Voles, friend or nuisance?

Voles are small rodents that measure 4-8 inches long and range in color from brown to gray.  In Alaska we had northern red-backed voles which are also found in Canada, Scandinavia, and northern Russia. They are sometimes referred to as Meadow Mice and their Latin name is Microtus pennsylvanicus.  “Microtus” translates to “small ear”.  They are pudgy with blunt faces, small eyes and ears, short legs and a short tail.  Vole numbers fluctuate from year to year and their populations can increase rapidly.  They can breed anytime of the year, but they typically breed in the Spring.  They are extremely prolific.  Female voles mature in 35 to 40 days, have 5 to 10 litters a year with 3 to 6 young per litter.

If you have turf, fruit trees, a home garden, grow crops commercially, and generally care about your landscape, you should be alert for the presence of voles.  They are herbivorous and feed on grasses, bulbs, tubers, tree bark, and tree roots.  They are active year-round, day and night.  A sure sign of voles “occupying an area” is their runways that connect numerous shallow borrows.  They don’t like to be seen and make their nest underground in dense vegetation and grasses and under snow in the winter.

It is best to mitigate vole population by use of a number of “management methods”.  One of the easiest ways to do this is to make your area less inviting.  You can do this by removing weeds, heavy mulch and dense vegetative cover.  This removes food sources, cover from predators, and makes it more challenging for them to connect trails.  This is generally referred to as “habitat modification”.  

You can also try fencing areas and adding approximately 12” of small mesh size (1/4” or smaller) to the bottom of the fencing  However, you would also need to bury the fence below the ground for 6-10” as voles tunnel.  

Protect young trees from girdling (removing the bark near the base) by using cylinders of metal, plastic, or hardware cloth and surrounding the trunk.  However, you also need to allow for tree growth and, again, remember to bury the cylinder below ground.  

If the voles have not “totally taken over the area” trapping can be effective.  A simple mouse trap baited with peanut butter has been successful.  Do not handle a caught vole w/o gloves as they do carry infectious pathogens and/or parasites.  Also, be sure to keep small children and pets out of the areas where you have traps set.

Finally, if you have a large area to eradicate and trapping will not be effective, there are two toxicants, zinc phosphide and anti-coagulants that are considered lethal control.  Please note, these are not recommended for residential areas.

Additionally, zinc phosphide is toxic to ground-feeding birds. Read labels carefully and contact your County Extension Office for further assistance!

Bottom line, voles are generally pest.  However, ask a predator such as a coyote, fox, snake, owl or hawk and they would say they are beneficial! 

Succulent Gardens - Indoors and Out!

What is it about succulents?  They are easy to grow indoors and outdoors, drought resistant, and there are so many varieties!

Plan your garden before you go shopping.  There are many online resources, videos, and book resources to help you get started. Essential Succulents: The Beginner's Guide by Ken Self is a great read!

Design options are unlimited.  Think about color, size and scale, shape, texture, and context.  There are wreaths, containers, and even wall gardens.  Look for plants with good color and shape, no dead leaves, and free of insects.  Zone 6 succulents include, among others, Hardy Ice Plant, Pig’s Ear, Cape Blanco Stonecrop, and Houseleek.  Others can be planted or arranged in pots in your design and then moved indoors in the colder months.  When moving them indoors, avoid extreme changes in temperature.

Now DIY planting can begin.  Be gentle because the roots are fragile, and don’t

plant them too deep.   Use soil that drains well.  Outdoors you may need to add succulent soil, pumice, vermiculite or sand to your existing soil.  Keep watering to a minimum, once per week or less, to avoid root rot. Here's a few more tips and a reference sheet:

• Over-watered plants start to droop and indentations are left in the leaves when touched. 
• Succulents like the sun, but some can get sunburned so plan for those plants too. 
• Maintenance includes cleaning up the dead leaves, watching for bugs, and pulling weeds. 
• Fertilization can be done on a monthly basis during the growing period.  Follow the label instructions. 
• Propagation is done with a stem cutting and best done in the spring after the dormant period. 

Enjoy growing the many 

varieties of succulents both

indoors and outdoors.

The creativity and fun are endless!

Edible Flowers and Herbs

Drying Herbs

Edible flowers and herbs are as old as time.They have been used for enhancing flavor and for garnishing foods as long as ancient cultures have been cooking.

Ten Rules of Edible Flowers  Sherry Rindels, Department of Horticulture, Iowa State University writes about the the do's and don'ts  of culinary usage for edible flowers.

A few words of caution: Know your plants before you eat: Edible Flowers - 7.237 - Extension 

It is important that the proper identification of edible flowers and herbs be used. Not all flowers are edible. Some flowers and herbs are poisonous and should not be eaten. Many plants have similar common names which may cause added confusion when choosing flowers and herbs for cooking.  Always use the scientific name when choosing a flower or herb.

 

Herb Garden

 Herbs for Idaho Gardens » Idaho Landscapes and Gardens

Common herbs: basil, dill, cilantro, chives, thyme, sage
Uncommon herbs: savory, comfrey, borage 

Edible Flowers » Idaho Landscapes and Gardens  

Nasturtium

Whether you are an extraordinary cook, or a novice, enhancing your everyday cooking with edible flowers and herbs can add new flavors and enjoyment to your meals. 

Bon Appetit!

Peach Leaf Curl

I love peaches, do you love peaches? My mother, her mother and my daughter and I have all delighted in peaches and nectarines until I moved to a different climate and Peach Leaf Curl turned up on my trees. Peach leaf curl is a pathogenic fungi affecting peaches and nectarines. It is easy to identify through leaf discoloration and malformation of leaves.  It can also affect branches if not cared for and eliminated early in the life of the tree. Eventually trees will die if trees are not cared for. The goods news… Peach Leaf Curl can be treated. The Latin name of the disease is Taphrina deformans.

To Identify Peach Leaf Curl aka Taphrina deformans:

Look for puckering, and actual curling in the leaf. Leaves will have multiple hues of pink, plum, red and yellow discoloration. One will also look for thickening of leaves as leaves begin to open in spring, generally the first 2 to 3 weeks. If a tree is affected you will eventually see the fungus as the first leaves are completely formed in the spring.  Eventually leaves will turn grey and brown and either remain or fall from the tree.  Be sure to pick up and discard all affected leaves and branches, do not compost. 

How Peach Leaf Curl infects and is transmitted: The fungus overwinters on the buds and twigs of the host tree. Germination of the spores begins in spring and is dependent on rainfall. Frequent periods of rain in spring, as peach and nectarine buds are opening will lead to the infection as the fungus is already present. When rain does not occur little to no infection will occur. Spring temperatures of 40 to 65 F and .5 inches of rain fall or more are the perfect combination for Peach Leaf Curl fungus to be formed and carried to other trees by wind. The infection only occurs on new leaf and bud production. If left untreated new spores will remain on the buds and spread to twigs and branches. The cycle will repeat itself the following spring.  

How to Manage Peach Leaf Curl:

You will want to avoid excessive fertilizer and be sure to water trees correctly throughout each season.  If there is a drought be sure to water your trees to be sure they do not get stressed.  Be sure not to over water if you have excessive rainfall. One will want to water approximately 2 to 3 times per week depending on the rain and temperate in order to penetrate the soil down to 10 inches. Fungicides are available to treat Peach Leaf Curl however, timing is very important. When the tree is dormant in late fall or early spring before buds swell is the time to apply.  Be sure to read the label completely prior to any application. The fungicide you purchase should be labeled for use on edible fruit. Peach leaf curl can be prevented by purchasing resistant varieties.

There you have it, treat your trees and enjoy your peaches.

Native Landscaping in Idaho

There are so many beautiful plants that are native to Idaho that can be used to landscape around your home. These plants include many different colors, shapes, heights and peak seasons for blooming! By using native plants, you can help keep a beautiful landscape almost year-round with little effort on your part. Let the Idaho seasons begin! 

Reasons for having native landscape plants include; the short-seasons here in Idaho, native plants have adapted to our regions, native plants have lower water use, and they take less labor and maintenance. Who wouldn’t want to have a native landscape with all of those amazing perks? 

Information on landscaping with native plants can be found at University of Idaho’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences website.

Picking your favorite native plants may be the hardest part of changing your landscape to a native landscape as there are so many beautiful options to choose from. 

Check out a list of native plants at the University of Idaho’s website and this article on Landscaping with Native Plants of the Intermountain Region.

When using native plants to create your landscape you are also helping provide wildlife habitat, improving your soils, and helping your local pollinators. You will reduce your water use as these plants were made to survive Idaho. You will create a beautiful scenery for yourself, a place for pollinators to roam, and a home for wildlife.

Information on how your native landscape is helping provide wildlife with habitat visit Washington State University’s website.

Need more reasons to choose to plant a native garden? Check out this video from Michigan State University and listens to Laurie Kaufman explain her reasons for switching from a traditional landscape to a native garden. 

Vertical Gardening with Pallets

Have you always wanted a garden but didn’t think you had enough outdoor space? How would you like to grow your own ‘salad wall’? Not everyone has access to large garden spaces and cities are becoming more crowded and dependent on apartment living. By 2050, almost 80% of the earth's population will be living in urban areas.

Vertical pallet gardens or “green walls” are an innovative solution that has become quite popular! They are easy to create and very sustainable. Imagine being able to create a decorative succulent wall near your front door, or being able to have fresh vegetables right on your balcony! Vertical gardens help to reduce the carbon footprint by filtering pollutants and carbon dioxide out of the air, which improves our air quality.







Not only is pallet gardening fun and easy, below are a few benefits:

• use your space more efficiently
• conserve water
• decrease insects and disease
• reduce the need to weed
• eliminate back pain by decreasing bending which is easier on your back, knees, and hips

Wood pallets are a perfect choice for your green wall. You can often find them for very little money, or even for free! You can choose to lean or hang your pallet on a wall or fence, or make a stand to hold it. See this video for a variety of pallet gardening examples.




When selecting plants for your vertical garden, choose plants with a shallow root system: lettuce, tomatoes, strawberries, cucumbers, arugula, spinach, chard, dwarf peas, parsley, bush beans, and kale. Herbs like rosemary, thyme, and basil are also perfect for pallet gardening as well.


It is important to know the right type of pallet to use. If you decide to grow food plants, use a pallet that is stamped “HT,” which means heat treated. This type of pallet does not have chemicals that can leach out into your garden. If recycling a used pallet, kill any bacteria that may be lurking inside by scrubbing down the wood with a bleach solution and then soapy water and let it dry before planting.




How to Build a Pallet Garden: See this video for a demonstration.




If you choose to line all 4 sides of the pallet with landscape fabric and cut holes in front for your plant, complete steps 1-3 first. If you choose not to, skip to step 4.

1. Lay your pallet down horizontally, and use a staple gun to adhere landscape fabric to the pallet.
2. Once you have 3 sides done, fill the pallet with potting soil. Press potting soil down firmly. 
3. Staple the last landscape fabric to the front of the pallet.
4. Transfer your plants while the pallet is still lying flat. It is a good idea to leave the pallet laying horizontally for 1-2 weeks to allow the young plants to take root. 
5. When watering, start at the top and water each section a little less because the water will seep downward to the bottom of the pallet. Water frequently as plants will dry out quickly. 
6. Fertilize your plants, as recommended specific to your plants, to provide them the nutrients they need to grow.


I WANT A FRUIT TREE. NOW WHAT?

Selecting fruit trees to grow in your yard or orchard depends on several factors:  available space, height and width restrictions, soil type, exposure to good light and air circulation, preferred type of fruit, type of root-stock, and much more. 

The first step is to plan. 

·         The following factors should be considered as you plan: 

• Climate zone,
• Soil type and pH,
• Location and surrounding landscaping,
  
• Drainage,
• Overhead restrictions (power lines, other trees, shading),
• Width restrictions (fences, buildings, property lines),
• Underground restrictions (sewer/power/telephone lines, septic tanks or drain fields, layers of poor soil, wells),
• Irrigation and fertilizing,
• Time needed for tree care,
• Pruning,
• Harvesting,
• Spraying.

Selection of the trees is one of the most important steps. 

There are several great resources to help you select a tree for your yard.
The Pacific Northwest Handbooks publication EC 819, Growing Tree Fruits and Nuts in the Home Orchard
The Treasure Valley is Area II in this publication.

Other factors to consider are: 

•          Choose a reliable nursery with appropriate stock selected for this area,
•          Choice of fruit,
•          Varieties of chosen fruit that grow best in this region, 
•          Dwarf or semi-dwarf root stock,
•          Bare root, ball and burlap (B&B), or containerized stock,
•         Need of a pollinator or self-pollinator,
•          Blooming and harvest times,
•          Pests – insects, birds, or disease resistant.

To maintain a strong tree or orchard, time must be given towards tree health.   There are numerous publications from Extension Services through the University of Idaho, Washington State University, and Oregon State University to assist you with your specific trees.

https://youtu.be/_YqQPtsC-eA

The following are important items to consider toward maintaining a vigorous home fruit tree:

•          Training of tree branches,
•         Thinning and pruning,
•          Irrigation needs,
•          Fertilization needs,
•          Insect and disease control,
•          Weed 
•          Rodent control.

Click for more fruit tree information 

This helpful publication below is specific to the Treasure Valley. It can be obtained free of charge from the University of Idaho Extension Services offices in Canyon County (208) 459-6003.

In summary, a backyard fruit tree or orchard is a wonderful addition to your landscaping.  Be sure to choose trees that are compatible to your region, soil, and property.  With the proper selection, you can enjoy fruit from your backyard trees for many years to come.