, bags, and
belts - and replace as needed. Consider blowing off mower after each use.

Your lawn mower is likely the most frequently used piece of outdoor power equipment that you own - here's a maintenance calendar that's handy to use. Proper maintenance is extremely important to maximizing efficiency, reducing emissions, preventing costly repairs and extending the life of your lawn mower. By keeping your mower in proper working order, you can help maintain a healthy environment, pocketbook and lawn.
For more information on lawn care, contact your local University of Idaho Extension office!

Mosquitoes? Consider Your Lawn Watering.

It’s warming up so we are all watering our lawns. With the warm weather and water, come those irritating and possibly disease infested mosquitoes.

What do mosquitoes have to do with yards? When you over water your lawn the earth beneath doesn’t dry out and creates a perfect mosquito habitat. There are certain species of mosquito that will lay eggs in the damp mud and the next time your water comes on; the water sits on top of the earth for a period of time that allows the mosquito eggs to hatch. On warm days it doesn’t take very long for a mosquito to go from egg, larvae, pupae to adult. Once the female adult mosquito hatches, it looks for a blood meal. Yep, you and your family!

Another problem is the water filling up buckets, flower pots, wheel barrows or other items left outside. This water then sits, heats up and then becomes stagnant. Female Culex species of mosquito love to lay their eggs in this water. This species can carry West Nile Virus and transmit it to you and your family with one bite.

You can help keep your family safe by making sure you are watering your yard properly, and that your sprinklers are only watering the things they should be and that they are not leaving puddles below the heads. 

Another thing to consider is a smart sprinkler controller. Many of these come with the ability to track the weather and skip a watering if it isn't needed. It can save water, money, and help avoid standing water.

There are many published articles on the web about how to water your type of grass and how much water is enough...and the kind of pests that can flourish in unhealthy turf. A great publication for Idaho residents to refer to for guidance is The Pacific Northwest Handbook. 

The “Rule of thumb” that is widely used is: water as deeply and as infrequently as possible. This stimulates root growth resulting in healthy drought tolerant and pest resistant turf (like mosquitoes)! A healthy root system produces vigorous turf: rooting depth is determined primarily by genetics and soil condition, not irrigation!

Growing Blueberries in Idaho? Yes You Can!

Beautiful blueberries ready to pick

Craving fresh blueberries? It is possible to grow them here in Idaho. Here's how:

• Blueberries are compact flowering bushes that bear round bluish fruit.
• They require full sun and only like moist acidic soil. Soils in Southwestern Idaho are commonly alkaline, so you must  use an acidic planting mix. 
• They can be planted in a landscape with amended soil or also successfully grown in a container. 
• This University of Idaho link has an easy to follow description of planting needs. 

Pruning, Maintenance and Fertilizer

Blueberries require little pruning; however, maintenance is required in terms of fertilization and sulfur. You’ll need to be patient.  
For the first year you’ll need to strip off all the blossoms so the plant can use its energy to grow strong healthy canes for increased production. 

If planting in a container, you’ll need to monitor water closely because pots dry out quickly. Blueberries like moist well drained soil but not soggy conditions.  
Mulching will help keep the soil moist and limit the growth of weeds.  
After the first 2 springs, you’ll want to prune off older canes to encourage new growth and fertilize with an alkalizing fertilizer (21-0-0)

Which variety to choose?
There are many recommended cultivars which will grow in Idaho. Colorado State has

an excellent description of every one. Depending on bloom time, hardiness and height,

make your choice from two different cultivars to insure pollination. Whether you chose

to grow a Northern Highbush, Southern Highbush, Rabbiteye, Lowbush or Half-High,

your plant will produce more and larger berries when cross pollinated.

There is still time to get your blueberry plants from your favorite local nursery

Quick tips and things you'll need:

Acid Loving Potting Mix

Soil Sulfur

Ammonium Sulfate 

Acid Plant Fertilizer

Bird Netting (the birds like blueberries as much as humans)

Plant in full sun

Protect with bird netting
Choose two different cultivars for cross pollination
Replace native Idaho soil with acid loving planting mix
Fertilize with 21-0-0
Fertilize with soil sulfur
Remove blossoms 1st year and additional canes 1st two springs

BlueBerry Syrup Recipe

2 cups fresh blueberries                            

¼ cup raw stevia or equivalent                                  

½ cup water                                             

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon creme de cassis (optional)

Place Blueberries in a sauce pan on the stove.  Mix water and cornstarch together until dissolved add to blueberries.  Cook over medium heat until berries start to pop.  Use the back of a spoon to mash the berries and boil 1 minute.  Add the stevia, lemon juice and Crème de Cassis.  Store unused portion in refrigerator for up to about a week.  This sauce can also be added to plain yogurt or ice cream. 

Love My Roses, But Not Rose Diseases!

Do you love your roses, but hate seeing the diseases that can hurt them? I love making flower arrangements for myself and my friends throughout the summer and fall. I love all the different colors and varieties. But I hate diseases that threaten my lovely rose bushes! I hope the following information about Idaho’s 3 most common fungal rose diseases will help you to better understand how to keep your roses healthy. 

Rust

The symptoms of this fungal disease are small orange blisters on the underside of leaves. A small amount will not cause a lot of damage to the rose, but the spores can blow to other roses and infect those roses. This disease can survive the winter, so it's best to control it so it doesn't carry from one year to the next.

Black Spot
This fungal disease fungus looks like spots on the surface of the leaves and causes the leaves to drop off early. It can survive the winter and in the spring the rain will splash on to the rest of the plant and spread it. It is recommended to prune off the disease for winter, allowing plenty of air flow between the major branches. Additionally, water the bottom of the plant to avoid getting water on the leaves.

Powdery Mildew
This fungus looks like grey and white powder. It will show up anywhere on the plant. This does not need water to spread and can survive the summer. Remove any infected leaves that you see on the plant and prune for winter. Water to avoid leaves, as with Black Spot. Once into the summer weather you can give your rose a wash with the hose to remove mildew and aphids. 

The following fungicides and natural pesticides can be helpful in keeping your rose bushes healthy:

Potassium bicarbonate is a chemical relative of baking soda. We also see it as antacid in over-the-counter medications.  It will control Black Spot and Powdery Mildew.  A few of the names you can find it under in the garden center are: Bi-Carb Old Fashioned Fungicide, Kaligreen, and Bonide Remedy. 

Bacillus subtilis is a microbial pesticide. It is a bacteria found in air, water and soil.  According to the product label, it is effective in controlling all three important rose diseases. It is sold as “Serenade Garden Disease Control”.

Neem Oil is a naturally-occurring pesticide found in seeds from the neem tree. It kills a variety of insects, including aphids.

Along with the tips above, it is important to keep the ground area under roses clean, of leaves, rose buds, and debris. I hope this helps you to keep your roses looking beautiful and healthy all season!

Pictured above:
My 5 year old rose bush